Tag Archive for: Everest

The team during an acclimatization hike on Kala Patthar!

The climbing is about to begin! Our 2024 Himalayan expedition teams have conducted their Puja ceremony, done technical training in the Khumbu Icefall, and are ready for their first rotation. Their first rotation will take place on Lobuche East, another peak near base camp which has less objective hazard than the Khumbu Icefall. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition team. Today, our Everest main team is down at Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) and leaving in a few hours for the summit of Lobuche East! (They’re) going for the summit early morning, hopefully at sunrise, and then will be back at base camp (6119m/20,075ft) in a couple of days.

Meanwhile, a couple of our climbers were out training in the Khumbu Icefall today practicing ropes and technical climbing with Aang Phurba and myself. Terray and Nelly are back from Annapurna (8091m/26,545ft) doing their climbing and cleanup project. It was a very successful project! Now they’ve just arrived to Everest Base Camp, settling in, and getting ready for Lhotse!

So, all is well here in the Khumbu Valley and on Mount Everest! Our Sherpa team has been carrying loads up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), the weather has been great, and we are excited to continue with the expedition and head up the icefall here in a few days time! We’ll check in soon.

Scene from the team's Puja Ceremony - an essential piece of our Mount Everest expeditions. (Photo by Courtenay Roche)

Scene from the team’s Puja Ceremony – an essential piece of our Mount Everest expeditions. (Photo by Courtenay Roche)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team during an acclimatization hike on a spectacular day in the Himalaya!

The Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams are nearing base camp as they continue to move further up the Khumbu Valley. The weather was spectacular for their acclimatization hike above Pheriche, giving them great views of the high peaks above them and the valley below. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) climbing team and trekking team.

Today is April 20th and we are heading up to Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) after a couple of good nights here in Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft). We did an acclimatization hike up the hill, magnificent views all around and the team is doing great! Beautiful weather here today, clear skies, and looking forward to heading up the hill, getting to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) in a few days time.

Clear, blue skies in the Himalaya!

Clear, blue skies in the Himalaya!

Next stop: Lobuche!

Next stop: Lobuche!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

At our blessing today in Pangboche!

After spending a day in Namche Bazaar acclimatizing, the Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams hit the trail again today towards Pheriche. The team made a stop at the Pangboche Monastery where they received blessings before continuing toward their next destination. Situated below Ama Dablam, the views here are magnificent and the team looks forward to hopefully having more Himalayan views tomorrow during an acclimatization hike. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hey! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) climbing and trekking team. Today we made it to Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft). We had an easy walk up the valley after a wonderful blessing this morning in Pangboche Monastery (3985m/13,074ft)!

The team’s looking good! Everyone’s very strong and healthy, and we’re very excited for our acclimatization hike tomorrow. Hopefully, we’ll get some great views of some of the 8,000-meter peaks surrounding us!

All is well here in the Khumbu Valley of Nepal and we’ll check in soon!

All smiles while trekking up the Khumbu Valley.

All smiles while trekking up the Khumbu Valley.

Trekking up the Khumbu Valley in the fog.

Trekking up the Khumbu Valley in the fog.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams have arrived in the exciting town of Namche Bazaar! Namche serves as the main hub in the Khumbu region where climbers and trekkers from around the world can enjoy the comforts of comfortable lodges, cafes, bakeries, restaurants, and more! The team had a spectacular day trekking along the Dudh Koshi River, crossing multiple suspension bridges along the way high above the river below. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Namche Bazaar:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition! Today is April 15, Monday, and today we arrived in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft)! We trekked up the beautiful Khumbu Valley along the river, across some suspension bridges, and made our way into Namche this afternoon. (We) had a wonderful, restful afternoon, got hot showers, had a nice dinner, and now we’re off to bed. So, we’re looking forward to spending another night here, and fun hike tomorrow up to the Everest View Hotel, and continuing on our way!

Everyone’s doing well, we’re happy to be here, and we’ll check in soon!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team making their way up the beautiful Khumbu Valley!

