Tag Archive for: Nuptse

The team making their way up the beautiful Khumbu Valley!

Hello, from the Khumbu Valley! The spring, 2024 Himalayan season is underway and our team has begun their trek towards Everest Base Camp. After traveling from around the world and arriving in Kathmandu, the team settled into their hotel rooms before conducting a gear check, orientation, and enjoying a nice welcome dinner as a team! The following morning after a big breakfast at the Yak and Yeti hotel, our team gathered on the helicopter pad and awaited their lift to Lukla – the starting point for where we’ll begin the trek to Everest Base Camp. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Phakding:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition team! Today is April 14, Sunday, and today we flew from Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) by helicopter to start the trek. We trekked to the first village, Phakding (2610m/8,562ft), where we had an afternoon lunch and dinner. We had beautiful views today – so nice to be up in the Khumbu Valley where the air is fresh, the views are magnificent, and the people are wonderful.

So, we’re excited to be in the mountains heading uphill towards Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) and beyond. Everyone’s doing well and we’ll check in soon tomorrow from Namche (3440m/11,290ft)!

Team photo outside of our team hotel, the Yak and Yeti!

Team photo outside of our team hotel, the Yak and Yeti!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team at base camp! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering team reached Everest base camp today with beautiful weather! This marks their turn around point, where our trekkers will trek down the valley back to Lukla, and board their flight out of the Himalaya. Meanwhile, our Lobuche East and Island Peak climbers still have more to do before making their departure. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Lobuche village:

Hello! This is Terray calling in from Nepal for the Madison Mountaineering Everest base camp (5364m/17,598ft) trek, and Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) and Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) climbs – today is October 30th.

Today we had a big day! We touched Everest base camp, we left Gorak Shep (5164m/16,942ft) early and enjoyed solitude on the trails to base camp, as well as more fantastic weather. We arrived in base camp around 9:30, enjoyed the sun, took a lot of pictures, and then we walked back to Lobuche village (4940m/16,210ft). We’re getting ready for dinner here in Lobuche now. We had light snow this evening, but also some alpenglow on Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) high above us.

We’re looking forward to tomorrow! Tomorrow our trekkers will continue down the valley to Deboche where they’ll enjoy some hot showers and cozy accommodations at the Rivendell Lodge. Our Lobuche East climbers will move up to Lobuche East high camp!

So, we’ll be in touch! All is well in Nepal.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team topping out on Kala Patthar with excellent views of Mount Everest (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest base camp trekking team reached their high point today, ascending Kala Patthar which is considered a trekkers peak that overlooks Everest base camp and with 360 degree views of the mountains, valleys and glaciers all around. The team could not have asked for better weather and took their time while they soaked up the sun and views at over 18,000 feet. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest base camp (5364m/17,598ft) trek, and Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) and Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) climbs – today is October 29th.

Today we trekked from Lobuche village (4940m/16,210ft) to Gorak Shep (5164m/16,942ft). We had a nice lunch and then we hiked up to the top of Kala Patthar (5644m/18,519ft), which is higher than 18,000 feet – about 5,500 meters which would make it just about as high as the third highest peak in North America, but here of course, it’s just a foothill among giants. However, we had excellent views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), Pumori (7161m/23,494ft), and even just a peak of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft)! It can be pretty cold on Kala Patthar at times, but we got really lucky with the weather. We were able to bask in the sun for a little while, take some pictures, and then we hiked down to Gorak Shep where we’ll spend the night!

Tomorrow we’ve got another exciting day! We’ll go to Everest base camp and then we’ll start trekking back down the Khumbu Valley. So, we’re all doing well here in the Khumbu and I’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Everest and Nuptse, with Lhotse just barely visible (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest and Nuptse, with Lhotse just barely visible (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team departing from Deboche with views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Under beautiful, clear-blue Himalayan skies, our Madison Mountaineering teams continued their trek further up the Khumbu Valley with a stop in Pangboche for a blessing at the monastery. This is a special experience for many – these cultural experiences along with trekking and climbing in the Himalaya make for a truly engaging combination. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Pheriche:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest base camp (5364m/17,598ft) trek, Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) and Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) climbs – today is October 26.

Today we trekked from Deboche (3820m/12,532ft) to Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft). Along the way we stopped for a blessing at the monastery in Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft). That’s always a nice ceremony – a nice way to mark a milestone in our trip as we get closer to Everest base camp. In Pangboche, we also parted ways with the Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) team. They’re going to spend the night in Pangboche tonight, and then move up to Ama Dablam base camp (4600m/15,100ft) tomorrow.

