Tag Archive for: K2 base camp

Good Weather for Resting in Base Camp

Broad peak from the Gilkey memorial

The K2 team is enjoying some good weather for resting in base camp and looking forward to making their summit attempt plans after the next storm system passes through.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with all the details:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition team.  We are here in K2 Base Camp and weather is great.  It’s beautiful day and we’re just resting up.

Our sherpas are up on K2 on the Abruzzi Route finishing some load carries to Camp 3 and Camp 4 and some rope fixing as well and getting Camp 4 all stocked up with our equipment for our summit push which we hope do some time in late July.

It looks like after the next couple of days of good weather there will be some snow, a lot of snow actually, and some high winds for a few days.  So we are gonna let that storm system pass through and then hopefully by around July 24th we’ll have another patch of good weather enough to make a plan for a summit attempt.

So everyone’s doing well here, we’re just resting up, admiring the views.  We’re watching a few climbers make their summit push on Broad Peak right now.  They’re going up to Camp 3 and probably going for the summit tomorrow.  So it will be fun to watch their progress.

But, all’s well here in Pakistan on the Baltoro Glacier and we’ll check in soon.  Thanks!

Looking down the glacier towards Chogolisa from the Gilkey memorial

Looking down the glacier towards Chogolisa from the Gilkey memorial

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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(Almost) Live from the Karakorum!

Garrett video interview by Alan Arnette from Broad Peak base camp

Great video interview of Garrett Madison by the nexus of all high-altitude climbing news, Alan Arnette.

Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering is one of the few people on the planet to have summited K2 twice. He’s hoping to get his third this 2021 summer. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan.

With the new 4G Cell tower in Concordia, Garret took the hour walk from K2 Base Camp to Broad Peak Base Camp to talk with me over Zoom about his expedition. We discussed their rotations to Camp 1 and 2, the snow conditions on the mountain, what happens when he finds bodies on the mountain, and more. I think you’ll enjoy getting this first-hand information directly from Northern Pakistan.

Watch the video interview here:  https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/14/k2-2021-summer-coverage-video-interview-with-garrett-madison-from-the-karakorum/

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1st Rotation Complete!

Abruzzi Ridge on K2

The K2 team has completed the first acclimatization rotation up the mountain to Camp 2 and Garrett Madison, expedition leader, provides all the details in today’s expedition dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition.  Today is July 13 and yesterday we got down from our first rotation on the Abruzzi Ridge of K2.  We spent five nights in total above base camp: one night in Advanced Base Camp (ABC), two nights in Camp 1, and two nights in Camp 2 at about 22,200 ft.

We’re back in base camp and it’s stormin’!  It’s snowing, windy, and we’re hunkering down to stay warm.  Hopefully good weather’s on the way; we could use some sun and some warmth.  But everyone’s doing well here, we’re staying entertained with books, movies, board games, and just resting up and enjoying some GREAT food.  So, we’re very comfortable here and looking forward to some good weather in the days ahead.

We’ll check in soon, thanks!

Abruzzi Ridge on K2

Garrett Madison says “hello” from the Abruzzi Ridge on K2

The view from K2's Abruzzi Ridge

The view from K2’s Abruzzi Ridge

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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K2 Camp 2 on 1st Rotation

Climbing up K2 Abruzzi ridge!

Satellite comms are up again and Garrett and team check-in for K2’s Camp 2 on the Abruzzi Ridge with today’s dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition team.  Today is July 10th, and today we climbed from Camp 1 up to Camp 2 on the Abruzzi Ridge – about 22,000 ft. or almost 6700m.

We had great weather – beautiful sunny day today, awesome views all around.  The team is doing great, and we’re really enjoying this first rotation to acclimatize, getting familiar with the climbing route, and spend a couple of nights up here at Camp 2, and then we’ll be heading down to rest in base camp.

The sherpa team is doing great – they pushed up to Camp 3 and above yesterday.  So they’ve made great progress on the route, and they’re gonna head down tomorrow and take a little rest.  Looks like we’re going to take some high winds coming in a few day’s time, so it will be good to go down to base camp and rest for a bit and then revisit the upper mountain.

So all’s well here on K2, we’re enjoying ourselves, and having a great time here in Pakistan.

Climbing up K2 Abruzzi with the Black Pyramid above

Climbing up K2 Abruzzi with the Black Pyramid above

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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Puja at K2 Base Camp

We got a very garbled sat phone message from Garrett at K2 base camp today – audio below.  Garrett later added the following via inReach text messaging:

We had our puja ceremony today, it was a wonderful way to begin our climbing.

We will head up to ABC on our 1st rotation tomorrow and plan to climb to Camps 1 & 2, spending 2 nights in each camp. The weather looks good and everyone is doing well. Our Sherpas are also heading up to work on fixing the route.

