First Vinson team of the season tops out!

On the summit of Mount Vinson!

It comes with great excitement to share that the first Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson expedition team of the season successfully reached the summit and returned to their high camp safe and sound! The team topped out together, slapped high-fives, shared hugs, and snapped some summit photos while taking in the scenery from the highest point in Antarctica. After turning back the way they came to descend down the mountain to their camp, the team crawled into their sleeping bags after a warm meal for a good nights rest. Today, the team will continue their descent down the fixed-lines and onward to Vinson Base Camp. Awesome work, team! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Mount Vinson:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson (4892m/16,050ft) expedition – first one of the season.

We topped out on Mount Vinson yesterday. (We) had a bit of a stormy day up there, but everyone made it to the top! (We) had a fun climb, got some great photos at the summit, had a clearing there for a couple of minutes on top, and could see some of the surrounding peaks and the polar plateau. So, it was really beautiful!

(We) all made it back down to high camp (3536m/11,600ft) last night, had a good nights rest, and planning to head down to Vinson Base Camp (2140m/7,020ft) today.

So all’s well here! And we’ll check in soon.

Taking in the views after topping out!

Taking in the views after topping out!

The view looking out from the summit.

The view looking out from the summit.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

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Aconcagua team reaches Plaza de Mulas Base Camp

Blue skies for the trek to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp.

After several days trekking up the Horcones Valley, the Madison Mountaineering expedition team has reached their base camp at the foot of Aconcagua. The team worked on building acclimatization along the way, and are psyched to begin moving up the mountain! With carries up the mountain set to start soon, we’re in good spirits and feeling prepared for what’s to come. Expedition leader, Cacho Beiza checked in with this brief dispatch from Plaza de Mulas Base Camp:

We arrived today at Plaza de Mulas Base Camp (4367m/14,327ft) with all the team. Now resting after dinner. All the members in a good mood and condition!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

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Aconcagua season is underway!

Team photo in Mendoza!

The first of the Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) expeditions is underway for the 2025 / 2026 season and boy, is it good to be back on the highest peak outside of Asia! The team came together in the beautiful city of Mendoza (746m/2,449ft), enjoyed a welcome dinner together, and conducted a quick gear check before making their final preparations to begin the trek towards Plaza de Mulas Base Camp (4367m/14,327ft).

The team hit the trail yesterday and arrived in Confluencia Camp (3436m/11,273ft). After settling in, we enjoyed a nice barbecue for dinner and crawled into tents for a good nights sleep. Today, the team plans to work on their acclimatization by climbing to Plaza Francia (4228m/13,871ft), and then they’ll return back to Confluencia Camp once again for one more night before continuing onto base camp.

The weather has been excellent so far and everyone on the team is doing great. Check in soon!

The team under blue skies and with Aconcagua towering high above.

The team under blue skies and with Aconcagua towering high above.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

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Summit push on Mount Vinson coming up!

Climbing towards Mount Vinson High Camp.

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson expedition team has reached their high camp! That means they are in position to make a summit push, which is expected to take place tomorrow assuming good weather. The team moved strongly up the fixed-lines which separate low camp from high camp and crawled into their sleeping bags for the night. Today, the team rested and made preparations to go for the summit! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison and guide, Phunuru Sherpa checked in with this dispatch from Mount Vinson High Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett and Phunuru Sherpa checking in for the Mount Vinson (4892m/16,050ft) expedition, first one of the season from Mount Vinson High Camp (3536m/11,600ft)! We arrived yesterday after a good climb up from low camp (2774m/9,100ft), had some clouds, some wind, but the team was strong and pushed through and made it to high camp. We set up our tents and made our dinner, and we got to bed before the wind picked up, and we had a good blow over the night of wind and snow, but today, it’s much nicer! The sun’s poking out. So our team’s resting today, and we’re hoping to make our summit attempt tomorrow, fingers crossed! And here’s Phunuru.

Here we go! I look forward to the summit tomorrow. Thanks!

All right, check in soon!

The team ascending fixed-lines between low camp and high camp.

The team ascending fixed-lines between low camp and high camp.

Up the headwall.

Up the headwall.

All smiles from Antarctica!

All smiles from Antarctica!

Mount Vinson High Camp

Mount Vinson High Camp

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

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On up to Low Camp

Mount Vinson Low Camp

And they’re on the move! The Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson expedition team wasted no time moving from Base Camp to Low Camp. After a good day climbing up the valley towards Low Camp, we settled in, fueled up with tasty meals, and took a rest day here with plans to continue up the route soon! The team reviewed fixed-line training and is feeling sharp and ready for what lies ahead in the coming days. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Mount Vinson Low Camp:

Hey, this is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering first Mount Vinson (4892m/16,050ft) climb of the season. We are up at Low Camp (2774m/9,100ft)!

We flew into Vinson Base Camp (2140m/7,020ft) a couple nights ago, had a great night there. And then yesterday moved up to Low Camp here, settled in, and taken a rest day today. Team’s doing great! We did some fixed line training, had a couple of good meals and got organized. We’re planning to move up to High Camp (3536m/11,600ft) tomorrow if the weather’s good, and see what lies in store.

So all is well here on Mount Vinson, highest peak on the continent of Antarctica here, bottom of the world! I’ll check in soon.

The team together in Union Glacier Camp before their flight to the mountain!

The team together in Union Glacier Camp before their flight to the mountain!

Excellent views while flying to Base Camp!

Excellent views while flying to Base Camp!

Mount Vinson Base Camp

Mount Vinson Base Camp

Our Mountain Hardwear Trango tents set up in Vinson Base Camp.

Our Mountain Hardwear Trango tents set up in Vinson Base Camp.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

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Greetings from Union Glacier Camp!

The team together after touching down in Union Glacier Camp!

The Antarctic season is officially underway! The first of our Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson expeditions teams went wheels up out of Punta Arenas and have settled in on the ice. After a scenic flight, the team took their first steps onto the frozen continent, breathing in the cold air while welcoming excellent views of Union Glacier Camp and the surrounding areas. We look to move to Mount Vinson Base Camp tomorrow. Fingers crossed for clear and sunny skies! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Antarctica:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the first Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson (4892m/16,050ft) climb of the season.

Today is December 4th and we made it to Union Glacier Camp (700m/2,297ft) in Antarctica! We flew in from Punta Arenas (34m/112ft) on the Boeing 757, landed at Union Glacier, and settled into our camp here. We’re hoping to fly over to Mount Vinson Base Camp (2140m/7,020ft) tomorrow, so fingers crossed for good weather.

And we’re just enjoying Union Glacier Camp here! It’s bright and sunny, beautiful scenery, great food, nice people, and really magical to be here.

So all’s well in Antarctica! We’ll check in soon.

Looking out the plane window over the frozen continent.

Looking out the plane window over the frozen continent.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

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Another perfect season on Carstensz Pyramid!

Summit photo atop Carstensz Pyramid!

The Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid expedition team wrapped up another successful climb on Oceania’s highest peak over the weekend with 100% summit success! This marks the end of another perfect season with all of our climbers topping out. The team moved swiftly and efficiently while climbing the route, making good time to the top and being rewarded with excellent views upon reaching the summit! Now the team is all off of the mountain and making their way home safe and sound. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Peak (4884m/16,024ft) expedition – today is November 15th.

Today we left base camp on our summit push at about 2:45 a.m. and we stepped onto the summit of Carstensz Peak just a little over four hours later! We had a great climb. As we left base camp, there was some stars in the sky, but some fog came in as we approached the first and second terraces – the big ledges on the way up the route, the Heinrich Harrer route, which is the normal route here on Carstensz Pyramid. And then, as we got to the summit ridge, it was just overcast, cloudy skies. But as we stepped onto the summit, the sun came out and gave us some great views of the highlands around us, really magnificent limestone landscape. And over toward the Freeport Mine, which is an amazing feature of a Carstensz Pyramid climb – one of the largest open pit gold mines in the world, just a couple of miles from the summit of Carstensz Pyramid. We could also see down into the lush forests of New Guinea.

We came back down to base camp, had a good lunch, and now we’re relaxing before dinner. We’re hoping to fly out tomorrow, weather permitting, and then continue our way back to Bali.

So, yeah, it was a great, great climb, 100% success, really successful, wonderful day here on Carstensz Pyramid! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Summit photo atop Carstensz Pyramid!

Summit photo atop Carstensz Pyramid!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

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At the Yellow Valley Base Camp!

Our climber, Bob, approaching the first terrace (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Hello, from Carstensz Pyramid! The Madison Mountaineering team has arrived at the foot of the peak, settled into their camp for the night, and eyes a potential summit push as soon as tomorrow! After arriving in Timika a few days ago, the team called off one helicopter flight to camp due to cloudy weather, but made the most of their time by taking a boat trip down the river to a nomadic fishing community. Their patience paid off as the flight up to their base camp today was perfect! After arriving in camp and getting on the lower sections of the route, the team is fueling up and off to bed, prepared to wake up early tomorrow and go for the summit if weather allows. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) expedition – today is November 14.

