Tag Archive for: Camp 1

Josh Garrison departing for EBC (📸: @terray_s)

The “dropback” rest period is complete and the team has returned to base camp.  Here’s Everest guide Terray Sylvester with a recap and the plan for what’s next:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s May 11th.

Today our climbers flew back from Namche Bazaar where they were resting for a few days pre-summit attempt. Great weather for the flights, really beautiful scenery. We settled back into base camp and had a nice dinner of pork chops, roast pumpkin, mashed potatoes, green beans, carrots, and fruit salad for dessert.

Now, we are settling in to watch “Gladiator“! Our summit plans have taken shape and in all likelihood we will leave base camp within the next couple of days, aiming for a summit in just a little over a week.

So, all is well here in base camp. It’s a beautiful warm and misty night.

We will be in touch!

Sara Safari leaving Namche for EBC (📸: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/terray_s/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">@terray_s</a>)

Sara Safari leaving Namche for EBC (📸: @terray_s)

Cockpit view (📸: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/terray_s/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">@terray_s</a>)

Cockpit view (📸: @terray_s)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Cameron Kenny ascending through the Khumbu Icefall

The second rotation is complete and the team has returned to base camp.  Here’s Everest guide Terray Sylvester with a recap and the plan for what’s next:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s May 5th.

We just returned from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) back to base camp (5310m/17,421ft).  We spent three nights on the upper mountain for our second acclimatization rotation.  We went directly from base camp up to Camp 2, then took a rest day, and then we went up and touched Camp 3 at just about 7000m on the Lhotse Face.  We then spend another night at Camp 2 and came back down here to base camp today.  We had fantastic climbing conditions and weather throughout.  We managed to avoid most other parties on the route.  On the day we went up the Lhotse Face we had absolutely perfect conditions with spectacular views.  It felt really good to get up a little bit higher and finish laying the groundwork of our acclimatization for our summit push.

Now we’re back in base camp and we’ll just be resting for that summit attempt.  We’re going to do a “drop back” where we head down to lower elevation in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) to let our bodies recover from being up at altitude for nearly a month and maximize our strength for the summit push.

We just finished dinner of pork chops and macaroni and cheese and vegetables and cake.  Now we are watching “The Bourne Legacy” and we’ll go to bed after that.

All is well and we’ll be in touch!

The team getting comfortable with their down suits before the climb to Camp 3 the following day

The team getting comfortable with their down suits before the climb to Camp 3 the following day

Climbing the Lhotse Face

Climbing the Lhotse Face

Part of the team in Camp 3

Part of the team in Camp 3

Climber Todd Ammerman with Guide Cacho Beiza in Camp 3

Climber Todd Ammerman with Guide Cacho Beiza in Camp 3


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Camp 2

The second rotation has kicked off with an excellent night of climbing up the Khumbu Icefall and a warming morning in the Western Cwm.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is May 2nd.

Today we woke up and had breakfast at 01:00am in base camp (5310m/17,421ft), left base camp at 02:00am, and climbed up the Khumbu Icefall.  We had a beautiful night and early morning of climbing.  There’s some fresh snow in the icefall which made it very nice.  Once the sun came up we have some good views.  Not many people in the icefall today, just a couple of other teams – some friends we recongized.

We got up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) around 08:00am and then we continued on up to Camp 2.  Got up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) midday, had lunch, and just took an afternoon nap.

We just finished our dinner.  Everyone’s up here doing great!  We’re tired, it was a big, hard day – long day, hot at the end coming into Camp 2 but everyone did really well.  We’re recovering well and looking forward to a nice rest day tomorrow.  It’s snowing right now outside our tents.  We’re tucked in and looking foward to a good night’s rest.

We’ll check in soon, thanks!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Dwight Crow and Garrett above acclimatizing above Camp 2

The first rotation is complete with our Everest team returning to base camp this afternoon!  Everest guide Terray Sylvester has this recap of the first rotation and the plan for the next few days:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s April 24nd.

We just returned to base camp this afternoon from our first acclimatization rotation higher on the mountain.  We spent two nights in Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and two nights in Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) before coming back down to base (5310m/17,421ft).  We had beautiful weather throughout.  We were among one of the only teams in Camp 1 and Camp 2, so it was really nice having the mountain a little bit to ourselves.

We’re just settling back-in in base camp, had dinner of pork chops and pumpkin pie.  We’re gonna watch the latest James Bond film (“No Time to Die“).

Then we’ve got a few days of rest, showers, and relaxation in our future!  We’ll be in touch!

Climber Carter Beck crossing a ladder in the icefall

Climber Carter Beck crossing a ladder in the icefall

Climbing out of the Khumbu Icefall into the Western Cwm

Climbing out of the Khumbu Icefall into the Western Cwm

The team above Camp 2 on our active rest day

The team above Camp 2 on our active rest day

Descending through the Khumbu Icefall back to base camp

Descending through the Khumbu Icefall back to base camp


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Everest Camp 2

Today, our Everest team moved up from Camp 1 to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm.  Expedition leader Garrett Madison called in via sat phone with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition 2022.  Today is April 22nd.

Today our team climbed from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) on Mount Everest, our advanced base camp (ABC).  We got here in the afternoon, settled in, had lunch, just finished up dinner, and heading to bed now.  The weather’s been great.  Everyone’s doing really well and we’re looking forward to a good day tomorrow when we will do another acclimatization hike up above Camp 2 here.

We’re happy to be here!  There are not many other teams here – I think we’re the only team that’s up at Camp 2 at the moment.  Some of the other teams will be on the way soon.  But, it’s nice to be up here at 21,300ft (6492m) on Mount Everest!

We’ll check in soon.  Thanks!

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

The Western Cwm

In the midst of the first rotation, our Everest team continued their acclimatization by hiking around Camp 1 in the Western Cwm.  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with a recap of the day:

Hello, this is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition.  It’s April 21st.

Today we woke up in Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), had a nice breakfast and coffee, and then went for an acclimatization walk about an hour, hour and a half, above camp just partway to Camp 2.  We had wonderful views of Everest, Lhotse, and the Nuptse ridge above us.  We came back down to Camp 1 and had lunch.  It’s really peaceful up here.  We’re just about the only party in Camp 1, which is really pleasant.

We had a nice dinner, watched the alpenglow fade on Everest, and now we are just getting to bed.

Looking forward to moving to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) tomorrow!  All is well here.  We’ll be in touch.

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Camp 2 on Ama Dablam

Our Ama Dablam team has set the plan to head for the summit tonight!  Here expedition leader Garrett Madison with the team dispatch from 6000m at Camp 2:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in from Camp 2 on Ama Dablam.  I’m in the tent here with Jon and J.B.  Tonight is our summit night.  Next door is Morgan and Shine and our Sherpa team is not far away.  It’s November 7th at 5:30 P.M.

Our plan is to have some dinner, go to sleep, and wake up around midnight to set off for the summit.  Hopefully we’ll have good weather and route conditions and get lucky.

We’re looking forward to a beautifull day up there.  So, we’ll check in when we get back from our summit day tomorrow.  All’s well here at Camp 2 on Ama Dablam!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Camp 1 and Ama Dablam

The summit push is on and the team headed up from base camp to Camp 1 (5792m/19,000ft) today.  Garrett Madison provides today’s expedition dispatch via a somewhat garbled and truncated sat phone call:

Hello, this is Garrett Madison calling in for the Ama Dablam expedition team.  Today is November 6th and today we left base camp to begin our summit push.  Our summit rotation day one means we climbed from base camp up to Camp 1 today, gained about 4,000 vertical feet, and the team did great today.  Everyone – J.B., Morgan, Shine, and Jon – all did really well.  Myself and Aang Phurba[garbled] …team… [garbled] …Sherpas… [transmission dropped]


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Ama Dablam team at the puja ceremony today

Our Ama Dablam team is back in base camp after completing their 1st acclimatization rotation.  Garrett Madison, expedition leader, calls in today’s update:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team.  Today’s October 31st, Halloween and we are back in base camp!

We had a couple of good nights, up on mountain in Camp 1 and we climbed up to Camp 2 yesterday – touched Camp 2.  We had some great views up there, fun technical climbing, and good acclimatization – sleeping up at 19,000 ft. at Camp 1.

Today we camp back down to base camp, had a nice lunch, and then did our Puja ceremony with a Buddist Lama monk from Pangboche.

Everyone’s doing well here.  We’re just resting and recovering from our time high up on the mountain and looking forward to a few rest days here in base camp.

So, all’s well here at Ama Dablam base camp.  We’ll check in soon.

Camp 1 and Ama Dablam

Camp 1 and Ama Dablam

Climbing the Yellow Tower on Ama Dablam below Camp 2

Climbing the Yellow Tower on Ama Dablam below Camp 2


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Garrett Madison climbing around Ama Dablam Camp 1 and Camp 2

The 1st acclimatization rotation on Ama Dablam continues with the team touching Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) and returning to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) for the night.  Team member J.B. Waterman provides today’s expedition dispatch:

This is J.B. Waterman on Madison Mountaineering’s Ama Dablam team.

Today was an epic training day – from Camp 1 at 19,000ft to Camp 2 at 20,000ft, across a serrated knife edge ridge, going up vertical walls of granite, to make it to Camp 2, and then turn around and go back.

We’re sleeping at Camp 1 tonight and then we’re gonna head back to base camp for a few days of rest and relaxation and recuperatation, so that we can go to the summit!

It was a great day.  Now it’s time to recuperate!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map: