All Everest expedition dispatches

Prepping for the summit rotation!

The team together on an acclimatization hike above Everest Base Camp with Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse behind.

The Madison Mountaineering team is hard at work getting ready for their push to the summit! They are planning to set off from Everest Base Camp in a few days time, heading for higher camps and with their sights set on the top of the world. The team is dialing everything in now, from their oxygen systems to their climbing kits. It won’t be long until they are on their way! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team – today is Thursday, May 15, we’re in Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft).

All of our members have come back from their rest down valley in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) and beyond. Everyone’s doing great here in base camp! We went for an acclimatization hike today up to Pumori Base Camp and had wonderful views looking back over at Everest, Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft). So, we’re just going through all of our oxygen systems now and plan for the next rotation while we press for the summit! We’re planning to leave in a couple of days and head up, maybe target around the 22nd of May.

So, all is well here in base camp! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by
,

Makalu Summit Success!

Our team climbing above base camp earlier in the expedition (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The morning of May 11th brought uplifting news to our Everest–Lhotse expedition team: our Makalu team had successfully reached the summit! After a deeply emotional beginning to the journey with the loss of our dear teammate, Alex Pancoe, the entire team came together on the top, sharing heartfelt hugs and high-fives. We couldn’t be prouder of this incredible achievement — and we know Alex would be, too. As they awaited updates from the world’s fifth-highest peak, our Everest–Lhotse team rejoiced in the news, drawing inspiration as they prepare for their own summit rotation. Expedition leader Garrett Madison shares this latest dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team and today is Sunday, May 11th in the morning here in Nepal.

We’ve got some good news to report – our Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team led by Terray Sylvester, along with climbers Kristin and Aga, and five of our stellar Nepal Sherpas all summited Makalu today! They reported great weather conditions and had a wonderful summit. Now, they’re making their way down to Camp 3 and Camp 2.

So, we’re very happy for our Makalu team! It’s been a great end to their season, despite losing one of the team members, Alex Pancoe, to a likely cardiac arrest in Camp 2 earlier in the season. So, wonderful conclusion to the Makalu expedition!

The Everest team here, most of us are down in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) actually resting and recuperating, getting ready for the final summit rotation. A couple members are up here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) hanging out with myself and guides, Conan and Cacho, Aang Phurba’s up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) managing the Sherpa team at the moment.

So, all is well here on Mount Everest! We’re just watching the forecast and the rope fixing is in, so waiting for the winds to drop a bit and our members to be 100% before we embark on our final summit push!

So, all is well here in Nepal on Everest! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Time to rest and recharge!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest–Lhotse expedition team is done with their acclimatization rotations on the mountain and look ahead to their summit push! After spending several days up at high-altitude building acclimatization, familiarizing themselves with the route, and putting their skills to the test, the team dropped back down to lower elevations where they’ll rest up and get ready for their final push up the mountain. This time, with eyes set on the summit! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team.

We had a great rotation up at Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and 2 (6500m/21,325ft), touched Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), made it back down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) yesterday afternoon. (We’re) resting and relaxing, some of us are going to head down to Namche (3440m/11,290ft) for a little bit of an acclimatization drop to get some thick oxygenated air and recharge, get ready for our final summit rotation, which will start in about a weeks time from base camp.

So, all is well here! We’re just happy that everyone had a great rotation, got some high-altitude, some technical training up on the Lhotse Face. Time to rest and recharge now. Check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Climbing to Camp 3

The team together during their acclimatization rotation.

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest–Lhotse expedition team touched Camp 3 today before descending back down to Camp 2, where they are turning in for the night after a great day high on Mount Everest. There were perfect conditions today, good company, and enjoyable climbing. The team plans to descend back down to base camp tomorrow, where they’ll rest and recover, before looking ahead to their summit rotation! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team – we’re up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft)!

Today is May 7th and today we climbed up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) for acclimatization. It was a beautiful day, awesome views, no wind, no clouds. So, had a great trip up to Camp 3, hung out for a bit, had a few snacks and came back down to Camp 2. Good acclimatization, good technical skills practice. So, we’re feeling very prepared and very ready to come back up here in a week or 10 days for our summit push!

We’re going to head down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) tomorrow for a good, long rest, and then return to make our final summit bid on Everest and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft)!

All is well here on Everest! We’ll check in soon.

Looking down the fixed-lines on the Lhotse Face.

Looking down the fixed-lines on the Lhotse Face.

Nearing Camp 3 with Nuptse behind.

Nearing Camp 3 with Nuptse behind.

Smiles in the Western Cwm.

Smiles in the Western Cwm.

Looking down the Western Cwm on a sunny day in the Himalaya.

Looking down the Western Cwm on a sunny day in the Himalaya.

Alpenglow on peaks surrounding.

Alpenglow on peaks surrounding.

The team stopping for a rest on the Lhotse Face.

The team stopping for a rest on the Lhotse Face.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Hello, from the Western Cwm!

Climbing in the early morning hours through the Khumbu Icefall with Pumori and Everest Base Camp behind.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse team are making great progress on their acclimatization efforts as they move higher up the mountain! In the last few days, they’ve left their base camp, climbing through the Khumbu Icefall and into Camp 1. Today, they enjoyed a nice hike up to Camp 2 and then descended back to Camp 1, with plans to continue up for a few nights at higher camps soon. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition team.

We are up at Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), it is May 4th – May the fourth be with you! We had a great acclimatization hike today, part way up towards Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) in the Western Cwm and had some cloud cover, so it stayed cool for us. Now it’s snowing a little bit. We’re back in Camp 1 enjoying a lunch and settling in for our afternoon rest. We’re going to head up to Camp 2 tomorrow.

All is well here in Camp 1! We’ll check in soon.

Morning light on Pumori as the team climbs from Everest Base Camp to Camp 1.

Morning light on Pumori as the team climbs from Everest Base Camp to Camp 1.

A beautiful morning to be climbing in the Himalayas

A beautiful morning to be climbing in the Himalayas

Navigating up, down, over, and through icy blocks of the Khumbu Icefall

Navigating up, down, over, and through icy blocks of the Khumbu Icefall

Beautiful, blue skies as climbers ascend one of the ladders on the way to Camp 1

Beautiful, blue skies as climbers ascend one of the ladders on the way to Camp 1

Climbing through the Khumbu Icefall

Climbing through the Khumbu Icefall

Crevasse crossing

Crevasse crossing

Climbers ascending one of the many ladders that connect sections of the broken Khumbu Icefall.

Climbers ascending one of the many ladders that connect sections of the broken Khumbu Icefall.

Navigating the Khumbu Icefall with morning light falling upon Lingtren behind.

Navigating the Khumbu Icefall with morning light falling upon Lingtren behind.

Our Mountain Hardwear tent in Camp 1 with Mount Everest and Lhotse behind.

Our Mountain Hardwear tent in Camp 1 with Mount Everest and Lhotse behind.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Heading up soon!

Mount Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition teams are turning in for the night, packed and ready to begin their next acclimatization rotation! The team plans to climb all the way up to Camp 3 over the course of the next few days, building acclimatization and putting their skills to the test along the way as they navigate new terrain on their way to the higher camps. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition team.

Today is May 2nd and we are heading up tonight to start our rotation to the higher camps! We’re going to head up the Khumbu Icefall, spend a couple of nights at Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), and then head up towards Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), spend at least a couple of nights up there, try to touch Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) for further acclimatization and skills practice, and then head on down to base camp.

(We’re) looking forward to getting up high on the mountain and putting our skills to the test here in the icefall, and also getting some bigger and better acclimatization, hopefully some great views up there.

So, all is well here at base camp! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Getting ready for another rotation

Todays training grounds.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest–Lhotse expedition team got back to work today, heading out into the Khumbu Glacier to continue sharpening their skills for the terrain that they’ll face here soon! With their next rotation coming up in the next few days, they’ll leave their base camp, head into the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 and beyond. Everyone is doing great, feeling strong, and about ready to go! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team up here at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft).

Today, we went out and trained, did ladder practice here on the ice towers near base camp, lower Khumbu Glacier. We also had some vertical fixed-lines for ascending-descending, and just dialing our skills and technique, getting ready for our first foray up through the Khumbu Icefall!

Everyone did great today! The team is enjoying our time up here at base camp, good meals, good rest, and lots of movies, and getting organized and ready for our first trip up to the higher camps.

So, all is well here at base camp! We’ll check in soon.

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with the team (photo by Susan Agar)

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with the team (photo by Susan Agar)

Descending fixed-lines in the lower Khumbu Glacier (photo by Susan Agar)

Descending fixed-lines in the lower Khumbu Glacier (photo by Susan Agar)

One of team members navigating the skill course (photo by Susan Agar)

One of team members navigating the skill course (photo by Susan Agar)

Practicing ladder crossing near our base camp (photo by Conan Bliss)

Practicing ladder crossing near our base camp (photo by Conan Bliss)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Rest and relaxation in Everest Base Camp!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition teams are back in base camp after a successful climb on Lobuche Peak in the days prior! After climbing to over 6,100-meters and 20,000-feet, the team is happy to be back and enjoying the comforts that the temporary home has to offer. With their first rotation onto Mount Everest coming up, the team will be back to work shortly preparing for their first trip through the Khumbu Icefall. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition.

We had a great day of rest here at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) after returning from Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft)! As we mentioned before, we had a great climb of Lobuche Peak, fantastic conditions, great views from up there, and everyone on the team did very well.

So, happy to be back at our base camp! We’ve got hot showers, films, big heated dining tent, great meals from our chef Deepak here, and very comfy, cozy accommodations for our rest and recovery as we look forward to some training in the coming days to get prepared for our first climb up through the Khumbu Icefall to the higher camps on our first rotation.

Everyone’s doing well here! All good here at Everest Base Camp and we’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

First rotation is done!

The team together on the summit of Lobuche East!

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition teams continued their acclimatization efforts by climbing Lobuche East over the weekend. This concludes their first acclimatization rotation before they head through the Khumbu Icefall on the next rotation. The team had a great climb, enjoying spectacular views as they climbed swiftly and strongly to the summit. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Lobuche village:

Hello! Today is Monday, April 28 and we are back from our Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) climb.

Yesterday, we summited Lobuche East , the sub-peak of Lobuche Peak just below Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft). We had a great climb, beautiful weather, clear and sunny. We’re back down in Lobuche Lodge (4940m/16,210ft) now and we’re heading back to Everest Base Camp later today.

Terray and the Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team flew from Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft) over to Makalu Base Camp yesterday and got all settled in. It looks like they have a beautiful base camp there at Makalu! We’re wishing them good luck on their climb.

So, all is well here in Nepal! We’ll check in soon.

Ama Dablam as seen from Lobuche High Camp.

Ama Dablam as seen from Lobuche High Camp.

Starting up the route on clear, starry skies.

Starting up the route under clear, starry skies.

Ascending fixed-lines on the way to the summit.

Ascending fixed-lines on the way to the summit.

Looking down the ridge that leads to the summit over clouds below.

Looking down the ridge that leads to the summit over clouds below.

Views of Mount Everest from the top of Lobuche East!

Views of Mount Everest from the top of Lobuche East!

Some of the team on the summit!

Some of the team on the summit!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Puja day in Everest Base Camp!

Our team following the Puja ceremony!

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition teams gathered together today in prayer to ask the mountains for safe passage by way of the Puja ceremony. It was another beautiful day in Everest Base Camp for this important piece of our expeditions! With technical skills review and our Puja ceremony complete, our team plans to descend back down the valley tomorrow towards Lobuche East for our first acclimatization rotation in which we’ll climb to 6119m / 20,075ft. Meanwhile, we’ve said goodby to our Makalu expedition team who is en route to their climbing objective. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison check in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) – Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team.

We are at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft)! We’ve had two great days of training back to back out in the Khumbu Icefall on our ice course doing ascending, repelling on fixed-lines – some really fun, engaging terrain out here.

Today, we had our Puja – our sacred, spiritual ceremony where we ask the mountain for safe passage. Our entire Nepalese staff, our Sherpa team, and a Lama came up from down valley to recite the prayers and offer the the gods the chance for us to have safe passage. So, the Puja ceremony went well today. It was a big success, a beautiful day, a very special ceremony. Tomorrow, we’re going to head down to Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) and do some climbing on Lobuche East Peak (6119m/20,075ft)!

Our Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team left us after four nights here in Everest Base Camp. Terray, Aga, Alex, and Kristin – they’re down in Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft) and heading over to Makalu Base Camp here in a couple of days by helicopter. So, it’s a smaller crew, we’re sad to see them go, but wishing them a great adventure on their climb. And we’re looking forward to more great weather here at Everest Base Camp! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by