Tag Archive for: Unclimbed Peak

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Nearing K2 Base Camp!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Karakoram expedition teams are nearing their base camp at the foot of K2! The trek has been excellent so far with great views of awe-inspiring peaks and time well spent together as a team. It won’t be long until we’re settling into our base camp tents, beginning skills review, and organizing equipment for the climbing to come! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Karakoram:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the K2 (8611m/28,251ft) expedition team along with our Unclimbed Peak team and Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) climber. We are trekking to base camp (4968m/16,300ft)!

We’ve had a great trek so far. We’re at Goro 2 Camp (4285m/14,058ft), just before Concordia (4570m/14,993ft). We’ve had great weather, amazing views of all the surrounding peaks, and looking forward to arriving in K2 Base Camp in a day or two.

All is well here! We’re having a great time and will check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Trekking to Johla Camp

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

After an adventurous Jeep ride from Skardu to Askole, the team is excited to hit the trail and begin the trek through the Karakoram on the way toward base camp. Clear skies will make for excellent views as they trek up the valley with peaks in every direction. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Askole:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 (8611m/28,251ft) expedition along with the Unclimbed Peak and Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) expeditions.

We made it to Askole (3040m/9,974ft) yesterday from Skardu (2220m/7283ft). We had an adventurous Jeep ride and a restful night in Askole – nice and cool up here in the high country! Today we are starting the trek to base camp. It’s beautiful weather here, the group’s doing well, and we’re excited to get underway! First day heading up the trail and looking forward to reaching Jhola camp (3151m/10,338ft) this afternoon.

All is well and we’ll check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Expeditions in Pakistan are off!

The 2024 Madison Mountaineering team in Skardu!

Here we go! The 2024 Karakoram season is underway in Pakistan. Our K2, Unclimbed Peak, and Broad Peak teams have since arrived in Islamabad where they kicked off their expeditions, and shortly after continued their journey to Skardu. The team did some sightseeing today and made final preparations before they start the trek through the Karakoram to K2 Base Camp. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Skardu:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 (8611m/28,251ft) expedition along with the Unclimbed Peak and Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft).

We made it to Skardu (2220m/7283ft) yesterday! We had a flight from Islamabad (540m/1,770ft) and got to Skardu yesterday morning, spent the day organizing our equipment, and had a nice team dinner here in Skardu. Today we’re doing some sightseeing, checking out the local market, picking up a few last-minute items, and finishing up sorting our equipment before we head out tomorrow by Jeep to Askole (3040m/9,974ft).

Everyone’s doing well here! It’s hot, the weather is good, we’re excited, happy to be here, and looking forward to the journey ahead!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Unclimbed Peak Expedition Wrap Up!

Summit photo after a historic first ascent!

The Madison Mountaineering unclimbed peak expedition has come to its conclusion with our team departing back to their homes, excitedly knowing that their attempt at this historic first ascent proved to be successful! Congratulations to the entire team, and a big thanks to our amazing sherpa team – this effort would not be possible without them. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this recap of making the first ascent of this previously unclimbed peak:

Our Unclimbed peak expedition was a huge success! Going into one of these unknown areas to climb a peak never before attempted by anyone always raises the level of uncertainty we face. It takes a ‘can do’ attitude and the necessary experience to arrive, work through the process in figuring out the route, etc.

There is always some luck involved, we were very fortunate to have decent weather, and a crack Sherpa team that was integral to our success.

Having climbed Ama Dablam just before allowed us to acclimatize and ready ourselves for this project. We had a certain amount of ‘mountain fitness’ which was key.

Utilizing a helicopter allowed us to go directly from Ama Dablam base camp to the base of the peak. From there we established one high camp, although we had to wait a couple of days while it snowed heavily.

Once the skies cleared, we got underway and made good progress, then started our summit day early on the 14th of November leaving base camp at 2:30 AM. About 12 hours later we stood on the summit. It was a glorious day and the achievement was a sweet one, especially given the camaraderie and spirit of teamwork that made it all possible thanks to our amazing Sherpa team.

We look forward to another ‘Unclimbed Peak’ expedition next year!

In exploration,

Garrett Madison

Our 'first ascent' line up the peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Our ‘first ascent’ line up the peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

The peak rising out of the clouds. Photo: Ted Hesser

The peak rising out of the clouds. Photo: Ted Hesser

The team at the summit of the previously unclimbed peak! Photo: Ted Hesser

The team at the summit of the previously unclimbed peak! Photo: Ted Hesser

Celebrating back in Kathmandu!

