Tag Archive for: Everest

Back in base camp after the summit!

The team on the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team has safely returned to their base camp after topping out on the world’s fifth-highest peak! Just in time for dinner, the team descended into their camp, concluding another chapter of this challenging expedition. The team climbed under the moon and stars from Camp 3, gaining Makalu’s summit ridge as the sunrise began to light-up the surrounding peaks – a welcome sight after climbing in the dark for so long! With Alex in our hearts, our team stepped onto the summit and embraced, taking in the moment as this dream was realized before turning back and heading down. We’re so proud of this team! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition – today is May the 12th. It’s a beautiful morning here in base camp, sunny and warm, and we are relaxing after our successful summit yesterday morning! We stood on top of the fifth-highest peak on the planet yesterday, about 6:00 AM.

It was a great summit day! We left Camp 3 at about 9:30 PM on May 10th, climbed through the night under a mostly full moon and arrived on Makalu’s summit ridge just before sunrise, which meant we got to watch as the morning sun illuminated the Kangshung Face of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), right next door. We could see headlamps of climbers way up on Everest on the southeast ridge, just below the summit. So yeah, it was a really great summit day and then we descended all the way back down to base camp yesterday evening and arrived in time for dinner at our normal time, 6:00.

It was a great climb and I think the best possible way to wrap up what has been a really difficult time here at Makalu for the whole Madison Mountaineering team after our teammate and friend, Alex Pancoe passed away so suddenly at Camp 2 during our acclimatization rotation. That event just left us all reeling, but we talked it over and it was clear to us that Alex brought, he brought so much stoke to the mountains. He loved being here so much and we were sure that he would have wanted us to keep climbing. So, on the 8th, we realized that we had just enough time to get to the summit in good weather before jet stream winds returned to the top of the mountain, so we went for it.

We will spend the rest of today packing up, wrapping up the expedition and then we are going to start making our way back down to lower elevations! We’ll be in touch.

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Makalu Summit Success!

Our team climbing above base camp earlier in the expedition (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The morning of May 11th brought uplifting news to our Everest–Lhotse expedition team: our Makalu team had successfully reached the summit! After a deeply emotional beginning to the journey with the loss of our dear teammate, Alex Pancoe, the entire team came together on the top, sharing heartfelt hugs and high-fives. We couldn’t be prouder of this incredible achievement — and we know Alex would be, too. As they awaited updates from the world’s fifth-highest peak, our Everest–Lhotse team rejoiced in the news, drawing inspiration as they prepare for their own summit rotation. Expedition leader Garrett Madison shares this latest dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team and today is Sunday, May 11th in the morning here in Nepal.

We’ve got some good news to report – our Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team led by Terray Sylvester, along with climbers Kristin and Aga, and five of our stellar Nepal Sherpas all summited Makalu today! They reported great weather conditions and had a wonderful summit. Now, they’re making their way down to Camp 3 and Camp 2.

So, we’re very happy for our Makalu team! It’s been a great end to their season, despite losing one of the team members, Alex Pancoe, to a likely cardiac arrest in Camp 2 earlier in the season. So, wonderful conclusion to the Makalu expedition!

The Everest team here, most of us are down in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) actually resting and recuperating, getting ready for the final summit rotation. A couple members are up here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) hanging out with myself and guides, Conan and Cacho, Aang Phurba’s up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) managing the Sherpa team at the moment.

So, all is well here on Mount Everest! We’re just watching the forecast and the rope fixing is in, so waiting for the winds to drop a bit and our members to be 100% before we embark on our final summit push!

So, all is well here in Nepal on Everest! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Makalu Camp 3

The team together earlier in the expedition with Makalu behind (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team has ascended to Camp 3 and is now setting their sights on the summit. After a successful day of climbing, the team is settled into their sleeping bags, ready and in position for the final push. The day began with breathtaking views of Everest and Lhotse nearby, and the climbers moved efficiently and powerfully through mixed terrain of snow, rock, and ice. With a favorable weather window, they’re fully prepared to make their summit bid. Expedition leader Terray Sylvester shares this update from Makalu:

Hello from Camp 3 (7,480m / 24,540′). This morning we made good time here over the varied terrain (golden granite, snow, occasional ice) that leads to this camp located just on the far side of the Makalu La. The whole team is moving with strength and determination. I’m super proud of our climbers and sherpa staff. Clear skies this morning afforded us excellent views of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and the South Col (7900m/25,919ft) between them, seemingly just a stone’s throw away. Now the afternoon convective pattern that has prevailed lately has wrapped us in clouds. We plan to relax for the rest of the evening before potentially starting our final summit push. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Move to Camp 2 on Makalu

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team continued their acclimatization rotation, moving up to Camp 2 today with beautiful weather and epic views along the way. As they moved further up the route, two other familiar giants, Everest and Lhotse came into view. An inspiring venue, our team enjoyed views of the surrounding peaks as they ate dinner and finished up another great day in the Himalayas. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu:

It’s a beautiful evening in Camp 2 at just above 6,600m. Today we moved here from Camp 1 under sunny skies with Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Everest (8848m/29,032ft) emerging into view over the ridge to the west of us. Now we’re eating dinner in the evening sun with a perspective onto the South Col (7906m/25,938ft) and Everest’s upper Kangshung Face. The team is doing well. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Check in from the Ama Dablam team!

The team on the summit of Ama Dablam with Everest and Lhotse in the background! From left: Guide Terray Sylvester, our climber, Joe, and Sirdar and Guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Safely back in base camp, the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team spent the day re-introducing themselves to the luxuries of life off of the mountain! After a great day successfully reaching the summit on the day prior, the team relaxed, celebrated, and began getting prepared to make their way back down the valley. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this celebratory dispatch from Ama Dablam base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the autumn 2024 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – today is November 8th. Today, we had a rest day here in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) after our successful summit push. Yesterday, we topped out on Ama Dablam at about 7:30 AM in the morning, and then we descended all the way back down to base camp and had a nice dinner here and got a good nights sleep.

So, we spent today taking showers and getting packed and prepared for our trek back down the valley to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft). Our plan is to leave for Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) tomorrow morning and then finish off the trek the following day.

All in all, we had a fantastic summit push! Two days ago, or three days ago on November 5th, we moved up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft). The following day, we moved to Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft), rested most of the day, and then that evening at about 11:00 PM we started our summit climb and topped out at about 7:30 AM in the morning! The climbing conditions were perfect – zero wind and perfectly clear skies, which meant we had great views of the peaks around us and before the sun came up, excellent views of a brilliant, starry sky over the Himalayas!

So, all is well here in base camp and we’ll be in touch from Namche Bazaar tomorrow!

Our climber, Joe, stepping onto the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Joe, stepping onto the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Approaching Camp 2. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Approaching Camp 2. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Celebratory cake back in base camp the evening after our team summited!

Celebratory cake back in base camp the evening after our team summited!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ama Dablam Summits!

It comes with great excitement to share that at 7:36 AM local time on November 7, the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team successfully reached the summit! The team left their tents at Camp 2 and climbed through the night, navigating technical terrain under starry skies. In the morning hours, the sun began to come up revealing excellent views of many surrounding peaks and the route below. It was near perfect weather and route conditions for our summit day! After taking the final few steps onto the summit, the team shared hugs and high-fives in celebration before reporting the good news to our other teams in the Khumbu region. The team is now safely back in base camp and will begin to pack their bags and start their departure from the Himalaya soon! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Ama Dablam:

Hello from base camp! This morning we summited Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) from Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) in excellent weather. We left Camp 2 at about 11 p.m. and stepped onto the summit not long after sunrise in perfectly clear skies without a breath of wind. After soaking up the views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Makalu (8463m/27,766ft), Kanchenjunga (8586m/28,169ft) and other peaks, we descended all the way here to base camp (4600m/15,100ft). We just wrapped up dinner and we’re looking forward to some well-earned sleep!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Cho Oyu Summit Success!

Summit photo on the top of Cho Oyu!

After several years off the mountain, it comes with great pleasure to share that 100% of our 2024 Cho Oyu expedition team has successfully reached the summit of the world’s sixth-highest peak! We are so proud of the team for their hard work and determination after a challenging season weather-wise. A HUGE shoutout and thank you goes out to our Sherpa team – these feats would not be possible without you. We’ve returned safely to base camp and will begin our departure home soon! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this celebratory dispatch from Cho Oyu base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu (8188m/26,864ft) expedition team!

We are back down in base camp today and yesterday, October 7th, we summited Cho Oyu, the sixth-highest mountain in the world. All team members made it – 100% success! (I) couldn’t be more proud of our team. Everyone did awesome! We were so lucky with the weather. We had a beautiful, bluebird day, views in all directions (with) great views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), Makalu (8485m/27,838ft), Shishapangma (8027m/26,335ft). Just so happy that this climb worked out! It was a little tenuous there last week with the big storm, all the snow, and the season being delayed about a week here in Tibet. But, all is well!

We’re packing up base camp today. We’re going to start trekking out tomorrow, Jeeps down to Tingri (4348m/14,268ft), and onwards to Lhasa (3,656m/11,995ft). There’s no land border crossings back into Nepal open at this point after the massive flooding, they’re all washed out. So, we are going to be flying back from Lhasa! So, very excited about that.

It’s a beautiful day here in base camp! We’re doing well, and happy, and looking forward to getting home soon.

High Camp with otherworldly views of the surrounding Himalayas!

High Camp with otherworldly views of the surrounding Himalayas!

Views of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse from high on the mountain!

Views of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse from high on the mountain!

Evening light high in the alpine.

Morning light high in the alpine.

The team on our summit rotation under blue skies!

The team on our summit rotation under blue skies!

Climbing up on the summit rotation!

Climbing up on the summit rotation!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Making Progress!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse expedition teams are making good progress towards their different objectives! While the sun shined on the Lhotse Face as the team ascended to Camp 3, our Sherpa team was able to be seen over the “valley of silence” fixing the route up the Nuptse Face! Madison Mountaineering climber, Casey Diener checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:

This is Casey Diener calling in from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) with Madison Mountaineering! I’m just a climber on the team here.

We had a good acclimatization day. All the crew who set out for Lhotse Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) made it in good fashion. It was a mix of sun and clouds on the Lhotse Face today. Yeah, everyone made it in good [garbled]. Enjoying some good dinner tonight – curry chicken and some popcorn! Currently, the lines have been fixed to the summit of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft). Hopefully sometime in the near future Krisli, Nelly, and Terray will be ready to make a charge up the Lhotse Face once a weather window opens. They have camped for a couple of more recovery days [garbled]… Positive news, there has been more snow around here lately which has accumulated on the Lhotse Face which will help prevent future rockfall.

Today, the team was able to see the Sherpa team over on the Nuptse Face fixing the lines up the Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) route! So, progress is being made on that front as well. Tomorrow, the majority of the team will be heading down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) for some recovery before the next rotation.

This is Casey Diener, checking out!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Birthday celebration in Camp 2!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse expedition team is tucked into Camp 2 for the night after another great day in the Western Cwm! The team took a small acclimatization hike and played some games in the team tents. A special ‘happy birthday’ goes out to climber, Tyler Shearburn who celebrated his 43rd birthday today on Mount Everest – we couldn’t think of many better ways to celebrate than spending time in this special place! The team checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:

Hello, this is Madison climber, Tyler Shearburn reporting here from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) on Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) at 21,300 feet.

Everyone is looking and feeling great! Well, about as good as you can at over 21,000 feet. Today we had an active rest day that included a small acclimatization hike. We also had fellow climber rejoin our climbing group, Casey from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). Our day included some great food from the talented chefs in Camp 2 and some intense Monopoly video games.

Garrett’s allowed me to do this dispatch – it is also my 43rd, 43rd sorry, 43rd birthday today! I wanted to send my love to all my friends and family following our journey on the Madison dispatch. I miss you all and can’t wait to see you upon my return! This is Tyler signing off from Camp 2.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Update from the Himalayas!

The Madison Mountaineering base camp with a dusting of snow beneath Mount Everest and Nuptse.

All is well for the Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams! While our Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse team is currently in Camp 2 continuing their acclimatization efforts, the Mountain Cleanup Project team is in base camp preparing to move forward with their summit rotation, cleaning up the different camps along the way. Everyone is in good spirits and there is lots of excitement surrounding the team as we grow closer to the summit push. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering spring, 2024 Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expeditions – today is May 7th. It’s a beautiful day here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft)! We’ve been having some convection each afternoon for the last few days and that’s brought a little dusting of snow each evening here in base camp and the upper mountain. It’s just made for really beautiful conditions here at Mount Everest with fresh, pristine snow on the ground in the morning. Hopefully, it’s also improving climbing conditions up high. It’s been very dry this season, so the mountain could use a little bit of snow.

Right now, Garrett, Aang Phurba, and Cacho are up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) with our main group of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse climbers. They plan to take a rest day at Camp 2 today and then continue acclimatizing probably by climbing part way up the Lhotse Face tomorrow. Our Nuptse climbers will start preparing to move to Nuptse high camp.

I’m in base camp with Nelly Attar, our Lhotse climber and cleaner. We plan to move up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) tonight, spend a night at Camp 1, then move up to Camp 2 where we’ll work on the majority of our cleanup efforts here at Lhotse. After that we’ll move on up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft), cleaning as we go, and then head for a summit of Lhotse maybe in about a week.

All is well here! Spirits are high and it’s great to be heading up the mountain. We’ll be in touch via inReach, text, or satphone call from the mountain.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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