Tag Archive for: Nepal

The Preparation Continues!

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, demonstrating technical skills during today's training session. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Another day in base camp and another day training for the climbs ahead! While our second wave of climbers trek further up the valley on the way to Everest Base Camp (EBC), our team who has settled into EBC spent another morning training on the technical skills necessary for their climbs on Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this dispatch from EBC:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 16.

Today our team in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) spent another morning reviewing technical skills, ascending and descending fixed lines, as we prepare to move up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). Meanwhile, our second wave of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers are in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft)! They had an active rest day today and enjoyed all that Namche has to offer: good food, hot showers. They’ll continue on their way up the Khumbu Valley tomorrow.

All is well here in base camp! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Climber, Bruce Smith, practicing ascending fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Bruce Smith, practicing ascending fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Debbie Bulten, rappelling down a Khumbu Glacier ice formation. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Debbie Bulten, rappelling down a Khumbu Glacier ice formation. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, rappelling during skills training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, rappelling during skills training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Technical Training in Base Camp

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, monitoring the training. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The team has been hard at work in Everest Base Camp (EBC) doing technical training in the neighboring Khumbu Glacier! With our second team arriving in EBC shortly, climbers will continue their training and acclimatization before making their first rotations. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this dispatch from EBC:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – it’s April 15th.

Today our team here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) went out into the ice formations of the Khumbu Glacier next to base camp to begin practicing technical skills, ascending and descending on fixed lines. We’ll spend at least a few more days practicing technical skills before we start moving up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). And then, in the evening we had a great dinner of cashew curried chicken, fresh vegetables, and then we watched We’re the Millers afterward for our movie.

Meanwhile, our second team of climbers is in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft), making their way up the Khumbu Valley to base camp!

So, it was another great day here at the foot of Mount Everest and we’re looking forward to another good day tomorrow! We’ll be in touch.

Climbers, Debbie and Erwin navigating through the Khumbu Glacier during training! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Debbie and Erwin navigating through the Khumbu Glacier during training! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Serge Larouche, practicing traversing on steep ice. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Serge Larouche, practicing traversing on steep ice. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Erwin Visser, practicing crampon and fixed line descent skills. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Erwin Visser, practicing crampon and fixed line descent skills. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Pieter Swart, navigating an icy canyon near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Pieter Swart, navigating an icy canyon near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our second wave of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers making their way up the Khumbu Valley! (Photo: Cacho Beiza)

Our second wave of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers making their way up the Khumbu Valley! (Photo: Cacho Beiza)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Hello from Everest Base Camp!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

After over a week on the trail trekking up through the Khumbu Valley, the team has arrived in Everest Base Camp (EBC)! After a warm welcome from the team of base camp staff and Sherpas, the team took a tour of their home for the next few months, and settled in to their tents – some also treating themselves to a hot shower! With dinner and a movie scheduled for the evening, the team is in good spirits and excited to be one step closer to their objectives. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with todays dispatch from EBC:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 13.

This morning we walked from Gorakshep (5164m/16,942ft) to base camp (5364m/17,598ft)! We arrived in base camp at about noon to a warm welcome from our staff who have been working hard here over the past month, or a little more, to make base camp the wonderful place it is. (We) did a little base camp tour when we arrived, and then  our climbers moved into their tents. We had a nice lunch of sandwiches, and fresh salad, and soup. Our climbers have been relaxing since then and some of them have gotten a hot shower, which always feels good after the trek up here to base camp!

So, tonight we’re looking forward to a good dinner and then the first of our movie nights, which will happen every night here in base camp with our projector, and screen, and surround sound system!

All in all, it was a great day! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Climber, Rick Irvine receiving a warm welcome to base camp from sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine receiving a warm welcome to base camp from sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering dining tent beside the ice pinnacles of the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering dining tent beside the ice pinnacles of the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Some of our climbers' personal tents. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Some of our climbers’ personal tents. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our rockstar Nepali staff, including our very strong Sherpa team and base camp staff! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our rockstar Nepali staff, including our very strong Sherpa team and base camp staff! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Everest Base Camp Awaits!

The team on top of Kala Patthar, with Pumori in the background! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

After one final acclimatization hike to the top of Kala Patthar, the team is eager to arrive in base camp tomorrow! Today presented more incredible views of Everest Base Camp and the surrounding sights, giving the team a preview of what’s to come. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with todays dispatch from Gorakshep:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition. Today is April 12th!

Today we moved from Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) to Gorakshep (5164m/16,942ft), and then we hiked up Kala Patthar (5644m/18,519ft) to just about 5,500 meters. From there we had our first really good views of the summit of Everest plus Nuptse, and just a little corner of Lhotse peaking out in the distance. Beautiful day today, yet again – clear skies and pleasant temperatures!

We’re going to spend a night here in Gorakshep, and then tomorrow we’ll head over to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) and finally move into our tents there. So, that’s exciting! (We) can’t wait to get into camp at the foot of Everest.

The team is doing well and we’re looking forward to tomorrow! We’ll be in touch then.

Mount Everest (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Mount Everest (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The team ascending Kala Patthar! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The team ascending Kala Patthar! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Nearing the top of Kala Patthar! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Nearing the top of Kala Patthar! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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First Views of EBC!

Passing Cholatse en route to Lobuche. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The team has arrived in Lobuche! After this morning’s walk from Pheriche where they’d spent the last few days, the team settled into their rooms at their next stop before continuing on towards Everest Base Camp (EBC). Fueled by treats from “the highest bakery in the world” the team hiked up a moraine bordering the Khumbu Glacier, which revealed the team’s first views of EBC. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this dispatch from Lobuche:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 11th.

This morning we walked from Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft) to Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft)! Along the way we stopped and had a nice brunch in Dukla, and then in the afternoon we visited the bakery here in Lobuche, which advertises itself as the highest bakery in the world at over 5,000 meters! We hiked up on the lateral moraine next to the Khumbu Glacier and got our first view of Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft), plus great views of Pumori (7161m/23,494ft), Lingtren (6749m/22,142ft), Nuptse and Changtse (7543m/24,747ft) out on the Chinese border.

So, tomorrow we’ll continue to Gorakshep (5164m/16,942ft) and up to Kala Patthar (5644m/18,519ft) where we’ll get more great views of Everest and base camp!

All is well here in Nepal! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Climber, Erwin Visser, and expedition leader, Garrett Madison, leaving Pheriche. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Erwin Visser, and expedition leader, Garrett Madison, leaving Pheriche. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Pieter Swart, sightseeing on a lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Pieter Swart, sightseeing on a lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Peter Horsman, and expedition leader, Garrett Madison, taking in the view near Lobuche! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Peter Horsman, and expedition leader, Garrett Madison, taking in the view near Lobuche! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Prayer Flag Point

The team at Prayer Flag Point on today's acclimatization hike! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The team continued their acclimatization efforts today, touching over 16,000 feet at Prayer Flag Point above Pheriche! After taking in more spectacular views, everyone was excited to descend, knowing the treat that lied ahead – pastries and coffee at the famous Dingboche Bakery! The treats fueled the teams bodies to get them back to Pheriche, where they enjoyed dinner and alpenglow on the surrounding peaks, towering above the village. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 10th.

Today we hiked above Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft) up to prayer flag point, at a little over 16,000 feet, above 5,000 meters. It was a beautiful day! The clear weather has continued, so we had great views of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) and Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) in the distance, and just a little corner of Cho Oyu (8188m/26,864ft). Then we came back down and relaxed in the bakery at Dingboche (4410m/14,470ft) before walking back to Pheriche.

It’s a beautiful evening right now! We’re watching alpenglow on the peaks around Pheriche. Tomorrow, we’re looking forward to moving up to Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft).

We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Alpenglow on Ama Dablam. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Alpenglow on Ama Dablam. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Blessings in Pangboche!

Amazing views while approaching Pheriche! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

After a short ceremony where the team received blessings for safe passage while venturing in the mountains on their expedition, we continued onward to the village of Pheriche! Everyone is in high spirits and enjoying the blue-bird skies they’ve had thus far while trekking further up the Khumbu Valley. Tomorrow holds more time for acclimatization, as the journey continues onward towards Everest base camp. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Nepal:

Hello, this is Terray calling in for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition! It’s April 9th.

Today we started the day with blessings at the monastery in Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft). The blessing is intended to secure us safe passage as we climb in the mountains here in Nepal. It’s really a nice event during the trek to Everest base camp (5364m/17,598ft). Then we continued on up to Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft) with a stop for lunch in Shomare (4010m/13,156 feet). The weather was great today again – a few clouds are coming into Pheriche now, but otherwise we’ve had great views of Thamserku (6608m/21,680 ft), Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft), Taboche (6495m/21,309ft), Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse.

So now we’re just resting in Pheriche! Tomorrow we’ll probably go for an acclimatization hike high above Pheriche and Dingboche (4410m/14,470ft), and then enjoy some coffee and great baked goods in the bakery over at Dingboche.

So, all is well here in Nepal! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Blessing with Lama Ngawang Paljur in Pangboche. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Blessing with Lama Ngawang Paljur in Pangboche. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Unclimbed Peak Expedition Wrap Up!

Summit photo after a historic first ascent!

The Madison Mountaineering unclimbed peak expedition has come to its conclusion with our team departing back to their homes, excitedly knowing that their attempt at this historic first ascent proved to be successful! Congratulations to the entire team, and a big thanks to our amazing sherpa team – this effort would not be possible without them. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this recap of making the first ascent of this previously unclimbed peak:

Our Unclimbed peak expedition was a huge success! Going into one of these unknown areas to climb a peak never before attempted by anyone always raises the level of uncertainty we face. It takes a ‘can do’ attitude and the necessary experience to arrive, work through the process in figuring out the route, etc.

There is always some luck involved, we were very fortunate to have decent weather, and a crack Sherpa team that was integral to our success.

Having climbed Ama Dablam just before allowed us to acclimatize and ready ourselves for this project. We had a certain amount of ‘mountain fitness’ which was key.

Utilizing a helicopter allowed us to go directly from Ama Dablam base camp to the base of the peak. From there we established one high camp, although we had to wait a couple of days while it snowed heavily.

Once the skies cleared, we got underway and made good progress, then started our summit day early on the 14th of November leaving base camp at 2:30 AM. About 12 hours later we stood on the summit. It was a glorious day and the achievement was a sweet one, especially given the camaraderie and spirit of teamwork that made it all possible thanks to our amazing Sherpa team.

We look forward to another ‘Unclimbed Peak’ expedition next year!

In exploration,

Garrett Madison

Our 'first ascent' line up the peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Our ‘first ascent’ line up the peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

The peak rising out of the clouds. Photo: Ted Hesser

The peak rising out of the clouds. Photo: Ted Hesser

The team at the summit of the previously unclimbed peak! Photo: Ted Hesser

The team at the summit of the previously unclimbed peak! Photo: Ted Hesser

Celebrating back in Kathmandu!

Celebrating back in Kathmandu!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Success on the Unclimbed Peak!

The Madison Mountaineering expedition team is back in base camp and returning to Lukla today after a safe and successful expedition on the Unclimbed Peak! More details to come of their historic ascent… Here’s a brief message from expedition leader, Garrett Madison:

Just back in base camp from a successful climb of the unclimbed / unnamed peak. Flying out tomorrow morning to Lukla – Kathmandu.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ama Dablam Expedition Conclusion

Departing base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our 2022 Ama Dablam expedition has come to its conclusion! 17 total members of the Madison Mountaineering team reached the summit of Ama Dablam, and are making their journeys home. Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, and a few of our climbers and sherpa team will continue their journey towards an unclimbed peak in the Himalaya, heading into the unknown for a chance at a first ascent! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with one final dispatch from the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – it’s  Friday, November 11th.

Our expedition has wrapped up! Our clients have departed from Ama Dablam base camp (4600m/15,100ft) – some of them decided to helicopter directly from base camp to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft). So, they arrived here in the capitol of Nepal a couple of days ago. Two of our clients decided to enjoy a pleasant hike down the Khumbu Valley. Those guests flew from Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) via fixed wing to Kathmandu yesterday.

So, we had one last celebratory dinner here in Kathmandu last night and people are starting to take their flights home.

All in all, we had a very successful expedition! 17 total members of our team reached the summit of Ama Dablam – that was eight of our climbers, plus two guides and seven members of our sherpa team. We had absolutely excellent weather and route conditions for that climb!

So from here, Garrett and two of our climbers from Ama Dablam as well as members of our sherpa team are turning their attention to an unclimbed peak (~6000m/20,000ft) here in the Nepal, Himalaya. If you’d like to stay up to date on how that climb is progressing, please just keep an eye on the dispatches here on the website! We’ll be in touch.

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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