The Madison MountaineeringLhotse expedition team is in position to go for the summit! Now tucked into Lhotse Camp 4, the team had perfect climbing conditions today as they parted ways with our Everest team who were headed to the South Col. In just a few hours time, alarms are set to go off and the team will begin their push to the summit of the fourth-highest peak on the planet! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Lhotse:
Hello from Lhotse Camp 4 at 7,700m. We climbed here this morning from Everest / Lhotse Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) with the main Madison MountaineeringEverest (8848m/29,032ft) team. Route conditions were ideal, with perfect styrofoam snow the whole way except on the obligatory glacier ice bulges. Now we’ve settled into our tents and we’re resting in preparation for our final push to the summit of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), the fourth highest peak. We’re planning to start climbing toward the summit a few hours before dawn tomorrow morning. All is well here. We’ll be in touch!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
The Madison MountaineeringMount Everest–Lhotse expedition team climbed from Camp 2 to Camp 3 today, where they’re now tucked into their tents for the night after enjoying a warm meal and epic views over the Western Cwm. The team emerged from their tents in Camp 2 earlier in the day, scarfed down some breakfast, and clipped into the fixed lines that show the way up the Lhotse Face to their next camp. Despite some windy conditions, the team did excellent, moving strongly up the route, before the winds subsided and we could enjoy a nice evening in our camp for the night. Tomorrow, we move up higher! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 3:
Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team – today is Tuesday, May 20th and we are now in Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), just over 7,000 meters, just over 23,000 feet.
We left Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) earlier this morning, 6:00 AM. (We) set out in blustery conditions, it was blowing snow and it looked pretty windy up high on Everest and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft). We heard a lot of climbers turned back from their summit bids today. But by the time we got up to Camp 3 by mid-day, the winds calmed down, actually pretty nice day up here!
So, everyone’s doing well and we’ve been enjoying the views up here from Camp 3 looking out over the Western Cwm, Camp 2, and beyond. (We’re) looking forward to climbing up to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) tomorrow at the South Col!
So, all is well here in Camp 3. We’ll check in soon!
Looking out tent doors from Camp 3 over the Western Cwm.
Climbing from Camp 2 to Camp 3 today.
Looking up at the summit of Mount Everest.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
The Madison MountaineeringEverest–Lhotse expedition team climbed through the Khumbu Icefall in the early morning hours of May 17 on their way to Camp 2, marking the start of their summit rotation. With no crowds and good conditions, the team moved swiftly through the complicated terrain of the icefall and reached Camp 2 in good time. Now, the team plans to take a rest day before moving up to higher camps! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2:
We had a great climb from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) up through the Khumbu Icefall early this morning, we left at 1:00 AM and got up to Camp 2 about mid-day. It wasn’t crowded at all, good conditions, nice and cool for a good part of the day, then the sun came out in the afternoon.
But the team’s all settled in here at Camp 2. We’re having dinner and we’re excited for our rest day tomorrow! Beautiful conditions up here on Everest! Fingers crossed we’ll get to move up in a couple days time to push higher to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on our summit rotation.
All is well! We’ll check in soon.
Headlamps piercing the darkness and illuminating the route ahead.
Starting up through the Khumbu Icefall!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/PHOTO-2025-05-17-06-23-02-2.jpg12001600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2025-05-17 13:19:452025-05-17 13:50:51Tucked in at Camp 2
The Madison MountaineeringEverest and Lhotse expedition team are about to begin their summit rotation! Under the cover of darkness, the team will emerge from their base camp tents, strap on their crampons, dawn their packs, and set out for higher places. They’ll first climb through the Khumbu Icefall and up to Camp 2, before taking a rest day and then moving higher up the mountain. Let’s do this! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:
We are heading out early this morning on May 17th from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) to climb up to Camp 2, starting off on our summit rotation! Our plan is to head up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), take a rest day, and then if all is looking good, we’ll head up the Lhotse Face towards Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft), and eventually the summit.
The team’s doing well, everyone’s feeling healthy and strong, very excited, all packed up and prepared, and ready to go! So, we’re looking forward to what lies ahead and we’ll check in soon.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/PHOTO-2025-05-06-05-12-29-1.jpg12001600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2025-05-16 15:24:162025-05-16 16:18:18Summit rotation about to start!
The Madison Mountaineering team is hard at work getting ready for their push to the summit! They are planning to set off from Everest Base Camp in a few days time, heading for higher camps and with their sights set on the top of the world. The team is dialing everything in now, from their oxygen systems to their climbing kits. It won’t be long until they are on their way! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:
All of our members have come back from their rest down valley in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) and beyond. Everyone’s doing great here in base camp! We went for an acclimatization hike today up to Pumori Base Camp and had wonderful views looking back over at Everest, Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft). So, we’re just going through all of our oxygen systems now and plan for the next rotation while we press for the summit! We’re planning to leave in a couple of days and head up, maybe target around the 22nd of May.
So, all is well here in base camp! We’ll check in soon.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/PHOTO-2025-05-15-07-41-20.jpg12001600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2025-05-15 10:51:152025-05-15 14:53:09Prepping for the summit rotation!
The Madison MountaineeringMakalu expedition team has safely returned to their base camp after topping out on the world’s fifth-highest peak! Just in time for dinner, the team descended into their camp, concluding another chapter of this challenging expedition. The team climbed under the moon and stars from Camp 3, gaining Makalu’s summit ridge as the sunrise began to light-up the surrounding peaks – a welcome sight after climbing in the dark for so long! With Alex in our hearts, our team stepped onto the summit and embraced, taking in the moment as this dream was realized before turning back and heading down. We’re so proud of this team! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu Base Camp:
Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison MountaineeringMakalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition – today is May the 12th. It’s a beautiful morning here in base camp, sunny and warm, and we are relaxing after our successful summit yesterday morning! We stood on top of the fifth-highest peak on the planet yesterday, about 6:00 AM.
It was a great summit day! We left Camp 3 at about 9:30 PM on May 10th, climbed through the night under a mostly full moon and arrived on Makalu’s summit ridge just before sunrise, which meant we got to watch as the morning sun illuminated the Kangshung Face of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), right next door. We could see headlamps of climbers way up on Everest on the southeast ridge, just below the summit. So yeah, it was a really great summit day and then we descended all the way back down to base camp yesterday evening and arrived in time for dinner at our normal time, 6:00.
It was a great climb and I think the best possible way to wrap up what has been a really difficult time here at Makalu for the whole Madison Mountaineering team after our teammate and friend, Alex Pancoe passed away so suddenly at Camp 2 during our acclimatization rotation. That event just left us all reeling, but we talked it over and it was clear to us that Alex brought, he brought so much stoke to the mountains. He loved being here so much and we were sure that he would have wanted us to keep climbing. So, on the 8th, we realized that we had just enough time to get to the summit in good weather before jet stream winds returned to the top of the mountain, so we went for it.
We will spend the rest of today packing up, wrapping up the expedition and then we are going to start making our way back down to lower elevations! We’ll be in touch.
Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)
Final steps to Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)
Traversing Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/PHOTO-2025-05-11-22-06-51-2.jpg10671600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2025-05-12 05:28:482025-05-12 13:49:50Back in base camp after the summit!
The morning of May 11th brought uplifting news to our Everest–Lhotse expedition team: our Makalu team had successfully reached the summit! After a deeply emotional beginning to the journey with the loss of our dear teammate, Alex Pancoe, the entire team came together on the top, sharing heartfelt hugs and high-fives. We couldn’t be prouder of this incredible achievement — and we know Alex would be, too. As they awaited updates from the world’s fifth-highest peak, our Everest–Lhotse team rejoiced in the news, drawing inspiration as they prepare for their own summit rotation. Expedition leader Garrett Madison shares this latest dispatch from Everest Base Camp:
We’ve got some good news to report – our Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team led by Terray Sylvester, along with climbers Kristin and Aga, and five of our stellar Nepal Sherpas all summited Makalu today! They reported great weather conditions and had a wonderful summit. Now, they’re making their way down to Camp 3 and Camp 2.
So, we’re very happy for our Makalu team! It’s been a great end to their season, despite losing one of the team members, Alex Pancoe, to a likely cardiac arrest in Camp 2 earlier in the season. So, wonderful conclusion to the Makalu expedition!
The Everest team here, most of us are down in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) actually resting and recuperating, getting ready for the final summit rotation. A couple members are up here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) hanging out with myself and guides, Conan and Cacho, Aang Phurba’s up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) managing the Sherpa team at the moment.
So, all is well here on Mount Everest! We’re just watching the forecast and the rope fixing is in, so waiting for the winds to drop a bit and our members to be 100% before we embark on our final summit push!
So, all is well here in Nepal on Everest! We’ll check in soon.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
The Madison MountaineeringMakalu expedition team has ascended to Camp 3 and is now setting their sights on the summit. After a successful day of climbing, the team is settled into their sleeping bags, ready and in position for the final push. The day began with breathtaking views of Everest and Lhotse nearby, and the climbers moved efficiently and powerfully through mixed terrain of snow, rock, and ice. With a favorable weather window, they’re fully prepared to make their summit bid. Expedition leader Terray Sylvester shares this update from Makalu:
Hello from Camp 3 (7,480m / 24,540′). This morning we made good time here over the varied terrain (golden granite, snow, occasional ice) that leads to this camp located just on the far side of the Makalu La. The whole team is moving with strength and determination. I’m super proud of our climbers and sherpa staff. Clear skies this morning afforded us excellent views of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and the South Col (7900m/25,919ft) between them, seemingly just a stone’s throw away. Now the afternoon convective pattern that has prevailed lately has wrapped us in clouds. We plan to relax for the rest of the evening before potentially starting our final summit push. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
If Alex could talk to us, he would tell us to keep climbing. After much deliberation, the Madison MountaineeringMakalu expedition team is on the move, making their summit push in Alex’s honor. The team climbed from their base camp to Camp 2 today, moving strongly and efficiently up the route. Now crawling into their tents for the night, the team looks forward to climbing higher up the mountain tomorrow! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu:
Hello from Camp 2. This is Terray checking in via Inreach. The first day of our summit push went well as we made good time up 900 meters from Base Camp to Camp 2. We’re taking it one day, one step at a time, but looking forward to climbing to Camp 3 on the Makalu La tomorrow. We’ll be in touch then.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/20250428_MAKALU_TerraySylvester_R5_02059.jpg16682500Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2025-05-09 15:38:542025-05-09 15:38:54Makalu team on the move!
The Madison MountaineeringEverest–Lhotse expedition team is done with their acclimatization rotations on the mountain and look ahead to their summit push! After spending several days up at high-altitude building acclimatization, familiarizing themselves with the route, and putting their skills to the test, the team dropped back down to lower elevations where they’ll rest up and get ready for their final push up the mountain. This time, with eyes set on the summit! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalaya:
We had a great rotation up at Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and 2 (6500m/21,325ft), touched Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), made it back down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) yesterday afternoon. (We’re) resting and relaxing, some of us are going to head down to Namche (3440m/11,290ft) for a little bit of an acclimatization drop to get some thick oxygenated air and recharge, get ready for our final summit rotation, which will start in about a weeks time from base camp.
So, all is well here! We’re just happy that everyone had a great rotation, got some high-altitude, some technical training up on the Lhotse Face. Time to rest and recharge now. Check in soon!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/PHOTO-2023-05-14-06-58-22.jpg6821024Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2025-05-09 02:58:022025-05-09 13:04:21Time to rest and recharge!
