Tag Archive for: Summit rotation

Summit Rotation Delayed

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

After an alpine start to their day, the team is back in Everest Base Camp (EBC) due to a collapse in the icefall. Our team is all safe and back to their beds, with hopes that the route gets reopened soon, so that they can move up the mountain tomorrow. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this brief update from EBC:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team. Today is May 18th, it’s about 2:30 in the morning here at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft). We set out two or three hours ago for our first rotation to move up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), but after leaving base camp and just about getting into the icefall, we encountered some climbers coming back down who had tried to go up, and had encountered a collapse in the icefall where the route was broken about half the way up.

So, we’re going to rest today and hopefully the icefall doctors can get up there and repair that section of the route that’s broken, and then our plan is to go again tomorrow. So, one day behind our anticipated schedule, but everyone’s doing well here! Good practice, good dry run this morning, looking forward to getting some sleep and then going for it again tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Go Time!

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison teaching the team how to use our oxygen system. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

All the training and preparation is done, and there’s only one thing left to do! The team is settled into their base camp homes for a few more hours of shut eye before they depart out of base camp, and once again, onto the mountain. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison lays out todays plan as the team gets an alpine start in just a few short hours:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. Today is May 17th and tonight we are starting our summit rotation, heading up from Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). We’re departing in a few hours time, around 1:00 AM. Hopefully we’ll have a smooth climb up through the Khumbu Icefall and get up to Camp 2 mid day.

So, we’re looking forward to kicking things off here! The weather looks great, crowds have thinned, we’ve done all of our training and preparation, and we’re ready to go! So, very excited to be headed up the mountain and attempting to summit Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse.

Guide, Scott Webster and climber, Stevie Hornik. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Scott Webster and climber, Stevie Hornik. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Danah Al Ali practicing technical skills near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Danah Al Ali practicing technical skills near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Eva Perglerova ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Eva Perglerova ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rich Draves practicing ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rich Draves practicing ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Stevie Hornik and Peter Horsman practicing with oxygen equipment. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Stevie Hornik and Peter Horsman practicing with oxygen equipment. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Erwin Visser and Rich Draves practicing with oxygen equipment under the instruction of Garrett Madison. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Erwin Visser and Rich Draves practicing with oxygen equipment under the instruction of Garrett Madison. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit rotation set to start!

Guide, Cacho Beiza helping climbers, Rick Irvine and Serge Larouche polish their technical skills on the Khumbu Glacier near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Here we go! With good weather in the forecast, technical trainings complete, and acclimatization done, the team is primed and ready to make their summit push! The team has one more day of rest and preparation before they, once again, venture through the Khumbu Icefall and up the mountain. Only this time, with plans to go for the summit! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition. Today is May 16th and we are preparing to head up soon to start our summit rotation!

Today, we did a little training review, went for a short hike, went over our oxygen systems and talked through what to expect on the summit push! Tomorrow, we’re going to rest and organize our final equipment, and then plan to head up tomorrow night, about 24 hours from now to start our summit rotation.

We’re looking at May 23rd for our potential Everest summit date. So, fingers crossed the weather holds, the conditions are good, and we get lucky! We’re excited, this is what we’ve been working for all year and we’re looking forward to get the climb underway.

Climber, Rick Irvine training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza helping climbers, Rick Irvine and Serge Larouche polish their technical skills on the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza helping climbers, Rick Irvine and Serge Larouche polish their technical skills on the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Serge Larouche training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Serge Larouche training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Team at Camp 4

Just received a sat phone call from Garrett.  The team is tucked in at Camp 4 on the South Col of Everest.  Everyone did really well today on the climb up from Camp 3.  They may take a rest day and then go for the summit on the 23rd.  The sat phone call is very garbled and we will be working on a transcription and will update this dispatch soon:

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Camp 3 on the Lhotse face

Camp 3 on the Lhotse face

Our Everest team made the move up to Camp 3 on the Lhotse face today and looks to be in position for a summit attempt on May 22nd.  The weather is looking good and the team is feeling strong and healthy.  Garrett Madison, expedition leader, provides this update:

Helllo, this is Garrett calling in for the Everest climbing team.  Today we left Camp 2 at 5:00 AM and climbed up the Lhotse face to Camp 3.  We made it to Camp 3 by about 9:30 AM.  Everyone did great!  We set up our tents, moved into camp, had some ramen noddles, and then relaxed before dinner.  Our plan is to move up to Camp 4 tomorrow.  The weather’s looking really good right now.  Everybody is doing great – feeling healthly and strong and enjoying the good weather and nice views from up here at Camp 3.  We’ll check in soon.  Thanks!

(photo:  Everest Camp 3 – Madison Mountaineering archives)

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Heading to Camp 3 tomorrow

Everest Camp 2

The Everest team is heading to Camp 3 tomorrow to start the summit attempt.  The weather forecast is looking favorable.  Here’s expedition leader, Garrett Madison’s, update via sat phone:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Everest team.  Today is Sunday, May 19th and we had a nice rest day at Camp 2 as we have been watching the weather carefully and determining which day we want to move up for our summit attempt.  Our plan is to move up tomorrow, May 20th, to Camp 3.  Everybody’s doing great here, all packed and ready to head up from Camp 2 on the Lhotse face up to Camp 3.  And it looks like the weather forecast is playing out into our favor – it looks like good weather for the next four or five days.  So fingers crossed that the forecast holds true.  All’s well here at Advanced Base Camp, Camp 2 on Mount Everest.  Thanks for checking in!

(photo:  Madison Mountaineering archives from earlier this season)

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Watching the Weather

Camp 2

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Everest team.  We are up at Camp 2 right now and everybody’s doing well.  We are taking a rest day and watching the weather.  We are also watching some teams come down off the Lhotse face after their summit attempts.  But the main thing is that we are just making sure that we’ve got a good weather window before we head up.  We may head up tonight or the following day.  We not exactly sure yet, still waiting for a couple of weather forecasts to come in.  But, everyone’s doing good here, the weather’s improving, and we are looking forward to a summit attempt here in the next few days!

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Team at Camp 2

Camp 2 on Everest - our advanced base camp

Now on their summit rotation, the team climbed from base camp (5307m/17,411ft) to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) today.  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, provides today’s update via satellite phone from Camp 2:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Everest climbing team.  Today is May 17th, and we awoke at about 1:00 AM and left at 2:00 AM from base camp.  We had a beautiful, bright Moonlit night climbing up through the Khumbu Icefall on our way up to Camp 1 and then onward to Camp 2.  We all made it to Camp 2 today and had a leisurely afternoon.  We’re just going to reassess the weather forecast tomorrow, take a rest day, and then think about potentially moving up towards Camp 3 and Camp 4 on a summit attempt.  So, all’s well here in Camp 2, everybody’s doing great, and we’re tucked in after dinner getting ready for a nice night of sleep.  We’ll check in tomorrow.  ‘nite!

(photo:  Camp 2 from this season’s previous rotation)

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Game Time!

Photo of Everest Base Camp with a nearly full Moon above the Western Cwm

Game time!  Our Everest main team is heading up tonight (Nepal time) for their summit rotation!  Stay tuned to these dispatches and our Amazon Alexa flash briefing for up to date coverage.  Meanwhile, the climbing group of Kenton Cool, Michael Lavelle,  are safely down to Camp 2 and descending to base camp tomorrow after their summit success!  Here’s Garrett reporting in just before turning in for some rest before the alpine start of 1:00 AM:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Everest team.  We are leaving tonight to head up to Camp 2 for our summit rotation!  This will be our final trip up the mountain for hopefully a summit here somewhere around May 21st, 22nd, or 23rd depending on the weather and route conditions.  Our team is doing great!  We had a team meeting today, got everything packed, organized, and we are excited to head up and see what lies ahead on Mount Everest!  Fingers crossed for good weather and hopefully a good summit!!

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Day 37: All Madison Everest Summit teams in position and preparing to move up!

Ready To Move For Summit Push!

Today our madison everest team climbers with guides Garrett Madison, Conan Bliss, & Sid Pattison along with climbers Josh, Matt, Randy, Tym, & David are resting in base camp up . They are waiting to begin the summit rotation, this is the final rotation on Mount Everest and hopefully will culminate in reaching the summit! The weather has been windy, more so than the specialized weather forecasts have predicted. So, we have been conservative in our decision making and decided to hold here in base camp until the weather trend looks suitable for us to move us.

Then our Everest climbers will climb from Everest base camp through the Khumbu Icefall and negotiate the many ladders which span crevasses, sometimes about 20 ft. (6m) in width, along with the steep ice and vertical sections of the route. We will go up past Camp 1 through the Western CWM (Valley) to Camp 2, our Advanced Base Camp and from there take a rest day to re evaluate the weather, route conditions, etc.

Our 2 advance teams are already enroute on the final summit rotation! Ed & Ant, our first team, are at Camp 2, having moved up from Everest base camp 2 days ago, and are assessing the mountain conditions which includes the weather, the rope fixing progress, etc.

Our second advance team with Kenton, Ben, and Mark left Everest base camp yesterday and are currently also at Camp 2. They reported very good conditions in the Khumbu Icefall and after arriving at Camp 2 are also reassessing the mountain conditions in preparation for moving up higher on Everest.

Rope Fixing Update!

Our rope fixing Sherpas moved up to the South Col (Camp 4) yesterday in preparation to fix ropes from there to the Balcony (27,500 ft. / 8,333m), despite strong winds on the Lhotse Face. Yesterday we had a huge wind storm on Everest that lasted through the night and many teams lost tents at Camp 2, fortunately we had our entire Sherpa team (22 Sherpas plus camp staff) in our Camp 2 (Advanced Base Camp) so they were able to secure and protect our camp during this massive wind event. Thankfully, our Sherpas reached the South Col (Camp 4) and established a camp there, and then commenced the first part of the rope fixing project today, reaching the Balcony (27,500 ft. / 8333m).

Weather & Other Update!

If the weather is good, and mountain conditions are favorable (they reported deep snow on the route), and our team has the physical energy and mental fortitude, then hopefully our Sherpas will be able to finish the summit rope fixing and open the route by the end of May 12th, so that the route will be open for all climbers on Mount Everest by May 13th.

This is our plan, and with determination and good luck we expect our 4 teams of climbers (Sherpa rope fixing team, advance team of Ed & Ant, second team of Kenton / Ben/ Mark, and third team of Garrett / Conan / Sid with Josh / Matt / Tym / Randy / David to be reaching the summit of Mount Everest between May 12th and May 18th, weather pending! Fortunately the weather forecast looks good through May 21st, so we have a very good weather window in which to make our summit attempts. Thanks for your kind thoughts and prayers! We hope Mount Everest (‘Sagarmatha’ in Nepal) will grant us safe passage to the top of her peak and back!

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