Duration
42 Days
Location
Nepal, Asia
Duration
42 Days
Location
Nepal, Asia
Duration
42 Days
Location
Nepal, Asia
Duration
42 Days
Location
Nepal, Asia
Duration
42 Days
Location
Nepal, Asia
You might also want to consider these similar expeditions: Our Expedition Leader: As Expedition Leader and Guide for 13 years running on Mount Everest, Garrett Madison has overseen all aspects for his teams related to planning, organization, and climbing on Mount Everest. As one of the best known “Expedition Leaders” on Mount Everest with the highest success and safety record in recent years, Garrett has personally accompanied over 70 climbers (clients) up Mount Everest to the summit since 2009 (as well as many co guides and climbing Sherpas), more than any other guide or Expedition Leader. Garrett is known for ‘climber care,’ making the well-being of his clients his number one priority, this is perhaps the most important differentiating factor in our expeditions compared to the others on Mount Everest. Garrett has recently climbed Mount Lhotse (4th highest mountain) three times, in guiding climbers on the “peak to peak” combination where members climb Mount Lhotse the day after reaching the top of Mount Everest. Garrett has been part of many “firsts” on Everest, such as the 2016 first ascent by an American with a prosthetic leg; however, his proudest accomplishment is a 100% safety record for clients under his watch while climbing the peak.
Our Everest Guides: After his 14th expedition to Mount Everest (the last ten years as ‘Expedition Leader’), Garrett Madison has reached the top 12 times. Garrett has personally guided more climbers (70+) over the last ten years than any other mountain guide or Expedition Leader. Our Everest guide team includes very experienced mountain guides with multiple Everest summits such as Brent Bishop, Conan Bliss, Billy Nugent, Stuart Robertson, Geoff Schellens, Fred Alldredge, Kenton Cool, and Sid Pattison, some of the most experienced and capable Everest guides on the mountain. This vast amount of organizational and logistical expertise, combined with a commitment to provide the best possible services to ensure safety and success, make Madison Mountaineering the premier boutique guiding company on Mount Everest. Climbers will have an unparalleled opportunity for safely climbing to the summit and returning to base camp, as well as climbing Lhotse if desired. Enjoying the experience is a high priority, and our climbers can attest to having a great time throughout! (Please contact us for past Everest climber testimonials)
Our teams are different than the large scale operations where climbers are locked into specific dates for rotations and summit attempts and maybe one of many people sitting down to eat in the dining tent, dealing with illness spreading throughout the group. Often these sprawling groups have only a leader who remains in base camp and coaches members over the radio, with our team your leader climbs with you to the summit and back, often making the crucial ‘mission critical’ decisions on the spot, this is a big part of our high level of success and safety. By keeping our team small yet highly supported, we don’t compromise our standards in providing the best strategy, flexibility, and resources needed to succeed in the dynamic environment that is Everest. The equation for success and safety involves variables that can and often rapidly change such as: mountain weather (wind speed, precipitation, temperature), climber acclimatization and health, climbing route (the route often varies daily through the Khumbu Icefall), other climbers and teams (climbers needing assistance, evacuation, as well as periodic overcrowding on the route).
We can quickly adjust to changing conditions better than any other team. We have the best communication systems available to monitor the weather (along with a few dedicated meteorologists), to communicate with other teams on the mountain to collaborate on the route, weather, rescues, and summit schedule. We have an experienced base camp manager, a menu plan developed by a certified nutritionist, and a helicopter available that can evacuate an injured or ill climber if necessary from as high as Camp 3. Our Sherpas are among the finest and most respected on the mountain, as evidenced by our Sherpas, who took part in fixing the ropes to the summit on May 15th, 2017, on May 14, 2018, and May 15th, 2019. Our team oversaw the 'rope fixing' project on Mount Everest for the last two years. We are a team that works together to accomplish our shared goals of safety, success, and having fun. If you would like to know more, we invite you to contact us!
Mount Everest is a harsh environment. We take pride in creating a team that can not only reach the top but can also get down safely, and survive. We are one of the few teams that have the ability to support climbers in distress who are high on Everest, commonly called the ‘death zone’ which is above 8000 meters. In both 2016 and 2017, our team provided medical support at Camp 4, the South Col, and contributed to the ultimate survival of other climbers.
- Itinerary
- Dates and Costs
- Gear List
- Why Madison Mountaineering?
Everest/Lhotse Combo Itinerary: Climb Mount Everest and Lhotse in 41 days
Please contact us to learn about our finely tuned acclimatization and climbing strategy as it relates to our Mount Everest and Lhotse Combination Expedition.
Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu
Day 02: Fly to Lukla and begin the trek to base camp (stay in Phakding)
Day 03: Trek to Namche
Days 04: Rest in Namche, Everest View Point, etc.
Day 05: Trek to Debuche
Day 06: Trek to Pheriche (visit Pangboche enroute)
Day 07: Rest in Pheriche, acclimatization hike
Day 08: Trek to Lobuche
Day 09: Trek to Gorak Shep, hike up Kala Pattar
Day 10: Trek to base camp
Days 11-13: Acclimatize and review mountaineering technique (ladder practice, fixed lines, etc.) in base camp, Puja ceremony
Day 14: Trek to Lobuche
Day 15: Climb to Lobuche high camp
Day 16: Summit day on Lobuche East, return to Lobuche
Day 17: Return to Everest base camp
Day 18-19: Rest in base camp, review Khumbu icefall training
Day 20: Climb to Camp 1
Day 21: Rest in Camp 1
Day 22: Climb to Camp 2
Day 23: Rest in Camp 2 (hike up west shoulder)
Day 24: Touch Camp 3, sleep in Camp 2
Day 25: Descend to base camp
Days 26-31: Descend and rest in Debuche or Namche, evaluate weather conditions for summit rotation
Day 32: Begin summit push. Climb from base camp to Camp 2
Day 33: Rest in Camp 2
Day 34: Climb to Camp 3 (use O2)
Day 35: Climb to Camp 4 (use O2)
Day 36: Rest in Camp 4 (use O2)
Day 37: Everest Summit attempt. We make an alpine start for our summit attempt (use O2) and return to Camp 4
Day 38: Lhotse summit attempt. After resting at Camp 4, we make an alpine start and begin our climbing (use O2) up the Lhotse couloir to the summit and then descend to Camp 2
Day 39: Descend to base camp
Days 40: Begin trek to Lukla or fly from base camp to Lukla – Kathmandu
Day 41: Depart for home
Days 42-49: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc. (contingency)
Actual schedules subject to change due to route conditions, weather, and climber health
Mount Everest and Lhotse Combination Climb
- April 13 – May 25, 2024
Deposit: USD 25,000
Costs include:
- Airport pick up in Kathmandu
- 3-night accommodations in Kathmandu at Hotel Yak & Yeti or similar – two nights before and one night after the trek and climb
- Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
- Lodging for all nights during the treks to and from base camp
- Expedition tents during the climb
- All food during the trek and climb – we provide high-quality food from the USA and Nepal, accommodating your specific dietary requirements
- All transportation in Nepal, including a round-trip fixed-wing flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
- All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, oxygen delivery system and oxygen cylinders, medical supplies, etc.
- Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff, and American mountain guides
- All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits
Costs do not include:
- Bank and wire transfer fees (if applicable)
- Round-trip airfare to Kathmandu, Nepal to join and depart the expedition
- Optional one-way shared helicopter departure from Everest base camp to Kathmandu (approximately USD 2,000) – maximum of 2 duffel bags/person. Some climbers prefer to trek out in 3 days, while some prefer to fly out.
- Meals in Kathmandu
- Extra hotel nights after the trek and climb (once the climber has left the mountain). If we get delayed in Kathmandu, climbers are responsible for additional nights.
- Personal gear for any standard 8000-meter peak expedition, clothing, and sleeping equipment (see gear list)
- Wi-Fi Internet access while on the trek or at base camp (scratch card access codes available for approximately USD 50 per GB)
- Satellite phone calls (limited use available at approximately USD 3 per minute)
- Medical or evacuation costs
- Medical evacuation insurance (REQUIRED)
- Trip interruption/cancellation insurance (highly recommended)
- Comprehensive medical exam – a physician signed Medical Certification is required
- Alcoholic beverages / bottled or canned beverages / specialty coffee or espresso drinks
- All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
- Personal items
- Personal purchases, for example, laundry services, souvenirs, gratuities for lodge staff, blessings, massages, etc.
- Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering
- Personal communication (phone, fax, email, etc.) between Nepal and home country
- USD 1,500 summit bonus for each of your Climbing Sherpa(s)
- Western guide(s) gratuities
Overall, a climber should budget a minimum of 10% of the total trip cost as gratuities for the expedition staff
Cancellation/Refund Policy:
- There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without reaching or making progress towards expedition objective(s) (for example, the summit) due to route conditions, weather, insufficient workforce, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering
- Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts towards reaching expedition objective(s) within our margin of safety
- Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
- No refunds for expedition services not used
- Madison Mountaineering highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
- Due to the nature and high costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
- Deposit due with registration materials
- All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
- Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition
Note: Madison Mountaineering reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.
Base Layers
- Synthetic Short Underwear (2-3 pair): non-cotton style underwear
- Lightweight Long Underwear (2-3 pair): long sleeve shirt and long pants
- Heavyweight Long Underwear (1 pair)
- Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt (1-2 pair)
Mid Layer
- Soft Shell Jacket: to be worn over other layers
- Soft Shell Pants: very breathable and water repellant
- Lightweight Nylon Pants (1-2 pair)
Waterproof/Rain Layers
- Hard Shell Jacket with hood: waterproof and breathable shell jacket
- Hard Shell Pants: waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulation Layers
- Heavyweight Insulated Down Jacket with hood: we primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 2
- Insulated Pants: worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
- Down Suit: worn when climbing above Camp 2
Headwear
- Warm Hat: synthetic or wool hat (ski hat)
- Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds
- Baseball Cap or other sun hat: to shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
- Bandana or Buff: to protect your neck/face from the sun
- Vapro Airtrim Cold Air Breathing Mask – Sport (optional)
Eyewear
- Glacier Glasses: full protection with side covers or wrap around
- Ski Goggles: to be worn on summit day in the event of high winds – (2nd pair optional)
Gloves
- Lightweight Synthetic Base Layer Gloves: for wearing on a hot day
- Soft Shell Gloves: to wear for moderate cold/wind
- Shell Glove with Insulated Liner: to wear for severe cold/strong wind
- Expedition Mitts: large enough to fit a liner glove inside
- Heated Gloves (optional): Battery-powered heated gloves
Footwear
- Liner Socks (3 pairs)
- Wool or Synthetic Socks (6 pairs)
- Heated Socks (optional)
- Mountaineering boots
- Hiking Boots/Shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp
- Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp
- Shower shoes/sandals (optional)
- Lodge Slippers (optional): comfortable slippers for wearing about trekking lodges
- Gaiters (optional)
- Booties (optional)
Sleeping Equipment
- Sleeping Bag (for high camps): rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
- Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F
- Self-inflating Sleeping Pad: full length is preferred
- Closed-cell Foam Pad: to be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping
- Earplugs
Mountaineering Gear
- Expedition Backpack: approximately 75 – 105L
- Compression Stuff Sacks: for reducing the volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack
- Trash Compactor Bags: to line backpack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear
- Backpack Rain Cover (optional)
- Trekking Backpack: to carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
- Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets: adjustable poles
- Ice Axe: general mountaineering tool (65cm)
- Crampons: general mountaineering crampons
- Climbing Helmet: must be able to fit over your warm hat
- Ascender: 1 right or left-hand ascender
- “Y” Rig or Petzl for ascender and safety carabiner
- Accessory Cord: 30 feet (9m) of 6mm accessory cord
- Alpine Climbing Harness: mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock-climbing “sport” harness
- Carabineers: 3 regular and 3 locking
- Belay/Rappel device
- Headlamps (2): bring a spare with 3 extra sets of new batteries
Travel Items
- Large Duffel Bags with Locks (2): for transporting gear
- Carry-on Backpack: can use trekking backpack, approximately 24” x 12” x 7” (60cm x 29cm x 17cm)
- Travel Clothes: for days in cities and towns
- Lightweight journal, sketchbook, pencils, pen
- U.S. cash: for currency exchange to purchase Wi-Fi access scratchcards on the trek or in base camp and other random merchandise in cities and villages
Additional Food Items
- Snack Food: bring around 5kg (~11 lbs) of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc.
variety of salty and sweet is good
Other Equipment
- Cup: plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
- Bowl: large plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
- Spoon: long-handled plastic spoon (Lexan)
- Water Bottles (2 or 3): wide mouth bottles with 1-liter capacity
- Water Bottle Parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
- Water Treatment (optional): UV-based or tablets
- Thermos: 1 liter
- Heated Insoles (optional): battery powered for your boots
- Hand Warmers
- Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
- Lip Screen (2 sticks): SPF 30 or better
- Toiletry Bag: include toilet paper and hand sanitizer
- Pee bottle: 1-liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
- Female Urination Device (FUD)
- Knife or Multi-tool (optional)
- Small Personal First-aid Kit: include athletic tape, band-aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, cough drops, etc.
- Foot Powder
- Medications and Prescriptions: bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone, and sleep aids such as Ambien/zolpidem, melatonin, magnesium (calm powder)
- Handkerchiefs/Bandanas (optional)
Optional Electronics
- Country-appropriate power plug adapters and power transformers
- Adventure Sports Watch: such as Garmin fēnix 6
- GPS/Personal Satellite Communicator: such as Garmin inReach Mini
- Personal Power System: such as Goal Zero Nomad 28 Plus Solar Panel and Sherpa 100AC Power Bank
- Digital Entertainment: movies, tv shows, music, books loaded on to smartphone, iPad, Kindle
- Camera: bring extra batteries, charger, and memory cards
- Portable Travel Humidifier: battery powered
Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in leading high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. We have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun! Safety is always our number one priority.
Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.
Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are highly competent experts in our field and love what we do!
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