Hello, from the Khumbu Valley! The spring, 2024 Himalayan season is underway and our team has begun their trek towards Everest Base Camp. After traveling from around the world and arriving in Kathmandu, the team settled into their hotel rooms before conducting a gear check, orientation, and enjoying a nice welcome dinner as a team! The following morning after a big breakfast at the Yak and Yeti hotel, our team gathered on the helicopter pad and awaited their lift to Lukla – the starting point for where we’ll begin the trek to Everest Base Camp. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Phakding:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition team! Today is April 14, Sunday, and today we flew from Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) by helicopter to start the trek. We trekked to the first village, Phakding (2610m/8,562ft), where we had an afternoon lunch and dinner. We had beautiful views today – so nice to be up in the Khumbu Valley where the air is fresh, the views are magnificent, and the people are wonderful.

So, we’re excited to be in the mountains heading uphill towards Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) and beyond. Everyone’s doing well and we’ll check in soon tomorrow from Namche (3440m/11,290ft)!

Team photo outside of our team hotel, the Yak and Yeti!

Team photo outside of our team hotel, the Yak and Yeti!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Efforts from phase 1 of the Mountain Cleanup Project last fall (photo by Terray Sylvester)

We are very excited to announce the commencement of phase two of our Mountain Cleanup Project! After a successful fall season in 2023 cleaning up trash from Lobuche East, Ama Dablam, and Mera Peak, we’re kicking off the second phase of the project on Annapurna and Lhotse. The team has all arrived in Kathmandu, enjoyed a welcome dinner together, and are preparing for their departure in a few days time! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this dispatch from Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Annapurna (8091m/26,545ft) plus Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition – today is March 19th. Yesterday our climber, Nelly Attar, arrived here in Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) and we had a nice welcome dinner at a tasty Arabic restaurant near our hotel, The Yak and Yeti. Today, we’re doing a gear check and organizing items for our departure to Annapurna in a couple of days.

We’re excited for this expedition! This will be the second phase of the trash cleanup project that we started last fall in the Everest region. Last fall we picked up trash on three popular 6,000-meter peaks over there: Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft), Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft), and Mera Peak (6476m/21,247ft). This spring, we’re focusing on Annapurna and Lhotse.

So, all is well here in Kathmandu and we’ll stay in touch!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team departing from Deboche with views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Under beautiful, clear-blue Himalayan skies, our Madison Mountaineering teams continued their trek further up the Khumbu Valley with a stop in Pangboche for a blessing at the monastery. This is a special experience for many – these cultural experiences along with trekking and climbing in the Himalaya make for a truly engaging combination. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Pheriche:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest base camp (5364m/17,598ft) trek, Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) and Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) climbs – today is October 26.

Today we trekked from Deboche (3820m/12,532ft) to Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft). Along the way we stopped for a blessing at the monastery in Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft). That’s always a nice ceremony – a nice way to mark a milestone in our trip as we get closer to Everest base camp. In Pangboche, we also parted ways with the Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) team. They’re going to spend the night in Pangboche tonight, and then move up to Ama Dablam base camp (4600m/15,100ft) tomorrow.

But now, the Everest base camp trekking team is here in Pheriche – we’re just relaxing before dinner. For most of the day we had excellent weather yet again with crystal clear skies, and great views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) ahead of us. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Garrett and our Everest Base Camp crew: Max, Alex, Kirk and Nick (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Garrett and our Everest Base Camp crew: Max, Alex, Kirk and Nick (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp trekker, Max visiting the monastery in Pangboche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp trekker, Max visiting the monastery in Pangboche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

EBC trekker, Max and climber, Thomas trekking above Deboche with Garrett (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

EBC trekker, Max and climber, Thomas trekking above Deboche with Garrett (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Visiting the Pangboche Monastery (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Visiting the Pangboche Monastery (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our Everest Base Camp trekking team approaching Shomare with Lhotse in the background (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our Everest Base Camp trekking team approaching Shomare with Lhotse in the background (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

A yak on the trek towards Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

A yak on the trek towards Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

EBC trekkers, Max and Nick trekking toward Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

EBC trekkers, Max and Nick trekking toward Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Trekking guide, Aaditya Nachhiring approaching Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Trekking guide, Aaditya Nachhiring approaching Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The Madison Mountaineering team with the summit of Mount Everest all to themselves on May 24, 2023 (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

We had great climbs of Everest (May 24th) and Lhotse (May 25th). The conditions were the best I’ve ever had on summit day; warm, calm, and hardly any other climbers on the route. We had the summit all to ourselves for over an hour. In addition to eight clients, four guides, and 15 Nepal Sherpas reaching the summit of Everest, we had three clients, two guides, and three Sherpas reach the summit of Lhotse the following day. Peter Horsman became the first Dutchman, Debbie Bulten became the first Canadian woman, and Danah Ali became the first Emirati to complete the Everest & Lhotse peak to peak combination.

Unfortunately, on the way down from Camp 4 on May 25th at 7500m, one of our climbers, Pieter Swart passed away in the evening from a rapid onset lung infection / pulmonary edema. Guides, Terray Sylvester & Scott Webster spent the entire day with him assisting in his descent, joined by myself and Cacho Beiza from 1:00 pm onwards after our Lhotse climb, as we attempted to descend with him down to Camp 3 where a helicopter rescue might be possible. We will remember him fondly for his kindness and enthusiasm towards our team and for living life to the fullest.

At this time, our focus is working with the Nepalese agencies to support Pieter’s family and our team as we conclude our expedition here in Nepal.

To higher places,

Garrett Madison


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

We are thrilled to announce that the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team has successfully reached the summit of the tallest mountain on Earth, and safely returned to their tents at Camp 4! The team all reached the top between 10:30 AM and 12:00 PM NPT (local time) and enjoyed a magnificent summit day complete with sunshine, little wind, great route conditions, and the route (mostly) to themselves.

Congratulations to the team and and a heartfelt thank you goes out to our rockstar Sherpa team and support staff! This incredible feat would not be possible without them.

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with today’s dispatch as he tries to find the words for a truly special day on Mount Everest:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in from the South Col (7900m/25,919ft) for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition team. We had a great summit today on Mount Everest! Best summit day ever that I can remember.

We started about 2:00 AM after a brief snowstorm here on the South Col, made our way up the triangular face to the balcony, up to the south summit, and up to the top of the world – summit of Mount Everest, about 9:30 – 10:00 AM. It was a glorious day! The best conditions and best route conditions that I can remember, perfect weather. It was warm, hardly any wind, hardly any other climbers on the mountain. We spent about two hours total, some of us, after summit just basking in the views, warmth and enjoying being at the top of Mount Everest. So, we had eight clients, four guides and 15 Nepal Sherpas get to the top today, including Aang Phurba Sherpa. And now, we’re all back safe in Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft)!

Our plan is to go to bed, we just had some dinner. Some of us are going to wake up in a few hours, and head off to climb Lhotse – a neighboring peak of Mount Everest, the fourth highest mountain in the world.

So, the perfect summit day! (I) can’t believe how lucky we were, it was so nice up there. So lucky in so many ways! It was a glorious day and glad we’re all back safe.

Tomorrow some of us will go to Lhotse, the rest of us down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), and the following day down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). All is well here on Everest! Check in soon.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest expedition team is primed and ready to make their summit push on the world’s highest peak! In just a few short hours, the team will emerge from their tents, dawn their packs, and leave the South Col in the direction of Mount Everest’s summit ridge which will take them to the summit. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the South Col:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition team. Today is May 23rd and we are up here at Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on the South Col. We got up here yesterday afternoon and had a good nights sleep, a restful day recovering and preparing for our summit attempt tonight. So the weather looks great, probably the best day of the season coming up, fingers crossed.

The team is ready and our plan is to wake up in a few hours time and head out around midnight to make our summit attempt on Mount Everest! So we are doing our last minute preparations here, finishing our dinner, filling our water bottles, we’ll sleep for 2 hours before we get up and go.

Wish us luck! We’ll check in tomorrow.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram: