Tag Archive for: Summit Push

Starting up soon!

Looking up the route from Camp 4 on the South Col.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest expedition team is excited and ready to set off for the summit! The team rested today and made their final preparations before beginning their summit push in just a few hours time. Meanwhile, our Lhotse expedition team stepped onto the summit around 8:00 AM local time, reaching the fourth-highest peak on Earth, and a huge accomplishment! We’re so proud of everyone on the team and send our best wishes for a safe and smooth summit tomorrow on the world’s highest peak. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this pre-summit push dispatch from Camp 4:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in, it’s May 22nd, 4:00 PM.

Our team got up to the South Col, Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) yesterday evening, settled in, had a good nights rest, and today we’re making final preparations to go for the summit tonight, probably leaving around midnight or 1:00 AM!

This morning, our Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team, led by Terray Sylvester made the summit of Lhotse! They reported good conditions. They topped out around 8:00 AM. Congratulations to Terray, Andras, Aga, Lakpang Chu [sp?], and Sumba Sherpa [sp?]. Great job! We’re very proud of them. They topped out on Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) earlier, and now Lhotse, and they’ll be heading down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft).

We’re getting ready to go for the Everest (8848m/29,032ft) summit tonight! Fingers crossed for good weather. The team’s doing great up here! Wish us luck as we set off to climb the highest mountain in the world. Check in soon!

Looking out towards Makalu from the South Col.

Looking out towards Makalu from the South Col.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Back in base camp after the summit!

The team on the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team has safely returned to their base camp after topping out on the world’s fifth-highest peak! Just in time for dinner, the team descended into their camp, concluding another chapter of this challenging expedition. The team climbed under the moon and stars from Camp 3, gaining Makalu’s summit ridge as the sunrise began to light-up the surrounding peaks – a welcome sight after climbing in the dark for so long! With Alex in our hearts, our team stepped onto the summit and embraced, taking in the moment as this dream was realized before turning back and heading down. We’re so proud of this team! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition – today is May the 12th. It’s a beautiful morning here in base camp, sunny and warm, and we are relaxing after our successful summit yesterday morning! We stood on top of the fifth-highest peak on the planet yesterday, about 6:00 AM.

It was a great summit day! We left Camp 3 at about 9:30 PM on May 10th, climbed through the night under a mostly full moon and arrived on Makalu’s summit ridge just before sunrise, which meant we got to watch as the morning sun illuminated the Kangshung Face of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), right next door. We could see headlamps of climbers way up on Everest on the southeast ridge, just below the summit. So yeah, it was a really great summit day and then we descended all the way back down to base camp yesterday evening and arrived in time for dinner at our normal time, 6:00.

It was a great climb and I think the best possible way to wrap up what has been a really difficult time here at Makalu for the whole Madison Mountaineering team after our teammate and friend, Alex Pancoe passed away so suddenly at Camp 2 during our acclimatization rotation. That event just left us all reeling, but we talked it over and it was clear to us that Alex brought, he brought so much stoke to the mountains. He loved being here so much and we were sure that he would have wanted us to keep climbing. So, on the 8th, we realized that we had just enough time to get to the summit in good weather before jet stream winds returned to the top of the mountain, so we went for it.

We will spend the rest of today packing up, wrapping up the expedition and then we are going to start making our way back down to lower elevations! We’ll be in touch.

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Makalu Summit Success!

Our team climbing above base camp earlier in the expedition (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The morning of May 11th brought uplifting news to our Everest–Lhotse expedition team: our Makalu team had successfully reached the summit! After a deeply emotional beginning to the journey with the loss of our dear teammate, Alex Pancoe, the entire team came together on the top, sharing heartfelt hugs and high-fives. We couldn’t be prouder of this incredible achievement — and we know Alex would be, too. As they awaited updates from the world’s fifth-highest peak, our Everest–Lhotse team rejoiced in the news, drawing inspiration as they prepare for their own summit rotation. Expedition leader Garrett Madison shares this latest dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team and today is Sunday, May 11th in the morning here in Nepal.

We’ve got some good news to report – our Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team led by Terray Sylvester, along with climbers Kristin and Aga, and five of our stellar Nepal Sherpas all summited Makalu today! They reported great weather conditions and had a wonderful summit. Now, they’re making their way down to Camp 3 and Camp 2.

So, we’re very happy for our Makalu team! It’s been a great end to their season, despite losing one of the team members, Alex Pancoe, to a likely cardiac arrest in Camp 2 earlier in the season. So, wonderful conclusion to the Makalu expedition!

The Everest team here, most of us are down in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) actually resting and recuperating, getting ready for the final summit rotation. A couple members are up here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) hanging out with myself and guides, Conan and Cacho, Aang Phurba’s up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) managing the Sherpa team at the moment.

So, all is well here on Mount Everest! We’re just watching the forecast and the rope fixing is in, so waiting for the winds to drop a bit and our members to be 100% before we embark on our final summit push!

So, all is well here in Nepal on Everest! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Makalu Camp 3

The team together earlier in the expedition with Makalu behind (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team has ascended to Camp 3 and is now setting their sights on the summit. After a successful day of climbing, the team is settled into their sleeping bags, ready and in position for the final push. The day began with breathtaking views of Everest and Lhotse nearby, and the climbers moved efficiently and powerfully through mixed terrain of snow, rock, and ice. With a favorable weather window, they’re fully prepared to make their summit bid. Expedition leader Terray Sylvester shares this update from Makalu:

Hello from Camp 3 (7,480m / 24,540′). This morning we made good time here over the varied terrain (golden granite, snow, occasional ice) that leads to this camp located just on the far side of the Makalu La. The whole team is moving with strength and determination. I’m super proud of our climbers and sherpa staff. Clear skies this morning afforded us excellent views of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and the South Col (7900m/25,919ft) between them, seemingly just a stone’s throw away. Now the afternoon convective pattern that has prevailed lately has wrapped us in clouds. We plan to relax for the rest of the evening before potentially starting our final summit push. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Another successful climb on Carstensz Pyramid!

Summit photo atop Carstensz Pyramid!

It comes with great excitement to share that another Madison Mountaineering team has successfully reached the summit of Carstensz Pyramid! This marks the last of the ‘seven summits‘ for our climber, Scott, and the last of our climbs on the highest peak in Oceania for the current season. A huge congratulations goes out to our team who enjoyed excellent weather for the their time on the mountain, making great time up the route as they navigated engaging terrain on their way to the summit. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this celebratory dispatch following their summit on Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) private climb – today is March 9.

Today we summited Carstensz Pyramid, the highest point in Oceania and one of the ‘seven summits‘, depending on how you count. It was a fantastic climb! We left camp a little after 3:30 and stood on the summit around 7:00. It was a quick climb and excellent conditions! There was a high overcast which kept things cool as we came down, but the rock was dry and the route was in great shape. It was really spectacular moving up the fun and varied terrain that takes you up the series of ledges and steep sections up to the summit ridge, and then across the famous cable crossing, and then along the ridge winding around towers with a few crack step overs, and onto the summit!

We dropped back down in time for lunch and just had a nice meal of potato-beef soup, fresh greens, curried chicken, and rice! So, now we’re heading to bed and we’re looking forward to hopefully, hopefully flying out tomorrow depending on the weather.

Okay, yeah! Great news and the last element of this is that this was the final one of the ‘seven summits‘ for our guest, Scott! So, it was great to be able to join him for that milestone.

All is well here in West Papua and we’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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To the summit and back to base camp!

Summit photo on top of Mount Vinson!

We’re excited to share that the Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson expedition team has safely and successfully climbed to the highest point in Antarctica, and descended all the way back down to their base camp in the same day! A strong team that brought the excitement all expedition, the team is now enjoying the comforts of their base camp and celebrating their achievement of climbing one of the famed seven summits, Mount Vinson! Congratulations to the entire team on a hard fought and well earned summit, and to all of our climbers this last season. It was another year for the books with 100% of our climbers and guides reaching the top! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Mount Vinson:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson (4892m/16,050ft) expedition. This is our last trip of the season and we all summited Mount Vinson yesterday!

We had a beautiful summit day, perfect weather, and just wonderful route conditions all around. We climbed about six hours from high camp up to the summit, spent a good 45 minutes up there celebrating, enjoying the views, and then came all the way back down to high camp (3536m/11,600ft), and kept going! We packed up our camp and went all the way down to base camp (2140m/7,020ft)! Very strong crew and we just got down to base camp early this morning. We’re going to get a little rest and hopefully the planes will start flying later today and we’ll get back to Union Glacier Camp (700m/2,297ft)!

All is well here – 100% success for this Vinson expedition and all three of our Vinson expeditions this season! So, big congrats to all of our climbers on all of our teams. (We’re) very happy to be here in Antarctica and looking forward to next season!

Climbing up high on Mount Vinson!

Climbing up high on Mount Vinson!

Beautiful, blue sky day in Antarctica!

Beautiful, blue sky day in Antarctica!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

 

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100% Summit Success on Vinson!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive.

It comes with great pleasure to share that all members of the Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson expedition team reached the roof of Antarctica today! Under blue skies and with excellent views of the surrounding Antarctic expanse, our team walked together up the final ridge on their way towards the top. Coming together on the summit, all nine climbers embraced with hugs, high-fives, and a birthday celebration for one of our team members, Alina! Now safely back in high camp, the team will get some rest before packing up and heading back down to base camp tomorrow. Awesome work, team! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Mount Vinson high camp:

Hello! This is Garrett and Benny calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson (4892m/16,050ft) team.

