Tag Archive for: Khumbu Glacier

Heading up soon!

Mount Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition teams are turning in for the night, packed and ready to begin their next acclimatization rotation! The team plans to climb all the way up to Camp 3 over the course of the next few days, building acclimatization and putting their skills to the test along the way as they navigate new terrain on their way to the higher camps. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition team.

Today is May 2nd and we are heading up tonight to start our rotation to the higher camps! We’re going to head up the Khumbu Icefall, spend a couple of nights at Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), and then head up towards Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), spend at least a couple of nights up there, try to touch Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) for further acclimatization and skills practice, and then head on down to base camp.

(We’re) looking forward to getting up high on the mountain and putting our skills to the test here in the icefall, and also getting some bigger and better acclimatization, hopefully some great views up there.

So, all is well here at base camp! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Getting ready for another rotation

Todays training grounds.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest–Lhotse expedition team got back to work today, heading out into the Khumbu Glacier to continue sharpening their skills for the terrain that they’ll face here soon! With their next rotation coming up in the next few days, they’ll leave their base camp, head into the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 and beyond. Everyone is doing great, feeling strong, and about ready to go! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team up here at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft).

Today, we went out and trained, did ladder practice here on the ice towers near base camp, lower Khumbu Glacier. We also had some vertical fixed-lines for ascending-descending, and just dialing our skills and technique, getting ready for our first foray up through the Khumbu Icefall!

Everyone did great today! The team is enjoying our time up here at base camp, good meals, good rest, and lots of movies, and getting organized and ready for our first trip up to the higher camps.

So, all is well here at base camp! We’ll check in soon.

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with the team (photo by Susan Agar)

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with the team (photo by Susan Agar)

Descending fixed-lines in the lower Khumbu Glacier (photo by Susan Agar)

Descending fixed-lines in the lower Khumbu Glacier (photo by Susan Agar)

One of team members navigating the skill course (photo by Susan Agar)

One of team members navigating the skill course (photo by Susan Agar)

Practicing ladder crossing near our base camp (photo by Conan Bliss)

Practicing ladder crossing near our base camp (photo by Conan Bliss)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Camp 2 – Rest Day

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Following a full day yesterday, the team took a rest day today, enjoying good weather, food, and rest. The climbing has been smooth thus far and everyone is looking forward to the move up to Camp 3 tomorrow! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. We are up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) and everyone is doing well!

Yesterday, we climbed up from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) through the Khumbu Icefall, across Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), and up to Camp 2 here. Everyone is great. We have really good weather, good route conditions and got into Camp 2 in the afternoon.

It’ll be a nice restful day, dinner, and good night’s sleep. So, today we’re just resting. Our Sherpa team is up now on the Lhotse Face at Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), setting up our tent platforms and getting things ready for us to move up to Camp 3  tomorrow. So the plan is move up to Camp 3 on the 21st and the weather looks good! It looks like some calm days ahead, so we are excited for the forecast and moving up the mountain to give Everest and Lhotse our best shot!

So, we’ll check in soon. All is well here on Mount Everest!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Push – Camp 2

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Good news from the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition… The team has safely and successfully made it through the Khumbu Icefall and settled into their tents for the night at Camp 2! Good weather and route conditions made for smooth climbing through the icefall and into the Western Cwm. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checked in with this brief update from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:

We all made it up to camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), nice weather and good conditions!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Rotation Delayed

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

After an alpine start to their day, the team is back in Everest Base Camp (EBC) due to a collapse in the icefall. Our team is all safe and back to their beds, with hopes that the route gets reopened soon, so that they can move up the mountain tomorrow. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this brief update from EBC:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team. Today is May 18th, it’s about 2:30 in the morning here at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft). We set out two or three hours ago for our first rotation to move up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), but after leaving base camp and just about getting into the icefall, we encountered some climbers coming back down who had tried to go up, and had encountered a collapse in the icefall where the route was broken about half the way up.

So, we’re going to rest today and hopefully the icefall doctors can get up there and repair that section of the route that’s broken, and then our plan is to go again tomorrow. So, one day behind our anticipated schedule, but everyone’s doing well here! Good practice, good dry run this morning, looking forward to getting some sleep and then going for it again tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Go Time!

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison teaching the team how to use our oxygen system. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

All the training and preparation is done, and there’s only one thing left to do! The team is settled into their base camp homes for a few more hours of shut eye before they depart out of base camp, and once again, onto the mountain. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison lays out todays plan as the team gets an alpine start in just a few short hours:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. Today is May 17th and tonight we are starting our summit rotation, heading up from Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). We’re departing in a few hours time, around 1:00 AM. Hopefully we’ll have a smooth climb up through the Khumbu Icefall and get up to Camp 2 mid day.

So, we’re looking forward to kicking things off here! The weather looks great, crowds have thinned, we’ve done all of our training and preparation, and we’re ready to go! So, very excited to be headed up the mountain and attempting to summit Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse.

Guide, Scott Webster and climber, Stevie Hornik. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Scott Webster and climber, Stevie Hornik. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Danah Al Ali practicing technical skills near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Danah Al Ali practicing technical skills near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Eva Perglerova ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Eva Perglerova ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rich Draves practicing ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rich Draves practicing ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Stevie Hornik and Peter Horsman practicing with oxygen equipment. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Stevie Hornik and Peter Horsman practicing with oxygen equipment. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Erwin Visser and Rich Draves practicing with oxygen equipment under the instruction of Garrett Madison. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Erwin Visser and Rich Draves practicing with oxygen equipment under the instruction of Garrett Madison. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit rotation set to start!

Guide, Cacho Beiza helping climbers, Rick Irvine and Serge Larouche polish their technical skills on the Khumbu Glacier near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Here we go! With good weather in the forecast, technical trainings complete, and acclimatization done, the team is primed and ready to make their summit push! The team has one more day of rest and preparation before they, once again, venture through the Khumbu Icefall and up the mountain. Only this time, with plans to go for the summit! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition. Today is May 16th and we are preparing to head up soon to start our summit rotation!

Today, we did a little training review, went for a short hike, went over our oxygen systems and talked through what to expect on the summit push! Tomorrow, we’re going to rest and organize our final equipment, and then plan to head up tomorrow night, about 24 hours from now to start our summit rotation.

We’re looking at May 23rd for our potential Everest summit date. So, fingers crossed the weather holds, the conditions are good, and we get lucky! We’re excited, this is what we’ve been working for all year and we’re looking forward to get the climb underway.

Climber, Rick Irvine training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza helping climbers, Rick Irvine and Serge Larouche polish their technical skills on the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Cacho Beiza helping climbers, Rick Irvine and Serge Larouche polish their technical skills on the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Serge Larouche training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Serge Larouche training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Wrapping up the second rotation!

The "first wave" team testing out their down suits in Camp 2 at 21,300'. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

After several days and nights spent above the Khumbu Icefall in the Western Cwm, the Madison Mountaineering team’s second acclimatization rotation is coming to a close! With a few days of rest and relaxation ahead, the team can start to look forward to their summit push. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is May 5th.

This morning our first wave of Everest and Lhotse climbers wrapped up their second acclimatization foray on the mountain. They spent three nights at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), climbed up toward the Lhotse face one day, and then this morning we returned back down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). It was absolutely beautiful weather for that descent and we had great conditions as we descended through the Khumbu Icefall, which is in really excellent shape this year!

Meanwhile, the second wave of our Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers are at Camp 2. They moved from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) to Camp 2 today, they’ll spend several nights there acclimatizing, and then descend back to base camp. If weather and route conditions allow, then some of those climbers will head up to Nuptse as well!

So, all is well here in base camp! Tomorrow, our first wave of climbers will start their drop back in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We’ll fly down the valley via helicopter to rest and relax, and prepare for our summit push. We’ll be in touch!

Morning light on Pumori as the "first wave" moved to Camp 2. (Photo: terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Pumori as the “first wave” moved to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, in the Khumbu Icefall on the way to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, in the Khumbu Icefall on the way to Camp 2. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Peter Horsman, and the "first wave" team descending out of the Western Cwm toward base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Peter Horsman, and the “first wave” team descending out of the Western Cwm toward base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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On to the second rotation!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The second rotation for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse expeditions is underway in the Himalayas! The first of our teams to ascend through the icefall have successfully reached Camp 2, and our second team will make their first voyage into the icefall in a few hours time. In an effort to further acclimatize before their summit push, the teams plan to work further up the mountain before returning to base camp in a few days. With good weather, our Nuptse climbers will make an attempt on the dramatic looking peak that towers above Everest Base Camp below. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team. Today is Tuesday, May 2nd.

Early this morning our first wave of climbers left base camp (5364m/17,598ft) to climb up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) along with guides Terray Sylvester, Scott Webster and Aang Phurba Sherpa. Our second wave of climbers is leaving tonight along with myself and Cacho to climb up from base camp to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). (We’ll) spend a couple of nights at Camp 1 and then proceed on to Camp 2.

All of our climbers and teams will be up high the next few days acclimatizing, getting familiar with the route, and hopefully getting some great views up high of Everest! We’ll also try to go for Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) with our Nuptse climbers if conditions are good. It looks like high winds in the forecast, it’s been snowing the last few days, but hopefully the weather will be improving!

So, all is well here on Mount Everest and we’re excited to get climbing underway!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Rest at 17,500 feet!

Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

With the collective team all together in Everest Base Camp (EBC), the team spent the majority of today resting up, with an acclimatization hike to get their bodies moving! With the second rotation coming, the team will continue to rest and will spend some more time practicing technical skills in the neighboring Khumbu Glacier to keep their mind and skills sharp before heading further up the mountain. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from EBC:

Hello! It’s Friday, April 28th. This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition!

Today we had a nice, restful day in base camp (5364m/17,598ft)! All of our climbers are here; our team that did the first rotation up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) was taking it easy here in base camp, and our team that climbed Lobuche peak (6119m/20,075ft) recently, and just arrived in base camp yesterday was taking it easy. Although, we did go for an acclimatization hike today just up above base camp. (We) had some great views, nice opportunity to stretch the legs, get some oxygen in the body. We’re just enjoying base camp!

We’re going to start doing a little more technical review over the next few days and start gearing up for our next rotation up to Camps 1 and 2, and touching Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft)!

It’s great weather at the moment, although there is a little snow in the forecast the next few days. But, the team’s doing well and we’re happy to be here! We’re looking forward to more good days ahead here on Mount Everest.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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