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Helicopter rescue today in K2 base camp of some Broad Peak climbers with frostbite

The weather looks good and our K2 team will begin their summit push tomorrow morning!  Expedition Leader, Garrett Madison has called in with this expedition dispatch:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition team. Today’s July 23rd and we are about to head up on our summit rotation.

Our plan is to leave base camp tomorrow morning on the 24th and head up to Camp 1, following day up to Camp 2, next day to Camp 3, following day to Camp 4 and to go for the summit on July 28th! So, fingers crossed we’ll have good weather and good route conditions and some great views up there. We’re looking forward to getting up high on the mountain and returning to Base Camp in about a week.

All’s well here, everyone’s excited, feeling well rested, healthy, strong, and looking forward to getting up the mountain. We’ll check in soon. Thanks!

The view of K2 on the eve of our summit push

The view of K2 on the eve of our summit push

The view of Broad Peak on the eve of our summit push

The view of Broad Peak on the eve of our summit push

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

The always awe-inspiring view from K2 base camp

Our K2/Broad Peak team is still waiting out the weather at K2 base camp.  Here’s Garrett with the latest status update:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition team.  Today’s July 22nd and we’ve had another easy, restful day here in base camp.

The stormy weather seems to be passing at the moment, but still windy up high.  We’re all doing well here in base camp, had a few showers today, and just going over our gear and our food, and our plan for our summit push which we hope to start sometime in the next week, but not sure when.  It all depends on the weather forecast.

So all’s well here in K2 and we’ll check in soon.

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

BBQ in K2 Base Camp!

With some great weather during their rest period, the team enjoyed some BBQ in K2 base camp.  Here is expedition leader Garrett Madison with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition team.  Today is July 18th and we’ve add a restful few days in base camp with some great weather the last few days.

Our sherpa team has finished carrying all of the equipment, oxygen, ropes, tents up to Camp 4 and fixing lines to Camp 4 on K2 and they’re all back in base camp now.  So, we’re resting here in base camp and there is a storm perdicted to develop starting tomorrow.  Big snowfall starting tomorrow over the next few days and then some very high winds up to 100km per hour near the summit.

So, our plan is to hunker down here in base camp for a few days, let the storm pass, and then, hopefully, we’ll have some good weather the last week of July starting the 24th or 25th and we can plan for our summit attempt.

We’ve been following the teams making their summit attempts on Broad Peak today and fingers crossed for them.  Wishing them the best of luck and a safe descent.  We’ll wait to see how that all plays out for them.  But all’s good here in K2 base camp and we look forward to checking in soon.

Today's view of K2 from base camp

Today’s view of K2 from base camp

BBQ in K2 Base Camp!

BBQ in K2 Base Camp!

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Broad peak from the Gilkey memorial

The K2 team is enjoying some good weather for resting in base camp and looking forward to making their summit attempt plans after the next storm system passes through.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with all the details:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition team.  We are here in K2 Base Camp and weather is great.  It’s beautiful day and we’re just resting up.

Our sherpas are up on K2 on the Abruzzi Route finishing some load carries to Camp 3 and Camp 4 and some rope fixing as well and getting Camp 4 all stocked up with our equipment for our summit push which we hope do some time in late July.

It looks like after the next couple of days of good weather there will be some snow, a lot of snow actually, and some high winds for a few days.  So we are gonna let that storm system pass through and then hopefully by around July 24th we’ll have another patch of good weather enough to make a plan for a summit attempt.

So everyone’s doing well here, we’re just resting up, admiring the views.  We’re watching a few climbers make their summit push on Broad Peak right now.  They’re going up to Camp 3 and probably going for the summit tomorrow.  So it will be fun to watch their progress.

But, all’s well here in Pakistan on the Baltoro Glacier and we’ll check in soon.  Thanks!

Looking down the glacier towards Chogolisa from the Gilkey memorial

Looking down the glacier towards Chogolisa from the Gilkey memorial

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Garrett video interview by Alan Arnette from Broad Peak base camp

Great video interview of Garrett Madison by the nexus of all high-altitude climbing news, Alan Arnette.

Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering is one of the few people on the planet to have summited K2 twice. He’s hoping to get his third this 2021 summer. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan.

With the new 4G Cell tower in Concordia, Garret took the hour walk from K2 Base Camp to Broad Peak Base Camp to talk with me over Zoom about his expedition. We discussed their rotations to Camp 1 and 2, the snow conditions on the mountain, what happens when he finds bodies on the mountain, and more. I think you’ll enjoy getting this first-hand information directly from Northern Pakistan.

Watch the video interview here:  https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/14/k2-2021-summer-coverage-video-interview-with-garrett-madison-from-the-karakorum/

Abruzzi Ridge on K2

The K2 team has completed the first acclimatization rotation up the mountain to Camp 2 and Garrett Madison, expedition leader, provides all the details in today’s expedition dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition.  Today is July 13 and yesterday we got down from our first rotation on the Abruzzi Ridge of K2.  We spent five nights in total above base camp: one night in Advanced Base Camp (ABC), two nights in Camp 1, and two nights in Camp 2 at about 22,200 ft.

We’re back in base camp and it’s stormin’!  It’s snowing, windy, and we’re hunkering down to stay warm.  Hopefully good weather’s on the way; we could use some sun and some warmth.  But everyone’s doing well here, we’re staying entertained with books, movies, board games, and just resting up and enjoying some GREAT food.  So, we’re very comfortable here and looking forward to some good weather in the days ahead.

We’ll check in soon, thanks!

Abruzzi Ridge on K2

Garrett Madison says “hello” from the Abruzzi Ridge on K2

The view from K2's Abruzzi Ridge

The view from K2’s Abruzzi Ridge

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Climbing up K2 Abruzzi ridge!

Satellite comms are up again and Garrett and team check-in for K2’s Camp 2 on the Abruzzi Ridge with today’s dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition team.  Today is July 10th, and today we climbed from Camp 1 up to Camp 2 on the Abruzzi Ridge – about 22,000 ft. or almost 6700m.

We had great weather – beautiful sunny day today, awesome views all around.  The team is doing great, and we’re really enjoying this first rotation to acclimatize, getting familiar with the climbing route, and spend a couple of nights up here at Camp 2, and then we’ll be heading down to rest in base camp.

The sherpa team is doing great – they pushed up to Camp 3 and above yesterday.  So they’ve made great progress on the route, and they’re gonna head down tomorrow and take a little rest.  Looks like we’re going to take some high winds coming in a few day’s time, so it will be good to go down to base camp and rest for a bit and then revisit the upper mountain.

So all’s well here on K2, we’re enjoying ourselves, and having a great time here in Pakistan.

Climbing up K2 Abruzzi with the Black Pyramid above

Climbing up K2 Abruzzi with the Black Pyramid above

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

We got a very garbled sat phone message from Garrett at K2 base camp today – audio below.  Garrett later added the following via inReach text messaging:

We had our puja ceremony today, it was a wonderful way to begin our climbing.

We will head up to ABC on our 1st rotation tomorrow and plan to climb to Camps 1 & 2, spending 2 nights in each camp. The weather looks good and everyone is doing well. Our Sherpas are also heading up to work on fixing the route.

The cell tower in Concordia is down so the Internet hasn’t been working the last couple days.

We’re excited to get up on the mountain and become familiar with the route and hopefully have some nice views!

(photo:  Madison Mountaineering K2 archives)

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Happy American Independence Day (4th of July) from K2 base camp!

Our K2 and Broad Peak team sends their happy 4th of July from K2 base camp.  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition team.  Today is July 4th.  Happy American Indepdence Day – 4th of July – to all you Americans out there!

We arrived at K2 base camp yesterday and today just had a nice rest day settling in and finishing building our camp.  We took showers, had a nice breakfast, lunch and actually got some good Internet connection with the cell tower down at Concordia.

Our plan is to take a few more rest days here, do our Puja ceremony, and get ready for our first rotation up to Camps I and II.  Everybody’s doing well here, we’re just so happy and grateful that things worked out for us to come to Pakistan and go on this expedition.  We got to base camp in record time and things are going great.

All’s well here at base camp.  We’ll check in soon.

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Conan admiring the view of K2 from Broad Peak base camp

The 2021 K2 and Broad Peak expedition arrived at base camp today and Madison Mountaineering guide, Rob Smith, provides a recap of the final days of trekking to reach base camp:

Hi folks, this is Rob checking in for the 2021 Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition.

So yesterday we left Goro 2 camp on the Baltoro Glacier pretty early and made our way up to the head of the glacier, got our first views of K2, which was really exciting, and then we passed the Godwin-Austen Glacier, saw Broad Peak, Gasherbrum IV, and made our way all the way to Broad Peak base camp.  So, a long day yesterday, but well worth it!

Today we had a short hike it beautiful weather from Broad Peak base camp up to K2 base camp and that’s where we are tonight, which is really exciting to be here so soon, the 3rd of July.

Everyone’s feeling well and really excited for the upcoming expedition and we’ll check in again soon.  Thanks for listening!

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map: