Tag Archive for: Camp 1

First Rotation – Completed!

Climber Dwight Crow and Garrett above acclimatizing above Camp 2

The first rotation is complete with our Everest team returning to base camp this afternoon!  Everest guide Terray Sylvester has this recap of the first rotation and the plan for the next few days:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s April 24nd.

We just returned to base camp this afternoon from our first acclimatization rotation higher on the mountain.  We spent two nights in Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and two nights in Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) before coming back down to base (5310m/17,421ft).  We had beautiful weather throughout.  We were among one of the only teams in Camp 1 and Camp 2, so it was really nice having the mountain a little bit to ourselves.

We’re just settling back-in in base camp, had dinner of pork chops and pumpkin pie.  We’re gonna watch the latest James Bond film (“No Time to Die“).

Then we’ve got a few days of rest, showers, and relaxation in our future!  We’ll be in touch!

Climber Carter Beck crossing a ladder in the icefall

Climber Carter Beck crossing a ladder in the icefall

Climbing out of the Khumbu Icefall into the Western Cwm

Climbing out of the Khumbu Icefall into the Western Cwm

The team above Camp 2 on our active rest day

The team above Camp 2 on our active rest day

Descending through the Khumbu Icefall back to base camp

Descending through the Khumbu Icefall back to base camp

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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First Rotation – Camp 2

Everest Camp 2

Today, our Everest team moved up from Camp 1 to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm.  Expedition leader Garrett Madison called in via sat phone with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition 2022.  Today is April 22nd.

Today our team climbed from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) on Mount Everest, our advanced base camp (ABC).  We got here in the afternoon, settled in, had lunch, just finished up dinner, and heading to bed now.  The weather’s been great.  Everyone’s doing really well and we’re looking forward to a good day tomorrow when we will do another acclimatization hike up above Camp 2 here.

We’re happy to be here!  There are not many other teams here – I think we’re the only team that’s up at Camp 2 at the moment.  Some of the other teams will be on the way soon.  But, it’s nice to be up here at 21,300ft (6492m) on Mount Everest!

We’ll check in soon.  Thanks!

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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First Rotation – The Western Cwm

The Western Cwm

In the midst of the first rotation, our Everest team continued their acclimatization by hiking around Camp 1 in the Western Cwm.  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with a recap of the day:

Hello, this is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition.  It’s April 21st.

Today we woke up in Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), had a nice breakfast and coffee, and then went for an acclimatization walk about an hour, hour and a half, above camp just partway to Camp 2.  We had wonderful views of Everest, Lhotse, and the Nuptse ridge above us.  We came back down to Camp 1 and had lunch.  It’s really peaceful up here.  We’re just about the only party in Camp 1, which is really pleasant.

We had a nice dinner, watched the alpenglow fade on Everest, and now we are just getting to bed.

Looking forward to moving to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) tomorrow!  All is well here.  We’ll be in touch.

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Plan to head for the summit tonight!

Camp 2 on Ama Dablam

Our Ama Dablam team has set the plan to head for the summit tonight!  Here expedition leader Garrett Madison with the team dispatch from 6000m at Camp 2:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in from Camp 2 on Ama Dablam.  I’m in the tent here with Jon and J.B.  Tonight is our summit night.  Next door is Morgan and Shine and our Sherpa team is not far away.  It’s November 7th at 5:30 P.M.

Our plan is to have some dinner, go to sleep, and wake up around midnight to set off for the summit.  Hopefully we’ll have good weather and route conditions and get lucky.

We’re looking forward to a beautifull day up there.  So, we’ll check in when we get back from our summit day tomorrow.  All’s well here at Camp 2 on Ama Dablam!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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The Summit Push is On!

Camp 1 and Ama Dablam

The summit push is on and the team headed up from base camp to Camp 1 (5792m/19,000ft) today.  Garrett Madison provides today’s expedition dispatch via a somewhat garbled and truncated sat phone call:

Hello, this is Garrett Madison calling in for the Ama Dablam expedition team.  Today is November 6th and today we left base camp to begin our summit push.  Our summit rotation day one means we climbed from base camp up to Camp 1 today, gained about 4,000 vertical feet, and the team did great today.  Everyone – J.B., Morgan, Shine, and Jon – all did really well.  Myself and Aang Phurba… [garbled] …team… [garbled] …Sherpas… [transmission dropped]

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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Team Back in Base Camp After 1st Rotation

Ama Dablam team at the puja ceremony today

Our Ama Dablam team is back in base camp after completing their 1st acclimatization rotation.  Garrett Madison, expedition leader, calls in today’s update:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team.  Today’s October 31st, Halloween and we are back in base camp!

We had a couple of good nights, up on mountain in Camp 1 and we climbed up to Camp 2 yesterday – touched Camp 2.  We had some great views up there, fun technical climbing, and good acclimatization – sleeping up at 19,000 ft. at Camp 1.

Today we camp back down to base camp, had a nice lunch, and then did our Puja ceremony with a Buddist Lama monk from Pangboche.

Everyone’s doing well here.  We’re just resting and recovering from our time high up on the mountain and looking forward to a few rest days here in base camp.

So, all’s well here at Ama Dablam base camp.  We’ll check in soon.

Camp 1 and Ama Dablam

Camp 1 and Ama Dablam

Climbing the Yellow Tower on Ama Dablam below Camp 2

Climbing the Yellow Tower on Ama Dablam below Camp 2

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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1st Acclimatization Rotation Continues

Garrett Madison climbing around Ama Dablam Camp 1 and Camp 2

The 1st acclimatization rotation on Ama Dablam continues with the team touching Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) and returning to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) for the night.  Team member J.B. Waterman provides today’s expedition dispatch:

This is J.B. Waterman on Madison Mountaineering’s Ama Dablam team.

Today was an epic training day – from Camp 1 at 19,000ft to Camp 2 at 20,000ft, across a serrated knife edge ridge, going up vertical walls of granite, to make it to Camp 2, and then turn around and go back.

We’re sleeping at Camp 1 tonight and then we’re gonna head back to base camp for a few days of rest and relaxation and recuperatation, so that we can go to the summit!

It was a great day.  Now it’s time to recuperate!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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Ama Dablam Camp 1 on 1st Rotation

A view of Ama Dablam Camp 1 from BC

Today our Ama Dablam kicked off their 1st acclimatization rotation by hiking and climbing up from base camp to Camp 1.  Team member J.B. Waterman provides today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello, this is Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam 2021 team member J.B. Waterman.  It’s Friday, October 29th and me and the rest of the team are ensconced in Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) on Ama Dablam.

We hiked 4,000 vertical feet today with our packs and our gear hiking with jumaring up the rope to get to this spectacular place on the ridge.  We watched the sunset and are settling in.  We’re up at 19,000ft, getting ready to eat some dinner, and then grab some sleep.

Tomorrow we’ll head up to Camp 2, touch it, and come back to acclimatize.  It’s been pretty spectacular!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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K2 Camp 2 on Summit Push

Chase staying cool at K2 Camp 2 earlier today

On their summit push, our K2 team climbed up from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft.) today under beautiful weather and route conditions.  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, provides today’s expedition dispatch from 6,700 meters:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 and Broad Peak expedition team.  Today is July 25th and we are up at Camp 2.

Our whole team’s up here: all nine climbers and most of our sherpa team, except for five of our Nepal sherpas who are up at Camp 4 (7681m/25,200ft.) tonight.  They climbed up from Camp 2 to Camp 4 today and tomorrow and the next day they are going to work on fixing lines above Camp 4 in anticipation of our arrival.

So, we had a beautiful day today, sunny skies, warm temps, almost too warm for us.  But we got into Camp 2 around noon and have just been relaxing, enjoying the amazing views up here, and getting ready for some dinner and a good night’s rest.  And then tomorrow, we’ll be off early on our way up to Camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft.).

All’s well here, the team’s doing excellent, and we’re excited that more good weather is on the way and we’re headed up the route!  We’ll check-in soon, thanks!

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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(Almost) Live from the Karakorum!

Garrett video interview by Alan Arnette from Broad Peak base camp

Great video interview of Garrett Madison by the nexus of all high-altitude climbing news, Alan Arnette.

Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering is one of the few people on the planet to have summited K2 twice. He’s hoping to get his third this 2021 summer. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan.

With the new 4G Cell tower in Concordia, Garret took the hour walk from K2 Base Camp to Broad Peak Base Camp to talk with me over Zoom about his expedition. We discussed their rotations to Camp 1 and 2, the snow conditions on the mountain, what happens when he finds bodies on the mountain, and more. I think you’ll enjoy getting this first-hand information directly from Northern Pakistan.

Watch the video interview here:  https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/07/14/k2-2021-summer-coverage-video-interview-with-garrett-madison-from-the-karakorum/

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