Setting off on the summit push!

Birthday party for our climber, Fatima!

The Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin expedition team is set to start the summit push in a few hours time! They’ll get an alpine start out of Camp 1, and return back in a few days after making their go at the summit. Feeling rested and recovered after a few days at lower altitudes, the team is psyched and ready to go! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Peak Lenin:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin (7134m/23,406ft) expedition. Today is July 14.

We have spent the last two nights in Camp 1, Advanced Base Camp (4400m/14,435ft) at the foot of Peak Lenin. Tomorrow morning, we are planning to wake up early. We’ll have breakfast at 2:30 AM and then start our summit push. If all goes as planned, in a few days we’ll be standing on the summit of the second highest peak in both Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan at 7,134 meters.

Before we go to bed tonight, we’re also going to celebrate a very special event: the birthday of one of our climbers, Fatima!

So all is well here and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Birthday party for our climber, Fatima!

Birthday party for our climber, Fatima!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Acclimatization Rotation Done

Morning light on Peak Lenin (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin expedition team wrapped up their acclimatization rotation yesterday after spending three nights in Camp 2. In that time, the team climbed to over 6,000 meters on two separate occasions, building the acclimatization needed to go for the summit which stands at 7134m / 23,406ft. The team enjoyed good weather and climbing conditions throughout, and is excited to be back in Camp 1 where they can rest, recover, and get ready for their summit push! More to come from the Pamirs. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Peak Lenin:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin (7134m/23,406ft) expedition. Today is July 12th.

Today, we wrapped up our acclimatization rotation. We descended back to Advanced Base Camp at Camp 1 (4400m/14,435ft). For the rotation, we spent three nights at Camp 2 (5300m/17,388ft) at about 5,400 meters. And twice we climbed to 6,000 meters and above. Yesterday, the team summited Razdelnaya Peak (6148m/20,170ft), which has an altitude of 6,150 meters. That name, Razdelnaya, means divided. The Tajik, Kyrg’s border runs over the top of it. And actually, that’s true of Peak Lenin as well, which is right on the border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan.

Overall, we had really nice weather for our rotation. Sunny skies and beautiful views for the first two days. Yesterday, a bit of snow was in the forecast, but it held off until the afternoon. And actually, the climbing conditions were really good yesterday. As we made our way up towards 6,100 meters, there was light overcast, which kept temperatures down, and made climbing really fun. No wind at all!

Today we descended back down to Camp 1. We’ll be here for at least two nights while we rest and prepare and watch the weather forecast for our summit push.

So, all is well here in Kyrgyzstan and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Climbing to Camp 2 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Climbing to Camp 2 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Upper Camp 2 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Upper Camp 2 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Looking down towards Camp 2 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Looking down towards Camp 2 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Razdelnaya Peak

Our climbers Bruce and Fatima approaching 6000 meters (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering team kicked the weekend off with a climb on Razdelnaya Peak, which neighbors Peak Lenin and stands at over 6,000 meters. In a short time, we’ll descend back down to Advanced Base Camp, marking the end of our acclimatization rotation. The team has been doing great and looks forward to starting their summit push in a few days time! Preparations are almost complete and the team can turn their sights to the summit. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Peak Lenin:

Hello from Camp 2 (5300m/17,388ft)! Today we summited Razdelnaya Peak (6148m/20,170ft) then returned here to Camp 2. Today’s ascent was our team’s second push to 6,000m and above, and this will be our third night at 5,400m. Tomorrow we plan to wrap up our acclimatization rotation and descend back to Advanced Base Camp / Camp 1 (4400m/14,435ft). We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Bluebird in Camp 2

The Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin expedition team ascended to just short of Camp 3 today, before turning back to Camp 2. By climbing high and sleeping low, their bodies will be better adapted to lower levels of oxygen when they climb to Camp 3 in the next few days. This process serves as an integral part of our high-altitude expeditions and is practiced on other peaks around the globe such as Everest, K2, and more. Stay tuned as the team climbs higher up the mountain! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch via Garmin InReach:

Hello from Camp 2 (5300m/17,388ft)! Today was another beautiful bluebird day. We climbed to just below Camp 3 and returned to Camp 2 for tonight. Tomorrow we’re planning another full day of acclimatization here on the upper mountain. The team is doing well. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Camp 2 on Peak Lenin

The Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin expedition team departed Camp 1 today to continue their acclimatization rotation up to Camp 2. With some fresh snow on the route, but blue skies shining down on them, the team moved smoothly up to their next camp situated above 5,000 meters. Tomorrow, the team plans to take an active-rest day before continuing on up the mountain. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this brief message from Camp 2 via Garmin InReach:

Hello from Camp 2 at 5,400m! Today we had great weather as we climbed here from Camp 1. Blue skies and a dusting of fresh snow on the glaciers. We’re settled into our tents now and looking forward to an active rest day tomorrow. We’ll be in touch then!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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To Camp 2 Tomorrow!

The team at the foot of Peak Lenin (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin expedition team will be on the move again soon! After a few nights in Advanced Base Camp, they plan to climb on to Camp 2 tomorrow. In a few days time, they’ll return back to Camp 1 after wrapping up their acclimatization rotation. The team is all in good spirits and doing great! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Advanced Base Camp on Peak Lenin:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin (7134m/23,406ft) expedition. Today is July 8.

Today we went for a walk part way up the route toward Camp 1 (4400m/14,435ft) in the morning, and then returned to Camp 1, our Advanced Base Camp, and spent the rest of the day getting ready for our acclimatization rotation on the mountain.

Tomorrow we’re planning to move to Camp 2 (5300m/17,388ft), where if all goes according to plan, we’ll spend two nights. Then bump up to Camp 3 (6100m/20,013ft) for one night, summit Razdelnaya Peak (6148m/20,170ft), and then return down to Camp 1, Advanced Base Camp, to rest for our summit push.

It’s been a beautiful day! Now, a little bit of snow this evening, but mostly clear skies for most of the day. And we’re looking forward to an alpine start tonight! We’ll be in touch.

Hiking just above Advance Base Camp. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Hiking just above Advance Base Camp. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Hiking just above Advance Base Camp. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Hiking just above Advance Base Camp. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Technical Skills Review

Bruce, one of our Lenin Peak climbers, practicing fixed line ascent skills. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin expedition team took to the glacier that sits near Advanced Base Camp for some technical skills review. The morning was spent practicing the skills needed for the climbing to come. That way, we’ll all feel sharp and ready to go when we climb to Camp 2 and on the way towards the summit! With good weather ahead, the team plans to continue their acclimatization rotation up the mountain. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Peak Lenin:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin (7134m/23,406ft) expedition. Today is July 7th.

Today we headed out 15 minutes along the route that we will take when we move to Camp 2 (5300m/17,388ft) onto a glacier with a nice location for technical skills training. We spent the morning practicing fixed-line ascent and descent techniques, rappelling, footwork, ice axe technique, moving as a rope team, and other skills. Then we came back to advanced base camp (4400m/14,435ft) for lunch.

We’re relaxing this evening, and tomorrow, we plan to prepare for the first day of our rotation if conditions permit us to move up the mountain in two days.

All is well here in Kyrgyzstan. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Guide Andrei Kuznetsov working with Chris, one of our Lenin Peak climbers. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide Andrei Kuznetsov working with Chris, one of our Lenin Peak climbers. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Chris, rappelling. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Chris, rappelling. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Yukhin Peak

The team on top of Yukhin Peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin expedition team ascended Yukhin Peak today under wispy skies with more great views of the mountains surrounding. After about an hour on the summit, the team shouldered their packs and descended back down to Camp 1 for lunch and to get ready for some technical training tomorrow! The initial acclimatization rotation has been smooth sailing so far, and technical training will be an important piece of the puzzle as we gear up for the climbing to come. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Peak Lenin:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin (7134m/23,406ft) expedition. Today is the 6th of July.

