Tag Archive for: Summit rotation

Tucked in at Camp 2

Climbing through the icefall in the early morning hours of May 17.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest–Lhotse expedition team climbed through the Khumbu Icefall in the early morning hours of May 17 on their way to Camp 2, marking the start of their summit rotation. With no crowds and good conditions, the team moved swiftly through the complicated terrain of the icefall and reached Camp 2 in good time. Now, the team plans to take a rest day before moving up to higher camps! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition, we are up here at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft).

We had a great climb from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) up through the Khumbu Icefall early this morning, we left at 1:00 AM and got up to Camp 2 about mid-day. It wasn’t crowded at all, good conditions, nice and cool for a good part of the day, then the sun came out in the afternoon.

But the team’s all settled in here at Camp 2. We’re having dinner and we’re excited for our rest day tomorrow! Beautiful conditions up here on Everest! Fingers crossed we’ll get to move up in a couple days time to push higher to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on our summit rotation.

All is well! We’ll check in soon.

Headlamps piercing the darkness and illuminating the route ahead.

Headlamps piercing the darkness and illuminating the route ahead.

Starting up through the Khumbu Icefall!

Starting up through the Khumbu Icefall!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit rotation about to start!

The team together during the first rotation on Mount Everest.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team are about to begin their summit rotation! Under the cover of darkness, the team will emerge from their base camp tents, strap on their crampons, dawn their packs, and set out for higher places. They’ll first climb through the Khumbu Icefall and up to Camp 2, before taking a rest day and then moving higher up the mountain. Let’s do this! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team.

We are heading out early this morning on May 17th from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) to climb up to Camp 2, starting off on our summit rotation! Our plan is to head up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), take a rest day, and then if all is looking good, we’ll head up the Lhotse Face towards Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft), and eventually the summit.

The team’s doing well, everyone’s feeling healthy and strong, very excited, all packed up and prepared, and ready to go! So, we’re looking forward to what lies ahead and we’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Prepping for the summit rotation!

The team together on an acclimatization hike above Everest Base Camp with Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse behind.

The Madison Mountaineering team is hard at work getting ready for their push to the summit! They are planning to set off from Everest Base Camp in a few days time, heading for higher camps and with their sights set on the top of the world. The team is dialing everything in now, from their oxygen systems to their climbing kits. It won’t be long until they are on their way! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team – today is Thursday, May 15, we’re in Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft).

All of our members have come back from their rest down valley in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) and beyond. Everyone’s doing great here in base camp! We went for an acclimatization hike today up to Pumori Base Camp and had wonderful views looking back over at Everest, Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft). So, we’re just going through all of our oxygen systems now and plan for the next rotation while we press for the summit! We’re planning to leave in a couple of days and head up, maybe target around the 22nd of May.

So, all is well here in base camp! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Back in base camp after the summit!

The team on the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team has safely returned to their base camp after topping out on the world’s fifth-highest peak! Just in time for dinner, the team descended into their camp, concluding another chapter of this challenging expedition. The team climbed under the moon and stars from Camp 3, gaining Makalu’s summit ridge as the sunrise began to light-up the surrounding peaks – a welcome sight after climbing in the dark for so long! With Alex in our hearts, our team stepped onto the summit and embraced, taking in the moment as this dream was realized before turning back and heading down. We’re so proud of this team! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition – today is May the 12th. It’s a beautiful morning here in base camp, sunny and warm, and we are relaxing after our successful summit yesterday morning! We stood on top of the fifth-highest peak on the planet yesterday, about 6:00 AM.

It was a great summit day! We left Camp 3 at about 9:30 PM on May 10th, climbed through the night under a mostly full moon and arrived on Makalu’s summit ridge just before sunrise, which meant we got to watch as the morning sun illuminated the Kangshung Face of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), right next door. We could see headlamps of climbers way up on Everest on the southeast ridge, just below the summit. So yeah, it was a really great summit day and then we descended all the way back down to base camp yesterday evening and arrived in time for dinner at our normal time, 6:00.

It was a great climb and I think the best possible way to wrap up what has been a really difficult time here at Makalu for the whole Madison Mountaineering team after our teammate and friend, Alex Pancoe passed away so suddenly at Camp 2 during our acclimatization rotation. That event just left us all reeling, but we talked it over and it was clear to us that Alex brought, he brought so much stoke to the mountains. He loved being here so much and we were sure that he would have wanted us to keep climbing. So, on the 8th, we realized that we had just enough time to get to the summit in good weather before jet stream winds returned to the top of the mountain, so we went for it.

We will spend the rest of today packing up, wrapping up the expedition and then we are going to start making our way back down to lower elevations! We’ll be in touch.

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Makalu Summit Success!

Our team climbing above base camp earlier in the expedition (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The morning of May 11th brought uplifting news to our Everest–Lhotse expedition team: our Makalu team had successfully reached the summit! After a deeply emotional beginning to the journey with the loss of our dear teammate, Alex Pancoe, the entire team came together on the top, sharing heartfelt hugs and high-fives. We couldn’t be prouder of this incredible achievement — and we know Alex would be, too. As they awaited updates from the world’s fifth-highest peak, our Everest–Lhotse team rejoiced in the news, drawing inspiration as they prepare for their own summit rotation. Expedition leader Garrett Madison shares this latest dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team and today is Sunday, May 11th in the morning here in Nepal.

We’ve got some good news to report – our Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team led by Terray Sylvester, along with climbers Kristin and Aga, and five of our stellar Nepal Sherpas all summited Makalu today! They reported great weather conditions and had a wonderful summit. Now, they’re making their way down to Camp 3 and Camp 2.

So, we’re very happy for our Makalu team! It’s been a great end to their season, despite losing one of the team members, Alex Pancoe, to a likely cardiac arrest in Camp 2 earlier in the season. So, wonderful conclusion to the Makalu expedition!

The Everest team here, most of us are down in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) actually resting and recuperating, getting ready for the final summit rotation. A couple members are up here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) hanging out with myself and guides, Conan and Cacho, Aang Phurba’s up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) managing the Sherpa team at the moment.

So, all is well here on Mount Everest! We’re just watching the forecast and the rope fixing is in, so waiting for the winds to drop a bit and our members to be 100% before we embark on our final summit push!

So, all is well here in Nepal on Everest! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Time to rest and recharge!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest–Lhotse expedition team is done with their acclimatization rotations on the mountain and look ahead to their summit push! After spending several days up at high-altitude building acclimatization, familiarizing themselves with the route, and putting their skills to the test, the team dropped back down to lower elevations where they’ll rest up and get ready for their final push up the mountain. This time, with eyes set on the summit! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team.

We had a great rotation up at Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and 2 (6500m/21,325ft), touched Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), made it back down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) yesterday afternoon. (We’re) resting and relaxing, some of us are going to head down to Namche (3440m/11,290ft) for a little bit of an acclimatization drop to get some thick oxygenated air and recharge, get ready for our final summit rotation, which will start in about a weeks time from base camp.

So, all is well here! We’re just happy that everyone had a great rotation, got some high-altitude, some technical training up on the Lhotse Face. Time to rest and recharge now. Check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Climbing to Camp 3

The team together during their acclimatization rotation.

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest–Lhotse expedition team touched Camp 3 today before descending back down to Camp 2, where they are turning in for the night after a great day high on Mount Everest. There were perfect conditions today, good company, and enjoyable climbing. The team plans to descend back down to base camp tomorrow, where they’ll rest and recover, before looking ahead to their summit rotation! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team – we’re up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft)!

Today is May 7th and today we climbed up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) for acclimatization. It was a beautiful day, awesome views, no wind, no clouds. So, had a great trip up to Camp 3, hung out for a bit, had a few snacks and came back down to Camp 2. Good acclimatization, good technical skills practice. So, we’re feeling very prepared and very ready to come back up here in a week or 10 days for our summit push!

We’re going to head down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) tomorrow for a good, long rest, and then return to make our final summit bid on Everest and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft)!

All is well here on Everest! We’ll check in soon.

Looking down the fixed-lines on the Lhotse Face.

Looking down the fixed-lines on the Lhotse Face.

Nearing Camp 3 with Nuptse behind.

Nearing Camp 3 with Nuptse behind.

Smiles in the Western Cwm.

Smiles in the Western Cwm.

Looking down the Western Cwm on a sunny day in the Himalaya.

Looking down the Western Cwm on a sunny day in the Himalaya.

Alpenglow on peaks surrounding.

Alpenglow on peaks surrounding.

The team stopping for a rest on the Lhotse Face.

The team stopping for a rest on the Lhotse Face.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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2024 Manaslu expedition conclusion!

From left: Tenzi Sherpa and Temba Sherpa with our climber Chie Takeshita and Guide Terray Sylvester on the summit of Manaslu at 4:44 a.m. on September 25.

The Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition team has safely descended off of the mountain after successfully reaching the summit of the world’s eighth-highest peak! The team was welcomed back to camp by our rockstar base camp staff with a celebratory meal and cake, which we enjoyed while reflecting on the accomplishment from the day prior. The team has now begun to head their separate ways after saying their goodbyes with memories that won’t soon be forgotten from this hugely successful expedition! Awesome work, team. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this final dispatch from Manaslu base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Manaslu (8156m/26,759ft) expedition – today is September 26.

Today we descended from Camp 2 (6400m/21,000ft) back down to base camp (4859m/15,944ft). We spent last night at Camp 2 after our successful summit on the 25th! We aimed for the 25th as our summit date because the forecast was good for the 25th, but the forecast was predicting significant precipitation for today. Fortunately, that precipitation held off until the afternoon, so we had very pleasant conditions when we woke up in Camp 2 this morning and really nice weather for most of our descent back here to base camp.

It’s great to be here and to reunite with our excellent base camp staff, Khamba, Ram Kumar, and Dipesh, and with our whole Sherpa crew! So as of now, we are completely off of Manaslu! We’ve cleaned out all of our gear and taken down all of our trash, and anything else we brought up there from the mountain from all of the camps we used. All of our Sherpa crew and of course, all of our climbers are safely off of the mountain!

So, that concludes the climbing portion of the expedition. We had a really successful climb, it was just excellent! Tomorrow we plan to descend down to Sama village. We’ll spend one night there before beginning to make our way back to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft).

So, all is well and we’ll be in touch!

Our climbers, James and Sara, with Ming Dorchi Sherpa at the summit of Manaslu! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers, James and Sara, with Ming Dorchi Sherpa at the summit of Manaslu! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our guests celebrating with a “summit cake” and our excellent base camp staff. From left: Khumba, Ram Kumar, and Dipesh.

Our guests celebrating with a “summit cake” and our excellent base camp staff. From left: Khamba, Ram Kumar, and Dipesh.

Our climbers Sara, James, and Chie with Expedition Leader Terray Sylvester.

Our climbers Sara, James, and Chie with Expedition Leader Terray Sylvester.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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100% Summit Success on Manaslu!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

We are thrilled to announce that the entire Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition team has successfully reached the summit of the world’s eighth-highest peak! Standing at 8156m / 26,759ft, the team ascended the northeast ridge route which culminates in a peak that towers steeply above its surrounding landscape, and is a dominant feature when viewed from afar. The team enjoyed a beautiful morning on the summit, taking in the views and sharing a special moment together from the top. The team has safely descended all the way down to Camp 2 and will continue their descent down to base camp tomorrow. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this celebratory dispatch from Camp 2:

100% success on Manaslu (8156m/26,759ft)! This morning just before 5 a.m. our entire team touched the top of the eighth highest peak. That includes our three guests, four climbing Sherpas, and myself. We left Camp 4 (7450m/24,445ft) around midnight and were one of the first teams to summit today. That was important because the narrow route to Manaslu’s true summit — a high point on a knife edge ridge — can be crowded. The weather was excellent: we left Camp 4 in light snowfall but emerged from the clouds at about 7,800m. At the top we were treated to clear, starry skies and, importantly, completely still air with zero wind. In the distance to the south we could see lighting flickering in the clouds over the Himalayan foothills. At dawn, we could make out the Annapurna (8091m/26,545ft) and Dhaulagiri (8167m/26,795ft) massifs off to the west. After a short break at Camp 4, we descended to Camp 2 (6400m/21,000ft) in good form. We’re going to enjoy some well-earned rest here tonight, then drop back to base camp (4859m/15,944ft) tomorrow. Here’s the complete summit list:

# Name Country
1 Chie Takeshita Japan
2 Sara Myers USA
3 James Morris USA
4 Siddhi Tamang Nepal
5 Temba Sherpa Nepal
6 Ming Dorchi Sherpa Nepal
7 Tenzi Sherpa Nepal
8 Terray Sylvester USA

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit bid coming up!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

We are in Camp 4 and in position for our summit push! The Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition team reached their high camp today and are prepared to make their bid for the summit. The team climbed from Camp 3, moving strongly and swiftly through the clouds before settling into their tents for the night with excitement in knowing that with good weather tomorrow, they’ll go for the summit. We are so proud of the team for their hard work and look forward to the climbing ahead! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Camp 4:

Hello from Camp 4 (7450m/24,445ft)! Today we climbed here from Camp 3 (6800m/22,310ft). We were in clouds most of the day, but we climbed above them in the afternoon and now we have excellent views from here in camp. The team is doing well. We’re resting from today’s push and preparing for tomorrow’s summit bid. Despite the clouds, the weather is excellent: no wind and very little precipitation. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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