Nuptse, at 7,861m / 25,791 ft, is adjacent to Everest & Lhotse, and the true summit has only been reached by a handful of climbers. Here is some additional information:

In combination with Everest & Lhotse, climbing Nuptse is known as the ‘triple crown’. Garrett Madison first attempted Nuptse in 2011, alpine style after climbing Everest and Lhotse, making it very high, but did not reach the summit. This past season (2021) our team made a summit attempt on Nuptse at the end of our 2nd rotation in early May, from the Nuptse high camp a few hours above our Camp 2 on Everest. Our team reached the summit ridge and realized they were not at the true summit, further down the ridgeline. This season we plan to reach the true summit if possible (which only a few climbers have ever reached), as we believe we now know where we should veer off on our ascent of the North East Ridge to reach the true summit.

The Nuptse option provides additional acclimatization prior to our rest period leading up to our Everest & Lhotse climbs, and is best considered only by those ambitious in their climbing goals. The route is steep and unrelenting, similar to portions on the Ama Dablam and K2 climbing routes that we do in the fall / summer seasons.
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Nuptse North East Ridge

Date(s)
  • April 13 – May 13, 2023
Cost USD 44,500
Deposit USD 10,000

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu.

Day 2: Fly to Lukla and begin the trek to base camp (stay in Phakding)

Day 3: Trek to Namche

Day 4: Rest in Namche, visit Everest viewpoint, etc.

Day 5: Trek to Debuche

Day 6: Trek to Pheriche (visit Pangboche enroute)

Day 7: Rest in Pheriche, acclimatization hike

Day 8: Trek to Lobuche

Day 9: Trek to Gorak Shep, hike up Kala Pattar

Day 10: Trek to Everest base camp

Days 11-13: Acclimatize and review mountaineering technique (ladder practice, fixed lines, etc.) in base camp, Puja ceremony

Day 14: Trek to Lobuche

Day 15: Climb to Lobuche high camp

Day 16: Summit day on Lobuche East, return to Lobuche

Day 17: Return to Everest base camp

Days 18-19: Rest in base camp, review Khumbu icefall training

Day 20: Climb to Camp 1

Day 21: Rest in Camp 1

Day 22: Climb to Camp 2

Day 23: Rest in Camp 2

Day 24: Rest in Camp 2 (hike up west shoulder)

Day 25: Touch Camp 3, sleep in Camp 2

Day 26: Rest in Camp 2

Day 27: Climb to Nuptse high camp (3-4 hours moderate glacier walking)

Day 28: Nuptse summit attempt with supplemental oxygen and return to Camp 2

Day 29: Descend Camp 2 to Everest Base Camp

Day 30: Depart Everest Base Camp for Kathmandu (by helicopter or trekking)

Day 31: Fly Kathmandu to home country

Nuptse Expedition

  • April 13 – May 13, 2023
Cost: USD 44,500
Deposit: USD 10,000

Mount Everest and Nuptse Combination Climb

  • April 13 – May 13, 2023
Cost: USD 93,500
Deposit: USD 25,000

Costs include:

  • Airport pick up in Kathmandu
  • 3-night accommodations in Kathmandu at Hotel Yak & Yeti or similar – two nights before and one night after the trek and climb
  • Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
  • Lodging for all nights during the treks to and from base camp
  • Expedition tents during the climb
  • All food during the trek and climb – we provide high-quality food from the USA and Nepal, accommodating your specific dietary requirements
  • All transportation in Nepal, including a round-trip fixed-wing flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
  • All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, oxygen delivery system and oxygen cylinders, medical supplies, etc.
  • Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff, and American mountain guides
  • All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits

Costs do not include:

  • Bank and wire transfer fees (if applicable)
  • Round-trip airfare to Kathmandu, Nepal to join and depart the expedition
  • Optional one-way shared helicopter departure from Everest base camp to Kathmandu (approximately USD 2,000) – maximum of 2 duffel bags/person. Some climbers prefer to trek out in 3 days, while some prefer to fly out.
  • Meals in Kathmandu
  • Extra hotel nights after the trek and climb (once the climber has left the mountain). If we get delayed in Kathmandu, climbers are responsible for additional nights.
  • Personal gear for any standard 8000-meter peak expedition, clothing, and sleeping equipment (see gear list)
  • Wi-Fi Internet access while on the trek or at base camp (scratch card access codes available for approximately USD 50 per GB)
  • Satellite phone calls (limited use available at approximately USD 3 per minute)
  • Medical or evacuation costs
  • Medical evacuation insurance (REQUIRED)
  • Trip interruption/cancellation insurance (highly recommended)
  • Comprehensive medical exam – a physician signed Medical Certification is required
  • Alcoholic beverages / bottled or canned beverages / specialty coffee or espresso drinks
  • All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
  • Personal items
  • Personal purchases, for example, laundry services, souvenirs, gratuities for lodge staff, blessings, massages, etc.
  • Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering
  • Personal communication (phone, fax, email, etc.) between Nepal and home country
  • USD 1,500 summit bonus for each of your Climbing Sherpa(s)
  • Western guide(s) gratuities

Overall, a climber should budget a minimum of 10% of the total trip cost as gratuities for the expedition staff

Cancellation/Refund Policy:

  • There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without reaching or making progress towards expedition objective(s) (for example, the summit) due to route conditions, weather, insufficient workforce, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering
  • Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts towards reaching expedition objective(s) within our margin of safety
  • Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
  • No refunds for expedition services not used
  • Madison Mountaineering highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
  • Due to the nature and high costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
  • Deposit due with registration materials
  • All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
  • Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Print Gear List


