Posts

Dinner at the Qatar Ambassador to Nepal's Residence

Finishing out day three of the safety quarantine, Garrett and the team enjoyed a very special dinner and evening in Kathmandu.  Here’s the word from Garrett:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Ama Dablam team.  We are still in Kathmandu enjoying our time in quarantine.

Today we occupied ourselves by doing yoga on the lawn, working out in the fitness center here at the hotel, and walking around town a little bit before going over to the Ambassador of Qatar‘s residence for a friendly evening and dinner.  It was wonderful to meet him and to come back to the Yak & Yeti after a fulfilling dinner.

We are looking forward to some good news tomorrow – hopefully the Khumbu Valley will reopen tomorrow.  Fingers crossed.

All’s well here in Kathmandu.  Thanks!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

Instagram:

Team dinner at the Mezze in Kathmandu

Day 3 of the pandemic safety quarantine in Kathmandu at the Hotel Yak & Yeti and expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks-in with today’s dispatch:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Ama Dablam expedition and Gokyo trek teams.  We are at the Yak & Yeti hotel in Kathmandu and finishing up our quarantine here over the next few days.

We’re wondering if the Khumbu is going to remain open, as there have been some cases there.  We’re planning to head up to the Khumbu in a few days, but if not, we might be changing plans and heading off to climb another mountain here in Nepal.

Everybody’s doing great.  We’ve been enjoying some good dinners here and some exercise at the hotel – some yoga and stretching out on the grass lawn.

We’re all in good spirits!  Everone’s doing well and we’ll check in soon.  Thanks!

Gear check at the Hotel Yak & Yeti

Gear check at the Hotel Yak & Yeti

Enjoying an Everest beer in Kathmandu with Kenton Cool

Enjoying an Everest beer in Kathmandu with Kenton Cool


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

Instagram:

picture of hotel and swimming pool

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, and the Ama Dablam team have arrived in Kathmandu and have started their mandatory 7-day safety quarantine (in style) at the Hotel Yak & Yeti.  Adhering to the current Entry Protocol for Mountaineering Expeditions and Trekking in Nepal, all were required to present a negative COVID-19 PCR test result taken less than 72 hours before travel before boarding their planes and upon arrival in Kathmandu.  After 5 days in quarantine, they will all take another COVID-19 test and, with another negative result, will be able to finish the arrival quarantine after 7-days and start the Ama Dablam expedition.  Our Gokyo Ri / Lobuche / Island Peak team is also in arrival quarantine.  Here’s Garrett with the details from Kathmandu:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Ama Dablam climb expedition, as well as our private Gokyo trekking programs.

We made it to Kathmandu, Nepal!  It was smooth flying all the way from the U.S. to Nepal, had a couple of layovers along the way.  But very smooth flying.  Got into Nepal, no issues with our visas.  We had all of our documents in order and just made it to the hotel.

We’re all checked in at the Yak & Yeti hotel.  We are, actually, the only group here at the Yak & Yeti hotel – the Madison Mountaineering teams for Ama Dablam and the Gokyo treks.  We’ve got it all to ourselves!  Looking forward to a great day here tomorrow, breakfast, and some exercise here in the courtyard at the Yak & Yeti.

Everyone’s doing great and we are looking forward to enjoying our quarantine period here in Kathmandu!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

Instagram:

This week we kick off our safe return to Nepal for some Autumn trekking and climbing adventures.  The teams are now making their way to Nepal.  Ama Dablam expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in from LAX while en route to Kathmandu:

Hello, this is Garrett Madison calling in – kicking-off the Ama Dablam expedition along with our Gokyo trek private trips.  We are waiting to board here in Los Angeles to fly to Kathmandu.

We are following all of the safely protocols: masking up, wear the face shield.  (We are) really excited to be the first people, we know of, going back to Nepal! and taking pride in safely bringing much needed tourist revenue to the Nepalese people as well as the funds from our GoFundMe campaign to support our Sherpas.

So, we are very excited to heading over to Nepal, to see all of our friends there, and to head up to the Khumbu Valley and make our way up towards the high peaks that we love so much.

