Tag Archive for: Camp 1

Acclimatization Rotation: Complete

Morning light on the summit of K2 from the Madison Mountaineering base camp. Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

After five nights spent on K2 during their acclimatization rotation, the team has safely and successfully descended back down to base camp! We had a great rotation up on the mountain, familiarizing ourselves with the route and acclimatizing to the altitude that we’ll experience during the summit rotation. The team plans to spend the next few days resting and preparing to make their summit push! With good weather in the forecast, the team will look to head back up the mountain soon, only this time going for the summit. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from K2 Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 (8611m/28,251ft) expedition. Today is July 19th and our team is all in base camp (4968m/16,300ft) resting and doing well! Yesterday the team came down from Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft), descending all the way from Camp 2 to Base Camp after concluding a great rotation – five nights of acclimatizing up on the route between Advanced Base Camp (5303m/17,400ft), Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft), and Camp 2.

The weather has been really nice! Sunny skies, it’s warmed up quite a bit, and we are just getting ready to strategize for our final rotation – our summit push, which hopefully will come in a few days time. We’re watching the weather forecast and working with other teams, coming up with a good plan for fixing the final ropes from Camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) to Camp 4 (7681m/25,200ft), and onto the summit!

So everyone is doing well here in K2 Base Camp and we’ll check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Acclimatization Rotation – Camp 2

Drone photos of Camp 2 on K2’s Abruzzi Ridge. Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Good news from K2! The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team’s acclimatization rotation has gone smoothly so far and will come to a conclusion tomorrow with the team descending back to base camp. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Pakistan:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 (8611m/28,251ft) expedition. Our team is up at Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) currently doing well on their acclimatization trip. (It’s) their first night up at Camp 2 and they reported good conditions climbing up from Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) today. Our Sherpa team and Pakistani porter team is also up in Camp 2 and they are planning to carry the oxygen and supplies up to Camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) tomorrow.

So the first rotation is going well and it looks like some good weather ahead in the forecast for the next couple of days. So we’re looking forward to more good days climbing on K2!

This is Garrett calling in from base camp (4968m/16,300ft). All is well here on K2! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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First Rotation Coming Up!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The 2023 Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team is primed and ready to move up the mountain for their first rotation! They’ve completed technical trainings to sharpen their skills for what they’ll face in the climbing ahead, organized their gear, and all there’s left to do is start the climb. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this update from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 (8611m/28,251ft) expedition team. Today is July 12th and we had another great day here training in base camp (4968m/16,300ft), reviewing all of the fixed line climbing techniques with the ascender and repelling down. We got organized for our first rotation – the plan is the team will head up to advanced based camp (5303m/17,400ft) tomorrow on the 13th, spend one night, and then head up to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) for a couple of nights and up to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) for a couple of nights. Back down in base camp by the 18th.

So the weather forecast is looking very [garbled] the next few days. Our team is ready to go and gain some altitude on K2, and get some good acclimatization in! So, all is well here in base camp. We’ll check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Camp 2 – Rest Day

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Following a full day yesterday, the team took a rest day today, enjoying good weather, food, and rest. The climbing has been smooth thus far and everyone is looking forward to the move up to Camp 3 tomorrow! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. We are up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) and everyone is doing well!

Yesterday, we climbed up from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) through the Khumbu Icefall, across Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), and up to Camp 2 here. Everyone is great. We have really good weather, good route conditions and got into Camp 2 in the afternoon.

It’ll be a nice restful day, dinner, and good night’s sleep. So, today we’re just resting. Our Sherpa team is up now on the Lhotse Face at Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), setting up our tent platforms and getting things ready for us to move up to Camp 3  tomorrow. So the plan is move up to Camp 3 on the 21st and the weather looks good! It looks like some calm days ahead, so we are excited for the forecast and moving up the mountain to give Everest and Lhotse our best shot!

So, we’ll check in soon. All is well here on Mount Everest!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Nuptse summit attempt ahead!

The view up the Western Cwm towards Camp 2, the Lhotse Face and the summit of Everest. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

With our “first wave” of climbers recuperating and enjoying the comforts of Namche Bazaar, our “second wave” of climbers is currently up at Camp 2 with plans to descend to Everest Base Camp tomorrow. They’ve had a very successful second rotation as they prepare for their summit push! A few members of our team will continue higher into the Himalaya as they make their summit attempt on Nuptse! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Namche Bazaar:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is May 7th.

Today our “second wave” of Everest and Lhotse climbers were in Camp 2! They climbed part way up the Lhotse face toward Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), and then returned back down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) at the head of the Western Cwm. Tomorrow, they plan to descend back to base camp (5364m/17,598ft), and that will wrap up their acclimatization rotation. They’ve spent two nights at Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and three nights at Camp 2 as of tomorrow.

Meanwhile, our “first wave” of Everest–Lhotse climbers are down here in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We flew down here yesterday morning from base camp. It was a beautiful helicopter flight, and since then, we’ve been enjoying hot showers, eating good food and sucking up all the extra oxygen down here, which feels great! So, we’re just resting and biding our time, recuperating for our summit push which is still a little ways off. Right now we’re waiting for high winds to ease on the upper mountain so that our Sherpa team can carry oxygen and other supplies up as high as the South Col (7900m/25,919ft), and then we’ll start looking for a summit window.

Our Nuptse climbers moved up to high camp at the foot of the route this afternoon. They’re currently resting in high camp and preparing for a summit attempt that will start late tonight. Most of the route is fixed, and if the weather permits, then our climbers and our rope-fixing team will complete the route to the summit tomorrow morning.

So, lots of things going on here in Nepal, but all is well and we will be in touch tomorrow!

Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbing out of Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbing out of Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Erwin Visser crossing a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Erwin Visser crossing a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our "first wave" of climbers descending through the icefall back to EBC. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our “first wave” of climbers descending through the icefall back to EBC. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Wrapping up the second rotation!

The "first wave" team testing out their down suits in Camp 2 at 21,300'. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

After several days and nights spent above the Khumbu Icefall in the Western Cwm, the Madison Mountaineering team’s second acclimatization rotation is coming to a close! With a few days of rest and relaxation ahead, the team can start to look forward to their summit push. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is May 5th.

This morning our first wave of Everest and Lhotse climbers wrapped up their second acclimatization foray on the mountain. They spent three nights at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), climbed up toward the Lhotse face one day, and then this morning we returned back down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). It was absolutely beautiful weather for that descent and we had great conditions as we descended through the Khumbu Icefall, which is in really excellent shape this year!

Meanwhile, the second wave of our Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers are at Camp 2. They moved from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) to Camp 2 today, they’ll spend several nights there acclimatizing, and then descend back to base camp. If weather and route conditions allow, then some of those climbers will head up to Nuptse as well!

So, all is well here in base camp! Tomorrow, our first wave of climbers will start their drop back in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We’ll fly down the valley via helicopter to rest and relax, and prepare for our summit push. We’ll be in touch!

Morning light on Pumori as the "first wave" moved to Camp 2. (Photo: terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Pumori as the “first wave” moved to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, in the Khumbu Icefall on the way to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, in the Khumbu Icefall on the way to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Peter Horsman, and the "first wave" team descending out of the Western Cwm toward base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Peter Horsman, and the “first wave” team descending out of the Western Cwm toward base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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On to the second rotation!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The second rotation for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse expeditions is underway in the Himalayas! The first of our teams to ascend through the icefall have successfully reached Camp 2, and our second team will make their first voyage into the icefall in a few hours time. In an effort to further acclimatize before their summit push, the teams plan to work further up the mountain before returning to base camp in a few days. With good weather, our Nuptse climbers will make an attempt on the dramatic looking peak that towers above Everest Base Camp below. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team. Today is Tuesday, May 2nd.

Early this morning our first wave of climbers left base camp (5364m/17,598ft) to climb up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) along with guides Terray Sylvester, Scott Webster and Aang Phurba Sherpa. Our second wave of climbers is leaving tonight along with myself and Cacho to climb up from base camp to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). (We’ll) spend a couple of nights at Camp 1 and then proceed on to Camp 2.

All of our climbers and teams will be up high the next few days acclimatizing, getting familiar with the route, and hopefully getting some great views up high of Everest! We’ll also try to go for Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) with our Nuptse climbers if conditions are good. It looks like high winds in the forecast, it’s been snowing the last few days, but hopefully the weather will be improving!

So, all is well here on Mount Everest and we’re excited to get climbing underway!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Rest at 17,500 feet!

Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

With the collective team all together in Everest Base Camp (EBC), the team spent the majority of today resting up, with an acclimatization hike to get their bodies moving! With the second rotation coming, the team will continue to rest and will spend some more time practicing technical skills in the neighboring Khumbu Glacier to keep their mind and skills sharp before heading further up the mountain. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from EBC:

Hello! It’s Friday, April 28th. This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition!

Today we had a nice, restful day in base camp (5364m/17,598ft)! All of our climbers are here; our team that did the first rotation up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) was taking it easy here in base camp, and our team that climbed Lobuche peak (6119m/20,075ft) recently, and just arrived in base camp yesterday was taking it easy. Although, we did go for an acclimatization hike today just up above base camp. (We) had some great views, nice opportunity to stretch the legs, get some oxygen in the body. We’re just enjoying base camp!

We’re going to start doing a little more technical review over the next few days and start gearing up for our next rotation up to Camps 1 and 2, and touching Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft)!

It’s great weather at the moment, although there is a little snow in the forecast the next few days. But, the team’s doing well and we’re happy to be here! We’re looking forward to more good days ahead here on Mount Everest.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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First Rotation: Complete!

Our Lobuche East climbers just after summiting this morning! Photo: Tenzi Sherpa

Today was a big day in the Himalayas for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse expedition teams! Over the course of the last few days, our teams have been busy on their first rotations in the Himalayas. Our first wave of climbers successfully completed their first rotation up to Camp 2, and are safely back in Everest Base Camp after descending through the icefall. Further down the Khumbu Valley, our second wave of climbers enjoyed good weather and climbing conditions on Lobuche East, and successfully reached the summit this morning before descending back to the village of Lobuche for the night! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition. Today is Wednesday, April 26.

We’ve got great news to report! Today, our first wave of climbers just returned down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) from our first rotation up at Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and 2 (6500m/21,325ft). We had a great rotation, four nights up high, and spent time hiking around Camp 2 at 21,300 feet, and made it down safely through the Khumbu Icefall today!

Our second wave of climbers, with guide Cacho Beiza, climbed Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) today and reached the summit ridge – beautiful views all around! They are now headed back to base camp tomorrow. So, our team will be all together!

Also, our Everest Express climber, Danah Ali arrived in Nepal and flew to the Khumbu Valley, and was met in Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft) village by guide, Terray Sylvester. She will be integrating with our team in the next few days!

So, we’ve been enjoying good conditions here on Everest. Our Sherpa team has been doing a fantastic job carrying loads up the mountain and helping us climb safely. We look forward to some good weather in the coming days and weeks ahead! Check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Progress in Nepal!

Our team acclimatizing above Camp 1 during an active rest day on April 23! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

With the bulk of our collective team all in the Khumbu region, the teams are well on their way towards the objectives forthcoming! Our first wave of climbers have had great climbing conditions so far, as they navigated their way through the complex terrain of the Khumbu Icefall and are now spending time acclimatizing in the Western Cwm. After a few days of technical training in Everest Base Camp, our second wave of climbers is on their way to start their first rotation on Lobuche! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this update from Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 24th.

Today our first wave of climbers here in Nepal moved from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). They plan to spend two nights at Camp 2, and then return to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). That will complete their first acclimatization rotation! The’ve had great conditions so far. They had particularly good climbing conditions two days ago when the moved to Camp 1 up through the Khumbu Icefall. They were essentially the only team in the icefall that night, which made for really pleasant, smooth climbing without any lines!

Meanwhile, our second wave of climbers just left base camp. They hiked down to the village of Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) today, and tomorrow they’ll move up to the Lobuche high camp, and then hopefully summit Lobuche peak (6119m/20,075ft) the following day. They spent the last two days practicing their technical skills here on the ice towers next to base camp.

So, all is well here in Nepal and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

The "second wave" about to depart for Lobuche! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The “second wave” about to depart for Lobuche! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Lhotse climber, Karl Yoder, near the top of the Khumbu Icefall! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Lhotse climber, Karl Yoder, near the top of the Khumbu Icefall! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our team in the Western Cwm! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our team in the Western Cwm! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our "second wave" of climbers training near base camp!

Our “second wave” of climbers training near base camp!

Technical training near base camp!

Technical training near base camp!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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