Celebrating back in Kathmandu!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Success on the Unclimbed Peak!

The Madison Mountaineering expedition team is back in base camp and returning to Lukla today after a safe and successful expedition on the Unclimbed Peak! More details to come of their historic ascent… Here’s a brief message from expedition leader, Garrett Madison:

Just back in base camp from a successful climb of the unclimbed / unnamed peak. Flying out tomorrow morning to Lukla – Kathmandu.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ama Dablam Expedition Conclusion

Departing base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our 2022 Ama Dablam expedition has come to its conclusion! 17 total members of the Madison Mountaineering team reached the summit of Ama Dablam, and are making their journeys home. Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, and a few of our climbers and sherpa team will continue their journey towards an unclimbed peak in the Himalaya, heading into the unknown for a chance at a first ascent! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with one final dispatch from the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – it’s  Friday, November 11th.

Our expedition has wrapped up! Our clients have departed from Ama Dablam base camp (4600m/15,100ft) – some of them decided to helicopter directly from base camp to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft). So, they arrived here in the capitol of Nepal a couple of days ago. Two of our clients decided to enjoy a pleasant hike down the Khumbu Valley. Those guests flew from Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) via fixed wing to Kathmandu yesterday.

So, we had one last celebratory dinner here in Kathmandu last night and people are starting to take their flights home.

All in all, we had a very successful expedition! 17 total members of our team reached the summit of Ama Dablam – that was eight of our climbers, plus two guides and seven members of our sherpa team. We had absolutely excellent weather and route conditions for that climb!

So from here, Garrett and two of our climbers from Ama Dablam as well as members of our sherpa team are turning their attention to an unclimbed peak (~6000m/20,000ft) here in the Nepal, Himalaya. If you’d like to stay up to date on how that climb is progressing, please just keep an eye on the dispatches here on the website! We’ll be in touch.

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Madison Mountaineering 2022 Ama Dablam Summiteers List

The 2022 Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of Ama Dablam! Photo: Terray Sylvester

The sun has set on a beautiful 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition! Our team experienced lots of successes and summits over the course of the last few weeks in the Himalaya. Most importantly, everyone is off the mountain safely and in Kathmandu, or the comforts of their own home.

A few climbers are now heading off to make an attempt on an unclimbed ~6000m/20,000ft peak nearby for a chance to etch their names into the mountaineering history books!

We are pleased to announce the following Madison Mountaineering team members successfully obtained the summit of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) on November 5th, 2022 at approximately 9:00 AM NPT (local time):

# Name
1 Garrett Madison
2 Terray Sylvester
3 Aang Phurba Sherpa
4 Alix Sanche Mayer
5 Stephane Mayer
6 Jocelyn Cayer
7 Rich Draves
8 Serge Larouche
9 Krisli Melesk
10 Chhiring Bhote
11 Dawa Sherpa
12 Chettan Dorje Sherpa
13 Jangbu Sherpa
14 Ming Dorchi Sherpa
15 Shere Thapa Magar
Tenzi Sherpa at Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Tenzi Sherpa at Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison climbing between camps 1 and 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison climbing between camps 1 and 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, in the Gray Couloir above Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, in the Gray Couloir above Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Garrett Madison and Aang Phurba Sherpa on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Garrett Madison and Aang Phurba Sherpa on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, on the Mushroom Ridge below Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, on the Mushroom Ridge below Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Alix, on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Alix, on the summit! Photo: Terray

Our climbers, Alix, Jocelyn and Alex taking off from base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climbers, Alix, Jocelyn and Alex taking off from base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Jocelyn, climbing toward the summit above Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Jocelyn, climbing toward the summit above Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Rotation has Begun!

Members of our team near Camp 2! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Today, the team started their summit rotation on Ama Dablam! The team is healthy and in good spirits with hopes to make the summit in the coming days. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with todays dispatch from Ama Dablam:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) team – today is November 3rd.

We are heading up from base camp (4600m/15,100ft) to begin our summit rotation! We’ve had a nice couple of rest days here and lots of good food, watching movies, hanging out, recharging. And today we’re gonna head up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) and tomorrow Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) or 3 (6277m/20,594 ft), and then go for the summit! So, hopefully we’ll summit around November 5th or 6th, be back in base camp a day or so after. And then, some of us will be heading towards an unclimbed peak in Nepal!

Weather’s looking great! The route conditions are looking great. The team is strong and healthy, so we’re excited for this opportunity and looking forward to getting our climb underway!

We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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100% Success on Virgin Peak in Himalayas!

The team at advanced base camp this morning (11/4/18), after our Nup la Khang climb

Our expedition has concluded, with all of our climbers making a first ascent to the summit of the previously unclimbed Nupla Khang, a 6,861 meter / 22,641 ft. virgin peak deep in the Himalayas on the border of Nepal and Tibet, near Mount Everest.

Alpine Start

We awoke in Advanced Base Camp (5,848 meters / 19,300 ft) on summit day at 1 AM on November 2nd.  Our climb began around 2 AM on the Nupla glacier to access the base of the route. Once on route we made our way up steep snow and ice, climbing terrain very similar but steeper to the Lhotse face on Mount Everest. The climbing was very arduous and because of the steep slope angle on hard snow/ice.  There was no room for error, nor any good opportunity to rest.  We witnessed a beautiful sunrise.  Mount Everest first became visible over the skyline and then the surrounding peaks lit up with morning alpenglow.

The team reached the summit ridge around 10 AM and then began fixing rope.  The precarious ridge was very firm, steep and had exposed snow with a large snow cornice overhanging. We had to be very careful to stay off the snow cornice as we made our way along the winding ridge to the highest point, where the borders of Nepal & Tibet (China) meet.

First Ascent

The first of us arrived at the top around 11:30 AM.  Luckily there was actually a small place to stand at the intersection of the 3 ridgelines.  We were happy to stand on flat ground for the first time since beginning the climb before dawn. Once at the top, we briefly celebrated the moment and the view, then began our descent; first along the ridge and then via many rappels down to the base of the route.  We were very lucky to have good weather on our summit day, with calm winds and clear skies.

What’s next?

Our team is now finished with the ‘unclimbed peak’ expedition. Some of our climbers have just arrived by helicopter in Kathmandu and are preparing to head home, while some other climbers from our team are staying in Nepal to attempt Ama Dablam, an iconic 6,812 meter / 22,349 ft. peak near Mount Everest. Ama Dablam is situated along the trekking route to Mount Everest & Everest base camp.

Currently, Sid, Josh, & Ingvild are making their way from our ‘unclimbed peak’ base camp to Ama Dablam base camp, while the rest of us have elected to helicopter from base camp back to Kathmandu, a quick and exhilarating way to exit the high Himalaya. It’s been a great expedition.  I’m very thankful for our team of climbing Sherpas who helped make this ‘first ascent’ possible. It’s been a pleasure to climb with these guys this year on Mount Everest, K2, and now on Nupla Khang, and I look forward to climbing with them again on Mount Everest next spring!

Morning view of Tharke Khang, which we were the first climbers to ascend in 2017

Morning view of Tharke Khang, which we were the first climbers to ascend in 2017

Front pointing on the Nup la Khang summit ridge

Front pointing on the Nup la Khang summit ridge

Norwegian climber Ingvild Settemsdel at the Nup la Khang summit

Norwegian climber Ingvild Settemsdel at the Nup la Khang summit

A few of our climbers at the summit of Nup la Khang yesterday (11/3/18)

A few of our climbers at the summit of Nup la Khang yesterday (11/3/18)

Flying out of the high Himalayas at over 19,000 ft. and back to Kathmandu with expert Norwegian pilot Ingmar!

Flying out of the high Himalayas at over 19,000 ft. and back to Kathmandu with expert Norwegian pilot Ingmar!

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First Ascent of Nup la Khang!

We are excited to share the great First Ascent news as reported in the Himalayan Times:

KATHMANDU: Six climbers along with five Sherpa guides of Madison Mountaineering Nupla Khang Expedition Team 2018 has made first ascent of Mt Nupla Khang earlier today.

According to Managing Director of Himalayan Guides Nepal, Iswari Paudel, the expedition team led by Garrett Madison of the United States of America summitted the virgin peak at 11:10 am.

Other members of the team were Ingvild Marie Settemsdel of Norway, Joshua Joseph Miller, Sidney Pattison, Kristan Ann Bennet, and Ben Beres, all from the USA.

Likewise, Aang Phurba Sherpa, Pasdawa Sherpa, Kam Dorjee Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa and Lakpa Dendi Sherpa accompanied the climbers on their expedition.

Mt Nupla Khang — which is 6,861 m tall — lies in the Solukhumbu region.

As soon as the team gets back to network connectivity range, we will share some photos of this super accomplishment. Join us in congratulating the entire climbing team!!

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