Tag Archive for: Khumbu Icefall

Camp 2

Today the Everest team tagged Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face and returned to Camp 2 as part of the second rotation.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is Wednesday, May 4th.

We had a great day up here climbing to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and returning to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft)… [transmission drops]


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Camp 2

The second rotation has kicked off with an excellent night of climbing up the Khumbu Icefall and a warming morning in the Western Cwm.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is May 2nd.

Today we woke up and had breakfast at 01:00am in base camp (5310m/17,421ft), left base camp at 02:00am, and climbed up the Khumbu Icefall.  We had a beautiful night and early morning of climbing.  There’s some fresh snow in the icefall which made it very nice.  Once the sun came up we have some good views.  Not many people in the icefall today, just a couple of other teams – some friends we recongized.

We got up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) around 08:00am and then we continued on up to Camp 2.  Got up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) midday, had lunch, and just took an afternoon nap.

We just finished our dinner.  Everyone’s up here doing great!  We’re tired, it was a big, hard day – long day, hot at the end coming into Camp 2 but everyone did really well.  We’re recovering well and looking forward to a nice rest day tomorrow.  It’s snowing right now outside our tents.  We’re tucked in and looking foward to a good night’s rest.

We’ll check in soon, thanks!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Everest Base Camp at night

Our Everest team is ready for the second rotation and will be heading up as soon as the weather allows.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with the day’s dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is May 1st.  It’s been a snow day here in base camp.  Nice weather, but cloudy and snowing – we’ve had fun.

We’ve been getting ready for our planned departure tonight to begin our second rotation up to the higher camps.  However, we’re going to wake up around midnight and check the weather.  If it’s good, we’ll go.  If it’s snowing, it’s a blizard, we’ll obviously stay here and wait one more day.

Everyone’s doing great and we’re excited to get up the mountain soon.

We’ll check in again soon!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Guide Rob Smith and climber Chase Merriam sharpening skills at the base of the Khumbu Icefall

The beautiful weather of the rest break has been snapped by some snow and fog at Everest Base Camp.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with the day’s dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is Saturday, April 30th and we’re in Everest Base Camp.

It’s been snowing and foggy today.  It’s supposed to have some snow tomorrow and little more cloudy weather for the next day or two, but we’re all doing great.  We did some training today out on the Khumbu Icefall and Glacier just next to base camp and everyone’s doing good here in base camp.

Our small private team of Kenton Cool, Rebecca Louise, and Elia Saikaly are all up at Camp 2 (on an acclimitization rotation).  They will be coming down in the next couple of days.

All’s well here on Mount Everest, we’re acclimatizing, we’re doing great, watching lots of movies after dinner, and enjoying our time here.  We’ll check in soon, thanks!

Everest Base Camp sweet Everest Base Camp (aka home)

Everest Base Camp sweet Everest Base Camp (aka home)

Climber Josh Garrison continues training prior to the second rotation on Everest

Climber Josh Garrison continues training prior to the second rotation on Everest

More practice near Everest base camp

Climber Chase Merriam doing more fixed line practice near Everest base camp

Everest second rotation warm-up on the Khumbu Glacier

Everest second rotation warm-up on the Khumbu Glacier

Refining climbing skills before the second rotation on Everest

Refining climbing skills before the second rotation on Everest


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Camp 1 from above

To start the first acclimatization rotation, the Everest team climbed up through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1.  We received a partial audio message via sat phone from expedition leader Garrett Madison and that was augmented with a text message via Garmin inReach from guide Terray Sylvester.

From Garrett:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse team expedition!  Today’s April 20th and today we climbed from base camp (5310m/17,421ft) up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft).  We left base camp about 02:00am after… [transmission cuts out]

From Terray:

Hello from Camp 1! We left base camp at 2 a.m. and had good climbing conditions through the Khumbu Icefall with few people on the route. The team is strong, healthy overall. We’re looking forward to an acclimatization day here tomorrow before moving up to Camp 2.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Everest team getting a taste of the Khumbu Icefall before the 1st rotation

Climb on!  The time has finally come to get going up the mountain.  Our Everest team is ready to start its first acclimatization rotation.  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with the day’s recap and the plan for the days ahead on the mountain:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s April 19th.

Today we enjoyed beautiful weather as we dipped our toes into the lower portion of the Khumbu Icefall.  We climbed up to about 17,600ft (5364m) or so in the icefall, just enough to go up a few steep sections and do a rappel on the way down.  A chance to get a little feel for it before we wake up at 01:00am this evening and head up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft)!

We’re looking forward to starting our first rotation on the mountain.  We’ll go up to Camp 1 where we plan to spend two nights, then we’ll move up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) for two nights and then come down on the fifth day.

Everyone’s in good spirits and the weather continues to be absolutely beautiful.

So, we’re looking forward to getting on the mountain!  We’ll be in touch.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Celebrating climber Roi Negri's birthday at Everest base camp

Our Everest team enjoyed a rest day at Everest base camp today – it also came with cake!  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with today’s audio expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s April 18th.

Today was a rest day and people were free to catch up on laundry, take showers, go for walks around base camp and a bit farther afield. It was beautiful weather, yet again.

In the evening we had a dinner of cheesy potatoes, teriakyi BBQ chicken, fresh veggies and for dessert a birthday cake for our climber, Roi Negri. Then we watched the “The Big Lebowski.”

So, all is well here and we will be in touch.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp

Today, the Everest team wrapped up their technical skills training and enjoyed their traditional Puja Ceremony at base camp.  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with today’s audio expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s April 17th.

Today we wrapped up our technical training on the ice pinnacles right below base camp here on the Khumbu Glacier.  And then, in the afternoon, we had our pre-climb Puja.  Today is an auspicious day for that in the Tibetan calendar.  And so it was a great ceremony with blessings for everybody and lots of dancing afterward.  That ceremony is just intended to ask permission to climb the mountain and ensure safe passage up and down for all of us.

The team is in good spirits – everyone is doing really well with their training.

Tomorrow we’ll likely have a rest day as we prepare for our move up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) for our first acclimatization rotation, which will probably happen sometime in the next few days.

So, we’ll be in touch!

Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp

Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp

Sirdar Aang Phurba putting barley flour on climber Cameron Kenny’s face to ensure a long life

Sirdar Aang Phurba putting barley flour on climber Cameron Kenny’s face to ensure a long life

Puja dance celebration

Puja celebration

Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp

The whole 2022 climbing team after the puja


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Todd Ammerman traversing on fixed lines

The Everest team continues to fill their initial time at base camp with technical skills training.  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with today’s audio expedition dispatch from Everest base camp:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s April 16th.

Today we spent another morning praticing our technical skills on the ice spires right beside base camp – more rappelling and ascending, traversing on fixed lines, plus ladder practice.  The whole course was a little bit steeper.  Yet again we had really beautiful weather.

So, tonight we’ll probably watch “The Spy Who Loved Me“, the 1977 Roger Moore/James Bond film and get to bed.

Tomorrow we’re looking forward to our puja ceremony!

Okay, we’ll be in touch.

Ladder practice near Everest base camp

Ladder practice near Everest base camp

The team about to start training

The team about to start training

Climber Carter Beck rappelling

Climber Carter Beck rappelling

Climber Josh Garrison traversing on fixed lines

Climber Josh Garrison traversing on fixed lines


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Cameron Kenny practices ascending fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier

Our Everest team members are sharpening their technical skills on the ice.  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with today’s audio expedition dispatch from Everest base camp:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s Friday, April 15th.

Today our team of climbers ventured out on to the pinnacles of ice right next to base camp here on the Khumbu Glacier and we practiced fixed-line technique, traversing on fixed lines, ascending/descending.  That’s one of the most fun things we do here in base camp.  It’s just like a playground out there on the glacier.

So, everyone did great, it was beautiful weather, and most likely we will do more practice tomorrow.  Tonight we are going to finish “Interstellar” (movie) and we’re looking forward to another great dinner here in the dining tent.

So, we will be in touch.

Climber David Courtney enjoying beautiful weather in the Himalayas

Climber David Courtney enjoying beautiful weather in the Himalayas

Climber Sara Safari ascending a fixed line

Climber Sara Safari ascending a fixed line

Climber Dwight Crow practices traversing on fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier

Climber Dwight Crow practices traversing on fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier

Good times practicing technical skills

Good times practicing technical skills

Climber Cameron Kenny practices ascending fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier

Climber Cameron Kenny practices ascending fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram: