Tag Archive for: Himalayas

From the top of the world!

Members of our team on the summit!

It comes with great pleasure to share that word came in on the morning of May 23rd local time that the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team had topped out at the highest place on Earth! Albeit a bit blustery as the team left the South Col, the team was rewarded with excellent views as they climbed to the summit. After celebrating their achievement, snapping some photographs, and taking in the moment, the team started their descent and have safely made it back to Camp 4 on the South Col. Some of the team will continue their descent soon. Others have their eyes set on Lhotse, the fourth highest peak on the planet! A huge congratulations goes out to the entire team — we’re so proud! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the summit of Mount Everest:

Hey! We’re up here at the summit of Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft)! Beautiful day, 360 degree views as far as the eye can see. It was a windy one, pretty blustery coming out of high camp (7900m/25,919ft) this morning. A lot of climbers turned back, but we kept going. We got lucky, so really proud of our team. Everyone did great today! Feeling blessed to be up here at the top of Everest – top of the world. Summit #15 for me and looking forward to a safe descent. We’ll check in soon!

Climbing up the Mount Everest's Southwest Ridge to the summit.

Climbing up Mount Everest’s Southwest Ridge to the summit.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Lhotse team reaches the summit!

Looking out over the Western Cwm near the summit of Lhotse.

We’re thrilled to relay the message just received from the Madison Mountaineering Lhotse team! Setting off from their high camp with an alpine start, the team climbed through the early morning hours before stepping foot onto the summit of the world’s fourth-highest peak! The summit offered magnificent views of Everest, Makalu, Nuptse, and the other surrounding Himalaya. Now safely back in Camp 2, the team recounts what was an unforgettable day and look forward to continuing their descent to Everest Base Camp tomorrow. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch via satellite phone from the Western Cwm:

This morning we summited Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) in excellent weather! Our team left Lhotse Camp 4 (7,700m / 25,260′) after midnight and stood on the summit in calm conditions with clear skies offering excellent views of the spectacular terrain around us. Then we descended here to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). Tomorrow we plan to descend back to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). Our climbers who summited Lhotse this morning had both previously climbed Everest (8848m/29,032ft). Our Everest + Lhotse combo climbers will make their Lhotse summit bid in the coming days, following their summit attempt on Everest. One of today’s summiteers, Aga Olkowicz, also successfully climbed Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) with us just 11 days ago. All is well here in Camp 2. We’ll be in touch tomorrow with more details!

# Name Country
1 Aga Olkowicz Poland
2 Andras Kassik Estonia
3 Lhakpa Wongchhu Sherpa Nepal
4 Sumbah Sherpa Nepal
5 Terray Sylvester United States of America

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Starting up soon!

Looking up the route from Camp 4 on the South Col.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest expedition team is excited and ready to set off for the summit! The team rested today and made their final preparations before beginning their summit push in just a few hours time. Meanwhile, our Lhotse expedition team stepped onto the summit around 8:00 AM local time, reaching the fourth-highest peak on Earth, and a huge accomplishment! We’re so proud of everyone on the team and send our best wishes for a safe and smooth summit tomorrow on the world’s highest peak. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this pre-summit push dispatch from Camp 4:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in, it’s May 22nd, 4:00 PM.

Our team got up to the South Col, Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) yesterday evening, settled in, had a good nights rest, and today we’re making final preparations to go for the summit tonight, probably leaving around midnight or 1:00 AM!

This morning, our Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team, led by Terray Sylvester made the summit of Lhotse! They reported good conditions. They topped out around 8:00 AM. Congratulations to Terray, Andras, Aga, Lakpang Chu [sp?], and Sumba Sherpa [sp?]. Great job! We’re very proud of them. They topped out on Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) earlier, and now Lhotse, and they’ll be heading down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft).

We’re getting ready to go for the Everest (8848m/29,032ft) summit tonight! Fingers crossed for good weather. The team’s doing great up here! Wish us luck as we set off to climb the highest mountain in the world. Check in soon!

Looking out towards Makalu from the South Col.

Looking out towards Makalu from the South Col.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Settled in on the South Col

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team braved blustery conditions today on their move from Camp 3 to Camp 4, where they are now settled in on the South Col, nestled between Mount Everest and Lhotse. Camp 4 serves as the highest camp on the mountain and is where the team will launch their summit push from. The team plans to rest tomorrow before getting an alpine start the next day, targeting the top of the world on May 23rd! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch via satellite phone from Camp 4 on Mount Everest:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) climbing team.

Today is May 21st and today we climbed from Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on Mount Everest at the South Col. Everyone did great! We left Camp 3 at about 6:00 AM and went up the Lhotse Face. There were some blustery conditions, some wind, some snow, but the team did great. We made it in here to the South Col here at Camp 4 this afternoon, set up our tents, got moved into our camp, and are getting ready for dinner. The plan is to rest tomorrow, May 22nd, and then leave at about midnight or 1:00 AM and go for the summit, hopefully reaching the top early around sunrise on May 23rd.

So, everyone’s doing well up here! We’re in good spirits and fingers crossed for (garbled)…

Everyone’s doing great! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Lhotse summit attempt coming up!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Lhotse expedition team is in position to go for the summit! Now tucked into Lhotse Camp 4, the team had perfect climbing conditions today as they parted ways with our Everest team who were headed to the South Col. In just a few hours time, alarms are set to go off and the team will begin their push to the summit of the fourth-highest peak on the planet! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Lhotse:

Hello from Lhotse Camp 4 at 7,700m. We climbed here this morning from Everest / Lhotse Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) with the main Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team. Route conditions were ideal, with perfect styrofoam snow the whole way except on the obligatory glacier ice bulges. Now we’ve settled into our tents and we’re resting in preparation for our final push to the summit of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), the fourth highest peak. We’re planning to start climbing toward the summit a few hours before dawn tomorrow morning. All is well here. We’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Climbing to Camp 3

Approaching the bergschrund at the base of the Lhotse Face.

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest–Lhotse expedition team climbed from Camp 2 to Camp 3 today, where they’re now tucked into their tents for the night after enjoying a warm meal and epic views over the Western Cwm. The team emerged from their tents in Camp 2 earlier in the day, scarfed down some breakfast, and clipped into the fixed lines that show the way up the Lhotse Face to their next camp. Despite some windy conditions, the team did excellent, moving strongly up the route, before the winds subsided and we could enjoy a nice evening in our camp for the night. Tomorrow, we move up higher! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 3:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team – today is Tuesday, May 20th and we are now in Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), just over 7,000 meters, just over 23,000 feet.

We left Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) earlier this morning, 6:00 AM. (We) set out in blustery conditions, it was blowing snow and it looked pretty windy up high on Everest and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft). We heard a lot of climbers turned back from their summit bids today. But by the time we got up to Camp 3 by mid-day, the winds calmed down, actually pretty nice day up here!

So, everyone’s doing well and we’ve been enjoying the views up here from Camp 3 looking out over the Western Cwm, Camp 2, and beyond. (We’re) looking forward to climbing up to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) tomorrow at the South Col!

So, all is well here in Camp 3. We’ll check in soon!

 

Looking out tent doors from Camp 3 over the Western Cwm.

Looking out tent doors from Camp 3 over the Western Cwm.

Climbing from Camp 2 to Camp 3 today.

Climbing from Camp 2 to Camp 3 today.

Looking up at the summit of Mount Everest.

Looking up at the summit of Mount Everest.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Tucked in at Camp 2

Climbing through the icefall in the early morning hours of May 17.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest–Lhotse expedition team climbed through the Khumbu Icefall in the early morning hours of May 17 on their way to Camp 2, marking the start of their summit rotation. With no crowds and good conditions, the team moved swiftly through the complicated terrain of the icefall and reached Camp 2 in good time. Now, the team plans to take a rest day before moving up to higher camps! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition, we are up here at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft).

We had a great climb from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) up through the Khumbu Icefall early this morning, we left at 1:00 AM and got up to Camp 2 about mid-day. It wasn’t crowded at all, good conditions, nice and cool for a good part of the day, then the sun came out in the afternoon.

But the team’s all settled in here at Camp 2. We’re having dinner and we’re excited for our rest day tomorrow! Beautiful conditions up here on Everest! Fingers crossed we’ll get to move up in a couple days time to push higher to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on our summit rotation.

All is well! We’ll check in soon.

Headlamps piercing the darkness and illuminating the route ahead.

Headlamps piercing the darkness and illuminating the route ahead.

Starting up through the Khumbu Icefall!

Starting up through the Khumbu Icefall!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit rotation about to start!

The team together during the first rotation on Mount Everest.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team are about to begin their summit rotation! Under the cover of darkness, the team will emerge from their base camp tents, strap on their crampons, dawn their packs, and set out for higher places. They’ll first climb through the Khumbu Icefall and up to Camp 2, before taking a rest day and then moving higher up the mountain. Let’s do this! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team.

We are heading out early this morning on May 17th from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) to climb up to Camp 2, starting off on our summit rotation! Our plan is to head up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), take a rest day, and then if all is looking good, we’ll head up the Lhotse Face towards Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft), and eventually the summit.

The team’s doing well, everyone’s feeling healthy and strong, very excited, all packed up and prepared, and ready to go! So, we’re looking forward to what lies ahead and we’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Prepping for the summit rotation!

The team together on an acclimatization hike above Everest Base Camp with Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse behind.

The Madison Mountaineering team is hard at work getting ready for their push to the summit! They are planning to set off from Everest Base Camp in a few days time, heading for higher camps and with their sights set on the top of the world. The team is dialing everything in now, from their oxygen systems to their climbing kits. It won’t be long until they are on their way! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team – today is Thursday, May 15, we’re in Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft).

All of our members have come back from their rest down valley in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) and beyond. Everyone’s doing great here in base camp! We went for an acclimatization hike today up to Pumori Base Camp and had wonderful views looking back over at Everest, Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft). So, we’re just going through all of our oxygen systems now and plan for the next rotation while we press for the summit! We’re planning to leave in a couple of days and head up, maybe target around the 22nd of May.

So, all is well here in base camp! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Back in base camp after the summit!

The team on the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team has safely returned to their base camp after topping out on the world’s fifth-highest peak! Just in time for dinner, the team descended into their camp, concluding another chapter of this challenging expedition. The team climbed under the moon and stars from Camp 3, gaining Makalu’s summit ridge as the sunrise began to light-up the surrounding peaks – a welcome sight after climbing in the dark for so long! With Alex in our hearts, our team stepped onto the summit and embraced, taking in the moment as this dream was realized before turning back and heading down. We’re so proud of this team! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition – today is May the 12th. It’s a beautiful morning here in base camp, sunny and warm, and we are relaxing after our successful summit yesterday morning! We stood on top of the fifth-highest peak on the planet yesterday, about 6:00 AM.

It was a great summit day! We left Camp 3 at about 9:30 PM on May 10th, climbed through the night under a mostly full moon and arrived on Makalu’s summit ridge just before sunrise, which meant we got to watch as the morning sun illuminated the Kangshung Face of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), right next door. We could see headlamps of climbers way up on Everest on the southeast ridge, just below the summit. So yeah, it was a really great summit day and then we descended all the way back down to base camp yesterday evening and arrived in time for dinner at our normal time, 6:00.

It was a great climb and I think the best possible way to wrap up what has been a really difficult time here at Makalu for the whole Madison Mountaineering team after our teammate and friend, Alex Pancoe passed away so suddenly at Camp 2 during our acclimatization rotation. That event just left us all reeling, but we talked it over and it was clear to us that Alex brought, he brought so much stoke to the mountains. He loved being here so much and we were sure that he would have wanted us to keep climbing. So, on the 8th, we realized that we had just enough time to get to the summit in good weather before jet stream winds returned to the top of the mountain, so we went for it.

We will spend the rest of today packing up, wrapping up the expedition and then we are going to start making our way back down to lower elevations! We’ll be in touch.

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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