Base Layers

  • Synthetic Short Underwear (2-3 pair): non-cotton style underwear
  • Lightweight Long Underwear (2-3 pair): long sleeve shirt and long pants
  • Heavyweight Long Underwear (1 pair)
  • Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt (1-2 pair)

Mid Layer

  • Soft Shell Jacket: to be worn over other layers
  • Soft Shell Pants: very breathable and water repellant
  • Lightweight Nylon Pants (1-2 pair)

Waterproof/Rain Layers

  • Hard Shell Jacket with hood: waterproof and breathable shell jacket
  • Hard Shell Pants: waterproof and breathable shell pants

Insulation Layers 

  • Heavyweight Insulated Down Jacket with hood: we primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 2
  • Insulated Pants: worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
  • Down Suit: worn when climbing above Camp 2

Headwear

  • Warm Hat: synthetic or wool hat (ski hat)
  • Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds
  • Baseball Cap or other sun hat: to shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
  • Bandana or Buff: to protect your neck/face from the sun
  • Vapro Airtrim Cold Air Breathing Mask – Sport (optional)

Eyewear 

  • Glacier Glasses: full protection with side covers or wrap around
  • Ski Goggles: to be worn on summit day in the event of high winds – (2nd pair optional)

Gloves

  • Lightweight Synthetic Base Layer Gloves: for wearing on a hot day
  • Soft Shell Gloves: to wear for moderate cold/wind
  • Shell Glove with Insulated Liner: to wear for severe cold/strong wind
  • Expedition Mitts: large enough to fit a liner glove inside
  • Heated Gloves (optional): Battery-powered heated gloves

Footwear

  • Liner Socks (3 pairs)
  • Wool or Synthetic Socks (6 pairs)
  • Heated Socks (optional)
  • Mountaineering boots
  • Hiking Boots/Shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp
  • Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp
  • Shower shoes/sandals (optional)
  • Lodge Slippers (optional): comfortable slippers for wearing about trekking lodges
  • Gaiters (optional)
  • Booties (optional)

Sleeping Equipment

  • Sleeping Bag (for high camps): rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
  • Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F
  • Self-inflating Sleeping Pad: full length is preferred
  • Closed-cell Foam Pad: to be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping
  • Earplugs

Mountaineering Gear

  • Expedition Backpack: approximately 75 – 105L
  • Compression Stuff Sacks: for reducing the volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack
  • Trash Compactor Bags: to line backpack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear
  • Backpack Rain Cover (optional)
  • Trekking Backpack: to carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
  • Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets: adjustable poles
  • Ice Axe: general mountaineering tool (65cm)
  • Crampons: general mountaineering crampons
  • Climbing Helmet: must be able to fit over your warm hat
  • Ascender: 1 right or left-hand ascender
  • “Y” Rig or Petzl for ascender and safety carabiner
  • Accessory Cord: 30 feet (9m) of 6mm accessory cord
  • Alpine Climbing Harness: mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock-climbing “sport” harness
  • Carabineers: 3 regular and 3 locking
  • Belay/Rappel device
  • Headlamps (2): bring a spare with 3 extra sets of new batteries
  • Pack Liner (2 pieces)

Travel Items

  • Large Duffel Bags with Locks (2): for transporting gear
  • Carry-on Backpack: can use trekking backpack, approximately 24” x 12” x 7” (60cm x 29cm x 17cm)
  • Travel Clothes: for days in cities and towns
  • Lightweight journal, sketchbook, pencils, pen
  • U.S. cash: for currency exchange to purchase Wi-Fi access scratchcards on the trek or in base camp and other random merchandise in cities and villages

Additional Food Items

  • Snack Food: bring around 5kg (~11 lbs) of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc.
    variety of salty and sweet is good

Other Equipment

  • Cup: plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
  • Bowl: large plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
  • Spoon: long-handled plastic spoon (Lexan)
  • Water Bottles (2 or 3): wide mouth bottles with 1-liter capacity
  • Water Bottle Parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
  • Water Treatment (optional): UV-based or tablets
  • Thermos: 1 liter
  • Heated Insoles (optional): battery powered for your boots
  • Hand Warmers
  • Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
  • Lip Screen (2 sticks): SPF 30 or better
  • Toiletry Bag: include toilet paper and hand sanitizer
  • Pee bottle: 1-liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
  • Female Urination Device (FUD)
  • Knife or Multi-tool (optional)
  • Small Personal First-aid Kit: include athletic tape, band-aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, cough drops, etc.
  • Foot Powder
  • Medications and Prescriptions: bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone, and sleep aids such as Ambien/zolpidem, melatonin, magnesium (calm powder)
  • Handkerchiefs/Bandanas (optional)

Optional Electronics

  • Country-appropriate power plug adapters and power transformers
  • Adventure Sports Watch: such as Garmin fēnix 6
  • GPS/Personal Satellite Communicator: such as Garmin inReach Mini
  • Personal Power System: such as Goal Zero Nomad 28 Plus Solar Panel and Sherpa 100AC Power Bank
  • Digital Entertainment: movies, tv shows, music, books loaded on to smartphone, iPad, Kindle
  • Camera: bring extra batteries, charger, and memory cards
  • Portable Travel Humidifier: battery powered

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in leading high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. We have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun! Safety is always our number one priority.

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are highly competent experts in our field and love what we do!

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