Tag Archive for: Camp 1

Back from the first rotation!

The team climbing above Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team is back in Base Camp after a successful rotation on the mountain where they climbed to just below Camp II! With excellent weather the entire time, the team moved strongly and swiftly up the mountain, while they gained acclimatization and got some experience on the route. Over the next few days, the team plans to rest, fuel, and get ready for the summit rotation which is expected to begin in just a short time. Our team will keep an eye on the weather and launch out of camp, next time with their sights set on a summit. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2026 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition. Today is November 6th.

Today we descended from Camp I (5791m/19,000ft) to Base Camp (4600m/15,100ft) after a successful rotation. We spent two nights at Camp I, touched the top of the Yellow Tower, which is just 10 minutes below Camp II (5980m/19,619ft), and then descended back to Base Camp today!

So, we achieved what we wanted to achieve. Now we are planning to rest and keep an eye on the weather forecast and start our summit push within a few days.

The team is doing well. The weather has been great! While we were up higher around the mountain, we had clear blue skies and hardly a breath of wind.

So all is going well here in Nepal and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Alpenglow on Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Alpenglow on Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

A team photo in Camp 1 before hiking back to Base Camp (photo by Terray Sylvester)

A team photo in Camp 1 before hiking back to Base Camp (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Descending back to Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Descending back to Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Rhonda, above Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Rhonda, above Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Calvin, approaching the top of the Yellow Tower (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Calvin, approaching the top of the Yellow Tower (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Naomi, ascending the Yellow Tower (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Naomi, ascending the Yellow Tower (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Snowy conditions on the way to Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Snowy conditions on the way to Camp 1 (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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The famous Yellow Tower

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team continued their acclimatization efforts today by following the route up the Yellow Tower towards Camp II before descending back down to sleep in Camp I. After waking up here tomorrow, the plan is to shoulder our packs and descend all the way back to base camp, rest up, recover, and get ready for the summit rotation. It’s been an excellent couple of days on the mountain and the team is looking strong! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch via Garmin InReach from Camp I on Ama Dablam:

Hello from Ama Dablam Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft)! Today we climbed to the top of the famous Yellow Tower, just below Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft), then descended back to Camp 1. The weather was excellent yet again, and the route was in very good condition. Plenty of snow made for solid footing and relatively simple movement on much of the terrain until just below the Yellow Tower. The team is doing well. We plan to descend to Base Camp (4600m/15,100ft) tomorrow for a well-deserved rest before our summit push!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Climb to Camp I

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team climbed from base camp to Camp I today, marking the start of their first rotation on the mountain. The team is excited to be moving after waiting out the storm that came last week, now finally stepping foot on the mountain and moving closer toward their climbing objective. With more good weather in the forecast, the team plans to move up to Camp II tomorrow, further contributing to their acclimatization and familiarity with the route. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch via Garmin InReach from Camp I on Ama Dablam:

Hello from Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) on Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft)! Today we started our acclimatization rotation by moving here from base camp (4600m/15,100ft). The weather was perfect and our team moved at a good pace. With 2+ feet of snow on the ground the route was in uncommon condition — often the route from base camp to Camp 1 is virtually snow-free — but with a good trail beaten in, the snow likely made today a bit less challenging than usual, particularly on the final scree field below camp 1, where it filled in gaps between boulders. We’ve eaten dinner and we’re now going to bed. Tomorrow we plan to tag Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft).

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Digging Out

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives.

The Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team has been hard at work in base camp. From digging out from all the fresh snow, to continuing their acclimatization efforts, the team has been kept busy and motivated for the climbing to come. In just a short time, the team plans to start their first rotation up the mountain where they’ll be able to familiarize themselves with the route and keep up their acclimatization. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Ama Dablam Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2026 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition. Today is November 2nd.

Starting the evening of the 28th, we received more than a meter of snow here in base camp (4600m/15,100ft), which was sent our way by Cyclone Arnab down in the Bay of Bengal. The last few days, however, have been clear and sunny! We spent the first two days after the storm digging out here in base camp and waiting for the mountain to settle.

Today we hiked part way up toward Camp I (5791m/19,000ft) to stretch our legs and gain some more acclimatization. And now we are assessing conditions on the mountain above us and preparing for our rotation. It’s possible we’ll start that tomorrow morning by moving up to Camp I, or maybe we’ll wait a bit longer.

The team’s doing well. It’s very beautiful here in base camp right now. Base camp looks very different than it usually does with a lot of fresh snow on the ground.

We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Back in Everest Base Camp!

Returning back to Everest Base Camp after a successful acclimatization rotation.

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team made it back to their base camp safe and sound, marking the end of their acclimatization efforts on the mountain. With clear skies overhead, the team made their way down from Camp 2, through the Khumbu Icefall and into Everest Base Camp. Next up, the team will rest, recover, and start to prepare for their summit rotation! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in from Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft).

We had a great first rotation up to Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and 2 (6500m/21,325ft), touched Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) yesterday. Great views up there, and made our way down to base camp today.

The team’s all back here. We just had dinner, resting up. Actually, Terray and Reid stayed up at Camp 2 and slept at Camp 3 last night, and made it back down to Camp 2 today. So they’re doing great, and we’ll check in with them tomorrow.

But, all’s well here! The weather’s cleared up, so we got some nice views. Everyone’s happy to be down, and we’ll check in soon!

Headlamps line the Lhotse Face under a clear night sky.

Headlamps line the Lhotse Face under a clear night sky.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Made it to Camp 2

Dinner time in Camp 2

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team climbed from Camp 1 to Camp 2 today, through the Western Cwm. With snow falling most of the day, the team quickly settled into their tents upon their arrival. Warm tea, a nutritious meal, and the comfort of a warm dining tent with the team was welcomed after another good day of climbing on Mount Everest! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) on Everest (8848m/29,032ft), 21,300 feet, almost 6,500 meters.

We had a great day of climbing up from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). Everyone did well. It’s been snowing nonstop the last three days! So, been fun to be up here in a snowstorm. But, hopefully it’ll clear up tomorrow, we’ll get some nice views of Everest, Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft). And then, go for a short hike to acclimatize. And then the following day, we’ll try to touch Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), and then head down the day after that.

So, everyone’s doing great up here! We just had a good dinner. We got to tuck in our sleeping bags here shortly, get warm, and get some good rest before tomorrow.

Alright, all’s well here on Everest! We’ll check in soon.

Camp 2

Camp 2

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Resting in Camp 1

Camp life on Mount Everest

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team took an active-rest day today in Camp 1 on Mount Everest. A leisurely start to the day with breakfast led into a short acclimatization hike in the direction of Camp 2, where we plan to move tomorrow. Despite some snow and limited views today, the team is doing well and looking strong! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 1:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team.

We’re up here in Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). We had a great rest day, it was a snow day! Snowed pretty much all day. We went for acclimatization hike up the route towards Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) along the side of the Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) face, and then came back to camp for lunch.

Everyone’s doing great! We’re acclimatizing well, enjoying our time up here, camp life on the expedition. Looking forward to climbing up to Camp 2 tomorrow! So we’ll check in once we get to Camp 2.

All is well here! And enjoying Nepal, Mount Everest.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Through the Icefall

Camp 1 on Mount Everest

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team has embarked on their next acclimatization rotation, through the Khumbu Icefall and into Camp 1. They’ll spend time here acclimatizing before packing up, once again, and moving higher up the mountain. This time is an essential part of our Everest expedition. The team is in good spirits and excited to be climbing! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 1:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) on Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft), 19,450 feet.

Today, we departed base camp (5364m/17,598ft) at 1:00 AM and climbed up through the Khumbu Icefall. It was pretty snowy and cloudy, but the route was in really good condition. Great conditions all around, seemed really safe, comparably, and good time! We made good time getting up to Camp 1.

So everyone’s doing great up here! We just finished dinner. The clouds have parted, we have some great views of Everest, Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), surrounding peaks, Pumori (7165m/23,507ft). So, beautiful evening up here in Camp 1.

We’re going to take a rest day tomorrow. All is well here in Camp 1 on Mount Everest! We’ll check in soon. Thanks!

Crossing a crevasse in the icefall

Crossing a crevasse in the icefall

Navigating the Khumbu Icefall

Navigating the Khumbu Icefall

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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First steps into the Khumbu Icefall

First foray into the Khumbu Icefall (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Today, the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition took their first steps into the Khumbu Icefall. With clear skies and solid trainings under their belt, the team moved efficiently through the lower section of the route. It was a good taste of the climbing to come in the next few days when they’ll shoulder their packs and climb to Camp 1 (and beyond) as part of another acclimatization rotation. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this update after a fun day in the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition.

Today, we had a training climb up through the Khumbu Icefall, partway to get familiar with the route. It was great! We had perfect weather, and nice views all around. It was really fun climbing up the steep sections, around seracs, crevasses, and back down the fixed ropes to our base camp (5364m/17,598ft)!

So all’s well. We are going to take a rest day tomorrow and plan to head up the following day to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), start our first rotation! Everyone’s doing great and we’ll check in soon.

Climbing up the lower section of the route with Everest looming high above.

Climbing up the lower section of the route with Everest looming high above.

First steps into the icefall.

First steps into the icefall.

Climbers navigating the Khumbu Icefall with blue skies overhead.

Climbers navigating the Khumbu Icefall with blue skies overhead.

Back for dinner!

Back for dinner!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Cho Oyu team ready for the summit push!

Blue skies while climbing towards High Camp on Cho Oyu.

The Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu expedition team is settled into their tents for the evening in high camp, with plans to leave for the summit in just a few hours! Under the cover of darkness, the team will awake for their alpine start, get kitted in their summit gear, hydrate and fuel before shouldering their packs and leaving for the sixth-highest summit on the planet. It was an excellent day climbing from Camp 1 to Camp 2, and we hope for more good conditions on the rest of the route! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this pre-summit push dispatch from High Camp on Cho Oyu:

Hello, this is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu team.

We are up at High Camp – 7,200 meters, about 23,600 feet. We did great today climbing up from Camp 1 to Camp 2, up over the ice cliff. We’re all tucked in here, ready for bed. We’re gonna sleep for a few hours and then wake up and depart to climb up towards the summit around midnight.

So, beautiful evening here, wonderful views, amazing sunset here from High Camp. Fingers crossed we get lucky with some good conditions tomorrow. No one summited the mountain in oh, almost two weeks since before the big snowstorm and the high winds came in.

So, wish us luck, and we’ll check in soon!

Sunset as seen from High Camp this evening.

Sunset as seen from High Camp this evening.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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