Tag Archive for: Khumbu Icefall

Woohoo!  Our Everest and Lhotse expedition team all summited Mount Everest today!  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, calls in from Mount Everest’s South Col high camp with the happy details:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is May 20th.

Today we summitted Mount Everest!  The whole team:  all nine (9) clients, four (4) guides, and our whole team of Sherpas summitted Mount Everest today around 7:00 to 8:00am.

We had some great views from up there, good route conditions, we had the whole route to ourselves, hardly another climber up there, and we made our way back down to high camp.  The whole team made it safely back to high camp by mid-afternoon.

We’ve been resting up and we’re getting ready to go for our Lhotse attempt.  A few of us are going to set off tonight around midnight and head off towards Mount Lhotse.  The rest of the team will sleep here at the South Col Camp 4 and pack up tomorrow morning, and head down to Camp 2.  So, we’ll all be heading down to Camp 2 eventually tomorrow afternoon.

Great job today to our whole team!  100% success!  We all made it up to the summit of Everest and down safe.  I’m very proud of this team.  I couldn’t be happier.  They earned it.

We’re keeping our fingers crossed for Lhotse tonight.  Hopefuly it works out for those of us going for the double header – Everest/Lhotse combination.

So, checking in for Madison Mountaineering.  We’ll check in tomorrow.

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

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Camp 4

The Everest and Lhotse expedition team is staged to head up from Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) to the summit very soon now!  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with this brief update:

Good morning from C4! Having brkfast now, inst oatmeal then dehy eggs, yum! But hardly any wind!..everyone doing well at the moment:) we’re the only team here! Resting up to probably head up tonight around 1:00am.

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The route up the Lhotse Face above Camp 3, over the Yellow Band and left over the Geneva Spur (📸: @terray_s)

The team is safely in place on Mount Everest’s South Col at Camp 4.  It’s now just over 24 hours before they will start out for the summit – weather permitting.  Everest guide Terray Sylvester sends today’s expedition dispatch via Garmin inReach Mini:

Hello from Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on the South Col of Mount Everest!

Today we had beautiful weather as we moved up from Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft). There were no other teams on the route. So we moved efficiently without traffic jams and made great time. Along the way we had spectacular views back down the Western Cwm and of some of Everest’s giant neighbors, including Cho Oyu.

We plan to rest here tomorrow before heading for the summit.

We’ll be in touch!

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives, 📸: @terray_s)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Tents at Camp 3 and the Western Cwm below it (📸: @terray_s)

The Everest and Lhotse expedition team has climbed from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) on their summit push.  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with this brief update:

Greetings from C3. Everyone made it up here today and doing great! Planning to climb to C4 tmrw. A little windy but all good.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Mount Everest and Lhotse (📸: @terray_s)

On their summit push, the Everest and Lhotse expedition team strategically took another rest day at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft).  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with this brief update:

All is well in C2. Our main team is planning to move to C3 tmrw, targeting the 20th. Kenton & team all safely in EBC.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team getting comfortable with their down suits before the climb to Camp 3 the following day

Our Everest team has extended their rest period at Camp 2 to time their summit attempt for the best-forecasted weather.  Everest guide Terray Sylvester sends this evening’s expedition dispatch via Garmin inReach Mini:

Hello from Camp 2!  All is well.

Our team rested here today, reading, napping and admiring the scenery, including a paraglider(!) who launched from the South Col. Our forecast indicates we’ll have the best summit weather if we rest here one more day before climbing higher. So our plan is now to move to Camp 3 on the 17th.

We’ll be in touch!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Camp 2 (📸: @terray_s)

Our Everest team has safely moved up to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm to kick off their summit push!  Everest guide Terray Sylvester sends this expedition dispatch via Garmin inReach Mini:

Hello from Camp 2!

Our Everest and Lhotse climbers ascended from base camp to our advanced base camp (aka Camp 2) here at 21,300′ (6500m) yesterday in great weather. We’ll rest here now before climbing to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), where we’ll spend a night before continuing up to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) at the South Col.

The team is feeling good!

We’ll be in touch!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Mount Everest

All the preparations are done and have led up to this moment.  Our Everest team is catching a few more hours of sleep before they start up the mountain on their summit push!  Everest guide Terray Sylvester outlines the plan in today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s May 13th.

We are just going to bed in preparation for the first day of our summit push, which will actually start at about 1am tonight.  We’ll have breakfast at midnight and then we’ll set off out up into the Icefall and on to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft).  From there we plan to take a rest day and then we will start making up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) and hopefully on to the summit (8848m/29,029ft) in a little less than a week.  The forecast looks good and spirits are high with the team.  Everyone’s pysched to get going and start our summit push.

So, it’s good night here in base camp and we’re looking forward to getting the climbing started.

We will be in touch as we make our way up the mountain!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Saskia Jacobson practicing the use of the oxygen mask (📸: @terray_s)

Summit push preparations are in full swing at Everest base camp.  Here’s Everest guide Terray Sylvester with a recap of the day’s activities at base camp and the plan for what’s next:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s May 12th.

Today we did some preparation for our summit push.  We did an instructional oxygen system talk here in base camp and we sorted food for our high camps.  The weather forecast still looks good for our departure, not tomorrow but the following morning early, pre-dawn.

Spirits are high and we’re all looking forward to getting started up the mountain

We will be in touch!

Guide Rob Smith providing instruction on the oxygen system (📸: @terray_s)

Guide Rob Smith providing instruction on the oxygen system (📸: @terray_s)

Climber Todd Ammerman gives the O2 mask two thumbs up! (📸: @terray_s)

Climber Todd Ammerman gives the O2 mask two thumbs up! (📸: @terray_s)

Climber Cameron Kenny trying on his oxygen mask (📸: @terray_s)

Climber Cameron Kenny trying on his oxygen mask (📸: @terray_s)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Josh Garrison departing for EBC (📸: @terray_s)

The “dropback” rest period is complete and the team has returned to base camp.  Here’s Everest guide Terray Sylvester with a recap and the plan for what’s next:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s May 11th.

Today our climbers flew back from Namche Bazaar where they were resting for a few days pre-summit attempt. Great weather for the flights, really beautiful scenery. We settled back into base camp and had a nice dinner of pork chops, roast pumpkin, mashed potatoes, green beans, carrots, and fruit salad for dessert.

Now, we are settling in to watch “Gladiator“! Our summit plans have taken shape and in all likelihood we will leave base camp within the next couple of days, aiming for a summit in just a little over a week.

So, all is well here in base camp. It’s a beautiful warm and misty night.

We will be in touch!

Sara Safari leaving Namche for EBC (📸: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/terray_s/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">@terray_s</a>)

Sara Safari leaving Namche for EBC (📸: @terray_s)

Cockpit view (📸: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/terray_s/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">@terray_s</a>)

Cockpit view (📸: @terray_s)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram: