As Expedition Leader and Guide for 6 years running, Garrett Madison has overseen all aspects for his teams related to planning, organization, and climbing on Everest/Lhotse. As one of the best known “Expedition Leaders” on Everest/Lhotse, Garrett has personally accompanied 37 climbers (clients) to the summit over the last 7 years (as well as many co guides and climbing Sherpas), and 4 to the summit of Lhotse, more than any other American. Garrett has recently climbed Lhotse (4th highest mountain) two times, in guiding climbers on the “peak to peak” combination in under 24 hours. Garrett has been part of many “firsts” on Everest, however, his proudest accomplishment is a 100% safety record.

Mt. Everest, known by the Nepalese/Sherpas as Sagarmatha and by the Tibetans as Chomolungma, is the world’s highest peak at 29,035’ (8850m) and is the border between Nepal and Tibet. Since the 1920s, many of the world’s top climbers have attempted to scale Everest, and May 29th, 1953 marked the first successful ascent by Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) and Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand). Madison Mountaineering offers an unparalleled opportunity to climb Everest with small teams, top guides/Sherpas, and a focus on safety, summit success, and enjoying the experience of Everest throughout the expedition.

Now leading his 7th expedition to Everest (the last 6 years as ‘Expedition Leader’), Garrett Madison has reached the top 6 times (once per expedition), a very rare if not unmatched record for a guide. Garrett has personally guided more climbers (37) over the last 5 years than any other American mountain guide. This vast amount of organizational and logistical experience, combined with a commitment to provide the best possible services to ensure safety and success, make Madison Mountaineering the premier boutique guiding company on Everest. Enjoying the experience is a high priority, and our climbers can attest to having a great time throughout!

Our teams are different than the large scale operations where climbers are slotted into specific dates for rotations and summit attempts and maybe one of many people sitting down to eat in the dining tent, or dealing with illness spreading throughout the group. Often these large groups have only a leader who remains in base camp, while with our team your leader climbs with you to the summit. By keeping our team small yet highly supported, we don’t compromise our standards in providing the best strategy, flexibility, and resources needed to succeed in the dynamic environment that is Everest. The equation for success and safety involves variables that can and often rapidly change such as:
  • Weather (wind speed, precipitation, temperature)
  • Acclimatization and health
  • Climbing route (the route often changes daily through the Khumbu Icefall)
  • Other climbers and teams (climbers needing assistance, evacuation, as well as periodic overcrowding on the route) Some teams now bring over 100+ Climbers and Sherpas, hardly an intimate experience!
We can quickly adjust to changing conditions better than any other team. We have the best communication systems available to monitor the weather (along with a dedicated meteorologist), to communicate with other teams on the mountain to collaborate on the route, weather, rescues, and summit schedule. We have an experienced base camp manager, a menu plan developed by a certified nutritionist, and a helicopter available that can evacuate an injured or ill climber if necessary from as high as Camp 3. Our Sherpas are among the finest and most respected on the mountain. We are a team that works together to accomplish our common goals of safety, success, and having fun. If you would like to know more, we invite you to contact us!
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Lhotse Face Route

Date(s)
  • April 2 - May 31, 2021
Cost USD 44,500
Deposit USD 15,500

April 2: Meet in Kathmandu, Nepal
April 3: City tour of Kathmandu
April 4: Fly to Lukla and begin the trek to base camp (stay in Phakding)
April 5: Trek to Namche
April 6-7: Rest in Namche, Everest View Point, etc.
April 8: Trek to Debuche
April 9: Trek to Pangboche
April 10: Trek to Pheriche
April 11: Rest in Pheriche
April 12: Trek to Lobuche
April 13: Rest in Lobuche
April 14: Trek to Everest base camp
April 15-20: Acclimatize and review mountaineering technique (ladder practice, fixed lines, etc) in base camp, Puja ceremony.
April 21: Climb to Camp 1
April 22: Rest in Camp 1
April 23: Climb to Camp 2
April 24: Rest in Camp 2
April 25: Descend to base camp
April 26-30: Rest in base camp
May 1: Climb to Camp 2
May 2: Rest in Camp 2
May 3: Rest in Camp 2 (hike up west shoulder)
May 4: Touch Camp 3, sleep in Camp 2
May 5: Descend to base camp
May 6-13: Descend and rest in Debuche or Namche, evaluate weather conditions for summit rotation
May 14: Climb to Camp 2
May 15: Rest in Camp 2
May 16: Climb to Camp 3 (use O2)
May 17: Climb to Lhotse High Camp (use O2)
May 18: Climb to Summit! (use O2) and return to Camp 2
May 19: Rest in Camp 2
May 20: Rest in Camp 2
May 21: Descend to base camp
May 22-24: Trek to Lukla
May 25: Arrive Kathmandu
May 26: Depart for home
May 27-31: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc. (contingency)

*Schedule subject to change based on route conditions, weather conditions, and climber health.

Lhotse Climb

  • April 2 - May 31, 2021
Cost: USD 44,500
Deposit: USD 15,500

Costs Include:

  • Airport pick up in Kathmandu
  • 3 night accommodations in Kathmandu at Yak & Yeti Hotel, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition
  • Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
  • Lodging for all nights during the trek to and from base camp
  • Tents during the climb
  • All food during the trek and climb. We provide high-quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have specific dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!
  • All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu. Helicopter out of base camp after the expedition is available as an optional upgrade
  • All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, oxygen delivery system and oxygen cylinders, medical supplies, etc.
  • Internet access wifi is available to all climbers on our team at base camp ($50/gigabyte). Sat phone is available at $3 per minute
  • Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and American mountain guides
  • All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits

Costs Do Not Include:

  • Bank or wire transfer fees (if applicable)
  • Round-trip airfare to Kathmandu, Nepal
  • Meals in Kathmandu and hotels after the climb (once the climber has left the mountain)
  • Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list)
  • Trip cancelation insurance or the required medical evacuation insurance
  • Comprehensive medical exam: a physician signed Medical Release Form is required
  • Alcoholic beverages
  • Bottled or canned beverages
  • Specialty coffee or espresso drinks
  • All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
  • Personal Items
  • Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering
  • Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Nepal and home country
  • Gratuity for Western guide
  • $1000 per Sherpa summit bonus

Cancellation/Refund Policy

  • There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without reaching or making progress towards expedition objective(s) (for example, the summit) due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering.
  • Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts towards reaching expedition objective(s) within our margin of safety.
  • Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
  • Madison Mountaineering highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
  • Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
  • Deposit due with registration materials
  • All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
  • Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Print Gear List


Base Layers

  • Synthetic Short Underwear (2-3 pair): non-cotton style underwear
  • Lightweight Long Underwear (2-3 pair): long sleeve shirt and long pants
  • Heavyweight Long Underwear (1 pair)
  • Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt (1-2 pair)

Mid Layer

  • Soft Shell Jacket: to be worn over other layers
  • Soft Shell Pants: very breathable and water repellant
  • Lightweight Nylon Pants (1-2 pair)

Waterproof/Rain Layers

  • Hard Shell Jacket with hood: waterproof and breathable shell jacket
  • Hard Shell Pants: waterproof and breathable shell pants

Insulation Layers 

  • Heavyweight Insulated Down Jacket with hood: we primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 2
  • Insulated Pants: worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
  • Down Suit: worn when climbing above Camp 2

Headwear

  • Warm Hat: synthetic or wool hat (ski hat)
  • Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds
  • Baseball Cap or other sun hat: to shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
  • Bandana or Buff: to protect your neck/face from the sun

Eyewear 

  • Glacier Glasses: full protection with side covers or wrap around
  • Ski Goggles: to be worn on summit day in the event of high winds – (2nd pair optional)

Gloves

  • Lightweight Synthetic Base Layer Gloves: for wearing on a hot day
  • Soft Shell Gloves: to wear for moderate cold/wind
  • Shell Glove with Insulated Liner: to wear for severe cold/strong wind
  • Expedition Mitts: large enough to fit a liner glove inside
  • Heated Gloves (optional): Battery-powered heated gloves

Footwear

  • Liner Socks (3 pairs)
  • Wool or Synthetic Socks (6 pairs)
  • Heated Socks (optional)
  • Mountaineering boots
  • Hiking Boots/Shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp
  • Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp
  • Gaiters (optional)
  • Booties (optional)

Sleeping Equipment

  • Sleeping Bag (for high camps): rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
  • Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F
  • Self-inflating Sleeping Pads (2): full length is preferred, 1 for base camp and 1 for high camps
  • Closed-cell Foam Pad: to be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping
  • Earplugs

Mountaineering Gear

  • Expedition Backpack: approximately 65L
  • Compression Stuff Sacks: for reducing the volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack
  • Trash Compactor Bags: to line backpack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear
  • Backpack Rain Cover (optional)
  • Trekking Backpack: to carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
  • Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets: adjustable poles
  • Ice Axe: general mountaineering tool (65cm)
  • Crampons: general mountaineering crampons
  • Climbing Helmet: must be able to fit over your warm hat
  • Ascender: 1 right or left-hand ascender
  • “Y” Rig for ascender and safety carabiner
  • Accessory Cord: 30 feet (9m) of 6mm accessory cord
  • Alpine Climbing Harness: mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock-climbing “sport” harness
  • Carabineers: 3 regular and 3 locking
  • Belay/Rappel device
  • Headlamp: with 2 extra sets of new batteries

Travel Items

  • Large Duffel Bags with Locks (2): for transporting gear
  • Carry-on Backpack: can use trekking backpack, approximately 18” x 16” x 10” (46cm x 41cm x 26cm)
  • Travel Clothes: for days in cities and towns
  • Lightweight journal, sketchbook, pencils, pen
  • U.S. cash: for currency exchange to purchase SIM cards or merchandise in cities and villages

Additional Food Items

  • Snack Food: bring a few days’ supply of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc.
    variety of salty and sweet is good

Other Equipment

  • Cup: plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
  • Bowl: large plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
  • Spoon: plastic spoon (Lexan)
  • Water Bottles (2 or 3): wide mouth bottles with 1-liter capacity
  • Water Bottle Parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
  • Water Treatment (optional): UV-based or tablets
  • Thermos: 1 liter
  • Heated Insoles (optional): battery powered for your boots
  • Hand Warmers
  • Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
  • Lip Screen (2 sticks): SPF 30 or better
  • Toiletry Bag: include toilet paper and hand sanitizer
  • Pee bottle: 1-liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
  • Female Urination Device (FUD)
  • Knife or Multi-tool (optional)
  • Small Personal First-aid Kit: include athletic tape, band-aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, cough drops, etc.
  • Medications and Prescriptions: bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone
  • Handkerchiefs/Bandanas (optional)

Optional Electronics

  • Country-appropriate power plug adapters and power transformers
  • Avalanche Transceiver
  • Adventure Sports Watch: such as Garmin fēnix 6
  • GPS/Personal Satellite Communicator: such as Garmin inReach Mini
  • Personal Power System: such as Goal Zero Nomad 28 Plus Solar Panel and Sherpa 100AC Power Bank
  • Digital Entertainment: movies, tv shows, music, books loaded on to smartphone, iPad, Kindle
  • Camera: bring extra batteries, charger, and memory cards
  • Portable Travel Humidifier: battery powered

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in leading high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. We have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun! Safety is always our number one priority.

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are highly competent experts in our field and love what we do!

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