2024 Everest expedition dispatches

Lobuche Summits!

Lobuche East summit photo!

It comes with great excitement to share that the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team has completed their first rotation with 100 percent of the team reaching the summit of Lobuche East! The team has returned to base camp, greeted by additional members who have joined the expedition. All together, we look forward to a second Puja ceremony and our second rotation, this time through the Khumbu Icefall. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition.

Today our team returned from a successful climb of Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) for training and acclimatization. 100 percent success on the peak, beautiful views, and everyone back safely. A few members of our team have been here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) with me training the last few days, practicing fixed lines, and tomorrow we’re going to have a Puja ceremony, our second one now that everyone is here together to ask the mountain for safe passage. And then, we’re planning our first rotation up to Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft), 2 (6500m/21,325ft), and 3 (7230m/23,720ft) shortly.

Everyone’s doing great, it’s been beautiful weather here at Everest Base Camp, and our Sherpa team has been working hard up on the route to Camp 1 and Camp 2 carrying loads. So, all is well here at Mount Everest and we’ll check in soon!

The Madison Mountaineering team ascending fixed lines toward the summit of Lobuche East!

The Madison Mountaineering team ascending fixed lines toward the summit of Lobuche East!

Everest Base Camp sitting below Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp sitting below Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Sunset views from Everest Base Camp (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Sunset views from Everest Base Camp (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Lobuche East climb starting soon!

The team during an acclimatization hike on Kala Patthar!

The climbing is about to begin! Our 2024 Himalayan expedition teams have conducted their Puja ceremony, done technical training in the Khumbu Icefall, and are ready for their first rotation. Their first rotation will take place on Lobuche East, another peak near base camp which has less objective hazard than the Khumbu Icefall. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition team. Today, our Everest main team is down at Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) and leaving in a few hours for the summit of Lobuche East! (They’re) going for the summit early morning, hopefully at sunrise, and then will be back at base camp (6119m/20,075ft) in a couple of days.

Meanwhile, a couple of our climbers were out training in the Khumbu Icefall today practicing ropes and technical climbing with Aang Phurba and myself. Terray and Nelly are back from Annapurna (8091m/26,545ft) doing their climbing and cleanup project. It was a very successful project! Now they’ve just arrived to Everest Base Camp, settling in, and getting ready for Lhotse!

So, all is well here in the Khumbu Valley and on Mount Everest! Our Sherpa team has been carrying loads up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), the weather has been great, and we are excited to continue with the expedition and head up the icefall here in a few days time! We’ll check in soon.

Scene from the team's Puja Ceremony - an essential piece of our Mount Everest expeditions. (Photo by Courtenay Roche)

Scene from the team’s Puja Ceremony – an essential piece of our Mount Everest expeditions. (Photo by Courtenay Roche)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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More beautiful weather in the Khumbu!

The team during an acclimatization hike on a spectacular day in the Himalaya!

The Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams are nearing base camp as they continue to move further up the Khumbu Valley. The weather was spectacular for their acclimatization hike above Pheriche, giving them great views of the high peaks above them and the valley below. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) climbing team and trekking team.

Today is April 20th and we are heading up to Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) after a couple of good nights here in Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft). We did an acclimatization hike up the hill, magnificent views all around and the team is doing great! Beautiful weather here today, clear skies, and looking forward to heading up the hill, getting to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) in a few days time.

Clear, blue skies in the Himalaya!

Clear, blue skies in the Himalaya!

Next stop: Lobuche!

Next stop: Lobuche!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Blessings in Pangboche

At our blessing today in Pangboche!

After spending a day in Namche Bazaar acclimatizing, the Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams hit the trail again today towards Pheriche. The team made a stop at the Pangboche Monastery where they received blessings before continuing toward their next destination. Situated below Ama Dablam, the views here are magnificent and the team looks forward to hopefully having more Himalayan views tomorrow during an acclimatization hike. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hey! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) climbing and trekking team. Today we made it to Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft). We had an easy walk up the valley after a wonderful blessing this morning in Pangboche Monastery (3985m/13,074ft)!

The team’s looking good! Everyone’s very strong and healthy, and we’re very excited for our acclimatization hike tomorrow. Hopefully, we’ll get some great views of some of the 8,000-meter peaks surrounding us!

All is well here in the Khumbu Valley of Nepal and we’ll check in soon!

All smiles while trekking up the Khumbu Valley.

All smiles while trekking up the Khumbu Valley.

Trekking up the Khumbu Valley in the fog.

Trekking up the Khumbu Valley in the fog.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Arrived in Namche!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams have arrived in the exciting town of Namche Bazaar! Namche serves as the main hub in the Khumbu region where climbers and trekkers from around the world can enjoy the comforts of comfortable lodges, cafes, bakeries, restaurants, and more! The team had a spectacular day trekking along the Dudh Koshi River, crossing multiple suspension bridges along the way high above the river below. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Namche Bazaar:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition! Today is April 15, Monday, and today we arrived in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft)! We trekked up the beautiful Khumbu Valley along the river, across some suspension bridges, and made our way into Namche this afternoon. (We) had a wonderful, restful afternoon, got hot showers, had a nice dinner, and now we’re off to bed. So, we’re looking forward to spending another night here, and fun hike tomorrow up to the Everest View Hotel, and continuing on our way!

Everyone’s doing well, we’re happy to be here, and we’ll check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Hello, from the Khumbu Valley!

The team making their way up the beautiful Khumbu Valley!

Hello, from the Khumbu Valley! The spring, 2024 Himalayan season is underway and our team has begun their trek towards Everest Base Camp. After traveling from around the world and arriving in Kathmandu, the team settled into their hotel rooms before conducting a gear check, orientation, and enjoying a nice welcome dinner as a team! The following morning after a big breakfast at the Yak and Yeti hotel, our team gathered on the helicopter pad and awaited their lift to Lukla – the starting point for where we’ll begin the trek to Everest Base Camp. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Phakding:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition team! Today is April 14, Sunday, and today we flew from Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) by helicopter to start the trek. We trekked to the first village, Phakding (2610m/8,562ft), where we had an afternoon lunch and dinner. We had beautiful views today – so nice to be up in the Khumbu Valley where the air is fresh, the views are magnificent, and the people are wonderful.

So, we’re excited to be in the mountains heading uphill towards Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) and beyond. Everyone’s doing well and we’ll check in soon tomorrow from Namche (3440m/11,290ft)!

Team photo outside of our team hotel, the Yak and Yeti!

Team photo outside of our team hotel, the Yak and Yeti!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Cleaning up Base Camp!

Efforts from phase 1 of the Mountain Cleanup Project last fall (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering mountain cleanup project expedition team kept themselves busy in base camp today, cleaning up much of the trash in and around base camp! Of the cleanup efforts so far on Lobuche East, Ama Dablam, and Mera Peak, today’s effort amounted to our largest cleanup day to date! The team will continue to remove trash and waste tomorrow in surrounding areas. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Annapurna Base Camp:

Hello from Annapurna I Base Camp (4130m/13551ft)! Today we organized our largest cleanup yet here at the planet’s 10th highest peak. Our five-person cleanup crew was assisted by our guide and camp staff and, of course, our climber Nelly Attar, with whom we’re collaborating for this climbing and cleanup initiative. We wrapped up today’s cleanup late this afternoon as snow was starting to fall. Tomorrow morning we’ll wake up early and set out down the Mistri Khola drainage to pick up trash along the historic approach trail to the north side of Annapurna, which is now also a somewhat popular trekking route. From there we’ll send our first batch of waste out of the mountains to be recycled and otherwise disposed of. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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