The Madison MountaineeringEverest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition team have arrived in Camp 1! The team moved smoothly through the Khumbu Icefall and looks forward to the coming days of acclimatization and time spent in the Western Cwm. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this brief dispatch from Camp 1:
Greetings from C1 (6050m/19,849ft). We had a nice climb up through the icefall today, everyone is doing well here.
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https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/20220421_MountEverest_R5_TerraySylvester_0040.jpg8001200Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2024-05-04 13:21:032024-05-04 16:38:45Through the icefall and into Camp 1
Onward and upward! Having rested up yesterday, the team got back to work today and climbed part way up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 (C3) where they are settled into their tents for the night. With good weather, they’ll continue on up the mountain tomorrow to their high camp at 7,900m / 25,919ft. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from C3:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison MountaineeringMount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. Today is May 21st, and today we climbed from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft). We left a little after 6:00 AM and had great weather today, sunny and clear all the way up to Camp 3. Then moved into our tents, had some lunch, relaxed… We had a little bit of snow in the afternoon, some clouds, but nice weather overall, hardly any wind.
The team’s doing great and we are really excited to climb up to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) tomorrow! Thank you for following along and we will check in soon.
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Following a full day yesterday, the team took a rest day today, enjoying good weather, food, and rest. The climbing has been smooth thus far and everyone is looking forward to the move up to Camp 3 tomorrow! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison MountaineeringEverest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. We are up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) and everyone is doing well!
Yesterday, we climbed up from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) through the Khumbu Icefall, across Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), and up to Camp 2 here. Everyone is great. We have really good weather, good route conditions and got into Camp 2 in the afternoon.
It’ll be a nice restful day, dinner, and good night’s sleep. So, today we’re just resting. Our Sherpa team is up now on the Lhotse Face at Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), setting up our tent platforms and getting things ready for us to move up to Camp 3 tomorrow. So the plan is move up to Camp 3 on the 21st and the weather looks good! It looks like some calm days ahead, so we are excited for the forecast and moving up the mountain to give Everest and Lhotse our best shot!
So, we’ll check in soon. All is well here on Mount Everest!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
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Good news from the 2023 Madison MountaineeringMount Everest and Lhotse expedition… The team has safely and successfully made it through the Khumbu Icefall and settled into their tents for the night at Camp 2! Good weather and route conditions made for smooth climbing through the icefall and into the Western Cwm. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checked in with this brief update from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:
We all made it up to camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), nice weather and good conditions!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
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With our “first wave” of climbers recuperating and enjoying the comforts of Namche Bazaar, our “second wave” of climbers is currently up at Camp 2 with plans to descend to Everest Base Camp tomorrow. They’ve had a very successful second rotation as they prepare for their summit push! A few members of our team will continue higher into the Himalaya as they make their summit attempt on Nuptse! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Namche Bazaar:
Today our “second wave” of Everest and Lhotse climbers were in Camp 2! They climbed part way up the Lhotse face toward Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), and then returned back down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) at the head of the Western Cwm. Tomorrow, they plan to descend back to base camp (5364m/17,598ft), and that will wrap up their acclimatization rotation. They’ve spent two nights at Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and three nights at Camp 2 as of tomorrow.
Meanwhile, our “first wave” of Everest–Lhotse climbers are down here in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We flew down here yesterday morning from base camp. It was a beautiful helicopter flight, and since then, we’ve been enjoying hot showers, eating good food and sucking up all the extra oxygen down here, which feels great! So, we’re just resting and biding our time, recuperating for our summit push which is still a little ways off. Right now we’re waiting for high winds to ease on the upper mountain so that our Sherpa team can carry oxygen and other supplies up as high as the South Col (7900m/25,919ft), and then we’ll start looking for a summit window.
Our Nuptse climbers moved up to high camp at the foot of the route this afternoon. They’re currently resting in high camp and preparing for a summit attempt that will start late tonight. Most of the route is fixed, and if the weather permits, then our climbers and our rope-fixing team will complete the route to the summit tomorrow morning.
So, lots of things going on here in Nepal, but all is well and we will be in touch tomorrow!
Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Climbing out of Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Climber, Erwin Visser crossing a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Our “first wave” of climbers descending through the icefall back to EBC. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
The Madison Mountaineering “second wave” of climbers is busy at Camp 2 acclimatizing, and for some, looking ahead to an ascent on Nuptse! The team has had great weather today, a restful afternoon and evening, and is in high spirits as they look forward to the days ahead. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from Camp 2:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison MountaineeringMount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition. Today is May 5th and I’m with the “second wave” with guide, Cacho Beiza and climbers, Eva, Krisli, Danah and Rich, Mark and Steve!
We had a great day starting out from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft)where we spent the last two nights, and some of our team that was just up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) finishing their rotation is coming down. They were heading to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) today for a good rest!
We climbed up to Camp 2, settled in, and had a nice afternoon and a restful evening, good dinner and just said goodbye to some of our team that were heading up to do a carry to the South Col this evening. They’re planning to climb all through the night and deposit a load of oxygen at Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft), back tomorrow.
For Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), our rope fixing team is hard at work right now! Today they were able to fix up the ice arête on the Nuptse route, under the rock band, which is good news! They’ll have another good day tomorrow.
All is well up here at Camp 2 on Mount Everest! We’ll check in soon.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
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After several days and nights spent above the Khumbu Icefall in the Western Cwm, the Madison Mountaineering team’s second acclimatization rotation is coming to a close! With a few days of rest and relaxation ahead, the team can start to look forward to their summit push. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:
This morning our first wave of Everest and Lhotse climbers wrapped up their second acclimatization foray on the mountain. They spent three nights at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), climbed up toward the Lhotse face one day, and then this morning we returned back down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). It was absolutely beautiful weather for that descent and we had great conditions as we descended through the Khumbu Icefall, which is in really excellent shape this year!
Meanwhile, the second wave of our Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers are at Camp 2. They moved from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) to Camp 2 today, they’ll spend several nights there acclimatizing, and then descend back to base camp. If weather and route conditions allow, then some of those climbers will head up to Nuptse as well!
So, all is well here in base camp! Tomorrow, our first wave of climbers will start their drop back in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We’ll fly down the valley via helicopter to rest and relax, and prepare for our summit push. We’ll be in touch!
Morning light on Pumori as the “first wave” moved to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Climber, Rick Irvine, in the Khumbu Icefall on the way to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Morning light on Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Climber, Peter Horsman, and the “first wave” team descending out of the Western Cwm toward base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/PHOTO-2023-05-05-06-08-12.jpg10661600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2023-05-05 11:53:212023-05-05 15:15:25Wrapping up the second rotation!
With the bulk of our collective team all in the Khumbu region, the teams are well on their way towards the objectives forthcoming! Our first wave of climbers have had great climbing conditions so far, as they navigated their way through the complex terrain of the Khumbu Icefall and are now spending time acclimatizing in the Western Cwm. After a few days of technical training in Everest Base Camp, our second wave of climbers is on their way to start their first rotation on Lobuche! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this update from Nepal:
Today our first wave of climbers here in Nepal moved from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). They plan to spend two nights at Camp 2, and then return to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). That will complete their first acclimatization rotation! The’ve had great conditions so far. They had particularly good climbing conditions two days ago when the moved to Camp 1 up through the Khumbu Icefall. They were essentially the only team in the icefall that night, which made for really pleasant, smooth climbing without any lines!
Meanwhile, our second wave of climbers just left base camp. They hiked down to the village of Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) today, and tomorrow they’ll move up to the Lobuche high camp, and then hopefully summit Lobuche peak (6119m/20,075ft) the following day. They spent the last two days practicing their technical skills here on the ice towers next to base camp.
So, all is well here in Nepal and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!
The “second wave” about to depart for Lobuche! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Lhotse climber, Karl Yoder, near the top of the Khumbu Icefall! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Our team in the Western Cwm! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Our “second wave” of climbers training near base camp!
Technical training near base camp!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/PHOTO-2023-04-24-04-53-49.jpg10661600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2023-04-24 11:52:062023-04-24 15:54:10Progress in Nepal!
The first rotation is complete with our Everest team returning to base camp this afternoon! Everest guide Terray Sylvester has this recap of the first rotation and the plan for the next few days:
Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition. It’s April 24nd.
We just returned to base camp this afternoon from our first acclimatization rotation higher on the mountain. We spent two nights in Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and two nights in Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) before coming back down to base (5310m/17,421ft). We had beautiful weather throughout. We were among one of the only teams in Camp 1 and Camp 2, so it was really nice having the mountain a little bit to ourselves.
We’re just settling back-in in base camp, had dinner of pork chops and pumpkin pie. We’re gonna watch the latest James Bond film (“No Time to Die“).
Then we’ve got a few days of rest, showers, and relaxation in our future! We’ll be in touch!
Climber Carter Beck crossing a ladder in the icefall
Climbing out of the Khumbu Icefall into the Western Cwm
The team above Camp 2 on our active rest day
Descending through the Khumbu Icefall back to base camp
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“
Today, our Everest team moved up from Camp 1 to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm. Expedition leader Garrett Madison called in via sat phone with today’s expedition dispatch:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition 2022. Today is April 22nd.
Today our team climbed from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) on Mount Everest, our advanced base camp (ABC). We got here in the afternoon, settled in, had lunch, just finished up dinner, and heading to bed now. The weather’s been great. Everyone’s doing really well and we’re looking forward to a good day tomorrow when we will do another acclimatization hike up above Camp 2 here.
We’re happy to be here! There are not many other teams here – I think we’re the only team that’s up at Camp 2 at the moment. Some of the other teams will be on the way soon. But, it’s nice to be up here at 21,300ft (6492m) on Mount Everest!
We’ll check in soon. Thanks!
(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“
