Join us in Pakistan as we attempt a beautiful unclimbed peak! Our team will trek in with our K2 expedition team, and utilize the same base camp. This peak has been attempted but never before climbed to the summit. We hope to become the first team to reach the summit, relying on our decades of experience operating expeditions on many 6000, 7000, and 8000 meter Himalayan and Karakoram peaks. Previously we have led four expeditions to unclimbed peaks/routes on 6000m peaks in Nepal of similar difficulty.
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Pakistan Peak First Ascent

Date(s)
  • June 24 – July 19, 2024
Cost USD 22,500
Deposit USD 7,500

Day 1: Arrive in Islamabad

Day 2: Fly via fixed-wing aircraft from Islamabad to Skardu. Explore the village and relax in the gardens of the hotel overlooking the Indus River

Day 3: Rest day in Skardu, organize equipment, and prepare for the drive to Jhola/Paiju camp

Day 4: Drive to Jhola/Paiju camp in Jeeps

Day 5: Rest day in Paiju (3305m/10,906ft)

Day 6: Trek to Urdukas (4130m/13,630ft)

Day 7: Trek to Goro 2 (4250m/14,025ft)

Day 8: Trek to Concordia (4600m/15,180ft)

Day 9: Arrive K2 base camp (5650m/18,650ft)

Days 10-12: Rest days & training in base camp

Days 13-20: Climbing period. We climb to ABC, then traverse the glacier to Camp 1 at the base of the route. We may also establish a higher camp before making our summit attempt. During this time, we establish our route and any high camp(s) while evaluating the weather for our summit rotation.

Day 21: Organize gear for departure, begin trekking to Goro 2

Day 22: Trek from Goro 2 to Urdukas

Day 23: Trek from Urdukas to Paiju

Day 24: Drive from Paiju to Skardu by jeep

Day 25: Fly Skardu to Islamabad

Day 26: Depart Islamabad for home country

Days 27+: Contingency days to account for delays due to weather, route conditions, etc.

*Helicopters are available to fly in / out from Base camp, to reduce the trekking time.

As with any complex mountaineering expedition the itinerary is likely and subject to change.

Unclimbed Peak in Pakistan

  • June 24 – July 19, 2024
Cost: USD 22,500
Deposit: USD 7,500

Costs include:

  • Airport pick up in Islamabad
  • 2 nights accommodations in Islamabad at 4 star hotel, 1 night before and 1 night after the expedition. (If additional nights in Islamabad are required climbers must pick up the extra nights)
  • Welcome dinner in Islamabad, breakfast included with hotel stay (2 nights)
  • Hotel nights in Skardu, breakfast, lunch and dinner included
  • Private Jeep transportation to Askoli
  • Tents during the trek and climb. At base camp each climber will have a large tent at base camp for personal use. We will have a private dining tent for our expedition, and a private communications tent for our expedition. A toilet tent and shower tents will also be provided exclusive to our team, as well as lights, heaters, and a power source for recharging your electronics
  • All food during the climb. No expense is spared in providing high quality food from the USA and Pakistan/Nepal. If you have particular dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!
  • All transportation in Pakistan, including round-trip flights from Islamabad to Skardu & Skardu to Islamabad. In the event these flights are cancelled we will usually wait a few days for another flight before making the 2 day journey by bus to Skardu
  • All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: ropes, tents, cooking gear, fuel, stoves, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, VHF radios for all members, other communication gear, plenty of oxygen for all climbers & Sherpas, oxygen mask & regulator, medical supplies, etc.
  • Internet access & satellite phones in base camp. Satellite phone is available at $3 per minute
  • Professional weather forecasting services from USA & European based meteorologists
  • Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and guides
  • All administration fees owed to Islamabad, including climbing permits

Costs do not include:

  • Bank Wire Transfer Fees (if applicable)
  • International round-trip airfare (USA-Pakistan-USA)
  • Meals in Islamabad and extra hotel nights after the climb (once the climber has left the mountain). If we are delayed in Islamabad climbers must pay for additional nights
  • Personal gear for any standard 8000-meter peak expedition, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list)
  • Insurance. A comprehensive medical insurance policy is required to embark on this expedition. An evacuation Insurance Policy is also mandatory. Helicopter evacuation from base camp is available and very expensive
  • Trip cancellation insurance. This is highly recommended
  • Comprehensive medical exam. A physician signed Medical Release Form is required
  • Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks
  • All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
  • Personal Items
  • Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering
  • Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Pakistan and home country
  • Gratuities ($1000 Sherpa summit bonus for your personal Sherpa). Western guide gratuity
  • Option to depart base camp by helicopter

Cancellation/Refund Policy

  • There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without reaching or making progress towards expedition objective(s) (for example, the summit) due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering.
  • Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts towards reaching expedition objective(s) within our margin of safety.
  • Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
  • Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
  • Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
  • Deposit due with registration materials
  • All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
  • Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Print Gear List

 

Base Layers

  • Synthetic Short Underwear (2-3 pair): non-cotton style underwear
  • Lightweight Long Underwear (2-3 pair): long sleeve shirt and long pants
  • Heavyweight Long Underwear (1 pair)
  • Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt (1-2)

Mid Layers

  • Soft Shell Jacket: to be worn over other layers
  • Soft Shell Pants: very breathable and water repellant
  • Lightweight Nylon Pants (1-2 pair)

Windproof/Rain Layers

  • Hard Shell Jacket with hood: waterproof and breathable shell jacket
  • Hard Shell Pants: waterproof and breathable shell pants

Insulation Layers

  • Heavyweight Insulated Down Jacket with hood
  • Insulated Pants
  • Down Suit (optional): worn on summit day

Headwear

  • Warm Hat: synthetic or wool hat (ski hat)
  • Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds
  • Baseball Cap or other sun hat: to shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
  • Bandana or Buff: to protect your neck/face from the sun

Eyewear

  • Glacier Glasses: full protection with side covers or wrap around
  • Ski Goggles: to be worn in the event of high winds

Gloves

  • Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves: for wearing on warm days
  • Soft Shell Gloves: to wear for moderate cold/wind
  • Shell Glove with Insulated Liner: to wear for severe cold/strong wind
  • Expedition Mitts: large enough to fit a liner glove inside

Footwear

  • Liner Socks (3 pairs)
  • Wool or Synthetic Socks (3 pairs)
  • Mountaineering Boots
  • Hiking Shoes/Boots: comfortable hiking boots or shoes for the trek to base camp
  • Camp Boots (optional): comfortable boots for wearing in camp
  • Gaiters (optional)
  • Booties (optional)

Sleeping Equipment

  • Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -20°F
  • Self-inflating Sleeping Pad: full length is preferred
  • Closed-cell Foam Pad: to be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping
  • Earplugs

Mountaineering Gear

  • Expedition Backpack: approximately 75L
  • Compression Stuff Sacks: for reducing the volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc. in your pack
  • Trash Compactor Bags: to line backpack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear
  • Backpack Rain Cover (optional)
  • Trekking Backpack: to carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
  • Trekking Poles with Optional Snow Baskets: adjustable
  • Ice Axe: short ice axe (max 60cm)
  • Crampons: general mountaineering crampons
  • Climbing Helmet: must be able to fit over your warm hat
  • Ascender: 1 right or left-hand ascender
  • “Y” Rig for ascender and safety carabiner
  • Accessory Cord: 30 feet (9m) of 6mm accessory cord
  • Alpine Climbing Harness: mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock-climbing “sport” harness
  • Carabineers: 2 regular and 4 locking
  • Carabineer for progression lanyard (locking)
  • Belay/Rappel Device
  • Headlamp: with 2 extra sets of new batteries
  • Pack Liner (2 pieces)

Travel Items

  • Large Duffel Bag with Lock: for transporting gear to base camp, no hard sides or wheels
  • Small Duffel Bag with Lock: to store items in the hotel(s) while on the climb
  • Carry-on Backpack: can use trekking backpack, approximately 18” x 16” x 10” (46cm x 41cm x 26cm)
  • Travel Clothes: for days in cities and towns
  • Lightweight journal, sketchbook, pencils, pen
  • U.S. cash: for currency exchange to purchase SIM cards or merchandise in cities and villages

Additional Food Items

  • Snack Food: bring a few days’ supply of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. variety of salty and sweet is good

Other Equipment

  • Cup: plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
  • Bowl: large plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
  • Spoon: plastic spoon (Lexan)
  • Water Bottles (2 or 3): wide mouth bottles with 1-liter capacity
  • Water Bottle Parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
  • Water Treatment
  • Thermos: 1-liter
  • Hand/Foot Warmers
  • Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
  • Lip Screen (2 sticks): SPF 30 or better
  • Toiletry Bag: include toothbrush, toothpaste, toilet paper, baby wipes and hand sanitizer (2 small bottles)
  • Pee Bottle: 1-liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
  • Female Urination Device (FUD)
  • Knife or Multi-tool (optional)
  • Small Personal First-aid Kit: include athletic tape, band-aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, cough drops, etc.
  • Medications and Prescriptions: bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox, etc.
  • Handkerchiefs/Bandanas (optional)

Optional Electronics

  • Country-appropriate power plug adapters and power transformers
  • Avalanche Transceiver
  • Adventure Sports Watch: such as Garmin fēnix 6
  • GPS/Personal Satellite Communicator: such as Garmin inReach Mini
  • Personal Power System: such as Goal Zero Nomad 28 Plus Solar Panel and Sherpa 100AC Power Bank
  • Digital Entertainment: movies, tv shows, music, books loaded on to smartphone, iPad, Kindle
  • Camera: bring extra batteries, charger, and memory cards
  • Portable Travel Humidifier: battery powered

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in leading high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. We have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun! Safety is always our number one priority.

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are highly competent experts in our field and love what we do!

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