Tag Archive for: Lhotse

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Acclimatizing amongst the clouds

The team at about 5,000m on Nangkartshang above Pheriche Village today (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams had a great day building their acclimatization above the village of Pheriche! After a good nights rest after the trek from Deboche to Pheriche, the team fueled up with a good breakfast and took to the trail that climbs high above the villages below. Climbing through some clouds, we ascended higher and higher up Nangkartshang Peak (5083m/16,676ft) with views of Ama Dablam and other surrounding Himalayan giants. After coming together again at the high point for the day, we took in the views, hydrated, snacked, and enjoyed each others company before descending back down to the tea house below. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Pheriche:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team.

Today’s April 19 and we hiked up from the village of Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft) on Nangkartshang Peak (5083m/16,676ft) today. We had a gear acclimatization hike and got up to about 16,700 feet or so. Everyone did awesome and we had some nice views up there! We’re back down at the lodge here in Pheriche ready for dinner.

So, wonderful day and we’re going to head up to Lobuche village (4940m/16,210ft) tomorrow.

All is well here! We’ll check in soon.

Guide Cacho Beiza with his wife, Andrea Berlanga, and excellent views of Ama Dablam (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide Cacho Beiza with his wife, Andrea Berlanga, and excellent views of Ama Dablam (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Garrett Madison with climbers Mike and Caroline in front of Thamserku peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Garrett Madison with climbers, Mike and Caroline in front of Thamserku peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Conan Bliss with climber, Aga (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Conan Bliss with climber, Aga (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Back on the move!

The team departing Namche Bazaar after receiving a blessing from our friends at the Panorama Lodge.

The Madison Mountaineering expedition teams took to the trail again today under blue skies, saying ‘see you later’ to Namche Bazaar after a pleasant stay in the busy mountain village. Todays trek offered spectacular mountain views of Ama Dablam, Mount Everest, and more before we made a short stop at the Tengboche Monastery and neighboring bakery. After filling their bellies with pastries, treats, coffee, and tea, we made our final descent down to our next stop at the beautiful, Rivendell Lodge. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison check in with this dispatch from Deboche:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft)-Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) climbing teams, Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team, and the Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) trekking team – today is April 17!

Today we left Namche (3440m/11,290ft) and trekked up to the Tengboche Monastery (3867m/12,687ft) and then down to the rhododendron forest and the town of Deboche (3820m/12,532ft), here in the Rivendell Lodge. We had a great day! It was a beautiful morning, lots of mountain  views. We stopped into the Tengboche Monastery and got to witness the afternoon prayer which is really special, and then had some apple pie and coffee, and then came down to our lodge here for a nice, restful evening and a great dinner!

Very special morning leaving Namche! We were blessed by our family friends at the Panorama Lodge, Mingma and his mother, Lhakpa Doma. Very wonderful ceremony and looking forward to heading up the Khumbu further tomorrow!

All is well and we’ll check in soon!

Lunch in Phungithanka!

Lunch in Phungithanka!

Visiting Tengboche Monastery (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Visiting Tengboche Monastery (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our trekker, Jeff, sending positive vibes into the ether at Tengboche Monastery (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our trekker, Jeff, sending positive vibes into the ether at Tengboche Monastery (photo by Terray

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Made it to Namche Bazaar!

Climbers, Blake and Aga, crossing the famous Hillary Suspension Bridge below Namche (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Today, the Madison Mountaineering spring expedition teams trekked along the Dudh Koshi River, across the famous Hillary Suspension Bridge, and up to Namche Bazaar where they’ll spend two nights acclimatizing before continuing their journey. Namche is the main hub in the Khumbu Region, offering those passing through many cafe’s to visit, shops to check out, art galleries, and more! The team is in high spirits and happy to be making their way further up the Khumbu Valley. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Namche Bazaar:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Makalu (8463m/27,766ft), and base camp trekking (5364m/17,598ft) teams.

Today is April 15th and we trekked up to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). Everyone’s doing great! We had a nice, cool day, some good views of the mountains. We got into Namche around mid-day, relaxed, went down into town, visited some of the shops in Namche, and had a great dinner with our friends at the Panorama Lodge! We’re looking forward to a good nights rest.

Tomorrow, we’re planning to hike up to the Everest View! Hopefully, get a nice view of Mount Everest if it’s clear. So, all good here in the Khumbu! We’re happy to be here. Check in soon!

Guides, Conan and Garrett, with Everest Base Camp trekker, Amy and Base Camp Manager Bhola on the way to Namche Bazaar (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guides, Conan and Garrett with Everest Base Camp trekker, Amy and Base Camp Manager, Bhola on the way to Namche Bazaar (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Spring colors in the Khumbu (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Spring colors in the Khumbu (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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2025 Makalu expedition is here!

All of the spring Nepal climbing and trekking teams at the Pasang Lhamu Gate in Lukla, the gateway to the Khumbu Valley (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Madison Mountaineering is excited for this highly anticipated expedition – Makalu, the world’s fifth-highest peak! Over the course of the last few days, our team gathered in Kathmandu before boarding their next flight. This time, they were flying into the mountains to begin the expedition! Our Makalu climbers will trek alongside our Everest and Lhotse climbers to Everest Base Camp, before flying over to Makalu where they’ll begin their climb. It’s been a great start to the expedition so far, spirits are high, and we’re excited to continue higher into the alpine! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Phakding:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition this spring – today is April 14.

Yesterday, all of the team came together in Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft). We had a nice welcome dinner and then headed to bed early. We woke up this morning for our heli flight up to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft). The weather was great for the flight! It was a little hazy in Kathmandu in the days leading up to our arrival, but then some rain started which cleared out the sky. So, we had a spectacular flight into Lukla, had a nice breakfast there, and then walked to Phakding (2610m/8,562ft). We’re getting settled into our rooms now, looking forward to a nice meal, and looking forward to our move to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) tomorrow!

Our plan is to acclimatize here in the Khumbu Valley all the way up to Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft), and then we’ll fly over to Makalu Base Camp to begin our ascent of the fifth-highest mountain. We’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Spring Himalayan Expeditions are underway!

Team dinner in Kathmandu!

The Madison Mountaineering spring 2025 Himalayan season is underway in Nepal! After a brief stopover in Kathmandu to gather as a team, conduct gear checks, and make final preparations, the team boarded helicopters and took a scenic flight to Lukla where we started the trek. This marks the beginning of our 2025 Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Everest Base Camp expeditions! Everest and Lhotse expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this inaugural dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team – today is April 14.

We’re trekking up the Khumbu Valley, we flew from Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) this morning. Today is Nepali New Year, 2082! We had a nice trek, it was cool and a little bit of rain. So, it kept the dust down and now we’re in the Sunrise Lodge in Phakding (2610m/8,562ft). Tomorrow, we’re trekking up to Namche (3440m/11,290ft)!

It’s great to be underway here on the expedition, heading up towards base camp (5364m/17,598ft). Everyone’s doing well and very excited to be here! We’ll check in soon.

Some of the team getting ready to board helicopters en route to Lukla!

Some of the team getting ready to board helicopters en route to Lukla!

On the trail!

On the trail!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

 

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Check in from the Ama Dablam team!

The team on the summit of Ama Dablam with Everest and Lhotse in the background! From left: Guide Terray Sylvester, our climber, Joe, and Sirdar and Guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Safely back in base camp, the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team spent the day re-introducing themselves to the luxuries of life off of the mountain! After a great day successfully reaching the summit on the day prior, the team relaxed, celebrated, and began getting prepared to make their way back down the valley. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this celebratory dispatch from Ama Dablam base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the autumn 2024 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – today is November 8th. Today, we had a rest day here in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) after our successful summit push. Yesterday, we topped out on Ama Dablam at about 7:30 AM in the morning, and then we descended all the way back down to base camp and had a nice dinner here and got a good nights sleep.

So, we spent today taking showers and getting packed and prepared for our trek back down the valley to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft). Our plan is to leave for Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) tomorrow morning and then finish off the trek the following day.

All in all, we had a fantastic summit push! Two days ago, or three days ago on November 5th, we moved up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft). The following day, we moved to Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft), rested most of the day, and then that evening at about 11:00 PM we started our summit climb and topped out at about 7:30 AM in the morning! The climbing conditions were perfect – zero wind and perfectly clear skies, which meant we had great views of the peaks around us and before the sun came up, excellent views of a brilliant, starry sky over the Himalayas!

So, all is well here in base camp and we’ll be in touch from Namche Bazaar tomorrow!

Our climber, Joe, stepping onto the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Joe, stepping onto the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Approaching Camp 2. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Approaching Camp 2. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Celebratory cake back in base camp the evening after our team summited!

Celebratory cake back in base camp the evening after our team summited!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ama Dablam Summits!

It comes with great excitement to share that at 7:36 AM local time on November 7, the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team successfully reached the summit! The team left their tents at Camp 2 and climbed through the night, navigating technical terrain under starry skies. In the morning hours, the sun began to come up revealing excellent views of many surrounding peaks and the route below. It was near perfect weather and route conditions for our summit day! After taking the final few steps onto the summit, the team shared hugs and high-fives in celebration before reporting the good news to our other teams in the Khumbu region. The team is now safely back in base camp and will begin to pack their bags and start their departure from the Himalaya soon! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Ama Dablam:

Hello from base camp! This morning we summited Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) from Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) in excellent weather. We left Camp 2 at about 11 p.m. and stepped onto the summit not long after sunrise in perfectly clear skies without a breath of wind. After soaking up the views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Makalu (8463m/27,766ft), Kanchenjunga (8586m/28,169ft) and other peaks, we descended all the way here to base camp (4600m/15,100ft). We just wrapped up dinner and we’re looking forward to some well-earned sleep!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Active rest in the heart of the Khumbu!

The team hiking above Namche Bazaar in excellent weather! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams spent today exploring the beautiful Namche Bazaar! A major hub in the Khumbu Valley, Namche has much to offer including cafes, bars, shopping, and more. After fueling up at breakfast, we ventured out under a beautiful blue sky and started walking through the village on our way to the Everest View Hotel. Together, the team topped out on the ridge and were greeted with crystal clear, unobstructed views of Himalayan peaks in any direction you looked! The team is in high spirits and we look forward to moving deeper into the Khumbu Valley. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering fall programs here in the Khumbu Valley of Nepal – today is October 24th. This morning we woke up to beautiful, clear, sunny skies here in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) and we went for an acclimatization hike up to the Everest View Hotel. Along the way, we had excellent views of all the major peaks that you can ever see from the Everest View Hotel: Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), Taboche (6495m/21,309ft), and one of our objectives for this trip, Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft)! Then we descended back down into town and spent the afternoon relaxing in Namche Bazaar, right in the hub of the, the heart of the Khumbu Valley. Our guests have been enjoying sports massages offered by Lehara, the charity that operates here in Namche Bazaar. And, we’ve had some great meals at Sherpa Barista and other restaurants around town! We’re just about to settle into dinner and then we’ll head to bed.

Tomorrow, our plan is to continue moving up the valley. Our EBC (5364m/17,598ft) trekkers and Ama Dablam climbers will continue past Tengboche Monastery (3867m/12,687ft) to Deboche (3820m/12,532ft) and our guest who is heading to Gokyo Ri (5340m/17,519ft) and then on to Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) and Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) will take a left, head up past Phortse (3840m, 12,598ft) to the town of Dole (4038m/13,248ft).

So, all is well here and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Views of Ama Dablam. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Views of Ama Dablam. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse rising in the distance behind the Everest View Hotel. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse rising in the distance behind the Everest View Hotel. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Good times in the sun on our active rest day! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Good times in the sun on our active rest day! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Sirdar and guide Aang Phurba Sherpa relaxing with our guests Kat, Joe and Thierry at the Everest View Hotel! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Sirdar and guide Aang Phurba Sherpa relaxing with our guests Kat, Joe and Thierry at the Everest View Hotel! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Cho Oyu Summit Success!

Summit photo on the top of Cho Oyu!

After several years off the mountain, it comes with great pleasure to share that 100% of our 2024 Cho Oyu expedition team has successfully reached the summit of the world’s sixth-highest peak! We are so proud of the team for their hard work and determination after a challenging season weather-wise. A HUGE shoutout and thank you goes out to our Sherpa team – these feats would not be possible without you. We’ve returned safely to base camp and will begin our departure home soon! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this celebratory dispatch from Cho Oyu base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu (8188m/26,864ft) expedition team!

We are back down in base camp today and yesterday, October 7th, we summited Cho Oyu, the sixth-highest mountain in the world. All team members made it – 100% success! (I) couldn’t be more proud of our team. Everyone did awesome! We were so lucky with the weather. We had a beautiful, bluebird day, views in all directions (with) great views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), Makalu (8485m/27,838ft), Shishapangma (8027m/26,335ft). Just so happy that this climb worked out! It was a little tenuous there last week with the big storm, all the snow, and the season being delayed about a week here in Tibet. But, all is well!

We’re packing up base camp today. We’re going to start trekking out tomorrow, Jeeps down to Tingri (4348m/14,268ft), and onwards to Lhasa (3,656m/11,995ft). There’s no land border crossings back into Nepal open at this point after the massive flooding, they’re all washed out. So, we are going to be flying back from Lhasa! So, very excited about that.

It’s a beautiful day here in base camp! We’re doing well, and happy, and looking forward to getting home soon.

High Camp with otherworldly views of the surrounding Himalayas!

High Camp with otherworldly views of the surrounding Himalayas!

Views of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse from high on the mountain!

Views of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse from high on the mountain!

Evening light high in the alpine.

Morning light high in the alpine.

The team on our summit rotation under blue skies!

The team on our summit rotation under blue skies!

Climbing up on the summit rotation!

Climbing up on the summit rotation!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Down to Camp 2!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team descended from Camp 4 today on Mount Everest, down the Lhotse Face and over 4,000 vertical feet back to Camp 2. Now back in the Western Cwm and the comforts of a heated dining tent, the team recounts the memories from yesterday’s summit day. Again, we are so proud of the entire team and their accomplishments this season! Climber, Courtenay Roche checks in with this celebratory dispatch from Camp 2:

Hello, friends of Madison Mountaineering! Courtenay here with a very exciting post-summit dispatch. As you probably heard from Garrett yesterday, all of our climbers and our amazing Sherpa team summited Everest (8848m/29,032ft) at 8:00 AM on Thursday, May 23rd – a day none of us will soon forget!

After basking in the warmth of our accomplishments and our -40 degree sleeping bags in Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on Thursday night, it was time to head down the mountain. As my childhood idol and friend of Madison Mountaineering Ed Viesturs famously says, “Getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory.” Well, we have used his directive and have made it safely down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) losing over 4,000 feet of elevation in just a few hours.

I’m currently dispatching from the comfort of our heated Camp 2 dining tent – a luxury after four days of freeze-dried meals up high on the mountain! We are all certainly eager to be reunited with our base camp (5364m/17,598ft) friends and the amenities tomorrow. Thank you for following along with our many expeditions this season. We’ve got just one more dispatch to go!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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