All Washington state expedition dispatches

Mount Rainier summit photo!

On the evening of July 25th, the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Mount Rainier (4392m/14,411ft) team successfully reached the summit of the tallest peak in Washington! Sunny skies to start the climb was followed by stormier conditions, forcing the team to hunker down at Ingraham Flats (3383m/11,100ft). While the team waited out the adverse weather conditions, they worked on the skills needed for the climbing ahead, made lasting friendships, and bonded as a team who was motivated and ready to make their push for the summit when the storm abated. Guides, Max Strotbeck and Benny Lieber positioned the team out of the way of high winds and in a position to make their summit bid when the time came.

At approximately, 3:00 PM PST on Tuesday, July 25, the storm dissipated giving them the window they needed to make their summit push. As the only team on the route at that time, the team set off for the summit, and five hours later found themselves reaching Mount Rainier’s summit crater and counting the final steps towards its true summit. The team’s hard work, determination, and well thought out strategy gifted them with a memorable sunset summit to themselves, with views all around from the roof of Washington.

Congratulations again to the team on one awesome climb!

The team celebrating their summit success on the evening of July 25 under a beautiful sunset painted sky!

The team celebrating their summit success on the evening of July 25 under a beautiful sunset painted sky!

The team settled into our bombproof Mountain Hardwear tents!

The team settled into our bombproof Mountain Hardwear tents!

The view of camp from Ingraham Flats.

The view of camp from Ingraham Flats.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Standing on the summit of Mt. Rainier!

This last Tuesday at 5:55 AM, the Madison Mountaineering Mt. Rainier expedition team reached the the summit of Tahoma at 14,417 ft (4,394 m) – the highest point in the state of Washington! We had 100% success rate for the team and everyone is now safely down from the alpine. All went well this week on Mt. Rainier!

Sunrise on Mt. Rainier!

Sunrise on Mt. Rainier!

Summit push in the early morning hours on Mt. Rainier!

Summit push in the early morning hours on Mt. Rainier!

Crevasses on one of the glaciers this last week on Mt. Rainier!

Crevasses on one of the glaciers this last week on Mt. Rainier!

Beautiful day on Mt. Rainier!

Beautiful day on Mt. Rainier!

Members of the team at camp in Ingraham Flats.

Members of the team at camp in Ingraham Flats.

Descending the disappointment cleaver route after reaching the summit on Mt. Rainier!

Descending the disappointment cleaver route after reaching the summit on Mt. Rainier!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The entire team summits Mt. Baker!

Congratulation to our August 21st climbing team for another great summer 2021 Mt. Baker climb.  100% of the team made it to the summit of this iconic Pacific Northwest peak.  The weather couldn’t have been better and everyone had a fantastic experience.

Well done team!  Everyone is off the mountain and home savoring a job well done.  Make your plans to climb with us in the Pacific Northwest in 2022.

Dawn breaking during the summit push

Dawn breaking during the summit push (📷: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers on the summit plateau of Mt. Baker

Climbers on the summit plateau of Mt. Baker (📷: Terray Sylvester)

Entire team on the summit of Mt. Rainier!

Super psyched to report that our entire team dug deep and stood on the highest point in Washington State:  the Columbia Crest of picturesque Mt. Rainier (4392m/14,411ft) yesterday!  Well done all!!

We were honored to guide such a wonderful family group on this, the hardest endurance climb of the lower 48 states.


It’s not too early to book your group of four for our 2022 Mt. Rainier climb.  Please contact our office for details.

Ready to conquer Mt. Rainier!

Ready to conquer Mt. Rainier!

Sunrise on Mt. Rainier

Sunrise on Mt. Rainier

On the top of Mt. Baker!

Congratulation to our July 24th climbing team for another great summer 2021 Mt. Baker climb.  Nearly all of the members made it to the top of this iconic Pacific Northwest peak.  The weather couldn’t have been better and everyone had a fantastic experience.

Well done team!  Everyone is off the mountain and home savoring a job well done!!  We are looking forward to our August climbs.

Baker team heading up (📷: Denis Mishin)

Baker team heading up (📷: Denis Mishin)

Climbing the Easton Glacier up Mt. Baker (📷: Denis Mishin)

Climbing the Easton Glacier up Mt. Baker (📷: Denis Mishin)

Happy climbers on the summit of Mount Baker!

Congratulations to our July 17th team of three climbers and guide Justin Sackett for safely and successfully reaching the summit of Mount Baker this morning!  Well done team!  Everyone is off the mountain now and headed home savoring a job well done.

Here’s a couple of shots of the ascent.  Stay tuned for more PWN climbing this upcoming weekend when we will have teams on Mount Baker and Mount Rainier!

Sunrise on ascending Mount Baker climbers

Sunrise on ascending Mount Baker climbers

Nearing the summit of Mount Baker

Nearing the summit of Mount Baker

Hiking in on Mount Baker

After a thorough and fun(!) orientation and gear check on Saturday in Seattle, our July 17th Mount Baker team headed up to the trailhead at Schrieber’s Meadow yesterday and hiked up to the crest of the Railroad Grade to make high camp at around 5,800 ft.

Today after a hearty breakfast, the team reviewed glacier and snow travel skills, including rope-team travel, cramponing techniques, ice axe use, and self-arrest skills.  After dinner at camp, they are headed off to bed early tonight to get ready for an “alpine start” just after midnight when they will head for the 10,781 ft. summit.

The weather is looking just perfect for a star-filled night of climbing and a glorious clear view from the top of Koma Kulshan!  We look forward to sharing photos of the victorious team when they have descended back down.

2021.07.17 Mount Baker Gear Check and Orientation

2021.07.17 Mount Baker Gear Check and Orientation

Railroad Grade on Mount Baker's Easton Glacier route

Railroad Grade on Mount Baker’s Easton Glacier route

July 17 Mount Baker team

July 17 Mount Baker team

Wow! Do you see that? Such views from Mt. Baker.

Wow! Do you see that? Such views from Mt. Baker.

Climbing the summit pyramid on Mt. Shuksan

A perfect Shuksan summit with weather and conditions providing a beautiful climb as reported by climb leader, Garrett Madison:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Mt. Shuksan climb in the North Cascades. We had a wonderful summit day today on Mt. Shuksan. Steve and I left our high camp about 4 AM and climbed up the Sulphide Glacier in the dark, watched the sunrise over the North Cascades and illuminate the summit pyramid as we approached the base of it.

We got up to the base of the summit pyramid and started climbing the rock. It was about four pitches of rock scrambling up to the summit. Great view from the top of Mt. Shuksan over Mt. Baker, Baker Lake, and the North Cascades. A little bit of smoke to the south which actually accentuated the ridgelines between all of the peaks.

So, a wonderful day! We made it back down and a very, very successful climb. All’s well! Heading back home from Mt. Shuksan.

Smoke accentuating the North Cascades ridgelines

Smoke accentuating the North Cascades ridgelines

Climber on the rock pyramid of Mt. Shuksan

Climbing the rock pyramid of Mt. Shuksan

Joyful climbers on the summit of Mt. Shuksan

Steve M. and Garrett Madison on the summit of Mt. Shuksan

Garrett Madison on the summit of Mt. Shuksan

Garrett Madison enjoying the view from the summit of Mt. Shuksan


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates

Instagram:

Triumphant climber at Mt. Shuksan high camp

Under great conditions, expedition leader Garrett Madison calls in this audio dispatch from the slopes of Washington State’s Mount Shuksan:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Mt. Shuksan climb with Steve!  We are up here at high camp.  It is a beautiful day!  We just feel like we are spoiled rotten because the views are as-far-as-the-eye-can-see, there are no clouds, no smoke in the sky… Just a perfect evening temperature here as we have diner and get ready to go to bed early in preparation for an alpine start, pre-dawn start to our summit climb tomorrow.

Our plan is to climb the summit pyramid on Mt. Shuksan – some 5th class rock scrambling.  Then make our way all the way back down.

Having a good time up here, looking to the climb tomorrow!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates

Instagram:

Garrett and Don on the summit of Mt. Baker!

We closed out August with a great one-on-one private climb with awesome conditions on Mt. Baker.

Mt. Baker is the most heavily glaciated peak in the lower 48 contiguous United States and the second most active volcano in the Cascade Range after Mt. Saint Helens.  Its location near the Canadain border and the Puget Sound of the Pacific Ocean combine to make it one of snowiest places on Earth – in 1999 it set the world record for recorded snowfall in a single season, a remarkable 29 m or 95 ft.!

This year’s snowfall and cooler than normal spring and summer have created excellent later climbing season conditions.  Over the weekend, Garrett led a private client on glacier travel and expedition camping skills reinforcement culminating in a perfect summit on this 3,286 m / 10,781 ft. jewel of the Pacific Northwest.

There is still time to book your Mt. Baker climb for this month of September while the awesome conditions continue!  Please contact our office to join a group climb or arrange your own private climb with one of our excellent guides that specialize in Cascade climbs.

For more inspiration, here’s Garrett’s recap of the weekend’s climb and stunning photos.  Enjoy!

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Mt. Baker climb!  We got back yesterday from Mt. Baker.  We climbed the Easton Glacier route and it was in fantastic shape.  Great snow conditions for this time of year, not too many crevasses, and really good weather we had on our summit day.  We had views of the North Cascades, of Mt. Rainier, and of the San Juan Islands.  So a fantastic time up on Mt. Baker, great shape for this time of year and looking forward to more Mt. Baker climbs in September!

Mt. Baker approach hike in

Mt. Baker approach hike in

Beautiful sunset on Mt. Baker

Beautiful sunset on Mt. Baker

View from high camp of the awesome conditions on Mt. Baker

Gorgeous view of Mt. Baker from high camp

View from the tent of a Mt. Baker sunset

View from the tent of a Mt. Baker sunset

Excellent Mt. Baker climbing conditions

Excellent Mt. Baker climbing conditions

Climbing above the clouds on awesome conditions of Mt. Baker's glaciated slopes

Climbing above the clouds on Mt. Baker’s glaciated slopes


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates

Instagram: