Tag Archive for: Lhotse

Kristen, Sange and Terray near the top of Island Peak (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

It’s with great excitement that we get to share that the Madison Mountaineering Everest Base Camp, Lobuche, and Island Peak team have safely returned following their final climb on Island Peak and are off the mountain. Everyone is doing great, and looking forward to enjoying their final few days in the Himalaya as they descend down the beautiful Khumbu Valley that has been home the last few weeks. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this celebratory dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest Base Camp trek, (5364m/17,598ft) plus Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) and Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) climbs – today is November 5th.

Today we had an excellent climb on Island Peak! We left base camp at about midnight and enjoyed a fantastic sunrise just as we were coming up onto the summit ice fields on Island Peak. We had excellent views of Makalu (8463m/27766ft) in the distance, Baruntse (7162m/23,497ft) across the valley, plus the upper ridge line of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and the south face of Lhotse, and the rarely seen northern aspects of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) which are very spectacular.

After the climb we descended down to base camp and walked down to Chukhung (4730m/15,520ft). We just wrapped up dinner here and are looking forward to a good night of sleep. Tomorrow we will descend to Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft), with a stop at the bakery in Dingboche (4410m/14,470ft). So, we’ll be in touch tomorrow! All is going well here in Nepal.

Climbers on the summit of Island Peak (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Climbers on the summit of Island Peak (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Descending toward base camp with Ama Dablam and other peaks in the distance (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Descending toward base camp with Ama Dablam and other peaks in the distance (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

On the summit icefields of Island Peak / Imja Tse (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

On the summit icefields of Island Peak / Imja Tse (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering team has settled into their base camp and is primed and ready to make their summit push on Island Peak! The team continues to have excellent weather, with hopes of more perfect weather and climbing conditions on their final objective tomorrow. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Island Peak Base Camp:

Hello from Island Peak Base Camp! This morning we trekked here from Chukhung (4730m/15,520ft) with dramatic views of the south face of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), the northerly aspects of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) and, beside our base camp, the beautiful Imja Lake (5004m/16,417ft) with icebergs floating in it. The team is doing well. We’ve packed our kit for the climb and now we’re resting in preparation for an early start. We’ll be in touch tomorrow evening!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Rested up and recovered after a stellar climb on Lobuche East, the Madison Mountaineering team was back on the trail today headed in the direction of their final climb, Island Peak! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this brief dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest Base Camp trek, (5364m/17,598ft) plus Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) and Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) climbs – today is November 3rd.

We moved from Dingboche (4410m/14,470ft) to Chukhung (4730m/15,520ft) today on our way up to Island Peak! It was another beautiful day with great views of the valley, above Dingboche, excellent views of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Island Peak and Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) off to our right. Tomorrow we will move to Island Peak base camp! We’ll be in touch then.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team topping out on Kala Patthar with excellent views of Mount Everest (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest base camp trekking team reached their high point today, ascending Kala Patthar which is considered a trekkers peak that overlooks Everest base camp and with 360 degree views of the mountains, valleys and glaciers all around. The team could not have asked for better weather and took their time while they soaked up the sun and views at over 18,000 feet. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest base camp (5364m/17,598ft) trek, and Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) and Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) climbs – today is October 29th.

Today we trekked from Lobuche village (4940m/16,210ft) to Gorak Shep (5164m/16,942ft). We had a nice lunch and then we hiked up to the top of Kala Patthar (5644m/18,519ft), which is higher than 18,000 feet – about 5,500 meters which would make it just about as high as the third highest peak in North America, but here of course, it’s just a foothill among giants. However, we had excellent views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), Pumori (7161m/23,494ft), and even just a peak of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft)! It can be pretty cold on Kala Patthar at times, but we got really lucky with the weather. We were able to bask in the sun for a little while, take some pictures, and then we hiked down to Gorak Shep where we’ll spend the night!

Tomorrow we’ve got another exciting day! We’ll go to Everest base camp and then we’ll start trekking back down the Khumbu Valley. So, we’re all doing well here in the Khumbu and I’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Everest and Nuptse, with Lhotse just barely visible (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest and Nuptse, with Lhotse just barely visible (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team departing from Deboche with views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Under beautiful, clear-blue Himalayan skies, our Madison Mountaineering teams continued their trek further up the Khumbu Valley with a stop in Pangboche for a blessing at the monastery. This is a special experience for many – these cultural experiences along with trekking and climbing in the Himalaya make for a truly engaging combination. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Pheriche:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest base camp (5364m/17,598ft) trek, Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) and Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) climbs – today is October 26.

Today we trekked from Deboche (3820m/12,532ft) to Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft). Along the way we stopped for a blessing at the monastery in Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft). That’s always a nice ceremony – a nice way to mark a milestone in our trip as we get closer to Everest base camp. In Pangboche, we also parted ways with the Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) team. They’re going to spend the night in Pangboche tonight, and then move up to Ama Dablam base camp (4600m/15,100ft) tomorrow.

But now, the Everest base camp trekking team is here in Pheriche – we’re just relaxing before dinner. For most of the day we had excellent weather yet again with crystal clear skies, and great views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) ahead of us. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Garrett and our Everest Base Camp crew: Max, Alex, Kirk and Nick (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Garrett and our Everest Base Camp crew: Max, Alex, Kirk and Nick (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp trekker, Max visiting the monastery in Pangboche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp trekker, Max visiting the monastery in Pangboche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

EBC trekker, Max and climber, Thomas trekking above Deboche with Garrett (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

EBC trekker, Max and climber, Thomas trekking above Deboche with Garrett (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Visiting the Pangboche Monastery (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Visiting the Pangboche Monastery (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our Everest Base Camp trekking team approaching Shomare with Lhotse in the background (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our Everest Base Camp trekking team approaching Shomare with Lhotse in the background (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

A yak on the trek towards Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

A yak on the trek towards Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

EBC trekkers, Max and Nick trekking toward Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

EBC trekkers, Max and Nick trekking toward Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Trekking guide, Aaditya Nachhiring approaching Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Trekking guide, Aaditya Nachhiring approaching Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climbers, Anna and Thomas crossing the Hillary Suspension Bridge (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering fall, 2023 Himalayan expedition teams have reached the heart of the Khumbu Valley: Namche Bazaar! The team enjoyed excellent weather from Phakding while trekking along the Dudh Koshi River, across suspension bridges, and with a few breaks along the way before emerging into Namche, which is a major hub in the Khumbu Valley. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Terray calling in from Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft), Nepal – it’s October 23rd. Today our teams here in Nepal hiked from Phakding (2610m/8,562ft) to Namche Bazaar. We had beautiful weather along the way and got our first view of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) as we climbed the hill to Namche!

We had just a great time! (We) stopped in Monjo (2835m/9,301ft) and had a nice cup of tea in the sun, then we had a great lunch in Jorsalle (2740m/8989ft) and climbed up the hill to Namche across the famous Ed Hillary suspension bridge.

So, we just wrapped up dinner and we’re going to bed. Tomorrow we’re looking forward to a hike up to the Everest View Hotel where we’ll get a great view of Everest as well as Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft), which is the objective for some of our climbers here in Nepal.

We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

The team preparing to depart from Pahakding (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The team preparing to depart from Phakding (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp trekkers, Kirk and Nick at the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp trekkers, Kirk and Nick at the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Madison Mountaineering expedition team members Kristen, Kim and Max approaching Namche Bazaar (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Madison Mountaineering expedition team members Kristen, Kim and Max approaching Namche Bazaar (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Enjoying lunch in Jorsalle (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Enjoying lunch in Jorsalle (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Sunny weather in the Khumbu Valley (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Sunny weather in the Khumbu Valley (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Madison Mountaineering fall Nepal expedition members starting their trek up the Khumbu Valley (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Today was another magnificent day in Nepal with our Madison Mountaineering teams leaving the lowlands and stepping foot onto the trail! The team had perfect flying conditions with views all around of beautiful country and the high peaks of the Himalaya. With their first day of trekking under their belts, the team continues further up the valley tomorrow to Namche Bazaar. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Khumbu:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering expeditions in Nepal – it’s Sunday, October 22nd. Today our teams here in Nepal flew from Ramechhap (1218m/3,999ft) to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft). We had excellent weather for our flights, not a cloud in the sky! So, we had great views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and other beautiful peaks as we flew to Lukla. We touched down, had a late breakfast, and then enjoyed a leisurely walk to Phakding (2610m/8,562ft). We had just great weather, really pleasant temperatures for the entire walk down to Phakding!

So, we’re just about ready for dinner here. It’s a peaceful evening on the banks of the Dudh Koshi River. The plan tomorrow is to wake up nice and early, and then hike to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) – the heart of the Khumbu Valley! We expect another great tomorrow, the forecast is excellent.

So the teams with us right now are our Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) trekkers, our base camp trekkers who will also climb Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) and Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft), and then our Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) climbers as well. So, all is well here and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Touching down in Lukla!(Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Touching down in Lukla! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Ama Dablam climber Anna trekking to Phakding (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Ama Dablam climber, Anna trekking to Phakding (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Trekking from Lukla to Phakding on a peaceful evening in the Khumbu Valley (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Trekking from Lukla to Phakding on a peaceful evening in the Khumbu Valley (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp trekker, Kirk spinning prayer wheels en route to Phakding (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp trekker, Kirk spinning prayer wheels en route to Phakding (photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The Madison Mountaineering team with the summit of Mount Everest all to themselves on May 24, 2023 (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

We had great climbs of Everest (May 24th) and Lhotse (May 25th). The conditions were the best I’ve ever had on summit day; warm, calm, and hardly any other climbers on the route. We had the summit all to ourselves for over an hour. In addition to eight clients, four guides, and 15 Nepal Sherpas reaching the summit of Everest, we had three clients, two guides, and three Sherpas reach the summit of Lhotse the following day. Peter Horsman became the first Dutchman, Debbie Bulten became the first Canadian woman, and Danah Ali became the first Emirati to complete the Everest & Lhotse peak to peak combination.

Unfortunately, on the way down from Camp 4 on May 25th at 7500m, one of our climbers, Pieter Swart passed away in the evening from a rapid onset lung infection / pulmonary edema. Guides, Terray Sylvester & Scott Webster spent the entire day with him assisting in his descent, joined by myself and Cacho Beiza from 1:00 pm onwards after our Lhotse climb, as we attempted to descend with him down to Camp 3 where a helicopter rescue might be possible. We will remember him fondly for his kindness and enthusiasm towards our team and for living life to the fullest.

At this time, our focus is working with the Nepalese agencies to support Pieter’s family and our team as we conclude our expedition here in Nepal.

To higher places,

Garrett Madison


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The 2023 Madison Mountaineering team is back in base camp after summits on Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with a quick update from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition. Today is May 26th, we’re down in base camp (5364m/17,598ft).

We had great climbs of Everest, Lhotse, also Nuptse earlier in the season. The last of our Sherpas are coming down the mountain tomorrow. Some of our climbers have already flown to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft), enjoying hot showers in a hotel room tonight. The rest of us are here in base camp and planning to head out tomorrow.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

On May 25th at approximately 10:25 AM local time, our team of Lhotse climbers successfully reached the summit of the world’s fourth highest peak and are returning to Camp 2! We are extremely proud of the team and this tremendous accomplishment. With that, we are pleased to present the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Lhotse summiteers list:

# NAME COUNTRY
1 Garrett Madison United States
2 Debbie Bulten Canada
3 Danah Al Ali United Arab Emirates
4 Javier “Cacho” Beiza Argentina
5 Peter Horsman Netherlands
6 Lakpa Sherpa Nepal
7 Aang Phurba Sherpa Nepal
8 Dawa Tenji Sherpa Nepal

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram: