President / Founder / Expedition Leader
Garrett Madison, America’s premier Everest guide and climber, began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier. As Expedition Leader, he has personally led 60+ climbers (clients) to the summit of Everest since 2009, more than any other guide. In 2011, Garrett led the first expedition in history where climbers succeeded in the Everest – Lhotse combination, reaching the summit of two 8000-meter peaks back to back in less than 24 hours (while personally guiding one climber peak to peak in 21 hours). He has since repeated this ‘doubleheader’ combination in 2013 and 2018 and is currently the only climber in the world to have done so 3 times. Garrett holds the record for guiding climbers (5) in reaching the summits of two 8000-meter peaks within 24 hours.
In 2014, Garrett led the first successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world. He reached the summit with 2 clients and 3 Sherpas on July 27, 2014, and again on July 22, 2018, with 8 clients, 3 guides and 15 Sherpas reaching the top. Garrett also regularly guides many ‘7 Summits’ expeditions during the year such as Mount Vinson, Carstensz Pyramid, Mount Elbrus, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, etc., as well as first ascents of unclimbed peaks in the Himalayas. As an Emmy award-winning producer, Garrett is regularly consulted on Everest and other film productions, including Sports Illustrated’s Capturing Everest.
Garrett Madison holds multiple high-altitude mountaineering world records, such as being the only person to climb Mount Everest and nearby Mount Lhotse in a day, 3 times. He is the only American to climb K2 twice and has personally led more climbers (clients) to the summits of Mount Everest and K2 than anyone.
In addition to leading high-altitude expeditions worldwide throughout the year, Garrett consults on mountaineering equipment development and testing and is an athlete for Mountain Hardwear. Mountain Hardwear offers a selection of gear personally endorsed by Garrett in the Garrett Madison Collection. Garrett speaks professionally to groups both large and small about his mountaineering experiences, leadership, and managing risk. Garrett’s forthcoming book “High Stakes Leadership: When your life and the lives of others hang in the balance” will be available by Christmas of 2020.
Significant Ascents & Expeditions
- Everest [world’s highest] (13 expeditions / 10 ascents)
K2 [2nd highest] (5 expeditions / 2 ascents)
Mt. Rainier (over 200 ascents)
Lhotse [4th highest] (3 ascents)
Makalu [5th highest] (1 expedition)
Cho Oyu [6th highest] (1 expedition)
Manaslu [8th highest] (1 expedition)
Aconcagua, Argentina (15 expeditions)
Denali, Alaska (3 expeditions)
Kilimanjaro, Africa (8 expeditions)
Mt. Elbrus, Russia (2 ascents)
Mt. Vinson, Antarctica (19 expeditions)
Carstensz Pyramid, Indonesia (2 ascents)
Ama Dablam, Nepal (3 expeditions)
Unclimbed Peak, Nepal (3 expeditions)
Island Peak, Nepal (1 ascent)
Mexico Volcanoes (6 expeditions)
Ecuador Volcanoes (2 expedition)
Peru – Cordillera Blanca
Numerous climbs in Washington State (Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, Mt. Olympus, North Cascades, etc.)
Expedition Logistics coordinator for film/television production on Aconcagua (1x) and Mount Everest (5x)
Mountain guide & on camera talent for multiple productions & documentaries
Risk manager and high altitude medical support for expedition team
- Personal Climbs
- 6 ascents of Mont Blanc
1 ascent of the Matterhorn
1 attempt of Mt. Nuptse, Nepal (reached 7200 meters)
- Wilderness First Responder
Level 2 Avalanche Forecasting for Guides
Leave No Trace Trainer
Sponsors & Partners
Leading 13 expeditions to Mount Everest and having observed hundreds of climbers in challenging situations, Garrett Madison has identified which techniques work, and more importantly, which techniques do not work, in scaling the world’s highest peak. Garrett articulates his strategy for success and survival on Everest and touches on the following topics:
- How to lead a diverse group of individuals through challenging circumstances and achieve success
- The Everest & Lhotse combination climb, climbing two 8000m peaks in 24 hours
- How to mitigate risk on Everest and the high mountains
- Garrett’s recent successful climb of K2, the world’s second-highest peak
Garrett’s presentation will engage your audience like never before as he recounts real-life events that have shaped his strategy for success on Everest, with stunning video and photo content that will bring you directly to the mountain.
What a great presentation! Everyone was riveted during your talk! The images were outstanding and your message really resonated with everyone. Several people told me that this was the best dinner speaker ever. I think you inspired some future mountain climbers!
– Tom Balistreri, President MUHS Fathers Club