Today, we went for an acclimatization hike to the top of Yukhin Peak (5130m/16,831ft) at 5,100 meters. The weather continued to be really nice this morning: a few cloud wisps on the mountaintops around us, but basically blue skies. We lingered on the top of Yukhin Peak for about an hour. And then we descended back to Camp 1 (4400m/14,435ft) in time for lunch.

This afternoon, we’ve been prepping our climbing gear for our day of technical skills training tomorrow.

Everything is going well here at Peak Lenin. It’s snowing lightly this evening. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Lenin Peak climbers Jeff and Chris on the summit of Yukhin Peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Lenin Peak climbers Jeff and Chris on the summit of Yukhin Peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Bruce, approaching the top of Yukhin Peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Bruce, approaching the top of Yukhin Peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Chris, summiting Yukhin Peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Chris, summiting Yukhin Peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Views of Peak Lenin (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Views of Peak Lenin (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Domashniy Peak

The team on top of Domashniy (Home) Peak with Peak Lenin in the background (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin expedition team hiked to the summit of Domashniy Peak over the weekend as they continue their acclimatization efforts. It was a beautiful day that presented excellent views of Peak Lenin, as well as the other surrounding peaks and valleys. In fact, the weather was so good that the team was able to spend extra time at their high point for the day basking in the sunshine and examining the route up Peak Lenin. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checked in with this dispatch from Camp 1:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin (7134m/23,406ft) expedition. Today is July 5th.

Today we went for an acclimatization hike up Home Peak, Domashniy Peak (4700m/15,420ft), right above Camp 1 (4400m/14,435ft). We came back down in time for lunch, and we lingered for a long time on the summit, because the sky is completely clear today! So we had great views of the whole face of Peak Lenin up to almost Camp 2 (5300m/17,388ft), which was hidden from sight. And then, the summit ridge as well, all the way up to almost the summit of Peak Lenin. We can’t quite see the true summit from here.

We came down for lunch, and we’ve been relaxing this afternoon. Tomorrow, we’re planning another acclimatization hike up Yukhin Peak (5130m/16,831ft). And after that, we’ll be preparing for our first rotation.

Everything’s going really well here in Kyrgyzstan. We will be in touch tomorrow.

Excellent views of Peak Lenin! (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Excellent views of Peak Lenin! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers, Jeff and Fatima, with guide Andrei Kuznetsov (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers, Jeff and Fatima, with guide Andrei Kuznetsov (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Morning views of Peak Lenin from Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Morning views of Peak Lenin from Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Camp 1 on Peak Lenin

Loading the vehicle to the trailhead in base camp (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering team is on the move to start their acclimatization rotation! The team moved to Camp 1 from base camp over the weekend, where they’ll continue their acclimatization efforts and technical training before starting their summit push. Everyone is doing great so far, and motivated with the mountain hanging high above them. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Camp 1 on Peak Lenin:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin (7134m/23,406ft) expedition. Today is July 4th here in the Pamir Mountains of Kyrgyzstan.

This morning, we left base camp (3600m/11,800ft) at 8.30 a.m. We drove to the trailhead, to the trail to Camp 1 (4400m/14,435ft). (We) started walking around 9:00, and by 12:30, we were in Camp 1 at 4,400 meters. We had a really nice walk. The team was super strong, did a really good job. We had a nice lunch in Camp 1 and settled into our tents, and then relaxed for most of the afternoon. And now we just finished dinner, and we’re enjoying a non-alcoholic beverage in the cozy bar here at Camp 1.

We had some really nice views of Peak Lenin just above us, but now it’s a little socked in. However, we can see down the valley toward the peaks above base camp, and it’s really beautiful down there, alpenglow on the peaks.

We’ll be here in Camp 1 for at least five nights. We’ll be doing some acclimatization hikes and some training before we head on up to Camp 2 (5300m/17,388ft).

So everything is going really well here in Kyrgyzstan, and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

The team trekking to Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The team trekking to Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

A pack train en route to Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

A pack train en route to Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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