But now, the Everest base camp trekking team is here in Pheriche – we’re just relaxing before dinner. For most of the day we had excellent weather yet again with crystal clear skies, and great views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) ahead of us. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Garrett and our Everest Base Camp crew: Max, Alex, Kirk and Nick (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Garrett and our Everest Base Camp crew: Max, Alex, Kirk and Nick (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp trekker, Max visiting the monastery in Pangboche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp trekker, Max visiting the monastery in Pangboche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

EBC trekker, Max and climber, Thomas trekking above Deboche with Garrett (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

EBC trekker, Max and climber, Thomas trekking above Deboche with Garrett (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Visiting the Pangboche Monastery (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Visiting the Pangboche Monastery (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our Everest Base Camp trekking team approaching Shomare with Lhotse in the background (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our Everest Base Camp trekking team approaching Shomare with Lhotse in the background (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

A yak on the trek towards Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

A yak on the trek towards Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

EBC trekkers, Max and Nick trekking toward Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

EBC trekkers, Max and Nick trekking toward Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Trekking guide, Aaditya Nachhiring approaching Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Trekking guide, Aaditya Nachhiring approaching Pheriche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The Madison Mountaineering team with the summit of Mount Everest all to themselves on May 24, 2023 (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

We had great climbs of Everest (May 24th) and Lhotse (May 25th). The conditions were the best I’ve ever had on summit day; warm, calm, and hardly any other climbers on the route. We had the summit all to ourselves for over an hour. In addition to eight clients, four guides, and 15 Nepal Sherpas reaching the summit of Everest, we had three clients, two guides, and three Sherpas reach the summit of Lhotse the following day. Peter Horsman became the first Dutchman, Debbie Bulten became the first Canadian woman, and Danah Ali became the first Emirati to complete the Everest & Lhotse peak to peak combination.

Unfortunately, on the way down from Camp 4 on May 25th at 7500m, one of our climbers, Pieter Swart passed away in the evening from a rapid onset lung infection / pulmonary edema. Guides, Terray Sylvester & Scott Webster spent the entire day with him assisting in his descent, joined by myself and Cacho Beiza from 1:00 pm onwards after our Lhotse climb, as we attempted to descend with him down to Camp 3 where a helicopter rescue might be possible. We will remember him fondly for his kindness and enthusiasm towards our team and for living life to the fullest.

At this time, our focus is working with the Nepalese agencies to support Pieter’s family and our team as we conclude our expedition here in Nepal.

To higher places,

Garrett Madison


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The 2023 Madison Mountaineering team is back in base camp after summits on Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with a quick update from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition. Today is May 26th, we’re down in base camp (5364m/17,598ft).

We had great climbs of Everest, Lhotse, also Nuptse earlier in the season. The last of our Sherpas are coming down the mountain tomorrow. Some of our climbers have already flown to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft), enjoying hot showers in a hotel room tonight. The rest of us are here in base camp and planning to head out tomorrow.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Guide, Cacho Beiza helping climbers, Rick Irvine and Serge Larouche polish their technical skills on the Khumbu Glacier near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Here we go! With good weather in the forecast, technical trainings complete, and acclimatization done, the team is primed and ready to make their summit push! The team has one more day of rest and preparation before they, once again, venture through the Khumbu Icefall and up the mountain. Only this time, with plans to go for the summit! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition. Today is May 16th and we are preparing to head up soon to start our summit rotation!

Today, we did a little training review, went for a short hike, went over our oxygen systems and talked through what to expect on the summit push! Tomorrow, we’re going to rest and organize our final equipment, and then plan to head up tomorrow night, about 24 hours from now to start our summit rotation.

We’re looking at May 23rd for our potential Everest summit date. So, fingers crossed the weather holds, the conditions are good, and we get lucky! We’re excited, this is what we’ve been working for all year and we’re looking forward to get the climb underway.

Climber, Rick Irvine training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza helping climbers, Rick Irvine and Serge Larouche polish their technical skills on the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza helping climbers, Rick Irvine and Serge Larouche polish their technical skills on the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Serge Larouche training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Serge Larouche training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Base Camp and the summit of Mount Everest. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

After a well deserved couple of days spent at lower altitude, our team is pouring back into base camp where they await their summit push! With the anticipation building, the team kept themselves occupied today with hiking around base camp, a nourishing dinner this evening, and a movie to relax at the end of another good day. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with today’s dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is May 14th.

Today more of our climbers arrived back here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) from their drop back in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) where they were resting and recuperating at lower altitude. They had a beautiful flight via helicopter up to Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft), and then on to base camp.

Tomorrow the rest of our climbers, the last four members, will arrive here in base camp, and then we’ll have just a few more days, hopefully, before we start our summit push!

For today, we kept ourselves busy, spent some nice time exercising at altitude by hiking up on the slopes of Pumori (7161m/23,494ft), above base camp. Some of us also went to a point we call “prayer flag point” a little farther down valley, and then walked down past a beautiful alpine lake that’s up there. We came down, had a little bit of snow in the evening and then we’re just wrapping up dinner. It was a great dinner – macaroni and cheese, and steak, and sautéed vegetables, and some fruit cocktail for dessert! We’re just now settling in to watch Mission Impossible for our after dinner movie.

The stars are out, it’s peaceful here in base camp, and all is well! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Climbers, Serge Larouche and Rick Irvine hiking with guide, Scott Webster above base camp today. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Serge Larouche and Rick Irvine hiking with guide, Scott Webster above base camp today. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

It’s with great excitement to share that the Madison Mountaineering team has successfully reached the summit of Nuptse and safely returned to camp! The dramatic South Face hangs high over Everest Base Camp, leaving climbers and trekkers alike in awe of around 7,000 feet of vertical relief looming over the camp below. Nuptse receives far less traffic than neighboring Everest and Lhotse. But, thanks to the hard work and bravery of our Sherpa team, the route is now open to other teams to make their summit bids in the days and weeks to come! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from Camp 2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team – today is May 8th and we have some news to report… The Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) climb was successful today! Climbers Rich and Krisli, along with myself and Sherpa’s, Aang Phurba, Dawa, and four other folks from our team climbed together and reached the top of Nuptse, the true summit of Nuptse at about 1:00 PM today! So, it was a really tough climb, but a beautiful day up high in the mountains. Great views of Everest and Lhotse!

We’re all filtering back into high camp (6500m/21,325ft) now, nice to be off the mountain and down safe. So everyone is doing well and we are looking forward to heading down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) tomorrow and resting up for the next rotation which will be to climb Everest and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft)!

The “second wave” team with Cacho, Eva, Danah, Stevie had a great day acclimatizing, made it up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) today and (inaudible) views from the Lhotse Face. (They’re) back in camp as well. So, we’ll all be heading back down to base camp tomorrow! We’ll check in soon. Thanks!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The view up the Western Cwm towards Camp 2, the Lhotse Face and the summit of Everest. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

With our “first wave” of climbers recuperating and enjoying the comforts of Namche Bazaar, our “second wave” of climbers is currently up at Camp 2 with plans to descend to Everest Base Camp tomorrow. They’ve had a very successful second rotation as they prepare for their summit push! A few members of our team will continue higher into the Himalaya as they make their summit attempt on Nuptse! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Namche Bazaar:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is May 7th.

Today our “second wave” of Everest and Lhotse climbers were in Camp 2! They climbed part way up the Lhotse face toward Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), and then returned back down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) at the head of the Western Cwm. Tomorrow, they plan to descend back to base camp (5364m/17,598ft), and that will wrap up their acclimatization rotation. They’ve spent two nights at Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and three nights at Camp 2 as of tomorrow.

Meanwhile, our “first wave” of EverestLhotse climbers are down here in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We flew down here yesterday morning from base camp. It was a beautiful helicopter flight, and since then, we’ve been enjoying hot showers, eating good food and sucking up all the extra oxygen down here, which feels great! So, we’re just resting and biding our time, recuperating for our summit push which is still a little ways off. Right now we’re waiting for high winds to ease on the upper mountain so that our Sherpa team can carry oxygen and other supplies up as high as the South Col (7900m/25,919ft), and then we’ll start looking for a summit window.

Our Nuptse climbers moved up to high camp at the foot of the route this afternoon. They’re currently resting in high camp and preparing for a summit attempt that will start late tonight. Most of the route is fixed, and if the weather permits, then our climbers and our rope-fixing team will complete the route to the summit tomorrow morning.

So, lots of things going on here in Nepal, but all is well and we will be in touch tomorrow!

Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbing out of Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbing out of Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Erwin Visser crossing a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Erwin Visser crossing a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our "first wave" of climbers descending through the icefall back to EBC. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our “first wave” of climbers descending through the icefall back to EBC. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram: