Tag Archive for: summit

Peak Lenin expedition coming to a close

The team on the summit of Peak Lenin (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin expedition team is back in base camp after their successful summit rotation! After dropping their packs, the team was able to reintroduce themselves to some of the comforts offered in camp with showers, rest, and a warm, nutritious meal. The team will get a good nights rest tonight, before packing up and leaving Peak Lenin with fond memories of a great expedition behind them. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Peak Lenin:

Hi! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin (7134m/23,406ft) expedition. Today is July 20.

This morning, we woke up in Camp 1, Advanced Base Camp (4400m/14,435ft) at 4,400 meters. We had a good breakfast. We gave our duffel bags to the riders who manage the pack horses here, and then we descended back down to Base Camp. Atchiktosh Base Camp (3600m/11,800ft) at the foot of Peak Lenin is about 3,600 meters, so just under 12,000 feet. And after a couple of weeks up high, at high, extremely high altitude, it felt really good to descend back onto the lush step of the Alay Valley.

It was a really nice hike! We passed wildflowers and waterfalls, big, healthy marmots. It was another beautiful day here in the Pamir with blue skies and balmy temperatures. We arrived back in base camp in time for lunch. Then we spent the afternoon organizing our gear for our departure, taking showers, resting. We just wrapped up dinner, and we’re about to head to bed.

Tomorrow, the plan is to drive to Osh (963m/3,159ft). We’ll spend one night there, and then catch a flight to Bishkek (800m/2,600ft).

So unfortunately, this expedition is coming to a close. It’s been a real pleasure to spend so much time on these big, beautiful mountains in central Asia. Everything’s going really well here, and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

First light on Lenin’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

First light on Lenin’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers Fatima and Chris approaching 7,000 meters with the peaks of Tajikistan in the distance (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers Fatima and Chris approaching 7,000 meters with the peaks of Tajikistan in the distance (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Back in Advanced Base Camp

Safely back to Camp 1! The Madison Mountaineering Peak Lenin expedition team dropped down to Advanced Base Camp today following their successful ascent on the day prior. With lots of hard work behind them, the team is excited for some well-earned rest. Surely, it’ll be a good nights sleep to power them forward for the descent back to base camp tomorrow. Great work, team! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Peak Lenin:

Hello from Camp 1 / Advance Base Camp (4400m/14,435ft)! We descended here from Camp 4 (6400m/21,000ft) today. The team did a great job on the way here. We’re looking forward to a well-earned rest at lower altitude tonight, and our return to base camp (3600m/11,800ft) tomorrow. We’ll be in touch then!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Peak Lenin Summits!

With much excitement, we are happy to share that the Madison Mountaineering expedition team successfully summited Peak Lenin on July 18 around 1:00 p.m. local time! The excellent weather and climbing conditions continued throughout the day from the moment they left their tents to the summit, and back down to Camp 4. The team called it a day there with plans to descend further down the mountain on July 19. A huge congratulations to the team for this amazing accomplishment! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this celebratory dispatch from Peak Lenin:

Success on Peak Lenin!

This morning our team started climbing from Camp 4 (6,400m / 21,000′) in two waves: the first at 3:15 a.m., the second three hours later. Both teams arrived on the summit of Peak Lenin (7,134m / 23,405′) at about 1 p.m. We had a great climb. The stellar conditions on the mountain continued, with the route in good shape, light winds and clear skies. Now we’re all back in Camp 4, resting for our descent to Advance Base Camp tomorrow.

Also, a big congratulations to our climber, Fatima, who, at 19, became the youngest Arab to climb above 7,000m and the first Emirati to summit Peak Lenin!

We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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100% Summit Success on Carstensz!

Summit photo atop Carstensz Pyramid!

And just like that! We are happy to report the summit success of our entire Carstensz Pyramid team on the morning of June 16. After crawling out of their sleeping bags, gearing up, and leaving their tent walls, clear and starry skies shined overhead. Climbers scarfed down some food and coffee to fuel up for the climb ahead, before shouldering their packs and starting up the route. We enjoyed excellent climbing and conditions through the night and into the morning, making great time while climbing higher up the mountain. There were some of the best views and climbing conditions we’ve ever experienced on Carstensz, with views as far as the eye can see and the mountain entirely to ourselves; not another soul was up there! The team celebrated together on the summit before descending back down to camp, safe and sound. What a day, and what an expedition it’s been so far! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in from the Yellow Valley Base Camp after successfully topping out on Oceania’s highest peak, Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) Expedition. Today’s June 16th.

This morning, we left base camp (4285m/14,050ft) under perfectly clear, starry skies at about 5 a.m. By four hours later, the entire team was standing on the summit of Carstensz Pyramid, the highest point in Oceania, and one of the ‘seven summits!’ We had a really nice climb. The weather was perfect. We had perfectly clear skies as the sun rose over the Sudirman Range, which is just a really beautiful, kind of magnificent range with lots of exposed limestone, craggy peaks. And as we gained the summit ridge, we had clear skies looking down to the south as well, toward the Arafura Sea. I felt like if we’d been able to see just a little bit farther, we would have caught a glimpse of Australia! Really nice weather for Carstensz Pyramid.

Yeah, the clear skies and good weather continued all the way to the summit and back down. We are all back in base camp now and relaxing in t-shirts and shorts in the sunshine, and preparing for our flight back to Timika (31m/103ft).

All in all this expedition has gone really well so far! We arrived in Timika on schedule, flew to the mountain on schedule, summited on the day we planned to, according to our itinerary, the next day, and hopefully we’ll fly out of base camp later today or tomorrow. So, yeah, really special expedition here in the New Guinea Highlands.

This was a custom itinerary. So we are climbing outside of the usual seasons on Carstensz Pyramid, which means that we have the mountain all to ourselves. There’s no one else in base camp, just our little team, and we were the only ones on the mountain. Felt very peaceful, really special.

So yeah, all good here in the tropics in Papua. And we’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Before leaving camp on the summit push.

Before leaving camp on the summit push.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Safely back in Base Camp

The team together earlier in the expedition.

With happy hearts, we’re excited to report that the entire Madison Mountaineering team is now safely off of the mountain and heading home! Some of the team is back in Kathmandu, reintroducing themselves to the comforts of life in the city. A few team members, guides, the Sherpa team, and base camp staff are wrapping up the season in Everest Base Camp! While climbers are quick to pack their bags one last time before boarding their flights back home, there are sure to be many hugs and ‘see you laters’ as this special season comes to a close. We are so proud of the entire team for another incredible season in the Himalaya! With over 30 summits on Mount Everest, memories, and new friends that will last a lifetime, the past month and a half is one we won’t soon forget. With that, we are proud to present the 2026 Mount Everest summiteers list:

# Name Nationality
1 Francisco Arenas United States of America
2 Richard Draves United States of America
3 Ashley Keightley United States of America
4 Brandon Scott Canada
5 Andrew Green United States of America
6 Frank McCarthy Ireland
7 Pratyay Poddar United Kingdom
8 Tomas Walsh United States of America
9 Jeffery Arnold Canada
10 Reid Tileston United States of America
11 Garrett Madison United States of America
12 Terray Sylvester United States of America
13 Juan Pablo Escobar Argentina
14 Javier Beiza Argentina
15 Aang Phurba Sherpa Nepal
16 Dawa Sange Sherpa Nepal
17 Dorchi Sherpa Nepal
18 Chhong Ngima Sherp Nepal
19 Ngima Tashi Sherpa Nepal
20 Sumba Sherpa Nepal
21 Shere Thapa Magar Nepal
22 Ngima Sona Sherpa Nepal
23 Lale Tamang Nepal
24 Dawa Sungder Sherpa Nepal
25 Nima Sange Sherpa Nepal
26 Pemba Sherp Nepal
27 Pemba Serwa Nepal
28 Chheten Dorgee Sherpa Nepal
29 Dorchi one Sherpa Nepal
30 Siddhi Tamang Nepal
31 Hira Bhote Nepal
32 R D Tamang Nepal
33 Mane Tamang Nepal
34 Santosh Bhote Nepal

Bookings for the 2027 Mount Everest expedition are OPEN! Reach out to our team to learn more. We are already looking forward to coming back again next year!

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this closing dispatch from Mount Everest:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team.

We are all down off the mountain now. The last of us, myself, Terray, Reid, and Jeff, along with our incredible Sherpa team came down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) today from Camp IV (7900m/25,919ft). Everyone’s down from Camp II (6500m/21,325ft). And we’re happy that the whole crew is safely down off the mountain.

Most of our main team is already down in Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft), enjoying the city life, and hot showers, warm beds, and looking forward to getting home soon.

It’s been a great expedition! Just incredible success all around. Everybody who went for the summit made it. That’s 10 clients, four guides, and, over 20 Nepal Sherpa. So just an amazing expedition! Very thankful, very grateful we were so fortunate and had so much success and safety all around.

So it’s been a great season here in Nepal. So fortunate, so thankful, and we’ll check in soon.

(From left to right) Aang Phurba Sherpa, Garrett Madison, and Jeff Arnold nearing base camp after descending from Camp IV.

(From left to right) Aang Phurba Sherpa, Garrett Madison, and Jeff Arnold nearing base camp after descending from Camp IV.

Looking up at the summit from the South Col.

Looking up at the summit from the South Col.

The team moving together beneath the Lhotse Face.

The team moving together beneath the Lhotse Face.

 

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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More Everest Summits on May 27!

Summit! Some of the team at the top of the world...

At 18:57 NPT, we received word from the South Col that the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team had successfully reached the summit and made it back down to Camp IV! It comes with great pleasure to share this exciting news that nine climbers, guides, and Sherpas topped out at the world’s highest point today, adding to the total from a few days prior. The team enjoyed excellent views and no crowds while climbing on the way to the summit. With the summit to themselves, the celebration commenced, summit photos were taken, and the moment cherished before turning back. What an incredible way to finish the 2026 climbing season on Mount Everest! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in from Camp IV:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team.

We have great news to report… Today, the last members of our expedition, Everest team all reached the summit! That’s myself, Jeff Arnold, Terray Sylvester, Reid Tileston, along with the incredible Sherpa team: Siddhi Ghising, and Mani, and Ardi, and Hira, and Santosh. And we are all back in Camp IV (7900m/25,919ft) now, safe and sound, resting, recovering, and planning to head down to Camp II (6500m/21,325ft) and base camp (5364m/17,598ft) the following day.

(We) had a great day! The weather cooperated, winds dropped down, and we had some great views on the way up. It was a little cloudy up top, but not crowded at all, and we just had a wonderful time up there. A great way to conclude our expedition with all the members that were up here at the South Col, and going for the summit, topping out on Everest!

So, been a fantastic expedition, and we will check in soon.

Summit photo atop Mount Everest!

Summit photo atop Mount Everest!

Clear skies and excellent views while climbing high on Everest.

Clear skies and excellent views while climbing high on Everest.

Garrett Madison on the summit for his 16th time.

Garrett Madison on the summit for his 16th time.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summits on Everest!

The route as seen from Camp 4.

It comes with great excitement to share that the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team successfully reached the summit and are back in Camp 4! All climbers who left on the summit push from the South Col reached the world’s highest point. Upon reaching the top, the team took in the moment with a brief celebration, hugs, high-fives, and a few photos before turning back and descending down the route. Awesome job, team! We are so proud of you.

But we’re not done yet! A few climbers and guides are staged in Camp 4. They plan to take a rest day tomorrow and leave for the summit on May 27th! More to come from Mount Everest… Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the South Col:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team.

We are all up at the South Col at Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on Mount Everest. And today, we’re so proud of our main team that summited, led by Cacho, J.P, Aang Phurba Sherpa, along with eight climbers. That’s Rich, Brandon, Andy, Ashley, Pratyay, Frank, Francisco, and Tom. All the climbers who were up here at the South Col went for the summit and made it, along with the guide team and 16 Nepal Sherpas, 16 of our stellar Sherpas. We’re so proud of them! So that’s, I think 24 members from the Madison Mountaineering team, Sherpas and climbers, 26 maybe who summited.

Myself, along with Jeff Arnold, Terray Sylvester, and Reid Tileston are up here at the South Col now, along with Siddhi, Ardi, and Hada Sherpa. We’re getting ready to go for our summit attempt. We’re probably going to aim for the morning of the 27th at this point.

So everyone’s doing well, everyone’s safe, everyone’s happy. And we’re just so excited our main team all made it to the top, 100% success for everyone that was up here at the South Col and left to go for the summit attempt. Great job, team!

Fingers crossed we’ll some good weather and conditions for the last four of us and our Sherpa team here on the 27th! All’s well here at high camp 4 on Everest, 26,000 feet, 8,000 meters. We’ll check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Full Steam Ahead!

The team together following our Puja ceremony (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team has been hard at work in Everest Base Camp! Following the first rotation on Lobuche East, the team welcomed our express climbers, continued their technical trainings and acclimatization efforts, and took part in the Puja Ceremony where we ask the mountain for safe passage. Meanwhile, our Sherpa team loaded up and left for Camp 2 where they’ll start to establish our higher camps. It won’t be too long before we start the move up for our next rotation! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Mount Everest:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition.

We’ve had a great couple days training here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) practicing ascending fixed-lines, traversing, arm repelling, descending. (We’ve) enjoyed some great weather here, some really good technical training, which also helps us with our acclimatization.

Our Sherpa team went up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) today and established our campsite there, and is building Camp 2 in preparation for us to move up in a weeks time, approximately. So, everything’s going smoothly here!

We’re glad the Khumbu Icefall is open, and the route is clear, navigable, and seems very safe. So everything is going full steam ahead here on Mount Everest!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Weekend Update from Mount Everest

Summit photo atop Lobuche East!

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition teams have been keeping busy all over the Khumbu Valley! Over the weekend, our main team successfully summited Lobuche Peak, which is where we hold our first acclimatization rotation. Meanwhile, the Everest Express team flew from Kathmandu to Pheriche and are working their way up towards Everest Base Camp. Not too far away as the crow flies, we also had successful summits on Island Peak! Wherever the teams were at, we enjoyed excellent weather and had lots of fun in such a special place. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team.

Our main team returned back to Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) after climbing Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) with great conditions and great views up top – a nice way to continue working on skill development, and getting some acclimatization and training in!

Our Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) team just summited Island Peak. Congrats to Sandra and CR!

Myself and three of our express climbers are now in Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) heading to Everest Base Camp! So we’ll all be together in Everest Base Camp tomorrow.

The weather’s been great; blue skies, clear views. We’re just patiently keeping an eye on the Khumbu Icefall route, that currently has an impasse, watching and waiting, as the ice fall doctor team continues to try to find a safe way up through the difficult section.

All is well here at Everest Base Camp in Nepal! We’ll check in soon.

Technical training in Everest Base Camp

Technical training in Everest Base Camp

Technical training in Everest Base Camp

Technical training in Everest Base Camp

Technical training in Everest Base Camp

Technical training in Everest Base Camp

Excellent views while climbing Lobuche East!

Excellent views while climbing Lobuche East!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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More good news from Carstensz Pyramid!

Garrett, Frank, and Fatima on the summit of Carstensz Pyramid!

More good news coming in from Carstensz Pyramid Base Camp… We’re happy to report that the rest of the Madison Mountaineering team successfully reached the summit today and are back in base camp safe and sound! That marks 100% summit success again for the team. While the celebration is already underway, the team looks forward to celebrating some more back in Bali!

This concludes the March, 2026 Carstensz Pyramid expedition. We’ll be back again this October… Reach out to our team to learn more and to join us on this exciting adventure!

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this celebratory dispatch from the Yellow Valley Base Camp:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) Expedition – first one of 2026.

I’m happy to report that we’re all back in base camp (4285m/14,050ft) after a successful summit, 100% success! All six climbers, plus myself, and two local Indonesian guides made the summit this trip. So we are very stoked, very happy.

Half of our team made it down by helicopter to Timika (31m/103ft), and the other half of us, including myself, are hoping to fly out tomorrow morning down to Timika!

It’s been a grand adventure up here! Crazy weather today. We got some snow, some rain, some sun, some good views. We’re looking forward to getting down and being reunited with our climbers, and heading back to Bali (0m/0ft) for some celebrating. Woohoo! 100% success.

Onwards and upwards.

Fatima ascending up fixed lines in wintery conditions

Fatima ascending up fixed lines in wintery conditions

Crossing the famous tyrolean traverse.

Crossing the famous tyrolean traverse.

Fatima on the summit!

Fatima on the summit!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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