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About Madison Mountaineering
Madison Mountaineering is a boutique mountain guide service specializing in leading expeditions to climb the world’s most famous and formidable peaks: Mount Everest, K2, the Antarctic’s Mount Vinson, the “Seven Summits”, and unclimbed peaks in the Himalayas.
Every year since 2014, we have led expeditions on all seven continents, including three of the four highest mountains in the world. Find detailed accounts of our most recent expeditions in our Dispatches.
As a part of our guided climbs, Madison Mountaineering provides the education and training for climbers who aspire to become self-sufficient, aware, and respectful of the local mountain culture, stewards of the environment, and for whom safety is the number one priority in all climbing endeavors.
In addition to regularly guiding the Seven Summits and 8000m peaks, Madison Mountaineering engages in several special projects each year, such as "first ascents" of unclimbed peaks, the "Second Seven Summits," and film consultations. During the COVID-19 pandemic, Madison Mountaineering has been the only international mountaineering company to continue operating on four continents (North America, South America, Africa, and Asia), while most companies shuttered operations or focused solely on limited domestic programs. We pride ourselves on client and crew safety first, taking calculated risks, and "opening the way" when reasonable and in accordance with all government guidelines and regulations.
Help us support relief in Nepal by donating generously to The Juniper Fund: https://www.thejuniperfund.org
Garrett Madison
President / Founder / Expedition Leader
Garrett Madison, America’s premier Everest guide and Expedition Leader, began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier and has reached the top of Everest 11 times. As Expedition Leader, he has personally led 70+ climbers (clients) to the summit of Everest since 2009, more than any other guide. In 2011, Garrett led the first expedition in history where climbers succeeded in the Everest – Lhotse combination, reaching the summit of two 8000-meter peaks back to back in less than 24 hours. He has since repeated this ‘doubleheader’ combination in 2013 and 2018 and is currently the only climber in the world to have done so 3 times. Garrett holds the record for guiding climbers (5) in reaching the summits of two 8000-meter peaks within 24 hours.
In 2014, Garrett led the first successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world. He reached the summit with 2 clients and 3 Sherpas on July 27, 2014, again on July 22, 2018, with 8 clients, 3 guides and 15 Sherpas, and most recently on July 28, 2021, with a summit team of 21. Garrett also regularly guides many ‘7 Summits’ expeditions during the year such as Mount Vinson, Carstensz Pyramid, Mount Elbrus, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, etc., as well as first ascents of unclimbed peaks in the Himalayas. As an Emmy award-winning producer, Garrett is regularly consulted on Everest and other film productions, including Sports Illustrated’s Capturing Everest.
Garrett holds multiple high-altitude mountaineering world records, such as being the only person to climb Mount Everest and nearby Mount Lhotse in a day, three times. He is the only American to climb K2 three times and has personally led more climbers (clients) to the summits of Mount Everest and K2 than anyone.
Choose your adventure!
Testimonials
The expedition faced some logistics challenges, but they were handled perfectly. One of Madison Mountaineering’s strengths is in their ability to plan for all contingencies. That sets them apart from other climbing outfits. The climbs themselves were smooth and safe. Our guides made very smart and sound decisions along the way under challenging circumstances, and our safety was always at the forefront. I can think of no weaknesses to improve upon. This expedition was 100% professional from start to finish.
I’ve climbed with a number of outfits throughout the years and Madison is hands down the best in all aspects. I have no need to work with anyone else in the future. Madison has an incredible success record because of the importance that they place on climber strength and teamwork. They employ the best guides and local staff of any outfit. I would climb with any one of them anywhere in the world.
Absolutely the best prepared, most experienced, and safest guide company on Everest. Climbing Everest with Madison Mountaineering exceeded my expectations, I could not be more satisfied with my experience.
You guys knocked it out of the park. It was a 10. It was a great experience from beginning to end. Best expedition I’ve ever been on! Madison Mountaineering is by far the leader on the mountain.
The quality of the experience was second to none. Everything just worked! The logistics were easy, the accommodations terrific, and our guide was one of the best we’ve ever worked with.
On July 27, 2014, my birthday, I became the oldest American to summit K2. The professionalism and skill of Garrett Madison was key in this achievement. His attention to detail, plus leveraging his extensive Everest experience gave our team the best chance to summit and descend safely and quickly on arguably the world’s toughest mountain.
We will never be able to thank you enough for the entire experience. I know I can speak for the group when I say: The entire experience was amazing. The attention to detail was constantly on display. We learned a tremendous amount of detailed information. The mental strength and composure displayed by our guides as far as being able to manage every situation we experienced definitely proved to us that you can effectively manage any possible situation.
Thanks for an awesome expedition – we were definitely blessed to have that good weather but also it would not have been possible without the expert guiding and logistics.
The best expedition I have ever been on, and I have been on many expeditions…I really like Garrett’s style
Fantastic guides – as good as it gets! Very good food while climbing all things considered. This was a truly exceptional trip and I deeply admire the Madison Mountaineering approach, values, attitude, and attention to the clients.
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