Tag Archive for: lhotse face

Hello from Camp 4!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team has settled into Camp 4 after ascending the final section of the Lhotse Face and is in position to make their summit push! Over the Yellow Band and past the Geneva Spur the team went, making good time as they had the route mostly to themselves. It won’t be long before we set out for the summit! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 4:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team – today is May 21st.

We are in Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) at the South Col on Mount Everest! We had a great day. We started out from Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and climbed from about 6:30 AM all the way up the Lhotse Face. The team did an amazing job! We had incredible views all throughout the Western Cwm of Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), Cho Oyu (8188m/26,864ft), and of course Everest. We got up here to Camp 4 in great time – we got in a little after noon and set up our camp a little ways away from the main group of tents to have some privacy. We had a late lunch with some [garbled], relaxed, everyone had dinner, and now we’re just going to bed.

Our plan is to rest tonight and tomorrow, then leave the following night and summit on the morning of the 23rd. It looks like great weather, shouldn’t be too crowded, and we’re looking forward to a glorious day on the mountain!

Everyone’s doing great. (I’m) really proud of the team. Everyone did awesome today and we’re enjoying our night up here at Camp 4! We’ll check in soon.

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Made it to Camp 3!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team has crawled into their tents for the night after successfully climbing up to Camp 3 on Mount Everest! The team had the route to themselves and made good time moving out of the Western Cwm and up the lower section of the Lhotse Face. Coming up, the team will ascend to their final camp on Mount Everest which can only mean one thing – it won’t be long before we go for the summit! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 3:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) climb.

Today is Monday the 20th and today we climbed from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) on the Lhotse Face! Beautiful day, it started off a little cloudy and warmed up as we made our way up the Lhotse Face. It was very calm, not many climbers on the route today going up, so we’re very lucky to have no crowds. We saw some friends up here, and tucked into our tents midday and just relaxed, recuperated, just finished our dinner, and now we’re getting ready for bed. We have to wake up early and head up to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) tomorrow!

So, all is well here on the Lhotse Face of Mount Everest! We’ll check in soon. Thanks!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ready to move to Camp 3!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team is soon to be on the move again up to Camp 3! After a shift in the forecast, the team decided to stay put in Camp 2, setting themselves up for a tentative summit attempt on May 23rd. Spirits are high, everyone is doing great, and we’re ready to move up soon! Climber, Ryan Moore checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:

Hey, everybody! It’s day 36 of the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition.

We’re all feeling good here! It turns out that our initial summit day of May 22nd isn’t looking that good. The weatherman said that we should wait until the 23rd. Therefore, we decided to wait in Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) for one more day. So, that’s giving us a little bit more acclimatization time. We’re going to be stronger, ready to move up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) tomorrow morning – a nice alpine, 6:00 AM start. Not really “alpine,” but it’ll be nice.

Other than that, we’re all prepared, we’re getting those macros in. Better to be at Camp 2 rather than up higher waiting. It turns out a lot of teams actually turned back, so we made the right decision and we’re ready to go!

I’d like to shout out my dog, Harley! He’s technically my mom’s dog, but we all know that he likes me more! Sorry mom…

That’s all! Oh, this is Ryan by the way.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Resting in Camp 2

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team moved swiftly through the Khumbu Icefall, making good time and settling into their camp while they await their next move. The team plans to take a rest day before moving up to Camp 3 sitting over 2,000 feet above them on the Lhotse Face. Situated in the middle of the Western Cwm, Camp 2 is positioned at the foot of Himalayan giants in every direction you look – a dramatic place to call home even if just for a few nights! Climber, Hannah Wise checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:

Hello! This is Hannah Wise calling in with tonight’s dispatch. A quick recap, yesterday we climbed through the icefall for the second time. We moved faster than last time, but it’s pretty crazy how much it changes week over week. Less ladders this time around which was great, but the icefall was making more noise which was a little scary! We then climbed over Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and climbed straight to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). It was super hot, so a few stops near the end made for a much-needed break.

We spent today resting at Camp 2. Everyone is doing well! Tomorrow we’ll ascend up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and spend the night there before we move on to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft).

This is Hannah, checking out!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Making Progress!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse expedition teams are making good progress towards their different objectives! While the sun shined on the Lhotse Face as the team ascended to Camp 3, our Sherpa team was able to be seen over the “valley of silence” fixing the route up the Nuptse Face! Madison Mountaineering climber, Casey Diener checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:

This is Casey Diener calling in from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) with Madison Mountaineering! I’m just a climber on the team here.

We had a good acclimatization day. All the crew who set out for Lhotse Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) made it in good fashion. It was a mix of sun and clouds on the Lhotse Face today. Yeah, everyone made it in good [garbled]. Enjoying some good dinner tonight – curry chicken and some popcorn! Currently, the lines have been fixed to the summit of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft). Hopefully sometime in the near future Krisli, Nelly, and Terray will be ready to make a charge up the Lhotse Face once a weather window opens. They have camped for a couple of more recovery days [garbled]… Positive news, there has been more snow around here lately which has accumulated on the Lhotse Face which will help prevent future rockfall.

Today, the team was able to see the Sherpa team over on the Nuptse Face fixing the lines up the Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) route! So, progress is being made on that front as well. Tomorrow, the majority of the team will be heading down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) for some recovery before the next rotation.

This is Casey Diener, checking out!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Update from the Himalayas!

The Madison Mountaineering base camp with a dusting of snow beneath Mount Everest and Nuptse.

All is well for the Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams! While our Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse team is currently in Camp 2 continuing their acclimatization efforts, the Mountain Cleanup Project team is in base camp preparing to move forward with their summit rotation, cleaning up the different camps along the way. Everyone is in good spirits and there is lots of excitement surrounding the team as we grow closer to the summit push. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering spring, 2024 Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expeditions – today is May 7th. It’s a beautiful day here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft)! We’ve been having some convection each afternoon for the last few days and that’s brought a little dusting of snow each evening here in base camp and the upper mountain. It’s just made for really beautiful conditions here at Mount Everest with fresh, pristine snow on the ground in the morning. Hopefully, it’s also improving climbing conditions up high. It’s been very dry this season, so the mountain could use a little bit of snow.

Right now, Garrett, Aang Phurba, and Cacho are up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) with our main group of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse climbers. They plan to take a rest day at Camp 2 today and then continue acclimatizing probably by climbing part way up the Lhotse Face tomorrow. Our Nuptse climbers will start preparing to move to Nuptse high camp.

I’m in base camp with Nelly Attar, our Lhotse climber and cleaner. We plan to move up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) tonight, spend a night at Camp 1, then move up to Camp 2 where we’ll work on the majority of our cleanup efforts here at Lhotse. After that we’ll move on up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft), cleaning as we go, and then head for a summit of Lhotse maybe in about a week.

All is well here! Spirits are high and it’s great to be heading up the mountain. We’ll be in touch via inReach, text, or satphone call from the mountain.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Push – Camp 3

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Onward and upward! Having rested up yesterday, the team got back to work today and climbed part way up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 (C3) where they are settled into their tents for the night. With good weather, they’ll continue on up the mountain tomorrow to their high camp at 7,900m / 25,919ft. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from C3:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. Today is May 21st, and today we climbed from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft). We left a little after 6:00 AM and had great weather today, sunny and clear all the way up to Camp 3. Then moved into our tents, had some lunch, relaxed… We had a little bit of snow in the afternoon, some clouds, but nice weather overall, hardly any wind.

The team’s doing great and we are really excited to climb up to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) tomorrow! Thank you for following along and we will check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Camp 2 – Rest Day

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Following a full day yesterday, the team took a rest day today, enjoying good weather, food, and rest. The climbing has been smooth thus far and everyone is looking forward to the move up to Camp 3 tomorrow! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. We are up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) and everyone is doing well!

Yesterday, we climbed up from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) through the Khumbu Icefall, across Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), and up to Camp 2 here. Everyone is great. We have really good weather, good route conditions and got into Camp 2 in the afternoon.

It’ll be a nice restful day, dinner, and good night’s sleep. So, today we’re just resting. Our Sherpa team is up now on the Lhotse Face at Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), setting up our tent platforms and getting things ready for us to move up to Camp 3  tomorrow. So the plan is move up to Camp 3 on the 21st and the weather looks good! It looks like some calm days ahead, so we are excited for the forecast and moving up the mountain to give Everest and Lhotse our best shot!

So, we’ll check in soon. All is well here on Mount Everest!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Nuptse Summit Success!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

It’s with great excitement to share that the Madison Mountaineering team has successfully reached the summit of Nuptse and safely returned to camp! The dramatic South Face hangs high over Everest Base Camp, leaving climbers and trekkers alike in awe of around 7,000 feet of vertical relief looming over the camp below. Nuptse receives far less traffic than neighboring Everest and Lhotse. But, thanks to the hard work and bravery of our Sherpa team, the route is now open to other teams to make their summit bids in the days and weeks to come! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from Camp 2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team – today is May 8th and we have some news to report… The Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) climb was successful today! Climbers Rich and Krisli, along with myself and Sherpa’s, Aang Phurba, Dawa, and four other folks from our team climbed together and reached the top of Nuptse, the true summit of Nuptse at about 1:00 PM today! So, it was a really tough climb, but a beautiful day up high in the mountains. Great views of Everest and Lhotse!

We’re all filtering back into high camp (6500m/21,325ft) now, nice to be off the mountain and down safe. So everyone is doing well and we are looking forward to heading down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) tomorrow and resting up for the next rotation which will be to climb Everest and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft)!

The “second wave” team with Cacho, Eva, Danah, Stevie had a great day acclimatizing, made it up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) today and (inaudible) views from the Lhotse Face. (They’re) back in camp as well. So, we’ll all be heading back down to base camp tomorrow! We’ll check in soon. Thanks!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Wrapping up the second rotation!

The "first wave" team testing out their down suits in Camp 2 at 21,300'. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

After several days and nights spent above the Khumbu Icefall in the Western Cwm, the Madison Mountaineering team’s second acclimatization rotation is coming to a close! With a few days of rest and relaxation ahead, the team can start to look forward to their summit push. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is May 5th.

This morning our first wave of Everest and Lhotse climbers wrapped up their second acclimatization foray on the mountain. They spent three nights at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), climbed up toward the Lhotse face one day, and then this morning we returned back down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). It was absolutely beautiful weather for that descent and we had great conditions as we descended through the Khumbu Icefall, which is in really excellent shape this year!

Meanwhile, the second wave of our Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers are at Camp 2. They moved from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) to Camp 2 today, they’ll spend several nights there acclimatizing, and then descend back to base camp. If weather and route conditions allow, then some of those climbers will head up to Nuptse as well!

So, all is well here in base camp! Tomorrow, our first wave of climbers will start their drop back in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We’ll fly down the valley via helicopter to rest and relax, and prepare for our summit push. We’ll be in touch!

Morning light on Pumori as the "first wave" moved to Camp 2. (Photo: terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Pumori as the “first wave” moved to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, in the Khumbu Icefall on the way to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, in the Khumbu Icefall on the way to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Peter Horsman, and the "first wave" team descending out of the Western Cwm toward base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Peter Horsman, and the “first wave” team descending out of the Western Cwm toward base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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