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Garrett Madison

President / Founder / Expedition Leader

Garrett Madison, America’s premier Everest guide and climber, began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier and has reached the top of Everest 11 times. As Expedition Leader, he has personally led 70+ climbers (clients) to the summit of Everest since 2009, more than any other guide. In 2011, Garrett led the first expedition in history where climbers succeeded in the EverestLhotse combination, reaching the summit of two 8000-meter peaks back to back in less than 24 hours. He has since repeated this ‘doubleheader’ combination in 2013 and 2018 and is currently the only climber in the world to have done so 3 times. Garrett holds the record for guiding climbers (5) in reaching the summits of two 8000-meter peaks within 24 hours.

In 2014, Garrett led the first successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world. He reached the summit with 2 clients and 3 Sherpas on July 27, 2014, again on July 22, 2018, with 8 clients, 3 guides and 15 Sherpas, and most recently on July 28, 2021, with a summit team of 21. Garrett also regularly guides many ‘7 Summits’ expeditions during the year such as Mount Vinson, Carstensz Pyramid, Mount Elbrus, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, etc., as well as first ascents of unclimbed peaks in the Himalayas. As an Emmy award-winning producer, Garrett is regularly consulted on Everest and other film productions, including Sports Illustrated’s Capturing Everest

Garrett holds multiple high-altitude mountaineering world records, such as being the only person to climb Mount Everest and nearby Mount Lhotse in a day, three times. He is the only American to climb K2 three times and has personally led more climbers (clients) to the summits of Mount Everest and K2 than anyone.

In addition to leading high-altitude expeditions worldwide throughout the year, Garrett consults on mountaineering equipment development and testing and is an athlete for Mountain Hardwear. Mountain Hardwear offers a selection of high altitude expedition gear personally designed and endorsed by Garrett in the Garrett Madison Collection.

Garrett speaks professionally to organizations and teams about his mountaineering experiences, leadership, and managing risk. Some recent examples include Google, Microsoft, Amazon, Facebook, SAP, and many others. Garrett's forthcoming book "High-Stakes Leadership: When Your Life And The Lives Of Others Hang In The Balance" is coming soon.

Resume (significant ascents & expeditions):

  • Everest (14 expeditions / 11 ascents)
  • K2 (6 expeditions / 3 ascents)
  • Mt. Rainier (over 200 ascents)
  • Lhotse, 4th highest (3 ascents)
  • Makalu expedition (5th highest)
  • Cho Oyu expedition (6th highest)
  • Manaslu expedition (8th highest)
  • Aconcagua (15 expeditions)
  • Denali (3 expeditions)
  • Kilimanjaro, Africa (8 expeditions)
  • Mt. Elbrus, Russia (3 expeditions)
  • Mt. Vinson, Antarctica (19 expeditions)
  • Carstensz Pyramid, Indonesia (2 ascents)
  • Dykh-Tau, Russia (1 ascent)
  • Ama Dablam, Nepal (3 expeditions)
  • Unclimbed Peak, Nepal (3 expeditions)
  • Island Peak, Nepal (1 ascents)
  • Mexico Volcanoes (6 expeditions)
  • Ecuador Volcanoes (2 expedition)
  • Peru (Cordillera Blanca)
  • Numerous climbs in Washington State (Mt. Baker, Shuksan, Olympus, North Cascades, etc.)

Personal Climbs

  • 6 ascents of Mont Blanc
  • 1 ascent of the Matterhorn
  • 1 attempt of Mt. Nuptse, Nepal (reached 7200 meters)

Certifications

  • Wilderness First Responder
  • Level 2 Avalanche Forecasting for Guides
  • Leave No Trace Trainer
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