Our 2018 ‘First Ascent of an Unclimbed Peak’ was successful!  Click here to read the recap of this historic climb.

Join us in the autumn of 2019 for another historic ‘first ascent’ of a 22,000’+ unclimbed peak in Nepal. This mountain is relatively nearby Mount Everest, and is unclimbed, presenting a beautiful line to the summit. The peak is approximately 6,500m – 7000m and presents significant technical challenges such as steep snow/ice, as well as route finding, glacier travel, and ridge climbing. We will begin our expedition in Kathmandu, then fly into Lukla and begin trekking to the base camp. From here we will have at least two higher camps on the mountain. We will have sherpa support and plan to use fixed ropes where appropriate, and stock our high camps with plenty of food, equipment, etc. After studying the mountain and climbing route we are very excited to test ourselves and explore this new area. We also are offering an Ama Dablam extension as an option for this program. This will surely be an incredible adventure!

If you are interested please contact our office for more details (+1-206-494-5799), or email info@madisonmountaineering.com. We are also offering a trek to the base camp that will accompany the climbing group for individuals such as friends or family members who would like to participate. The trekking group will spend one night in base camp and then return via a different route, visiting Everest base camp, then returning to Lukla and flying back to Kathmandu. If you are interested in the trek please contact us for details (+1-206-494-5799), or email info@madisonmountaineering.com. The cost will be commensurate with the Everest base camp trek.
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Nepal Peak First Ascent

Date(s)
  • October 20 – November 18, 2020
Cost USD 22,500
Deposit USD 9,000

Climbing Team:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel

Day 02: Preparation day / city tour

Day 03: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Phakding

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazar.

Day 05: Rest and Acclimatization in Namche Bazar.

Day 06: Trek to Khumjung.

Day 07: Trek to Dole.

Day 08: Trek to Macchermo

Day 09: Trek to Gokyo Lake

Day 10: Rest and Acclimatization in Gokyo

Day 11-12: Trek to base camp (5,357m)

Day 13-23: Climbing Period

Day 24: Cleaning up Base Camp

Day 25: Trek back to Gokyo

Day 26: Trek Back to Dole

Day 27: Trek back to Monjo

Day 28: Trek back to Lukla

Day 29: Fly back to Kathmandu. Transfer to Hotel.

Day 30: Depart for home country

Trekking Team:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel

Day 02: Preparation day / city tour

Day 03: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Phakding

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazar.

Day 05: Rest and Acclimatization in Namche Bazar.

Day 06: Trek to Khumjung.

Day 07: Trek to Dole.

Day 08: Trek to Macchermo

Day 09: Trek to Gokyo Lake

Day 10: Rest and Acclimatization in Gokyo

Day 11-12: Trek to base camp (5,357m)

Day 13: Rest in base camp

Day 14: Trek over Cho La Pass, sleep in Gorak Shep

Day 15: Visit Everest base camp and return to Gorak Shep

Day 16: Climb Kala Pattar and descend to Perhiche

Day 17: Trek to Debuche

Day 18: Trek to Namche

Day 19: Trek to Lukla

Day 20: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 21: Rest day in Kathmandu

Day 22: Depart Kathmandu for home country

First Ascent Expedition (Approx. 6500m)

  • October 20 – November 18, 2020
Cost: USD 22,500
Deposit: USD 9,000

Ama Dablam Extension: $8,950

Trek Dates:

  • October 20 – November 18, 2020
Trek Cost: $4,850
Deposit: $1,500

Costs Include:

  • Airport pick up in Kathmandu
  • 3 night accommodations in Kathmandu at Yak & Yeti Hotel, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition.
  • Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
  • Lodging for all nights during the trek to and from base camp.
  • Tents during the climb.
  • All food during the trek and climb. We provide high-quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have specific dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!
  • All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu. Helicopter out of base camp after the expedition is available as an optional upgrade.
  • All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, medical supplies, etc.
  • Sat phone is available at $3 per minute.
  • Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and guides.
  • All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits.

Costs Do Not Include:

  • Bank/wire transfer fees (if applicable)
  • Round-trip airfare to Kathmandu, Nepal
  • Meals in Kathmandu and extra hotel nights after the trek/climb (once the climber has left the mountain)
  • Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list)
  • Trip cancelation insurance or the required medical evacuation insurance
  • Comprehensive medical exam: a physician-signed Medical Release Form is required
  • Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks
  • All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
  • Personal Items
  • Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering
  • Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Nepal and home country
  • Gratuities, Sherpa summit bonuses, etc.

Cancellation/Refund Policy

  • There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without reaching or making progress towards expedition objective(s) (for example, the summit) due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering.
  • Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts towards reaching expedition objective(s) within our margin of safety.
  • Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
  • Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
  • Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
  • Deposit due with registration materials
  • All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
  • Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Please contact us if you have specific questions, we are happy to discuss all details of this program.

Print Gear List


Base Layers

  • Synthetic Short Underwear (2-3 pair): non-cotton style underwear
  • Lightweight Long Underwear (2-3 pair): long sleeve shirt and long pants
  • Heavyweight Long Underwear (1 pair)
  • Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt (1-2 pair)

Mid Layer

  • Soft Shell Jacket: to be worn over other layers
  • Soft Shell Pants: very breathable and water repellant
  • Lightweight Nylon Pants (1-2 pair)

Waterproof/Rain Layers

  • Hard Shell Jacket with hood: waterproof and breathable shell jacket
  • Hard Shell Pants: waterproof and breathable shell pants

Insulation Layers 

  • Heavyweight Insulated Down Jacket with hood: we primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 2
  • Insulated Pants: worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
  • Down Suit: worn when climbing above Camp 2

Headwear

  • Warm Hat: synthetic or wool hat (ski hat)
  • Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds
  • Baseball Cap or other sun hat: to shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
  • Bandana or Buff: to protect your neck/face from the sun

Eyewear 

  • Glacier Glasses: full protection with side covers or wrap around
  • Ski Goggles: to be worn on summit day in the event of high winds – (2nd pair optional)

Gloves

  • Lightweight Synthetic Base Layer Gloves: for wearing on a hot day
  • Soft Shell Gloves: to wear for moderate cold/wind
  • Shell Glove with Insulated Liner: to wear for severe cold/strong wind
  • Expedition Mitts: large enough to fit a liner glove inside
  • Heated Gloves (optional): Battery-powered heated gloves

Footwear

  • Liner Socks (3 pairs)
  • Wool or Synthetic Socks (6 pairs)
  • Heated Socks (optional)
  • Mountaineering boots
  • Hiking Boots/Shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp
  • Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp
  • Gaiters (optional)
  • Booties (optional)

Sleeping Equipment

  • Sleeping Bag (for high camps): rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
  • Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F
  • Self-inflating Sleeping Pads (2): full length is preferred, 1 for base camp and 1 for high camps
  • Closed-cell Foam Pad: to be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping
  • Earplugs

Mountaineering Gear

  • Expedition Backpack: approximately 65L
  • Compression Stuff Sacks: for reducing the volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack
  • Trash Compactor Bags: to line backpack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear
  • Backpack Rain Cover (optional)
  • Trekking Backpack: to carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
  • Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets: adjustable poles
  • Ice Axe: general mountaineering tool (65cm)
  • Crampons: general mountaineering crampons
  • Climbing Helmet: must be able to fit over your warm hat
  • Ascender: 1 right or left-hand ascender
  • “Y” Rig for ascender and safety carabiner
  • Accessory Cord: 30 feet (9m) of 6mm accessory cord
  • Alpine Climbing Harness: mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock-climbing “sport” harness
  • Carabineers: 3 regular and 3 locking
  • Belay/Rappel device
  • Headlamp: with 2 extra sets of new batteries

Travel Items

  • Large Duffel Bags with Locks (2): for transporting gear
  • Carry-on Backpack: can use trekking backpack, approximately 18” x 16” x 10” (46cm x 41cm x 26cm)
  • Travel Clothes: for days in cities and towns
  • Lightweight journal, sketchbook, pencils, pen
  • U.S. cash: for currency exchange to purchase SIM cards or merchandise in cities and villages

Additional Food Items

  • Snack Food: bring a few days’ supply of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc.
    variety of salty and sweet is good

Other Equipment

  • Cup: plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
  • Bowl: large plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
  • Spoon: plastic spoon (Lexan)
  • Water Bottles (2 or 3): wide mouth bottles with 1-liter capacity
  • Water Bottle Parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
  • Water Treatment (optional): UV-based or tablets
  • Thermos: 1 liter
  • Heated Insoles (optional): battery powered for your boots
  • Hand Warmers
  • Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
  • Lip Screen (2 sticks): SPF 30 or better
  • Toiletry Bag: include toilet paper and hand sanitizer
  • Pee bottle: 1-liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
  • Female Urination Device (FUD)
  • Knife or Multi-tool (optional)
  • Small Personal First-aid Kit: include athletic tape, band-aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, cough drops, etc.
  • Medications and Prescriptions: bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone
  • Handkerchiefs/Bandanas (optional)

Optional Electronics

  • Country-appropriate power plug adapters and power transformers
  • Avalanche Transceiver
  • Adventure Sports Watch: such as Garmin fēnix 6
  • GPS/Personal Satellite Communicator: such as Garmin inReach Mini
  • Personal Power System: such as Goal Zero Nomad 28 Plus Solar Panel and Sherpa 100AC Power Bank
  • Digital Entertainment: movies, tv shows, music, books loaded on to smartphone, iPad, Kindle
  • Camera: bring extra batteries, charger, and memory cards
  • Portable Travel Humidifier: battery powered

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in leading high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. We have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are highly competent experts in our field and love what we do!

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