The cell tower in Concordia is down so the Internet hasn’t been working the last couple days.

We’re excited to get up on the mountain and become familiar with the route and hopefully have some nice views!

(photo:  Madison Mountaineering K2 archives)

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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Happy 4th of July from K2 Base Camp!

Happy American Independence Day (4th of July) from K2 base camp!

Our K2 and Broad Peak team sends their happy 4th of July from K2 base camp.  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition team.  Today is July 4th.  Happy American Indepdence Day – 4th of July – to all you Americans out there!

We arrived at K2 base camp yesterday and today just had a nice rest day settling in and finishing building our camp.  We took showers, had a nice breakfast, lunch and actually got some good Internet connection with the cell tower down at Concordia.

Our plan is to take a few more rest days here, do our Puja ceremony, and get ready for our first rotation up to Camps I and II.  Everybody’s doing well here, we’re just so happy and grateful that things worked out for us to come to Pakistan and go on this expedition.  We got to base camp in record time and things are going great.

All’s well here at base camp.  We’ll check in soon.

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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K2 Base Camp!

Conan admiring the view of K2 from Broad Peak base camp

The 2021 K2 and Broad Peak expedition arrived at base camp today and Madison Mountaineering guide, Rob Smith, provides a recap of the final days of trekking to reach base camp:

Hi folks, this is Rob checking in for the 2021 Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition.

So yesterday we left Goro 2 camp on the Baltoro Glacier pretty early and made our way up to the head of the glacier, got our first views of K2, which was really exciting, and then we passed the Godwin-Austen Glacier, saw Broad Peak, Gasherbrum IV, and made our way all the way to Broad Peak base camp.  So, a long day yesterday, but well worth it!

Today we had a short hike it beautiful weather from Broad Peak base camp up to K2 base camp and that’s where we are tonight, which is really exciting to be here so soon, the 3rd of July.

Everyone’s feeling well and really excited for the upcoming expedition and we’ll check in again soon.  Thanks for listening!

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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Base camp departures begin

Helicopter taking Valerio, Gina, & Elizabeth out of K2 base camp to Skardu

With the season over, the base camp departures begin.  But if you are still in base camp, you might as well enjoy yourself!  Garrett provides these details:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the K2 climbing expedition.  Today is July 21st and we’re down in base camp.  A few of our members helicoptered to Skardu today, Valerio, Gina, and Elizabeth.  The rest of us, myself, Victor, Conan, Rick, and Brian are still in base camp.  We’re gonna continue packing up tomorrow and then start trekking out on the 23rd of July towards Skardu.  So, looking forward to heading out of here.  All’s well!  We had a great expedition and looking forward to heading home towards family and loved ones.

Rick chipping ice with a wooden ice axe, for gin and tonics in base camp

Rick chipping ice with a wooden shaft ice axe for gin and tonics in base camp!

View of route to K2 summitt from camp 4

View of the route to K2 summit from camp 4

Helicopter taking Valerio, Gina, & Elizabeth out of K2 base camp to Skardu

Helicopter taking Valerio, Gina, & Elizabeth out of K2 base camp to Skardu

 

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The decision to head home

The whole team is down off the mountain and all safely in base camp and will be heading home soon.  Stay tuned over the next few days for Garrett’s complete expedition recap as the team makes their way back to Islamabad and beyond.  Here’s Garrett with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the K2 expedition team.  We’re having a great time here at dinner!  Good spirits all around, you can hear the laughs in the background.  The whole team’s together and we’ve made the decision to head home.  We’re not gonna stay and climb anymore.  So, it’s been a great expedition here, wonderful journey, and we’re looking forward to heading home to family and loved ones.

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Summit Push Aborted

Descending the Cesen route on K2

The season’s snowfall on the upper slopes of K2 has won out, and unfortunately, the summit will have to wait for another year.  Today the team made the prudent decision to abort the summit push.  While one team member and his climbing Sherpa partner ascended to Camp 4 to spend the night, the remainder of the team descend from Camp 3 and are doing well in base camp.  We expect everyone to be in base camp tomorrow.  Here’s Garrett’s update:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the K2 climbing expedition.  We made a great attempt on K2 and unfortunately the snow conditions were just too unstable, too deep, and the avalanche risk too high for us to climb up past Camp 4 into the Bottleneck and the Traverse area.  Magnificent job by all pulling together as a team and working hard and in position for a summit, but The Mountain said no this time.  So, we’ve respected the mountain and we’ve come down to base camp.  All’s well here, and we’ll check in soon.

Descending the fixed ropes after we made the decision to turn around

Descending the fixed ropes after we made the decision to turn around

Descending the Cesen route on K2

Descending the Cesen route on K2

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