Tag Archive for: Khumbu Icefall

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison teaching the team how to use our oxygen system. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

All the training and preparation is done, and there’s only one thing left to do! The team is settled into their base camp homes for a few more hours of shut eye before they depart out of base camp, and once again, onto the mountain. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison lays out todays plan as the team gets an alpine start in just a few short hours:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. Today is May 17th and tonight we are starting our summit rotation, heading up from Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). We’re departing in a few hours time, around 1:00 AM. Hopefully we’ll have a smooth climb up through the Khumbu Icefall and get up to Camp 2 mid day.

So, we’re looking forward to kicking things off here! The weather looks great, crowds have thinned, we’ve done all of our training and preparation, and we’re ready to go! So, very excited to be headed up the mountain and attempting to summit Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse.

Guide, Scott Webster and climber, Stevie Hornik. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Scott Webster and climber, Stevie Hornik. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Danah Al Ali practicing technical skills near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Danah Al Ali practicing technical skills near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Eva Perglerova ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Eva Perglerova ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rich Draves practicing ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rich Draves practicing ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Stevie Hornik and Peter Horsman practicing with oxygen equipment. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Stevie Hornik and Peter Horsman practicing with oxygen equipment. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Erwin Visser and Rich Draves practicing with oxygen equipment under the instruction of Garrett Madison. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Erwin Visser and Rich Draves practicing with oxygen equipment under the instruction of Garrett Madison. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Guide, Cacho Beiza helping climbers, Rick Irvine and Serge Larouche polish their technical skills on the Khumbu Glacier near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Here we go! With good weather in the forecast, technical trainings complete, and acclimatization done, the team is primed and ready to make their summit push! The team has one more day of rest and preparation before they, once again, venture through the Khumbu Icefall and up the mountain. Only this time, with plans to go for the summit! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition. Today is May 16th and we are preparing to head up soon to start our summit rotation!

Today, we did a little training review, went for a short hike, went over our oxygen systems and talked through what to expect on the summit push! Tomorrow, we’re going to rest and organize our final equipment, and then plan to head up tomorrow night, about 24 hours from now to start our summit rotation.

We’re looking at May 23rd for our potential Everest summit date. So, fingers crossed the weather holds, the conditions are good, and we get lucky! We’re excited, this is what we’ve been working for all year and we’re looking forward to get the climb underway.

Climber, Rick Irvine training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza helping climbers, Rick Irvine and Serge Larouche polish their technical skills on the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza helping climbers, Rick Irvine and Serge Larouche polish their technical skills on the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Serge Larouche training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Serge Larouche training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The "first wave" team testing out their down suits in Camp 2 at 21,300'. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

After several days and nights spent above the Khumbu Icefall in the Western Cwm, the Madison Mountaineering team’s second acclimatization rotation is coming to a close! With a few days of rest and relaxation ahead, the team can start to look forward to their summit push. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is May 5th.

This morning our first wave of Everest and Lhotse climbers wrapped up their second acclimatization foray on the mountain. They spent three nights at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), climbed up toward the Lhotse face one day, and then this morning we returned back down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). It was absolutely beautiful weather for that descent and we had great conditions as we descended through the Khumbu Icefall, which is in really excellent shape this year!

Meanwhile, the second wave of our Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers are at Camp 2. They moved from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) to Camp 2 today, they’ll spend several nights there acclimatizing, and then descend back to base camp. If weather and route conditions allow, then some of those climbers will head up to Nuptse as well!

So, all is well here in base camp! Tomorrow, our first wave of climbers will start their drop back in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We’ll fly down the valley via helicopter to rest and relax, and prepare for our summit push. We’ll be in touch!

Morning light on Pumori as the "first wave" moved to Camp 2. (Photo: terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Pumori as the “first wave” moved to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, in the Khumbu Icefall on the way to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, in the Khumbu Icefall on the way to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Peter Horsman, and the "first wave" team descending out of the Western Cwm toward base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Peter Horsman, and the “first wave” team descending out of the Western Cwm toward base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The second rotation for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse expeditions is underway in the Himalayas! The first of our teams to ascend through the icefall have successfully reached Camp 2, and our second team will make their first voyage into the icefall in a few hours time. In an effort to further acclimatize before their summit push, the teams plan to work further up the mountain before returning to base camp in a few days. With good weather, our Nuptse climbers will make an attempt on the dramatic looking peak that towers above Everest Base Camp below. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team. Today is Tuesday, May 2nd.

Early this morning our first wave of climbers left base camp (5364m/17,598ft) to climb up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) along with guides Terray Sylvester, Scott Webster and Aang Phurba Sherpa. Our second wave of climbers is leaving tonight along with myself and Cacho to climb up from base camp to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). (We’ll) spend a couple of nights at Camp 1 and then proceed on to Camp 2.

All of our climbers and teams will be up high the next few days acclimatizing, getting familiar with the route, and hopefully getting some great views up high of Everest! We’ll also try to go for Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) with our Nuptse climbers if conditions are good. It looks like high winds in the forecast, it’s been snowing the last few days, but hopefully the weather will be improving!

So, all is well here on Mount Everest and we’re excited to get climbing underway!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

With the collective team all together in Everest Base Camp (EBC), the team spent the majority of today resting up, with an acclimatization hike to get their bodies moving! With the second rotation coming, the team will continue to rest and will spend some more time practicing technical skills in the neighboring Khumbu Glacier to keep their mind and skills sharp before heading further up the mountain. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from EBC:

Hello! It’s Friday, April 28th. This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition!

Today we had a nice, restful day in base camp (5364m/17,598ft)! All of our climbers are here; our team that did the first rotation up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) was taking it easy here in base camp, and our team that climbed Lobuche peak (6119m/20,075ft) recently, and just arrived in base camp yesterday was taking it easy. Although, we did go for an acclimatization hike today just up above base camp. (We) had some great views, nice opportunity to stretch the legs, get some oxygen in the body. We’re just enjoying base camp!

We’re going to start doing a little more technical review over the next few days and start gearing up for our next rotation up to Camps 1 and 2, and touching Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft)!

It’s great weather at the moment, although there is a little snow in the forecast the next few days. But, the team’s doing well and we’re happy to be here! We’re looking forward to more good days ahead here on Mount Everest.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Everest Express climber, Danah Ali, acclimatizing above Pheriche! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The team all gathered together in base camp today after the completion of their first acclimatization rotations! With the first rotation under their belts, the team will enjoy some rest and relaxation the next few days before beginning preparation for their second rotation on the mountain. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this dispatch from Pheriche:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 27th.

Today our first wave of Everest climbers took a rest day in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) after returning down from Camp 2 after their first acclimatization rotation on the mountain.

Our second wave of climbers hiked back to base camp after successfully summiting Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) yesterday morning.

Down here in Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft), I went for a hike with our express climber, who arrived yesterday via helicopter. We went for a great hike above Dingboche (4410m/14,470ft) with fantastic views of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) and a nice sunny morning!

So, all continues to go well here in Nepal and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Everest Express climber, Danah Ali, during today's acclimatization hike. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Everest Express climber, Danah Ali, during today’s acclimatization hike. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Our Lobuche East climbers just after summiting this morning! Photo: Tenzi Sherpa

Today was a big day in the Himalayas for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse expedition teams! Over the course of the last few days, our teams have been busy on their first rotations in the Himalayas. Our first wave of climbers successfully completed their first rotation up to Camp 2, and are safely back in Everest Base Camp after descending through the icefall. Further down the Khumbu Valley, our second wave of climbers enjoyed good weather and climbing conditions on Lobuche East, and successfully reached the summit this morning before descending back to the village of Lobuche for the night! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition. Today is Wednesday, April 26.

We’ve got great news to report! Today, our first wave of climbers just returned down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) from our first rotation up at Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and 2 (6500m/21,325ft). We had a great rotation, four nights up high, and spent time hiking around Camp 2 at 21,300 feet, and made it down safely through the Khumbu Icefall today!

Our second wave of climbers, with guide Cacho Beiza, climbed Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) today and reached the summit ridge – beautiful views all around! They are now headed back to base camp tomorrow. So, our team will be all together!

Also, our Everest Express climber, Danah Ali arrived in Nepal and flew to the Khumbu Valley, and was met in Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft) village by guide, Terray Sylvester. She will be integrating with our team in the next few days!

So, we’ve been enjoying good conditions here on Everest. Our Sherpa team has been doing a fantastic job carrying loads up the mountain and helping us climb safely. We look forward to some good weather in the coming days and weeks ahead! Check in soon.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Our team acclimatizing above Camp 1 during an active rest day on April 23! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

With the bulk of our collective team all in the Khumbu region, the teams are well on their way towards the objectives forthcoming! Our first wave of climbers have had great climbing conditions so far, as they navigated their way through the complex terrain of the Khumbu Icefall and are now spending time acclimatizing in the Western Cwm. After a few days of technical training in Everest Base Camp, our second wave of climbers is on their way to start their first rotation on Lobuche! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this update from Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 24th.

Today our first wave of climbers here in Nepal moved from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). They plan to spend two nights at Camp 2, and then return to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). That will complete their first acclimatization rotation! The’ve had great conditions so far. They had particularly good climbing conditions two days ago when the moved to Camp 1 up through the Khumbu Icefall. They were essentially the only team in the icefall that night, which made for really pleasant, smooth climbing without any lines!

Meanwhile, our second wave of climbers just left base camp. They hiked down to the village of Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) today, and tomorrow they’ll move up to the Lobuche high camp, and then hopefully summit Lobuche peak (6119m/20,075ft) the following day. They spent the last two days practicing their technical skills here on the ice towers next to base camp.

So, all is well here in Nepal and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

The "second wave" about to depart for Lobuche! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The “second wave” about to depart for Lobuche! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Lhotse climber, Karl Yoder, near the top of the Khumbu Icefall! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Lhotse climber, Karl Yoder, near the top of the Khumbu Icefall! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our team in the Western Cwm! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our team in the Western Cwm! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our "second wave" of climbers training near base camp!

Our “second wave” of climbers training near base camp!

Technical training near base camp!

Technical training near base camp!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team climbing into the Khumbu Icefall! Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The first rotation for our Mount Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse teams is underway through the Khumbu Icefall! The team got an alpine start out of base camp and will move up to Camp 1 for the first time on this years expedition. After a few days of rest and training in base camp, the team is psyched and ready to start making their way higher up the mountain! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition ‘first wave.’ Today is April 22nd, it’s 2:00 A.M and we’re headed out from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) to start our first rotation up to Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and 2 (6500m/21,325ft). Our plan is to go up through the icefall to Camp 1 today and spend a couple of nights there, and then up to Camp 2 for a couple of nights!

It snowed yesterday and it looks like it’s cleared a little bit tonight. We’re excited to head up to the icefall, it looks like we’ll be the only team at the moment climbing up, with a little fresh snow on the route and hopefully a beautiful day ahead! We’ll check in when we’re down in a few days.

Our next wave with Cacho is arriving in base camp later today! All is well here on Mount Everest.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Our 'second wave' of climbers on top of Kala Patthar this afternoon, after hiking to Gorakshep!

While snow fell over base camp, our first team rested today and prepared for their first rotation through the Khumbu Icefall! They plan to wake up around midnight to start their climb towards Camp 1, knowing that they may push back their plan another day due to the fresh snowfall. Not far away, our second team reached Gorakshep and hiked up Kala Patthar. Despite the limited views, the team is in good spirits and psyched for the days ahead! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from the Khumbu:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expeditions – today is April 21st.

Today we took a rest day here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) while we packed and prepared for our first rotation up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) for two nights, and then Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) for two nights, and then back down. However, this evening it’s snowing hard in base camp, so there’s a chance we’ll wake up at midnight and defer the beginning of that rotation for another day.

Meanwhile, the other group of climbers here in the Khumbu Valley is in Gorakshep (5164m/16,942ft)! Today they hiked up Kala Patthar (5644m/18,519ft) – great acclimatization hike even though their views were limited due to the storm. And tomorrow they plan to move to base camp!

We’ll be in touch tomorrow.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram: