As Expedition Leader and Guide for 6 years running, Garrett Madison has overseen all aspects for his teams related to planning, organization, and climbing on Everest / Lhotse. As one of the best known “Expedition Leaders” on Everest / Lhotse, Garrett has personally accompanied 37 climbers (clients) to the summit over the last 7 years (as well as many co guides and climbing Sherpas), and 4 to the summit of Lhotse, more than any other American. Garrett has recently climbed Lhotse (4th highest mountain) two times, in guiding climbers on the “peak to peak” combination in under 24 hours. Garrett has been part of many “firsts” on Everest, however, his proudest accomplishment is a 100% safety record.
Mt. Everest, known by the Nepalese / Sherpas as Sagarmatha and by the Tibetans as Chomolungma, is the world’s highest peak at 29,035’ (8850m) and is the border between Nepal and Tibet. Since the 1920s, many of the world’s top climbers have attempted to scale Everest, and May 29th 1953 marked the first successful ascent by Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) and Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand). Madison Mountaineering offers an unparalleled opportunity to climb Everest with small teams, top guides/Sherpas, and a focus on safety, summit success, and enjoying the experience of Everest throughout the expedition.
Now leading his 7th expedition to Everest (the last 6 years as ‘Expedition Leader’), Garrett Madison has reached the top 6 times (once per expedition), a very rare if not unmatched record for a guide. Garrett has personally guided more climbers (37) over the last 5 years than any other American mountain guide. This vast amount of organizational and logistical experience, combined with a commitment to provide the best possible services to ensure safety and success, make Madison Mountaineering the premier boutique guiding company on Everest. Enjoying the experience is a high priority, and our climbers can attest to having a great time throughout! Our teams are different than the large scale operations where climbers are slotted into specific dates for rotations and summit attempts, and may be one of many people sitting down to eat in the dining tent, or dealing with illness spreading throughout the group. Often these large groups have only a leader who remains in base camp, while with our team your leader climbs with you to the summit. By keeping our team small yet highly supported, we don’t compromise our standards in providing the best strategy, flexibility, and resources needed to succeed in the dynamic environment that is Everest. The equation for success and safety involves variables that can and often rapidly change such as:
• Weather (wind speed, precipitation, temperature)
• Acclimatization and health
• Climbing route (the route often changes daily through the Khumbu Icefall)
• Other climbers and teams (climbers needing assistance, evacuation, as well as periodic overcrowding on the route) Some teams now bring over 100+ Climbers and Sherpas, hardly an intimate experience!
We can quickly adjust to changing conditions better than any other team. We have the best communication systems available to monitor the weather (along with a dedicated meteorologist), to communicate with other teams on the mountain to collaborate on the route, weather, rescues, and summit schedule. We have an experienced base camp manager, a menu plan developed by a certified nutritionist, and a helicopter available that can evacuate an injured or ill climber if necessary from as high as Camp 3. Our Sherpas are among the finest and most respected on the mountain. We are a team that works together to accomplish our common goals of safety, success, and having fun. If you would like to know more, we invite you to contact us!
Please contact us to learn about our finely tuned acclimatization and climbing strategy.
April 1 – May 31, 2020
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition
Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.
• Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
• Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
• Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
• Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
• Carabiners: 3 locking and 3 regular
• Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
• Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
• Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
• Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
• Booties: Optional, down is best.
• Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
• Liner socks: 3 pair
• Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
• Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
• Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
• Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
• Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
• Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
• Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellant
• Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
• Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
• Insulated Down Jacket with hood: We primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 2.
• Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2.
• Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this climbing above Camp 2.
• Warm Hat: Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
• Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
• Baseball Camp or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
• Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
• Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
• Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
• Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
• Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
• Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
• Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
• Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
• Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
• Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
• Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
• Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
• Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
• Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
• Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
• Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
• Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
• Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
• Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
• Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
• Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
• Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
• Thermos: 1 liter
• Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
• Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
• Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
• Knife or multi tool (optional).
• Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear.
• Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
• Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
• Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
• Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
• Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
• Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
• Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.
Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!
Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.
Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!