Tag Archive for: Camp 1

Climber Krisli Melesk above Camp 1.

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team has settled into Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft). The team plans to take advantage of the good weather by continuing to acclimatize before heading back to base camp (4968m/16,300ft) to conclude the first rotation. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from K2:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition – it’s Monday, July 4th.

Today our team had a great climb from Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) here on K2. We’re at about 6,600 meters – the weather is fantastic, very clear! We had great views of the Baltoro Glacier system, Masherbrum, Broad Peak, and all the other famous mountains around us. Tomorrow our plan is to take an active rest day – we’ll hike up to the base of the Black Pyramid and then descend back to camp and relax in our tents. The following day we’ll descend down to base camp (4968m/16,300ft).

So, all is well and we will be in touch!

One of our tents in Camp 2.

One of our tents in Camp 2.

Guide, Cacho Beiza approaching Camp 1.

Guide, Cacho Beiza approaching Camp 1.

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa approaching Camp 2 with climber Nelly Attar.

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa approaching Camp 2 with climber Nelly Attar.

Climber Nelly Attar in Camp 2.

Climber Nelly Attar in Camp 2.

First light on the north pyramid of Broad Peak - seen from Camp 1.

First light on the north pyramid of Broad Peak – seen from Camp 1.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Garrett and Nelly reviewing climbing techniques nearby K2 base camp

Both the climbers and sherpas are making great progress through their first rotation on K2! The climbers will head up to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) tomorrow, while the sherpas have fixed ropes all the way up to Camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft). Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s expedition dispatch from K2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team.

Today is July 3rd and all is well here on K2! Yesterday, our sherpa team made great progress and was able fix nearly all the way up to Camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) – up the Black Pyramid and beyond. The route’s in good condition up to that point. Our climbers went up to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) yesterday and are acclimatizing now, their second night, planning to head up to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) tomorrow.

Yesterday I came down from our first rotation with two members of our climbing team who have decided to head home. They flew out today by helicopter to Skardu (2220m/7,283ft) and will make their way to Islamabad tomorrow.

But everyone’s doing well here on K2, we’ve had great weather and are really happy about the rope fixing progress that our sherpa team made – looking forward to more climbing here in the future.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

View of K2 and the Cesen route from hike to ABC

The K2 expedition team has arrived at advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft) and is preparing to move higher up the mountain to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) and Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) in the coming days as part of their first rotation. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with this brief update:

Just arrived in advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft), everyone is doing well. We are planning to climb from advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft) to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) tomorrow.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Prayer flags hanging in base camp far below the summit of K2 (📸: @terray_s)

The team is ready to start the first rotation and begin making their way higher up on K2! This week, they plan to spend nights at advanced base camp, Camp 1, and Camp 2.  Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s expedition dispatch from base camp on K2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team – today is June 30th.

We had a good day here in base camp (4968m/16,300ft) getting organized sorting gear for our first rotation. We’re planning to head up tomorrow to advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft) and the following day up to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) for a couple of nights and then up to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) for a few nights.

Everything’s looking good here – the mountain’s in great shape, the weather’s good, the team’s doing really well. We did some training and everybody’s feeling solid, so we’re looking forward to getting up higher on the mountain, having some good views, and then back here in base camp about a week from today.

All is well here on K2, check in soon.

Our climbing team posing for a photo during an acclimatization hike on June 29, with the spectacular icefalls of K2 behind them. (📸: @terray_s)

Our climbing team posing for a photo during an acclimatization hike on June 29, with the spectacular icefalls of K2 behind them. (📸: @terray_s)

Expedition Leader Garrett Madison working with climber Piers B. during a skills refresher session on June 28. The ice pinnacles on the Godwin Austen Glacier next to base camp are a great venue for reviewing fixed line climbing techniques. (📸: @terray_s)

Expedition Leader Garrett Madison working with climber Piers B. during a skills refresher session on June 28. The ice pinnacles on the Godwin Austen Glacier next to base camp are a great venue for reviewing fixed line climbing techniques. (📸: @terray_s)

Our climbers on an acclimatization hike above the Godwin Austen Glacier near K2 base camp on June 29. (📸: @terray_s)

Our climbers on an acclimatization hike above the Godwin Austen Glacier near K2 base camp on June 29. (📸: @terray_s)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team at base camp!

The team has said “goodbye” to the trekkers and looks forward to the days ahead leading up to their first rotation.

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the K2 expedition team.

We are at K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft) – it’s another beautiful day here and today we saw the last of our trekkers off. They were headed down valley with Fred Alldredge to trek down the Baltoro Glacier back to Jhola Camp (3151m/10,338ft), and then by Jeep to Skardu (2220m/7283ft). It’ll be a few days before they reach Skardu. Our other trekkers helicoptered out yesterday and made it all the way back to Islamabad just in a few hours time – amazing logistics that worked out!

The rest of us are here settling into base camp. We’re happy to be here, we’re going to do some training today and an acclimatization hike tomorrow. Everyone’s doing well and the weather’s just perfect at the moment – sunny and not a cloud in the sky! Our Sherpa team just reached Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) – first team of the season to make it up to Camp 2. They set up 5 tents for us and we’re looking forward to doing a first rotation here in a few days time.

All is well here at K2 base camp! We’ll check in soon.

Enjoying the evening light at camp

Enjoying the evening light at camp

Piers cutting the ham for an afternoon snack

Piers cutting the ham for an afternoon snack

Training on the ice today near base camp with K2 behind

Training on the ice today near base camp with K2 behind

Nelly enjoying the nice weather here in the Madison Mountaineering base camp

Nelly enjoying the nice weather here in the Madison Mountaineering base camp


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Basecamp is coming along!

The team has reached K2 base camp and will spend the next few days dialing things in, encouraged by more good weather ahead!

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the K2 climbing team.

We reached K2 base camp today and it was a beautiful day. We had views of K2, Broad Peak, and other surrounding mountains. We got to base camp and we’ve been setting up our camp ever since. We’ve got things mostly set up for the time being, but it will take us a couple of days to get everything totally dialed in the way we want it. Everyone’s doing well. We had a mini Puja with some our Sherpa’s – they’re going to head up to Camp 1 tomorrow and we’re going to take a rest day here. Some of our trekkers are going to try and helicopter out tomorrow morning and the rest of the trekkers will take a rest day here, and then head down the following day to start their trek back to Skardu.

So, everyone’s doing well, excited to be up here, and looking forward to more good weather ahead.

Basecamp tent illuminated at dusk

Base camp tent illuminated at dusk

Garrett and porter/Sherpa team happy to be in basecamp!

Everyone’s happy to be in base camp!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Saskia Jacobson practicing the use of the oxygen mask (📸: @terray_s)

Summit push preparations are in full swing at Everest base camp.  Here’s Everest guide Terray Sylvester with a recap of the day’s activities at base camp and the plan for what’s next:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s May 12th.

Today we did some preparation for our summit push.  We did an instructional oxygen system talk here in base camp and we sorted food for our high camps.  The weather forecast still looks good for our departure, not tomorrow but the following morning early, pre-dawn.

Spirits are high and we’re all looking forward to getting started up the mountain

We will be in touch!

Guide Rob Smith providing instruction on the oxygen system (📸: @terray_s)

Guide Rob Smith providing instruction on the oxygen system (📸: @terray_s)

Climber Todd Ammerman gives the O2 mask two thumbs up! (📸: @terray_s)

Climber Todd Ammerman gives the O2 mask two thumbs up! (📸: @terray_s)

Climber Cameron Kenny trying on his oxygen mask (📸: @terray_s)

Climber Cameron Kenny trying on his oxygen mask (📸: @terray_s)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Josh Garrison departing for EBC (📸: @terray_s)

The “dropback” rest period is complete and the team has returned to base camp.  Here’s Everest guide Terray Sylvester with a recap and the plan for what’s next:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s May 11th.

Today our climbers flew back from Namche Bazaar where they were resting for a few days pre-summit attempt. Great weather for the flights, really beautiful scenery. We settled back into base camp and had a nice dinner of pork chops, roast pumpkin, mashed potatoes, green beans, carrots, and fruit salad for dessert.

Now, we are settling in to watch “Gladiator“! Our summit plans have taken shape and in all likelihood we will leave base camp within the next couple of days, aiming for a summit in just a little over a week.

So, all is well here in base camp. It’s a beautiful warm and misty night.

We will be in touch!

Sara Safari leaving Namche for EBC (📸: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/terray_s/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">@terray_s</a>)

Sara Safari leaving Namche for EBC (📸: @terray_s)

Cockpit view (📸: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/terray_s/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">@terray_s</a>)

Cockpit view (📸: @terray_s)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Cameron Kenny ascending through the Khumbu Icefall

The second rotation is complete and the team has returned to base camp.  Here’s Everest guide Terray Sylvester with a recap and the plan for what’s next:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s May 5th.

We just returned from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) back to base camp (5310m/17,421ft).  We spent three nights on the upper mountain for our second acclimatization rotation.  We went directly from base camp up to Camp 2, then took a rest day, and then we went up and touched Camp 3 at just about 7000m on the Lhotse Face.  We then spend another night at Camp 2 and came back down here to base camp today.  We had fantastic climbing conditions and weather throughout.  We managed to avoid most other parties on the route.  On the day we went up the Lhotse Face we had absolutely perfect conditions with spectacular views.  It felt really good to get up a little bit higher and finish laying the groundwork of our acclimatization for our summit push.

Now we’re back in base camp and we’ll just be resting for that summit attempt.  We’re going to do a “drop back” where we head down to lower elevation in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) to let our bodies recover from being up at altitude for nearly a month and maximize our strength for the summit push.

We just finished dinner of pork chops and macaroni and cheese and vegetables and cake.  Now we are watching “The Bourne Legacy” and we’ll go to bed after that.

All is well and we’ll be in touch!

The team getting comfortable with their down suits before the climb to Camp 3 the following day

The team getting comfortable with their down suits before the climb to Camp 3 the following day

Climbing the Lhotse Face

Climbing the Lhotse Face

Part of the team in Camp 3

Part of the team in Camp 3

Climber Todd Ammerman with Guide Cacho Beiza in Camp 3

Climber Todd Ammerman with Guide Cacho Beiza in Camp 3


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Camp 2

The second rotation has kicked off with an excellent night of climbing up the Khumbu Icefall and a warming morning in the Western Cwm.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is May 2nd.

Today we woke up and had breakfast at 01:00am in base camp (5310m/17,421ft), left base camp at 02:00am, and climbed up the Khumbu Icefall.  We had a beautiful night and early morning of climbing.  There’s some fresh snow in the icefall which made it very nice.  Once the sun came up we have some good views.  Not many people in the icefall today, just a couple of other teams – some friends we recongized.

We got up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) around 08:00am and then we continued on up to Camp 2.  Got up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) midday, had lunch, and just took an afternoon nap.

We just finished our dinner.  Everyone’s up here doing great!  We’re tired, it was a big, hard day – long day, hot at the end coming into Camp 2 but everyone did really well.  We’re recovering well and looking forward to a nice rest day tomorrow.  It’s snowing right now outside our tents.  We’re tucked in and looking foward to a good night’s rest.

We’ll check in soon, thanks!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram: