Tag Archive for: Summit Success

Lhotse team reaches the summit!

Looking out over the Western Cwm near the summit of Lhotse.

We’re thrilled to relay the message just received from the Madison Mountaineering Lhotse team! Setting off from their high camp with an alpine start, the team climbed through the early morning hours before stepping foot onto the summit of the world’s fourth-highest peak! The summit offered magnificent views of Everest, Makalu, Nuptse, and the other surrounding Himalaya. Now safely back in Camp 2, the team recounts what was an unforgettable day and look forward to continuing their descent to Everest Base Camp tomorrow. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch via satellite phone from the Western Cwm:

This morning we summited Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) in excellent weather! Our team left Lhotse Camp 4 (7,700m / 25,260′) after midnight and stood on the summit in calm conditions with clear skies offering excellent views of the spectacular terrain around us. Then we descended here to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). Tomorrow we plan to descend back to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). Our climbers who summited Lhotse this morning had both previously climbed Everest (8848m/29,032ft). Our Everest + Lhotse combo climbers will make their Lhotse summit bid in the coming days, following their summit attempt on Everest. One of today’s summiteers, Aga Olkowicz, also successfully climbed Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) with us just 11 days ago. All is well here in Camp 2. We’ll be in touch tomorrow with more details!

# Name Country
1 Aga Olkowicz Poland
2 Andras Kassik Estonia
3 Lhakpa Wongchhu Sherpa Nepal
4 Sumbah Sherpa Nepal
5 Terray Sylvester United States of America

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Starting up soon!

Looking up the route from Camp 4 on the South Col.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest expedition team is excited and ready to set off for the summit! The team rested today and made their final preparations before beginning their summit push in just a few hours time. Meanwhile, our Lhotse expedition team stepped onto the summit around 8:00 AM local time, reaching the fourth-highest peak on Earth, and a huge accomplishment! We’re so proud of everyone on the team and send our best wishes for a safe and smooth summit tomorrow on the world’s highest peak. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this pre-summit push dispatch from Camp 4:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in, it’s May 22nd, 4:00 PM.

Our team got up to the South Col, Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) yesterday evening, settled in, had a good nights rest, and today we’re making final preparations to go for the summit tonight, probably leaving around midnight or 1:00 AM!

This morning, our Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team, led by Terray Sylvester made the summit of Lhotse! They reported good conditions. They topped out around 8:00 AM. Congratulations to Terray, Andras, Aga, Lakpang Chu [sp?], and Sumba Sherpa [sp?]. Great job! We’re very proud of them. They topped out on Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) earlier, and now Lhotse, and they’ll be heading down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft).

We’re getting ready to go for the Everest (8848m/29,032ft) summit tonight! Fingers crossed for good weather. The team’s doing great up here! Wish us luck as we set off to climb the highest mountain in the world. Check in soon!

Looking out towards Makalu from the South Col.

Looking out towards Makalu from the South Col.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Back in base camp after the summit!

The team on the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team has safely returned to their base camp after topping out on the world’s fifth-highest peak! Just in time for dinner, the team descended into their camp, concluding another chapter of this challenging expedition. The team climbed under the moon and stars from Camp 3, gaining Makalu’s summit ridge as the sunrise began to light-up the surrounding peaks – a welcome sight after climbing in the dark for so long! With Alex in our hearts, our team stepped onto the summit and embraced, taking in the moment as this dream was realized before turning back and heading down. We’re so proud of this team! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition – today is May the 12th. It’s a beautiful morning here in base camp, sunny and warm, and we are relaxing after our successful summit yesterday morning! We stood on top of the fifth-highest peak on the planet yesterday, about 6:00 AM.

It was a great summit day! We left Camp 3 at about 9:30 PM on May 10th, climbed through the night under a mostly full moon and arrived on Makalu’s summit ridge just before sunrise, which meant we got to watch as the morning sun illuminated the Kangshung Face of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), right next door. We could see headlamps of climbers way up on Everest on the southeast ridge, just below the summit. So yeah, it was a really great summit day and then we descended all the way back down to base camp yesterday evening and arrived in time for dinner at our normal time, 6:00.

It was a great climb and I think the best possible way to wrap up what has been a really difficult time here at Makalu for the whole Madison Mountaineering team after our teammate and friend, Alex Pancoe passed away so suddenly at Camp 2 during our acclimatization rotation. That event just left us all reeling, but we talked it over and it was clear to us that Alex brought, he brought so much stoke to the mountains. He loved being here so much and we were sure that he would have wanted us to keep climbing. So, on the 8th, we realized that we had just enough time to get to the summit in good weather before jet stream winds returned to the top of the mountain, so we went for it.

We will spend the rest of today packing up, wrapping up the expedition and then we are going to start making our way back down to lower elevations! We’ll be in touch.

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Makalu Summit Success!

Our team climbing above base camp earlier in the expedition (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The morning of May 11th brought uplifting news to our Everest–Lhotse expedition team: our Makalu team had successfully reached the summit! After a deeply emotional beginning to the journey with the loss of our dear teammate, Alex Pancoe, the entire team came together on the top, sharing heartfelt hugs and high-fives. We couldn’t be prouder of this incredible achievement — and we know Alex would be, too. As they awaited updates from the world’s fifth-highest peak, our Everest–Lhotse team rejoiced in the news, drawing inspiration as they prepare for their own summit rotation. Expedition leader Garrett Madison shares this latest dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team and today is Sunday, May 11th in the morning here in Nepal.

We’ve got some good news to report – our Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team led by Terray Sylvester, along with climbers Kristin and Aga, and five of our stellar Nepal Sherpas all summited Makalu today! They reported great weather conditions and had a wonderful summit. Now, they’re making their way down to Camp 3 and Camp 2.

So, we’re very happy for our Makalu team! It’s been a great end to their season, despite losing one of the team members, Alex Pancoe, to a likely cardiac arrest in Camp 2 earlier in the season. So, wonderful conclusion to the Makalu expedition!

The Everest team here, most of us are down in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) actually resting and recuperating, getting ready for the final summit rotation. A couple members are up here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) hanging out with myself and guides, Conan and Cacho, Aang Phurba’s up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) managing the Sherpa team at the moment.

So, all is well here on Mount Everest! We’re just watching the forecast and the rope fixing is in, so waiting for the winds to drop a bit and our members to be 100% before we embark on our final summit push!

So, all is well here in Nepal on Everest! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Carstensz climb comes to a close!

Our Carstensz Pyramid expedition has come to a close! That marks the second successful climb in 2025, with two more climbs scheduled later this year. Today, the team flew back to Bali where they’ll spend one last night before saying their goodbye’s and heading back home, with good memories from their time on the highest peak in Oceania. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this closing dispatch for this Carstensz climb:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) private climb – today is March 12th!

Yesterday morning we woke up to starry skies a little bit before dawn in Yellow Valley Base Camp (4285m/14,050ft) up at Carstensz Pyramid. By a little after 6:00 helicopters were landing in base camp, so we caught a really scenic flight over the mine and down across the forests of West Papua and back to Timika (31m/103ft)! When we arrived here, it was a bit too late for flights back to Bali (4m/13ft), so we spent one last night in our really pleasant hotel here in Timika and this morning we’re getting ready to catch out flight back to Denpasar and the beaches of Bali.

So, all in all it’s been a really great trip and successful summit. I’m looking forward to coming back again! So, this will be the last dispatch of this trip.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Waiting out the weather

Final steps to the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid expedition team spent the day relaxing in base camp and recounting good memories from the day prior up on the mountain. While the team hoped that they’d be able to fly back to Timika today, some clouds prevented helicopters from flying. But, that didn’t stop them from soaking in the sunshine and making the most of their time as the expedition nears its end. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) private climb – today is March 10th.

Today we hoped to fly by helicopter back to Timika (31m/103ft). But, although the morning was sunny, a few clouds lower in the valley prevented helicopters from getting through. So instead,  we spent a peaceful day here in base camp (4285m/14,050ft) and we will try again tomorrow.

So all is well and we’ll be in touch!

Flying to base camp (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Flying to base camp (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Scott, climbing the systems of ledges that leads to Carstensz’ summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Scott, climbing the systems of ledges that leads to Carstensz’ summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Gaining the summit ridge at about 15,500’ (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Gaining the summit ridge at about 15,500’ (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The famous cable crossing (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The famous cable crossing (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Negotiating the ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Negotiating the ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Another successful climb on Carstensz Pyramid!

Summit photo atop Carstensz Pyramid!

It comes with great excitement to share that another Madison Mountaineering team has successfully reached the summit of Carstensz Pyramid! This marks the last of the ‘seven summits‘ for our climber, Scott, and the last of our climbs on the highest peak in Oceania for the current season. A huge congratulations goes out to our team who enjoyed excellent weather for the their time on the mountain, making great time up the route as they navigated engaging terrain on their way to the summit. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this celebratory dispatch following their summit on Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) private climb – today is March 9.

Today we summited Carstensz Pyramid, the highest point in Oceania and one of the ‘seven summits‘, depending on how you count. It was a fantastic climb! We left camp a little after 3:30 and stood on the summit around 7:00. It was a quick climb and excellent conditions! There was a high overcast which kept things cool as we came down, but the rock was dry and the route was in great shape. It was really spectacular moving up the fun and varied terrain that takes you up the series of ledges and steep sections up to the summit ridge, and then across the famous cable crossing, and then along the ridge winding around towers with a few crack step overs, and onto the summit!

We dropped back down in time for lunch and just had a nice meal of potato-beef soup, fresh greens, curried chicken, and rice! So, now we’re heading to bed and we’re looking forward to hopefully, hopefully flying out tomorrow depending on the weather.

Okay, yeah! Great news and the last element of this is that this was the final one of the ‘seven summits‘ for our guest, Scott! So, it was great to be able to join him for that milestone.

All is well here in West Papua and we’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Expedition wrap-up!

The Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of Carstensz Pyramid on February 27, 2025!

The first of our Carstensz Pyramid expeditions in 2025 has come to a close. Despite a delay getting to the mountain, our team remained patient and were treated with a glorious summit day climbing through the night and emerging above the clouds as they topped out on the highest peak in Oceania! The team is now making their way back to Bali and then onto their homes, with good memories and new friends from the expedition. Congratulations to everyone on the team, and a special shoutout goes out to our climbers, Jeff and Bjarni who successfully completed their ‘seven summits‘ journey! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this celebratory dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) expedition team.

We had a great climb of Carstensz Pyramid! Everybody who stuck with the expedition and made it up to base camp made it to the summit! Congratulations to our team, Robin and Lauren, Daniel, Bjarni and Jeff. Awesome climb, very winter-like conditions up there, and was the last of the ‘seven summits‘ for Bjarni and Robin. Big congrats finishing the ‘seven summits!’

We’ve been delayed a little bit on the flight out of here due to weather and some situation on the mountain. But fortunately, three of our team got off a few days ago and myself, Jeff, and Bjarni are waiting to fly out, hopefully tomorrow. Fingers crossed, hopefully good weather in the forecast!

We’re looking forward to our next Carstensz Pyramid team with Terray starting up here shortly!

The team en route to the summit!

The team en route to the summit!

Crossing an airy traverse on the way to the summit.

Crossing an airy traverse on the way to the summit.

All smiles amongst the clouds!

All smiles amongst the clouds!

Above the clouds and clear visibility of the route to the summit.

Above the clouds and clear visibility of the route to the summit.

Another airy traverse that must be crossed to get to the summit.

Another airy traverse that must be crossed to get to the summit.

Climbers nearing the top!

Climbers nearing the top!

Climbers, Lauren and Robin celebrating the completion of Robin's 'seven summits' journey on top of Carstensz Pyramid! Nice job, Robin.

Climbers, Lauren and Robin celebrating the completion of Robin’s ‘seven summits’ journey on top of Carstensz Pyramid! Nice job, Robin.

Summit!

Summit!

More summit photos.

More summit photos.

A climber crossing one of the traverses en route to the summit.

A climber crossing one of the traverses en route to the summit.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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All teams for the 2024 / 2025 Aconcagua season reach the summit!

The January 5, 2025 expedition team on the summit!

We are so proud of all our teams who climbed the mighty “Stone Sentinel” this season! The 2024 / 2025 Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua season has come to a close. Climbers have returned safely back to their homes where they recount memories with friends and family, and ease back into their daily lives. It was an excellent season on the highest peak in all of the America’s with every one of our teams landing boots on the summit, with nearly 100% summit success, climbed via two different routes on the mountain!

The season kicked off in early December, and four more teams reached the summit in January and February. Climbing via the Normal Route, the teams had favorable weather overall and were treated with days of sunny skies for their time in the Andes! The season was capped off with two teams reaching the summit in consecutive days on February 6 and 7. One of the teams was led by legendary mountaineer, Ed Viesturs climbing the Normal Route under clear, blue skies after several days of high winds near the summit. On the next day, a private team led by Garrett Madison stepped onto the summit after climbing the Polish Glacier Direct route, an aesthetic and far less climbed, technical route with similarities to K2. A special congratulations goes out to our guide Cacho Beiza who now has over 60 summits on Aconcagua!

We’re so thankful for the opportunity to share this time with amazing clients in a special place! It’s been another unforgettable year and we’re already looking forward to coming back next season. Reach out to our team now to get signed up! To higher places…

The December 7, 2024 expedition team on the summit!

The December 7, 2024 expedition team on the summit!

The January 24, 2025 expedition team on the summit!

The January 24, 2025 expedition team on the summit!

Climbing amongst penitentes on the way up the mountain.

Climbing amongst penitentes on the way up the mountain.

The team together on a beautiful day in the Andes!

The team together on a beautiful day in the Andes!

Our guide team, including Ed Viesturs on the summit on February 6, 2025.

Our guide team, including Ed Viesturs on the summit on February 6, 2025.

Sunset on Aconcagua!

Sunset on Aconcagua!

Our private team who climbed via the Polish Glacier on the summit, February 7, 2025.

Our private team who climbed via the Polish Glacier on the summit, February 7, 2025.

Up the Polish Glacier route!

Up the Polish Glacier route!

Climbing through technical terrain on the Polish Glacier.

Climbing through technical terrain on the Polish Glacier.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Mount Vinson season has come to a close!

On the summit during our third Mount Vinson expedition of the season!

The 2024 / 2025 Antarctic season has come to a close for the Madison Mountaineering expedition teams! All three of our teams safely and successfully reached the summit of Mount Vinson, with 100% of our climbers and guides reaching the roof of Antarctica – a perfect season on the ice! Despite some challenging weather along the way, our teams had beautiful summit days and shared time well spent with friends new and old in a truly magical place. We’re already looking forward to heading back next season! Registration is open now to book your spot on one of next seasons climbs. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Aconcagua:

Hey! This is Garrett calling in just to conclude our Mount Vinson (4892m/16,050ft) expedition season. We had three incredible expeditions in Antarctica on Mount Vinson this past season!

All three trips had 100% success. We had beautiful summit days, great route conditions. We had to wait and have patience while some of the high winds dropped down up on the mountain. But, we put in the time and our climbers stayed positive. We all made it and just had spectacular summit days and a great time on the mountain in Antarctica, beautiful views, and good times meeting other climbers making lifelong friendships, hopefully, and climbing together again someday! So, just can’t reiterate what an awesome season it was in Antarctica!

Thanks again to Antarctic Logistics for their support and making it all happen for us! We can’t wait to get back to Mount Vinson next season. Join us for the most incredible, magical experience of a lifetime!

Alright, signing off for a successful Vinson season. Until next time!

All smiles under blue skies on Vinson Massif!

All smiles under blue skies on Vinson Massif!

En route to the summit!

En route to the summit!

The second Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of Mount Vinson!

The second Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of Mount Vinson!

The first Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of Mount Vinson!

The first Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of Mount Vinson!

 

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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