Tag Archive for: Khumbu Icefall

Some Snow at Everest Base Camp

Guide Rob Smith and climber Chase Merriam sharpening skills at the base of the Khumbu Icefall

The beautiful weather of the rest break has been snapped by some snow and fog at Everest Base Camp.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with the day’s dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is Saturday, April 30th and we’re in Everest Base Camp.

It’s been snowing and foggy today.  It’s supposed to have some snow tomorrow and little more cloudy weather for the next day or two, but we’re all doing great.  We did some training today out on the Khumbu Icefall and Glacier just next to base camp and everyone’s doing good here in base camp.

Our small private team of Kenton Cool, Rebecca Louise, and Elia Saikaly are all up at Camp 2 (on an acclimitization rotation).  They will be coming down in the next couple of days.

All’s well here on Mount Everest, we’re acclimatizing, we’re doing great, watching lots of movies after dinner, and enjoying our time here.  We’ll check in soon, thanks!

Everest Base Camp sweet Everest Base Camp (aka home)

Everest Base Camp sweet Everest Base Camp (aka home)

Climber Josh Garrison continues training prior to the second rotation on Everest

Climber Josh Garrison continues training prior to the second rotation on Everest

More practice near Everest base camp

Climber Chase Merriam doing more fixed line practice near Everest base camp

Everest second rotation warm-up on the Khumbu Glacier

Everest second rotation warm-up on the Khumbu Glacier

Refining climbing skills before the second rotation on Everest

Refining climbing skills before the second rotation on Everest

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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First Rotation – Camp 1

Camp 1 from above

To start the first acclimatization rotation, the Everest team climbed up through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1.  We received a partial audio message via sat phone from expedition leader Garrett Madison and that was augmented with a text message via Garmin inReach from guide Terray Sylvester.

From Garrett:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse team expedition!  Today’s April 20th and today we climbed from base camp (5310m/17,421ft) up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft).  We left base camp about 02:00am after… [transmission cuts out]

From Terray:

Hello from Camp 1! We left base camp at 2 a.m. and had good climbing conditions through the Khumbu Icefall with few people on the route. The team is strong, healthy overall. We’re looking forward to an acclimatization day here tomorrow before moving up to Camp 2.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ready for First Rotation!

Everest team getting a taste of the Khumbu Icefall before the 1st rotation

Climb on!  The time has finally come to get going up the mountain.  Our Everest team is ready to start its first acclimatization rotation.  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with the day’s recap and the plan for the days ahead on the mountain:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s April 19th.

Today we enjoyed beautiful weather as we dipped our toes into the lower portion of the Khumbu Icefall.  We climbed up to about 17,600ft (5364m) or so in the icefall, just enough to go up a few steep sections and do a rappel on the way down.  A chance to get a little feel for it before we wake up at 01:00am this evening and head up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft)!

We’re looking forward to starting our first rotation on the mountain.  We’ll go up to Camp 1 where we plan to spend two nights, then we’ll move up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) for two nights and then come down on the fifth day.

Everyone’s in good spirits and the weather continues to be absolutely beautiful.

So, we’re looking forward to getting on the mountain!  We’ll be in touch.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Rest Day and Birthday Cake at Base Camp

Celebrating climber Roi Negri's birthday at Everest base camp

Our Everest team enjoyed a rest day at Everest base camp today – it also came with cake!  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with today’s audio expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s April 18th.

Today was a rest day and people were free to catch up on laundry, take showers, go for walks around base camp and a bit farther afield. It was beautiful weather, yet again.

In the evening we had a dinner of cheesy potatoes, teriakyi BBQ chicken, fresh veggies and for dessert a birthday cake for our climber, Roi Negri. Then we watched the “The Big Lebowski.”

So, all is well here and we will be in touch.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Puja Ceremony at EBC

Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp

Today, the Everest team wrapped up their technical skills training and enjoyed their traditional Puja Ceremony at base camp.  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with today’s audio expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s April 17th.

Today we wrapped up our technical training on the ice pinnacles right below base camp here on the Khumbu Glacier.  And then, in the afternoon, we had our pre-climb Puja.  Today is an auspicious day for that in the Tibetan calendar.  And so it was a great ceremony with blessings for everybody and lots of dancing afterward.  That ceremony is just intended to ask permission to climb the mountain and ensure safe passage up and down for all of us.

The team is in good spirits – everyone is doing really well with their training.

Tomorrow we’ll likely have a rest day as we prepare for our move up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) for our first acclimatization rotation, which will probably happen sometime in the next few days.

So, we’ll be in touch!

Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp

Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp

Sirdar Aang Phurba putting barley flour on climber Cameron Kenny’s face to ensure a long life

Sirdar Aang Phurba putting barley flour on climber Cameron Kenny’s face to ensure a long life

Puja dance celebration

Puja celebration

Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp

The whole 2022 climbing team after the puja

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Great Weather Continues

Climber Todd Ammerman traversing on fixed lines

The Everest team continues to fill their initial time at base camp with technical skills training.  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with today’s audio expedition dispatch from Everest base camp:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s April 16th.

Today we spent another morning praticing our technical skills on the ice spires right beside base camp – more rappelling and ascending, traversing on fixed lines, plus ladder practice.  The whole course was a little bit steeper.  Yet again we had really beautiful weather.

So, tonight we’ll probably watch “The Spy Who Loved Me“, the 1977 Roger Moore/James Bond film and get to bed.

Tomorrow we’re looking forward to our puja ceremony!

Okay, we’ll be in touch.

Ladder practice near Everest base camp

Ladder practice near Everest base camp

The team about to start training

The team about to start training

Climber Carter Beck rappelling

Climber Carter Beck rappelling

Climber Josh Garrison traversing on fixed lines

Climber Josh Garrison traversing on fixed lines

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Practice Makes Perfect

Climber Cameron Kenny practices ascending fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier

Our Everest team members are sharpening their technical skills on the ice.  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with today’s audio expedition dispatch from Everest base camp:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s Friday, April 15th.

Today our team of climbers ventured out on to the pinnacles of ice right next to base camp here on the Khumbu Glacier and we practiced fixed-line technique, traversing on fixed lines, ascending/descending.  That’s one of the most fun things we do here in base camp.  It’s just like a playground out there on the glacier.

So, everyone did great, it was beautiful weather, and most likely we will do more practice tomorrow.  Tonight we are going to finish “Interstellar” (movie) and we’re looking forward to another great dinner here in the dining tent.

So, we will be in touch.

Climber David Courtney enjoying beautiful weather in the Himalayas

Climber David Courtney enjoying beautiful weather in the Himalayas

Climber Sara Safari ascending a fixed line

Climber Sara Safari ascending a fixed line

Climber Dwight Crow practices traversing on fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier

Climber Dwight Crow practices traversing on fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier

Good times practicing technical skills

Good times practicing technical skills

Climber Cameron Kenny practices ascending fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier

Climber Cameron Kenny practices ascending fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Settling into Base Camp Life

The view from base camp as the moon rose over the west shoulder of Mount Everest

Our Everest team is settling into base camp life and today hiked up the slopes of Pumori to its camp 1 at 5486m.  Guide Terray Sylvester has today’s audio expedition dispatch from Everest base camp:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s April 14th.

We continue to have to have great weather here in base camp. Today we had a little bit of snow overnight, a little cloudiness in the morning, but the rest of the day was really brilliant blue skies with very crisp clear views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. The team hiked up to camp 1 on Pumori today higher than 18,000ft to acclimatize. It’s part of our continuing preparation for our first rotation up to Camp 1 and Camp 2, which will hopefully start in a few days.

So, everyone is doing well here! We had a great dinner of momos, chicken, and then watched the first half of “Interstellar” after dinner. We’ll finish that off tomorrow.

So, we will be in touch.

The team at Pumori Camp 1 on an acclimatization hike today

The team at Pumori Camp 1 on an acclimatization hike today

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Training and Organizing in Everest Base Camp

Training in the Khumbu Icefall

With our EBC trekkers and Lobuche/Island Peak climbers headed out from Everest base camp to continue their adventures, the Everest climbing team has started to turn their attention to getting things ready for their first acclimatization rotation in a few days by organizing their gear and starting some initial skills refresh.  Expedition leader Garrett Madison provides a recap of the day:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition team!  Today is April 13th.  We are in Everest Base Camp.  We arrived yesterday and we are doing great! A beautiful sunny morning today, we saw off our trekkers who headed down valley back to Kathmandu by helicopter. The climbing team put on their crampons, grabbed our ice axes and went out for a walk in the lower Icefall to scope out the terrain.

It was a beautiful morning, lots of great views and we came back to camp and did a little gear organizing.  We just had a relaxing afternoon. We’re going to have a good dinner now, watch a movie tonight, and we look forward to a good rest.

So, all is well here at Everest Base Camp. It is snowing here at the moment and we are really happy to be here.

Just thrilled to get up into the Khumbu icefall here in about a week’s time after we do our training.

Training in the Khumbu Icefall

Training in the Khumbu Icefall

A view from todays training

A view from today’s training

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Push Update: Team safely at Camp IV

Camp 4

Today our Everest/Lhotse team moved up from Camp III to Camp IV on the South Col.  Conditions were tough with the wind and snow, but everyone did great and are now safely tucked into their tents.  The plan is to take a rest day tomorrow  (5/22) and go for the summit on the following early morning (5/23).  Currently, the wind is blowing on the South Col and it’s too noisy for an audio dispatch.  Via our satellite communicator, here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison‘s quick text update:

Greetings from Camp 4 at the South Col.  We all made it up here, tough conditions.  Will rest tomorrow (22) and leave 22 night for the summit AM of 23.

(photo: Madison Mountaineering archives)

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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