Tag Archive for: Summit rotation

Summit rotation about to begin!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives.

Here we go! The highly anticipated Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu expedition’s summit rotation is about to begin. Despite multiple hurdles along the way, the team has stayed motivated and in good spirits. With the climbing set to resume again tomorrow and a possible summit date on October 13, the team is psyched and ready to go! After a good nights rest in our advanced base camp, we’ll shoulder our packs and begin the move up the mountain. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Cho Oyu:

Hello, this is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu expedition team.

Today is October 10th, and we are finally going to make our summit rotation. We’re heading up tomorrow on the 11th to Camp 1, hopefully Camp 2 on the 12th, and then go for the summit on the 13th. So wish us luck!

Looks like the winds are finally dropping here on the night of the 11th or morning of the 12th. So fingers crossed we have good conditions. No one’s been up on the mountain since before the big storm. So, hopefully the high winds have scoured the upper slopes and it’s good climbing and clear skies ahead!

So, we’ll check in soon! All’s well here on Cho Oyu.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Watching for our window

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives.

The Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu team is settled back into advanced base camp and waiting for their weather window to move up the mountain and go for the summit. While we’ve been enjoying the sunny skies in camp, high winds continue to hit the upper mountain. The team plans to continue evaluating weather and route conditions, hoping for an opportunity to move up the mountain in the next few days! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this update from advanced base camp on Cho Oyu:

Hello, this is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu expedition team!

We are back up here in our advanced base camp and it seems like the weather has been improving. We’ve got some sunshine, but the winds are quite strong at the moment. Sounds like they’re going to be strong through about the 11th of October. So, we’re just watching the forecast, and boy, there’s a lot of snow here in base camp from the big snowstorm, probably about a meter or so.

But we’re happy to be here with our Sherpa team, and we’re doing well. We’ll check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Back in Advanced Base Camp

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives.

The Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu expedition team returned to their advanced base camp today which sits at the foot of the climbing route. After spending the last few days at lower elevations, the team is psyched and ready for a possible summit attempt in the coming days! The team will evaluate weather and route conditions before starting up the mountain. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this update from Cho Oyu:

Hello, this is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu expedition team – today’s October 7th.

We have returned to advanced base camp. We left Tingri this morning at 8:00 a.m., and drove up to the trailhead and started trekking at 9:00 a.m and got into camp about 6:30-7:00 p.m. this evening.

So it was a good day! We’re glad to be here, and a lot of snow here in our advanced base camp. But, everybody’s doing well. We’re looking forward to a good night’s rest!
Nice to be reacquainted here with our Sherpa team. They’ve done a great job holding down camp here the last few days, and we’re going to see what lies ahead! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Waiting to move back to ABC

Waiting out the storm in Tingri!

The Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu expedition team is in Tingri, waiting out the snow storm that hit the Himalayas over the last few days. A huge shoutout to our Sherpa team who has been keeping the camp in order! Without them, these expeditions would not be possible. The team is looking forward to moving back up to camp again soon! Once back in advanced base camp, our sights will turn to the summit with the highly anticipated summit rotation set to start when weather and route conditions allow. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Tibet:

Hello, this is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu (8,188m/26,864ft) expedition team.

We are down in Tingri at about 14,500 feet. We dropped down a couple of days ago from advanced base camp to wait out the big snowstorm that hit the Himalayas the last couple of days. Sounds like our advanced base camp got about four feet of snow. So we’re very thankful that our Sherpa team was up and taking care of our tents to make sure they didn’t collapse under the big snowfall.

We’re going to try to head up to advanced base camp tomorrow if we can to rejoin our Sherpa team there and set our focus on the climb of the upper mountain.

So fingers crossed we get some good weather and good route conditions in the days ahead, and we’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Resting up for the summit rotation!

Cho Oyu

The Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu expedition team is back in Tingri resting up and getting ready to make their summit rotation! With some weather expected to roll in over the weekend, the team is taking advantage of the lower altitude to rest, breathe in some extra oxygen, and enjoy a few acclimatization hikes. Once the weather clears, the plan is to head back up to Advanced Base Camp on Monday and continue the climb! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Tibet:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu expedition team.

We have dropped down from Advanced Base Camp to Tingri at about 14,000 feet to wait out the big snow storm that’s expected to hit later tonight for a couple of days over the weekend. So, our plan is to hunker down here in Tingri and enjoy the lower elevation, soak up the oxygen, get in a few hikes, and then we’ll head back up to Advanced Base Camp on Monday to resume our expedition climb.

Hopefully we get lucky with some good conditions up there on the upper mountain! We had a good first rotation last week – couple nights at Camp 1, we climbed higher up towards Camp 2. Beautiful views up there, but we decided to drop back down to rest up. Fingers crossed for good weather next week and hopefully a summit attempt!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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First rotation done on Cho Oyu

Looking up towards the summit from Camp 1 on Cho Oyu

The Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu expedition team is back in their base camp after a successful rotation up the mountain to Camp 1 and beyond. Climbing to nearly 22,000 feet, the team had excellent weather, great views, and good times on the world’s sixth-highest peak! The team is in good health and high spirits, glad to be back at base camp enjoying some well-earned rest before the next phase of the expedition. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison check in with this dispatch from Cho Oyu:

Hello, this is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu (8,188m/26,864ft) expedition team.

Today is September 30th, and we’ve just come back down to base camp from our first rotation up in Camp 1 (6,400m/21,000 ft) for a couple of nights. We climbed up a little bit higher on the route to about 21,700 feet, had some good weather up there, some nice views, and now we’re back down in base camp.

We’re going to rest and get ready for the summit push here. It looks like there might be a big storm coming in on October 4th and 5th, so we might have to delay until after that big precipitation event, so we’ll keep watching the weather.

Meanwhile, everyone’s doing good. We’re happy to be back down in base camp and looking forward to some good rest here.

All is well on Cho Oyu! We’ll check in soon.

Looking out the tent door in Camp 1

Looking out the tent door in Camp 1

Alpenglow on Cho Oyu as seen from base camp

Alpenglow on Cho Oyu as seen from base camp

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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From the top of the world!

Members of our team on the summit!

It comes with great pleasure to share that word came in on the morning of May 23rd local time that the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team had topped out at the highest place on Earth! Albeit a bit blustery as the team left the South Col, the team was rewarded with excellent views as they climbed to the summit. After celebrating their achievement, snapping some photographs, and taking in the moment, the team started their descent and have safely made it back to Camp 4 on the South Col. Some of the team will continue their descent soon. Others have their eyes set on Lhotse, the fourth highest peak on the planet! A huge congratulations goes out to the entire team — we’re so proud! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the summit of Mount Everest:

Hey! We’re up here at the summit of Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft)! Beautiful day, 360 degree views as far as the eye can see. It was a windy one, pretty blustery coming out of high camp (7900m/25,919ft) this morning. A lot of climbers turned back, but we kept going. We got lucky, so really proud of our team. Everyone did great today! Feeling blessed to be up here at the top of Everest – top of the world. Summit #15 for me and looking forward to a safe descent. We’ll check in soon!

Climbing up the Mount Everest's Southwest Ridge to the summit.

Climbing up Mount Everest’s Southwest Ridge to the summit.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Lhotse team reaches the summit!

Looking out over the Western Cwm near the summit of Lhotse.

We’re thrilled to relay the message just received from the Madison Mountaineering Lhotse team! Setting off from their high camp with an alpine start, the team climbed through the early morning hours before stepping foot onto the summit of the world’s fourth-highest peak! The summit offered magnificent views of Everest, Makalu, Nuptse, and the other surrounding Himalaya. Now safely back in Camp 2, the team recounts what was an unforgettable day and look forward to continuing their descent to Everest Base Camp tomorrow. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch via satellite phone from the Western Cwm:

This morning we summited Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) in excellent weather! Our team left Lhotse Camp 4 (7,700m / 25,260′) after midnight and stood on the summit in calm conditions with clear skies offering excellent views of the spectacular terrain around us. Then we descended here to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). Tomorrow we plan to descend back to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). Our climbers who summited Lhotse this morning had both previously climbed Everest (8848m/29,032ft). Our Everest + Lhotse combo climbers will make their Lhotse summit bid in the coming days, following their summit attempt on Everest. One of today’s summiteers, Aga Olkowicz, also successfully climbed Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) with us just 11 days ago. All is well here in Camp 2. We’ll be in touch tomorrow with more details!

# Name Country
1 Aga Olkowicz Poland
2 Andras Kassik Estonia
3 Lhakpa Wongchhu Sherpa Nepal
4 Sumbah Sherpa Nepal
5 Terray Sylvester United States of America

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Starting up soon!

Looking up the route from Camp 4 on the South Col.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest expedition team is excited and ready to set off for the summit! The team rested today and made their final preparations before beginning their summit push in just a few hours time. Meanwhile, our Lhotse expedition team stepped onto the summit around 8:00 AM local time, reaching the fourth-highest peak on Earth, and a huge accomplishment! We’re so proud of everyone on the team and send our best wishes for a safe and smooth summit tomorrow on the world’s highest peak. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this pre-summit push dispatch from Camp 4:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in, it’s May 22nd, 4:00 PM.

Our team got up to the South Col, Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) yesterday evening, settled in, had a good nights rest, and today we’re making final preparations to go for the summit tonight, probably leaving around midnight or 1:00 AM!

This morning, our Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team, led by Terray Sylvester made the summit of Lhotse! They reported good conditions. They topped out around 8:00 AM. Congratulations to Terray, Andras, Aga, Lakpang Chu [sp?], and Sumba Sherpa [sp?]. Great job! We’re very proud of them. They topped out on Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) earlier, and now Lhotse, and they’ll be heading down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft).

We’re getting ready to go for the Everest (8848m/29,032ft) summit tonight! Fingers crossed for good weather. The team’s doing great up here! Wish us luck as we set off to climb the highest mountain in the world. Check in soon!

Looking out towards Makalu from the South Col.

Looking out towards Makalu from the South Col.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Settled in on the South Col

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team braved blustery conditions today on their move from Camp 3 to Camp 4, where they are now settled in on the South Col, nestled between Mount Everest and Lhotse. Camp 4 serves as the highest camp on the mountain and is where the team will launch their summit push from. The team plans to rest tomorrow before getting an alpine start the next day, targeting the top of the world on May 23rd! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch via satellite phone from Camp 4 on Mount Everest:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) climbing team.

Today is May 21st and today we climbed from Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on Mount Everest at the South Col. Everyone did great! We left Camp 3 at about 6:00 AM and went up the Lhotse Face. There were some blustery conditions, some wind, some snow, but the team did great. We made it in here to the South Col here at Camp 4 this afternoon, set up our tents, got moved into our camp, and are getting ready for dinner. The plan is to rest tomorrow, May 22nd, and then leave at about midnight or 1:00 AM and go for the summit, hopefully reaching the top early around sunrise on May 23rd.

So, everyone’s doing well up here! We’re in good spirits and fingers crossed for (garbled)…

Everyone’s doing great! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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