President / Founder / Expedition Leader
Garrett Madison, America’s premier Everest guide and Expedition Leader, began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier and has reached the top of Everest 13 times. As Expedition Leader, he has personally led 80+ climbers (clients) to the summit of Everest since 2009, more than any other guide. In 2011, Garrett led the first expedition in history where climbers succeeded in the Everest – Lhotse combination, reaching the summit of two 8000-meter peaks back to back in less than 24 hours. He has since repeated this ‘doubleheader’ combination in 2013, 2018, 2022 and 2023 and is currently the only climber in the world to have done so 5 times. Garrett holds the record for guiding climbers (12) in reaching the summits of two 8000-meter peaks within 24 hours.
In 2014, Garrett led the first successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world. He reached the summit with 2 clients and 3 Sherpas on July 27, 2014, again on July 22, 2018, with 8 clients, 3 guides and 15 Sherpas, and most recently on July 28, 2021, with a summit team of 21. Garrett also regularly guides many ‘7 Summits’ expeditions during the year such as Mount Vinson, Carstensz Pyramid, Mount Elbrus, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, etc., as well as first ascents of unclimbed peaks in the Himalayas. As a two time Emmy award-winning producer, Garrett is regularly consulted on Everest and other film productions, including Sports Illustrated’s Capturing Everest & NFL production’s Searching for the Summit.
Garrett holds multiple high-altitude mountaineering world records, such as being the only person to climb Mount Everest and nearby Mount Lhotse in a day, five times. He is the only American to climb K2 three times and has personally led more climbers (clients) to the summits of Mount Everest and K2 than anyone.
In addition to leading high-altitude expeditions worldwide throughout the year, Garrett consults on mountaineering equipment development and testing and is an athlete for Mountain Hardwear. Mountain Hardwear offers a selection of high-altitude expedition gear personally designed and endorsed by Garrett in the 8000 Meter Collection.
Garrett speaks professionally to organizations and teams about his mountaineering experiences, leadership, and managing risk. Some recent examples include Google, Microsoft, Amazon, Facebook, SAP, and many others. Garrett’s forthcoming book “High-Stakes Leadership: When Your Life And The Lives Of Others Hang In The Balance” is coming soon.
Significant Ascents & Expeditions
- Everest [world’s highest] (16 expeditions / 13 ascents)
K2 [2nd highest] (7 expeditions / 3 ascents)
Mt. Rainier (over 200 ascents)
Lhotse [4th highest] (5 ascents)
Nuptse (2 expeditions / 1 ascent)
Makalu [5th highest] (1 expedition)
Broad Peak (2 expeditions)
Cho Oyu [6th highest] (1 expedition)
Manaslu [8th highest] (1 expedition)
Aconcagua, Argentina (18 expeditions)
Denali, Alaska (3 expeditions)
Kilimanjaro, Africa (8 expeditions)
Mt. Elbrus, Russia (3 ascents)
Mt. Vinson, Antarctica (24 expeditions)
Carstensz Pyramid, Indonesia (2 ascents)
Dykh-Tau, Russia (1 ascent)
Ama Dablam, Nepal (6 expeditions)
Unclimbed Peak, Nepal (4 expeditions)
Island Peak, Nepal (1 ascent)
Mexico Volcanoes (6 expeditions)
Ecuador Volcanoes (6 expeditions)
Peru – Cordillera Blanca
Numerous climbs in Washington State (Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, Mt. Olympus, North Cascades, etc.)
Expedition Logistics coordinator for film/television production on Aconcagua (1x) and Mount Everest (6x)
Mountain guide & on camera talent for multiple productions & documentaries
Risk manager and high altitude medical support for expedition team
- Personal Climbs
- 6 ascents of Mont Blanc
1 ascent of the Matterhorn
1 attempt of Mount Tyree
- Wilderness First Responder
Level 2 Avalanche Forecasting for Guides
Leave No Trace Trainer
Sponsors & Partners
Leading more climbers than anyone to the top of the world over 16 expeditions to Mount Everest and counting, Garrett Madison has identified which techniques work, and more importantly, which techniques do not work, in scaling the world’s highest peak and achieving success. Garrett articulates his strategy for success and survival on Everest, touching on the following topics:
- Everest: Resilience in the face of Adversity
- Slide Show Lecture: “Climbing the World’s Highest Peaks: Everest, K2, Lhotse”
- Setting Your Own Goals & Pioneering new Achievements
- Formulas for Individual & Team Success
- How principles of extreme adventure also apply to demanding business environments
Garrett Madison has spoken to many large corporations and small groups. Drawing on his 25 years of professional climbing experience, having lead more climbers than anyone to the top of the world over 16 expeditions to Mount Everest, Garrett inspires teams to work together in achieving their goals and push themselves further than they ever thought possible. His topics include goal setting, leadership, teamwork, perseverance and risk management. Each of his programs includes a PowerPoint presentation featuring dramatic photos and video that illustrate the lessons learned from his many expeditions.
References for recent speaking engagements provided upon request.
Fee range: $15,00 – $20,000
For an exact quote, please contact us.