Today, we flew to Yellow Valley Base Camp (4285m/14,050ft) at the foot of Carstensz Pyramid! We left our hotel about 5 a.m, headed to the airport. Skies were clear! So, two heli trips took the entire team up here to base camp. It’s really nice for all of us to be here together in one go! And we had a beautiful, scenic flight in. Really nice views of the Sudirman Range and our pilot took us right in over the massive open pit of the Freeport Mine, so we had really spectacular views of the mine itself – one of the largest gold mines in the world!

After we landed, we went for an acclimatization hike up the lower portion of the route, and went to the first ledge – to the first major ledge of the terrace system on the climbing route, then descended back to base camp as the rain was starting for the day. (We) just had lunch and now we’re relaxing until dinner. We will try for the summit tomorrow morning if the weather is good enough when we wake up.

Yeah, it’s been a really good trip so far! We arrived in Timika (31m/103ft) two nights ago. Yesterday, we tried to fly to base camp, but it was too cloudy. So instead, we went down to the river delta south of Timika and took a riverboat down to the edge of the Arafura Sea to visit a community of nomadic fishing people there. That was really spectacular, really beautiful on the river! We had a lot of fun at the village, saw a dugout canoe being being carved out.

And then, yeah, woke up and flew to base camp this morning. So the team is doing really well, and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Flying into the Sudirman Range (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Flying into the Sudirman Range (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers, Raj and Louis, relaxing on the First Terrace, partway up the standard Heinrich Harrer route on Carstensz Pyramid (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers, Raj and Louis, relaxing on the First Terrace, partway up the standard Heinrich Harrer route on Carstensz Pyramid (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers, Bob and Chuck, preparing to fly to base camp.

Our climbers, Bob and Chuck, preparing to fly to base camp.

Guide Terray Sylvester with our guests Bob and Chuck near the Arafura Sea.

Guide Terray Sylvester with our guests Bob and Chuck near the Arafura Sea.

With kids in Amamapare Village

With kids in Amamapare Village

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

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Another Carstensz Pyramid team has arrived in Bali!

The team together in Bali awaiting their flight to Timika.

Another Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid expedition team has gathered together in Bali! It’s been a leisurely start to the expedition relaxing and swimming in the sunshine at our beachfront hotel. Now the team is in Timika awaiting their helicopter flight to the Yellow Valley Base Camp! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this inaugural dispatch from Bali:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) expedition – today is November 11th.

Late last night, our team arrived here in Bali. We spent last night and all of today relaxing in our beachfront hotel in Sanur (0m/oft.) It was a really nice day, sunny weather, went for swimming in the pool and went for some nice runs along the waterfront. And then an hour ago, we came to the domestic airport here in Denpasar (4m/13ft) and we’re about to board our flight to Timika (31m/103ft) over on the island of New Guinea in Indonesian province of West Papua.

So we’re excited to get this expedition underway! We’ll land in Timika and then wait for our helicopter flight up to Yellow Valley Base Camp at the foot of the highest peak in Oceania.

Everything’s going well so far, and we’ll be in touch tomorrow from New Guinea!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

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Cleanup expedition complete in the Khumbu!

Last team dinner in Kathmandu!

The Madison Mountaineering Gokyo Ri, Lobuche East and Island Peak environmental restoration expedition team has concluded their time in the Khumbu! After a beautiful trek out of the valley and one final celebratory dinner together, the team said their goodbyes and began the journey back to their home countries. It was a hugely successful trip to the Khumbu Valley made possible by an awesome team of climbers, Sherpa’s, porters and guides. The team put boots on the summit of both Lobuche East and Island Peak, as well as Gokyo Ri and removed around 76 kilos of trash while doing so! Awesome work to the team. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this closing dispatch from this post-monsoon season in Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Gokyo Ri, Lobuche East and Island Peak expedition – today is November 6th.

Today, we flew back from Luka (2860m/9,383ft) to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft). Over the last several days, we enjoyed a really beautiful hike back down the Khumbu Valley from Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft). The weather was excellent – clear blue skies and beautiful fall colors on the hillsides.

And then, yeah, since we’ve arrived back in Kathmandu, we’ve been getting sorted out, taking showers, getting repacked. We just finished up our final dinner at Le Sherpa restaurant here in Kathmandu. And then early tomorrow morning, our first guests will start to depart for their home countries.

So, all in all, it was a really great trip! Successful summits on the Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) and Island Peak, as well as Gokyo Ri (4750m, 15,583ft.) And we cleaned up a total of about 76 kilos of trash, which is a good amount! That was mostly from Gokyo Ri and Lobuche East. But then the heavy snow put a stop to our cleanup efforts for this trip. However, we will continue to look for cleanup opportunities this fall, and of course, in future climbing seasons.

So all is well here! It was an excellent expedition. And looking forward to coming back to Nepal in the future!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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