We are back in high camp (3536m/11,600ft) after a successful summit today on January 8th, 100 % success! Everyone in our team of seven climbers, two guides made the summit. It was awesome! We had great weather, epic views, and a big celebration on the top. One of our members, Alina had a birthday today, so we sang her a happy birthday on the summit! We took lots of photos and videos and got back down here in high camp.

Winds are picking up, it’s storming a little bit. It’s supposed to storm more tomorrow, so we are going to pack up and head down first thing tomorrow and get down to base camp (2140m/7,020ft). So everyone is doing well and we will check in soon!

# Name Country
1 Garrett Madison United States
2 Benjamin “Benny” Lieber United States
3 Matthew Newton Australia
4 Alina Pekova Russia
5 Asad Memon Pakistan
6 Justin Barron United States
7 Putri Handayani Indonesia
8 Bart Heijermans Netherlands
9 Famke Heijermans Netherlands

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ready to go for the summit!

High Camp on Mount Vinson (photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson expedition team has reached their high camp and is in position to go for the summit! With good weather tomorrow, the team will exit their tents with boots on and packs shouldered and begin moving up the route, step by step across the Vinson Massif on their way to the highest point in Antarctica! The team is well fueled, excited, and ready to go! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Mount Vinson:

Hello! This is Garrett and Benny at the high camp (3536m/11,600ft) of Mount Vinson (4892m/16,050ft). We are in position with our team for a summit push tomorrow!

We had a great day coming up from low camp (2774m/9,100ft) to high camp on the fixed ropes. Beautiful day, great views, warm temps, not much wind. We got up to high camp, dug out our gear, set up our camp kitchen. We had a good dinner, macaroni and cheese, some quesadillas, burgers, and strawberries for dessert and some french fries! Now we’re just making hot water for everybody so they can have hot water bottles in their sleeping bags – so deluxe up here!

We are going to wake up tomorrow and go for the summit! So fingers crossed the weather holds and we have good weather and route conditions tomorrow on our summit push on Mount Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica.

All is well here in high camp! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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All boots on the summit!

The team on the summit of Mount Vinson!

We are excited to share that the Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson expedition has safely and successfully reached the summit of Antarctica’s highest peak! All boots landed on the summit over the weekend under clear skies and with much excitement, embraced with hugs and high-fives at the roof of one of the most remote and pristine places on the planet. Now back in Union Glacier Camp after a swift descent and scenic plane flight, the team will enjoy a few last days on the ice before boarding the plane back to Punta Arenas, Chile and then on to their home countries. Nice work, everyone! What a great way to start the season in Antarctica. Expedition leader, Benny Lieber checks in with this dispatch from Union Glacier Camp:

We made it to the summit of Mount Vinson (4892m/16,050ft) on December 14. The highest peak sticking up amongst the most frozen landscape on Planet Earth at 16,050ft. And positioned at 78°S in Antarctica.

There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and as we climbed up the last few hours we covered our faces and hands to stay warm in an Antarctic wind. On the top the wind faded to nearly nothing. We smiled and hugged and looked out at the endless ice in every direction. A surreal view unlike any other in the world.

I’m so proud of our team for their hard work and commitment to standing on the top together- which is a memory that will stay with us all forever.

Clear Antarctic skies!

Clear Antarctic skies!

Descending down the mountain with Mount Shinn behind.

Descending down the mountain with Mount Shinn behind.

Mount Vinson's summit ridge.

Mount Vinson’s summit ridge.

The team on their way up with the expansive Antarctic landscape stretching as far as the eye can see!

The team on their way up with the expansive Antarctic landscape stretching as far as the eye can see!

Ascending fixed lines on the way up the mountain!

Ascending fixed lines on the way up the mountain!

Ascending fixed lines toward high camp!

Ascending fixed lines toward high camp!

Dinner time!

Dinner time!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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In position to go for the summit!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive.

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Vinson expedition team has settled into their high camp and is in position to make their summit push! The team enjoyed sunny skies as they climbed fixed lines up steep slopes on their way into camp. Now cozied up into their sleeping bags with full bellies after a nice dinner, the team is motivated and ready to make their push for the summit! With good weather and mountain conditions ahead, we’ll again emerge from our tents, only this time on our way to the top of the highest point in Antarctica! Expedition leader, Benny Lieber checks in with this dispatch from Mount Vinson:

Hey! This is Benny here, Mount Vinson (4892m/16,050ft) expedition. We are at high camp – 12,400 feet. We climbed up from low camp today, steep slopes with fixed ropes and the team did great! Everyone’s well, snuggling into their sleeping bags after a nice, hot dinner. The weather is great, the winds have cleared out, skies are clear also and we’re looking forward to climbing the mountain! Thanks.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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