Khumbu Archives

Ama Dablam 2022

Fantastic Weather for the First Rotation!

Our climber, Krisli, acclimatizing above base camp with Ama Dablam in the background. Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team awoke this morning to kick off their first rotation under crystal clear, blue bird skies with plans to spend a few nights up in Camp 1. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with a dispatch from Ama Dablam base camp:

Hey! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) team.

We are heading up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) today and have a perfect day – great weather, team’s doing awesome. We’re excited to get up there for a couple of nights to acclimatize and climb up on the route towards Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft), and then we’ll be back down in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) to rest up before our summit push.

So, all good here in base camp! Everyone’s doing well. Beautiful weather – just solid, blue bird days, sunshine every day. Just feeling so lucky for this great weather and happy to be here.

Check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

October 29, 2022/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2022

Primed for First Rotation!

Members of our team during todays puja. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team has arrived in base camp and is all set to begin their first rotation tomorrow! Over the course of the last few days, the team’s spent their time relaxing, doing trainings, sorting gear, acclimatizing, and taking part in a puja ceremony. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in from base camp with todays dispatch:

Hey! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition team – today is Friday, October 28th.

We arrived in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) a couple of nights ago, had a nice trek up here and base camp’s just been a great place to move into, relax, enjoy – the team’s doing well! We did some training, some gear sorting after we got here, and an acclimatization hike. Today, we did our puja ceremony!

Our plan is to head up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) for a couple of nights, starting tomorrow on our first rotation. It’ll be good to get up higher, acclimatize and check out some of the climbing route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft). We’ll be back down in a few days!

Everyone’s doing well! We’ll check in soon. Thanks!

Acclimatizing above base camp! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Rich, reviewing technical skills. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Rock, near Ama Dablam base camp! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Stephane, receiving a blessing for long life during today’s puja! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Puja ceremony in base camp! Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

October 28, 2022/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2022

Khumbu Climbing Center Visit!

Visiting the Khumbu Climbing Center in Phortse. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team made a visit to the Khumbu Climbing Center (KCC) today. The KCC’s mission is to “increase the safety margin of Nepali climbers and high altitude workers by encouraging responsible climbing practices in a supportive and community-based program.” Afterwards, the team trekked on to Pangboche, where they’ll spend the night and prepare to move on to Ama Dablam base camp tomorrow! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with todays dispatch:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – today is Tuesday, October 25th.

We are in Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft)! Started off in Deboche (3820m/12,532ft) this morning and we crossed the river and hiked up to Phortse (3840m, 12,598ft) where we visited the Khumbu Climbing Center – wonderful building! After that we trekked up the valley to Pangboche where we’re spending the night. Tomorrow our plan is to head up to Ama Dablam base camp (4600m/15,100ft).

We’re doing well here. The weather’s just been spectacular – perfect blue bird, sunny skies everyday! We’re feeling very lucky and excited to get to base camp.

The team trekking from Phortse to Pangboche with great views of Ama Dablam. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The Khumbu Climbing Center. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Rare, vintage climbing books in the KCC. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Hiking to Phortse. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climbers, Tracy and Rock, trekking to Phortse. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

October 25, 2022/1 Comment/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2022

Alpenglow on the Himalaya!

Alpenglow on Ama Dablam. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team continued onward from Namche Bazaar today, making stops at the Tengboche Monastery and the local bakery before arriving in Deboche. This evenings sunset cast beautiful alpenglow lighting upon the surrounding Himalaya while the team ate dinner and prepared to continue on their journey tomorrow. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch from Deboche:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – it’s October 24th.

Today we walked from Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) to the village of Deboche (3820m/12,532ft). Along the way we stopped at the famous Tengboche Monastery (3867m/12,687ft) and had a coffee and some pastries in the bakery there, and then toured the monastery. There was a big puja underway, so that was interesting to see! Then in the evening, we caught a beautiful sunset that lit up Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) with really nice alpenglow light.

So, we just finished dinner and are looking forward to another great day in the Khumbu Valley tomorrow! Tomorrow, we plan to hike up to Phortse (3840m, 12,598ft), then head over to Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft), which is where we’ll spend the night. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Climber, Jocelyn crossing the Dudh Koshi River on the way to Deboche! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Tengboche Monastery. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climbers at Tengboche Monastery. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Approaching Tengboche with Kangtenga in the distance. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

October 24, 2022/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2022

Perfect Weather On the Way to Namche!

Sirdar and Guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa crossing the famous suspension bridge below Namche with Guide, Hannah Smith. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Today, the team arrived in Namche Bazaar under crisp, clear blue skies. Namche is the main hub of the Khumbu region, and the biggest village climbers and trekkers alike will visit on their way further up the valley. Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – it’s October 22nd.

Today we walked from Phakding (2610m/8,562ft) to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We had another day of excellent weather. When we arrived in Namche we enjoyed a coffee at Sherpa Barista. Tomorrow we plan to take a rest day here in Namche.

So all is well in Nepal! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Walking from Phakding to Namche. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition Leader, Garrett Madison giving the morning briefing. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team arriving in Namche. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team in Jorsale. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

October 22, 2022/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2022

Into the Himalayas!

Our team in Phakding. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team had spectacular flying conditions today with views of the towering Himalayas before landing in Lukla! Upon their arrival, a few moments were spent in town before hitting the trail and heading to their next stop, Phakding. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – it’s October 21st.

Today we had excellent weather for our helicopter flights from Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft). Our entire Ama Dablam team plus our Everest Base Camp trekkers touched down in Lukla at about 2,900 meters in, yeah, just beautiful weather with excellent views of the mountains to the north. We had a great view of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) just before we touched down.

Then we hiked to Phakding (2610m/8,562ft). We’ve had a relaxing evening here with a walk up to the monastery above town. We just wrapped up dinner and we’re looking forward to a nice peaceful night, with the sound of the Dudh Koshi River below us.

We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Inbound to Lukla. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Climbers Jocelyn, Serge, Stephane and Alix after touching down in Lukla! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Walking to Phakding. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Visiting the monastery above Phakding. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam climber, Stephane en route to the helicopter pad. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

October 21, 2022/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2022

Ama Dablam Expedition Underway!

The 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition has officially begun! The team all arrived in Kathmandu today, excited for the journey ahead. After arriving at the Yak and Yeti hotel, our team held a gear check and orientation to go over details of the expedition. With good weather tomorrow, the team will fly to Lukla and continue on their way towards Ama Dablam. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in from Kathmandu with todays dispatch:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition 2022 – today is October 20th.

The team is all in Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft)! We had our gear checks today, had an orientation, talked through logistics, the itinerary and just finished our team dinner! Everyone’s feeling good and pumped to fly up to the Khumbu Valley tomorrow to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft), and start our trek along the way to base camp. So fingers crossed for good flying weather tomorrow morning! Hopefully we’ll be in Lukla for breakfast and on our way.

We’ll check in soon!

Gear check at the Yak and Yeti hotel – the climbers classic!

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison and guide, Terray Sylvester picking up the Ama Dablam climbing permits!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

October 20, 2022/2 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2021 - Private

Ama Dablam Summit!

Yesterday our private team on Ama Dablam reached the summit with a clear sky and calm winds. They had the whole mountain to themselves and savored the views from up on the summit of the surrounding peaks Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and many others.

It’s been a pleasure to follow their smooth progress during the past 2 weeks, they had great route conditions and weather throughout the expedition. We are very proud of them all for their safe and successful climb of Ama Dablam! Way to go team!

For climbers interested in learning more about our private expeditions please contact our office.

December 8, 2021/0 Comments/by Kurt

Ama Dablam 2021

Madison Mountaineering 2021 Ama Dablam Summiteers List

We are pleased to announce the following team members successfully obtained the summit of Ama Dablam (6,812 m / 22,349 ft) on November 8, 2021:

#	Name	Country
1	Mr. Garrett Madison	USA
2	Mr. Jonathan Eakes	USA
3	Mr. Morgan Hawes	USA
4	Mr. Gautam Shine	USA
5	Mr. James “J.B.” Waterman	USA
6	Mr. Aang Phurba Sherpa	Nepal
7	Mr. Kam Dorjee Sherpa	Nepal
8	Mr. Siddhi Ghising	Nepal
9	Mr. Fur Lakpa Sherpa	Nepal
10	Mr. Tenzing Sherpa	Nepal

November 9, 2021/0 Comments/by Kurt

Ama Dablam 2021

Team Safely Back in Base Camp

2021 Madison Mountaineering team and friends on the summit of Ama Dablam

With 100% summit success, the team is back in base camp celebrating, and getting ready to head back to Kathmandu. Garrett provides the recap and a ton of awesome photos of their summit day:

Hello, this is Garrett caling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team here in Nepal. Today’s November 9th and yesterday we reached the top of Ama Dablam.

Beautiful morning! We summited with 100% success, all four of our climbers plus myself and Aang Phurba and our Sherpa team made it to the top of Ama Dablam!

We got down safe and some of our members continued down to base camp and the rest of us were down today. We are looking forward to starting the trek out tomorrow to make our way back to Lukla and then Kathmandu.

We are feeling so fortunate and lucky that we had a beautiful summit day, great weather, and great route conditions up there and all of our team made the summit and made it down safely.