Tag Archive for: Khumbu

Making Progress!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse expedition teams are making good progress towards their different objectives! While the sun shined on the Lhotse Face as the team ascended to Camp 3, our Sherpa team was able to be seen over the “valley of silence” fixing the route up the Nuptse Face! Madison Mountaineering climber, Casey Diener checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:

This is Casey Diener calling in from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) with Madison Mountaineering! I’m just a climber on the team here.

We had a good acclimatization day. All the crew who set out for Lhotse Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) made it in good fashion. It was a mix of sun and clouds on the Lhotse Face today. Yeah, everyone made it in good [garbled]. Enjoying some good dinner tonight – curry chicken and some popcorn! Currently, the lines have been fixed to the summit of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft). Hopefully sometime in the near future Krisli, Nelly, and Terray will be ready to make a charge up the Lhotse Face once a weather window opens. They have camped for a couple of more recovery days [garbled]… Positive news, there has been more snow around here lately which has accumulated on the Lhotse Face which will help prevent future rockfall.

Today, the team was able to see the Sherpa team over on the Nuptse Face fixing the lines up the Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) route! So, progress is being made on that front as well. Tomorrow, the majority of the team will be heading down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) for some recovery before the next rotation.

This is Casey Diener, checking out!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Birthday celebration in Camp 2!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse expedition team is tucked into Camp 2 for the night after another great day in the Western Cwm! The team took a small acclimatization hike and played some games in the team tents. A special ‘happy birthday’ goes out to climber, Tyler Shearburn who celebrated his 43rd birthday today on Mount Everest – we couldn’t think of many better ways to celebrate than spending time in this special place! The team checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:

Hello, this is Madison climber, Tyler Shearburn reporting here from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) on Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) at 21,300 feet.

Everyone is looking and feeling great! Well, about as good as you can at over 21,000 feet. Today we had an active rest day that included a small acclimatization hike. We also had fellow climber rejoin our climbing group, Casey from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). Our day included some great food from the talented chefs in Camp 2 and some intense Monopoly video games.

Garrett’s allowed me to do this dispatch – it is also my 43rd, 43rd sorry, 43rd birthday today! I wanted to send my love to all my friends and family following our journey on the Madison dispatch. I miss you all and can’t wait to see you upon my return! This is Tyler signing off from Camp 2.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Update from the Himalayas!

The Madison Mountaineering base camp with a dusting of snow beneath Mount Everest and Nuptse.

All is well for the Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams! While our Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse team is currently in Camp 2 continuing their acclimatization efforts, the Mountain Cleanup Project team is in base camp preparing to move forward with their summit rotation, cleaning up the different camps along the way. Everyone is in good spirits and there is lots of excitement surrounding the team as we grow closer to the summit push. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering spring, 2024 Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expeditions – today is May 7th. It’s a beautiful day here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft)! We’ve been having some convection each afternoon for the last few days and that’s brought a little dusting of snow each evening here in base camp and the upper mountain. It’s just made for really beautiful conditions here at Mount Everest with fresh, pristine snow on the ground in the morning. Hopefully, it’s also improving climbing conditions up high. It’s been very dry this season, so the mountain could use a little bit of snow.

Right now, Garrett, Aang Phurba, and Cacho are up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) with our main group of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse climbers. They plan to take a rest day at Camp 2 today and then continue acclimatizing probably by climbing part way up the Lhotse Face tomorrow. Our Nuptse climbers will start preparing to move to Nuptse high camp.

I’m in base camp with Nelly Attar, our Lhotse climber and cleaner. We plan to move up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) tonight, spend a night at Camp 1, then move up to Camp 2 where we’ll work on the majority of our cleanup efforts here at Lhotse. After that we’ll move on up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft), cleaning as we go, and then head for a summit of Lhotse maybe in about a week.

All is well here! Spirits are high and it’s great to be heading up the mountain. We’ll be in touch via inReach, text, or satphone call from the mountain.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Acclimatizing in Camp 1

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering team stayed put in Camp 1 today, doing a hike in the Western Cwm to continue their acclimatization. Snow was a welcome sight on the mountain today and should improve climbing conditions. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 1:

All good here in C1 (6050m/19,849ft), went for an acclimatization hike today. Finally getting some snow as well! Much needed to cover the icy conditions.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Through the icefall and into Camp 1

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition team have arrived in Camp 1! The team moved smoothly through the Khumbu Icefall and looks forward to the coming days of acclimatization and time spent in the Western Cwm. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this brief dispatch from Camp 1:

Greetings from C1 (6050m/19,849ft). We had a nice climb up through the icefall today, everyone is doing well here.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Heading up!

The team entering the Khumbu Icefall a few days ago to get acquainted with the initial portion of the route. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams have set off on their first rotation through the Khumbu Icefall with plans to touch Camp 3 before returning to their base camp, and beginning preparations for their summit push! On a clear and starry night, the team set foot into the icefall navigating through what’s considered one of the most challenging sections on the route. Previous technical training in base camp reviewed the skills the team will need to use to safely and efficiently move through this landscape. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this brief dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) climb. We are heading up on our first rotation now to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft)! We’re going to spend a couple of nights up there, then head on up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft)! It’s a beautiful, starry night. Little rumbles in the distance there… We’re excited to get going! Everyone’s doing well and we’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Lobuche Summits!

Lobuche East summit photo!

It comes with great excitement to share that the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team has completed their first rotation with 100 percent of the team reaching the summit of Lobuche East! The team has returned to base camp, greeted by additional members who have joined the expedition. All together, we look forward to a second Puja ceremony and our second rotation, this time through the Khumbu Icefall. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition.

Today our team returned from a successful climb of Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) for training and acclimatization. 100 percent success on the peak, beautiful views, and everyone back safely. A few members of our team have been here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) with me training the last few days, practicing fixed lines, and tomorrow we’re going to have a Puja ceremony, our second one now that everyone is here together to ask the mountain for safe passage. And then, we’re planning our first rotation up to Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft), 2 (6500m/21,325ft), and 3 (7230m/23,720ft) shortly.

Everyone’s doing great, it’s been beautiful weather here at Everest Base Camp, and our Sherpa team has been working hard up on the route to Camp 1 and Camp 2 carrying loads. So, all is well here at Mount Everest and we’ll check in soon!

The Madison Mountaineering team ascending fixed lines toward the summit of Lobuche East!

The Madison Mountaineering team ascending fixed lines toward the summit of Lobuche East!

Everest Base Camp sitting below Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp sitting below Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Sunset views from Everest Base Camp (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Sunset views from Everest Base Camp (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Lobuche East climb starting soon!

The team during an acclimatization hike on Kala Patthar!

The climbing is about to begin! Our 2024 Himalayan expedition teams have conducted their Puja ceremony, done technical training in the Khumbu Icefall, and are ready for their first rotation. Their first rotation will take place on Lobuche East, another peak near base camp which has less objective hazard than the Khumbu Icefall. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition team. Today, our Everest main team is down at Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) and leaving in a few hours for the summit of Lobuche East! (They’re) going for the summit early morning, hopefully at sunrise, and then will be back at base camp (6119m/20,075ft) in a couple of days.

Meanwhile, a couple of our climbers were out training in the Khumbu Icefall today practicing ropes and technical climbing with Aang Phurba and myself. Terray and Nelly are back from Annapurna (8091m/26,545ft) doing their climbing and cleanup project. It was a very successful project! Now they’ve just arrived to Everest Base Camp, settling in, and getting ready for Lhotse!

So, all is well here in the Khumbu Valley and on Mount Everest! Our Sherpa team has been carrying loads up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), the weather has been great, and we are excited to continue with the expedition and head up the icefall here in a few days time! We’ll check in soon.

Scene from the team's Puja Ceremony - an essential piece of our Mount Everest expeditions. (Photo by Courtenay Roche)

Scene from the team’s Puja Ceremony – an essential piece of our Mount Everest expeditions. (Photo by Courtenay Roche)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Wrapping up the second rotation!

The "first wave" team testing out their down suits in Camp 2 at 21,300'. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

After several days and nights spent above the Khumbu Icefall in the Western Cwm, the Madison Mountaineering team’s second acclimatization rotation is coming to a close! With a few days of rest and relaxation ahead, the team can start to look forward to their summit push. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is May 5th.

This morning our first wave of Everest and Lhotse climbers wrapped up their second acclimatization foray on the mountain. They spent three nights at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), climbed up toward the Lhotse face one day, and then this morning we returned back down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). It was absolutely beautiful weather for that descent and we had great conditions as we descended through the Khumbu Icefall, which is in really excellent shape this year!

Meanwhile, the second wave of our Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers are at Camp 2. They moved from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) to Camp 2 today, they’ll spend several nights there acclimatizing, and then descend back to base camp. If weather and route conditions allow, then some of those climbers will head up to Nuptse as well!

So, all is well here in base camp! Tomorrow, our first wave of climbers will start their drop back in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We’ll fly down the valley via helicopter to rest and relax, and prepare for our summit push. We’ll be in touch!

Morning light on Pumori as the "first wave" moved to Camp 2. (Photo: terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Pumori as the “first wave” moved to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, in the Khumbu Icefall on the way to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, in the Khumbu Icefall on the way to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Peter Horsman, and the "first wave" team descending out of the Western Cwm toward base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Peter Horsman, and the “first wave” team descending out of the Western Cwm toward base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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On to the second rotation!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The second rotation for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse expeditions is underway in the Himalayas! The first of our teams to ascend through the icefall have successfully reached Camp 2, and our second team will make their first voyage into the icefall in a few hours time. In an effort to further acclimatize before their summit push, the teams plan to work further up the mountain before returning to base camp in a few days. With good weather, our Nuptse climbers will make an attempt on the dramatic looking peak that towers above Everest Base Camp below. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team. Today is Tuesday, May 2nd.

Early this morning our first wave of climbers left base camp (5364m/17,598ft) to climb up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) along with guides Terray Sylvester, Scott Webster and Aang Phurba Sherpa. Our second wave of climbers is leaving tonight along with myself and Cacho to climb up from base camp to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). (We’ll) spend a couple of nights at Camp 1 and then proceed on to Camp 2.

All of our climbers and teams will be up high the next few days acclimatizing, getting familiar with the route, and hopefully getting some great views up high of Everest! We’ll also try to go for Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) with our Nuptse climbers if conditions are good. It looks like high winds in the forecast, it’s been snowing the last few days, but hopefully the weather will be improving!

So, all is well here on Mount Everest and we’re excited to get climbing underway!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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