We’ll check in soon.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

Instagram:

Today we departed Mount Everest base camp at 4 AM and climbed up through the Khumbu Icefall in the pre dawn hours when the ice is solid. Then we had the pleasure of a beautiful sunrise as we ascended up through the Icefall to Camp 1. After reaching Camp 1 we continued up through the Western CWM (valley) to Camp 2, our Advanced Base Camp. It was a long day of climbing, but we are happy to finally have arrived in our Advanced Base Camp on Mount Everest and now looking forward to a rest day tomorrow! Everyone is doing well here on Mount Everest!

Today our Sherpas carried 10 loads of ropes and hardware from Camp 2, our Advanced Base Camp, to the South Col high camp (Camp 4) on Mount Everest.  This load carry is approximately 4,500 ft. (1380m) from Camp 2 to Camp 4, and very strenuous day, which involves climbing the steep ice of the Lhotse Face, crossing the rock formation known as the Yellow Band, and then up and over the secondary rock formation known as the Geneva Spur, a ridge line which separates the upper Lhotse Face.  Our Sherpas are planning to carry another 10 loads of essential equipment tomorrow, to complete the positioning of gear necessary for the rope fixing project to reach the summit of Mount Everest.

Second Rotation And Rope Fixing Updates !

Our team of climbers is heading up tonight on our second rotation on Mount Everest to acclimatize. Additionally, they will carry essential equipment to our high camps such as our down suits, mittens, hand warmers, and electric foot warmers in preparation for our summit rotation in a couple weeks time. We have been resting up here in Everest base camp the last few days . We are ready to make our second trip up Everest to climb the Lhotse Face to Camp 3. Our plan is to touch Camp 3 and then return to Camp 2 for the night. We should be back in base camp in 4 or 5 days time.

The goal of this second rotation is to continue building our acclimatization and increase our familiarity with the route . Furthermore, to become more efficient in our climbing through the Khumbu Icefall, Western CWM, and the Lhotse Face which is more icy this year than in previous seasons.

Our rope fixing sherpas are currently in Camp 2 on Mount Everest and will be carrying loads of rope and hardware (ice screws, carabiners, oxygen, etc.) to the South Col high camp (Camp 4) tomorrow and the following day. And, hopefully depositing all essential equipment for the rope fixing project at the South Col. After this load carry they will take a rest and we will evaluate the weather forecast for the final stage of the rope fixing project. Evaluation involves setting the ropes from the South Col high camp (Camp 4) to the summit, a multi day project. We hope for good weather and route conditions for this project to continue moving forward in a timely manner.

Puja During Morning For First Rotation

We have begun our First Rotation! Today our climbers and guides departed Everest base camp at 3 AM . They will climbed up through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1, arriving in the morning. Our plan is to rest for the remainder of the day at Camp 1 and then spend the night here. Our plan for tomorrow is to go for an acclimatization hike up the Western CWM (valley) tomorrow and then spend another night in Camp 1. All is well here on Camp1.

Settled into EBC :

Today is our 4th day in Everest base camp, we are now settled here for this 2018 expedition. We have been training for the Khumbu Icefall by practicing various climbing techniques such as ascending fixed ropes, rappelling, and crossing ladders. We will continue training the next few days before we make our first ‘rotation’ to Camps 1 & 2. Tomorrow is our Puja ceremony. All is well here in base camp.

Settled In Dinning Room

                                                                                                                                                     Resting In Dinning Room

 

 

Base Camp Arrival :

Yesterday our team arrived in Mount Everest base camp! It was nice to finally arrive at our home for the season. After, over a week of trekking through the beautiful Khumbu valley we are here now. We were greeted by our Nepal Sherpa staff and then had a relaxing afternoon moving into our personal tents. Today we said good bye to our trekkers and Island peak climbers as they left us to head onto their next destination. We had a leisurely morning and took much needed hot showers. Then, went on a walkabout around the small city of Everest base camp. The weather has been great today and we are enjoying the spectacular views of Mount Everest, Mount Lhotse, and Mount Nuptse from our camp. Everyone is well and we are happy to be settled into our home for the next 5 – 6 weeks.

Depart From Namche!

We have had 2 great days on the trail trekking up towards Everest base camp. The weather has been cool and moist which is a pleasant suprise as normally its warm and dusty during the first half of the trek. Our friends at the Panorama lodge in Namche gave us a blessing before we said our good byes, then we made our way to the Tengboche monastry for a short visit and then to the Rivendell lodge for the night. Today, we had our first glimpse of Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse, then trekked to the village of Pangboche for a blessing with the high lama, and onwards to the village of Dingboche where we will stay for 2 nights. Everyone is doing well!