Tag Archive for: Karakoram

Relishing on the Abruzzi Ridge

Evening light on the panorama of peaks and ice fields visible from camp 2 on the Abruzzi Ridge. (📸: @terray_s)

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team is settled into camp 2 for the night and plans to move up to camp 3 tomorrow! There has been good weather so far and the team hopes for good route conditions as they make their way higher up the mountain. Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team – today is Tuesday, July 19th!

Beautiful day here in K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft) and today the team climbed up to camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft). They reported good conditions, a lot of climbers up on the route – mostly below them because they got an early start! The sherpa team got up to camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft), and then fixed lines part way up to camp 4 today (7681m/25,200ft). So, things are going well up on the Abruzzi route! Hopefully the team will climb up to camp 3 tomorrow and the sherpas will be able to continue fixing up to camp 4.

All is well here. It looks like good weather in the forecast, so fingers crossed for good route conditions high up on K2!

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa climbing on the Abruzzi Ridge. (📸: @terray_s)

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa climbing on the Abruzzi Ridge. (📸: @terray_s)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Rotation is Underway!

A sunny afternoon at Camp 1 with Broad Peak across the valley. (📸: @terray_s)

The summit rotation is underway on K2 for the Madison Mountaineering team! The team has reached camp 1 and plans to push on to camp 2 tomorrow. Meanwhile, our sherpa team is planning to move up to camp 3 tomorrow, and start working on fixing the ropes above camp 3 in the coming days. Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team – today is Monday, July 18th.

Today our team started their summit rotation – so climbers left this morning at 3 AM from base camp (4968m/16,300ft), we saw them off. They arrived in camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) around 10 AM. They reported good conditions and they’re all tucked in at camp 1 for the night, planning to head up to camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) tomorrow.

Our fixing team of sherpa are up at camp 2 at the moment and they’re planning to head to camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) tomorrow – so that’s four sherpa’s from our team working on the fixing project. Currently the ropes are not in above camp 3, so they have some work to do and also planning to work with some sherpa’s from a few other teams.

I’m in base camp reporting, all is well! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Rotation to Start Tomorrow!

Clouds clearing from K2 this morning. Today the stormy weather finally passed and sunny skies arrived! (📸: @terray_s)

Tomorrow is the day the team has been waiting for since finishing their first rotation, 10 days ago. Tomorrow morning, they will start moving towards Camp 1, which marks the start of their summit rotation! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition – it’s July 17th.

Today, the clouds finally cleared from K2 here in the valley. We enjoyed sunny weather here in base camp (4968m/16,300ft) all day, which was great! It gave us a good solar charge to get our devices all powered up for the climb to come, do laundry, and take care of all our last minute to-do items before we start our summit push.

So the plan right now is to wake up early tomorrow morning and start heading up to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft).

We’re just wrapping up dinner here, enjoyed some beautiful alpenglow on the summit, and we’re looking forward to getting up higher! We’ll be in touch.

A team photo this evening before dinner - and before our climbers start their summit push!

A team photo this evening before dinner – and before our climbers start their summit push!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Sunshine has Returned to Base Camp!

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, and climber, Nelly Attar enjoying todays sunshine in base camp. (📸: @terray_s)

After a few days of poor weather, the team was excited to welcome sunshine back to base camp! The team continued to prepare by distributing dehydrated meals and other materials, as their summit push is right around the corner! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with todays dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering 2022 K2 expedition – it’s July 15th.

Today, we had a lot of sunshine here in base camp (4968m/16,300ft) which was a welcome change! Took showers, did some laundry – we also distributed dehydrated food, oatmeal, and other material for our summit push which is coming up soon. And we soaked up some vitamin D!

It’s just about dinner now. We’ll head into the dining tent soon and meanwhile, we’re enjoying some nice alpenglow on the summit of K2, which we haven’t seen for a few days.

So, everyone’s in good spirits and healthy here! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Nelly Attar with tonight's dessert: fresh fruit salad at 5,000 meters!

Nelly Attar with tonight’s dessert: fresh fruit salad at 5,000 meters!

Evening light on the summit of K2. (📸: @terray_s)

Evening light on the summit of K2. (📸: @terray_s)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Snow Today – Sunshine Tomorrow!

K2 base camp on a sunny afternoon earlier this season, with Broad Peak rising on the left and Chogolisa shrouded in clouds in the distance. (📸: @terray_s)

While K2 base camp saw snow today, the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition teams spirits are high and hopeful for good weather on the way! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with todays dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition – it’s July 14th.

Today was a snowy day here in base camp (4968m/16,300ft). We had another rest day – we kept ourselves busy by hiking around base camp and the Godwin-Austen Glacier, visiting with other teams, and enjoying lots of good food! So, we’re about to sit down to dinner and then we will watch a movie.

The forecast is calling for some sunshine tomorrow, so we’re looking forward to that and hopefully getting back on the mountain soon.

We’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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The Calm Before the Climbing!

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with climber, Nelly Attar during our oxygen training today. (📸: @terray_s)

The team looks forward to the coming days when they can move higher up K2! In the meantime, the team is preparing and staying ready by doing oxygen and strength trainings, resting, and eating nutritious meals. Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition climber, Nelly Attar, checks in with todays dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hi Everyone! This is Nelly Attar tuning in from K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft) – today is July 13.

We have a few more days to go before hopefully we move higher up. Today we had some oxygen training – it was really nice and informative! Krisli is currently making some spaghetti, Cacho is cutting some ham, Garrett is reading on and off – it’s been a nice and chill day. During our lunch break, I actually had some friends come over and we did some strength training and I prepared some manakish for them. Manakish is a Lebanese breakfast – the best breakfast!

Everyone’s doing well, we’re all healthy, and we’re looking forward to moving higher up soon. Goodbye, everyone!

An exercise session lead by Nelly Attar in our Mountain Hardwear Space Station Dome.

An exercise session lead by Nelly Attar in our Mountain Hardwear Space Station Dome.

Guides, Cacho Beiza and Terray Sylvester during todays oxygen training. (📸: Nelly Attar)

Guides, Cacho Beiza and Terray Sylvester during todays oxygen training. (📸: Nelly Attar)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Keeping it Fun in Base Camp!

Our climber, Nelly Attar celebrating a successful ascent while ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

The Madison Mountaineering team is making the most of their time in K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft)! Today, the team went ice climbing and have a fun evening ahead, with a good dinner and a movie. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition – it’s July 12th.

Today we had another rest day here in base camp while we’re still waiting for high winds to taper off on the mountain. But, we had sunny skies today so we took advantage of them and we went ice climbing on some of the ice towers here on the Godwin-Austen Glacier, right next to base camp. That felt great – it was a lot of fun to swing the tools! We also held a second session of our medical and rescue skills refresher training for our Sherpa and Balti teams. So now, a few clouds have come in and we’re just getting ready to sit down for dinner, and we’ll probably follow that up with a movie as usual.

So, all is well here in base camp and we’ll be in touch!

Climber, Krisli tops out on an ice tower near base camp while ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

Climber, Krisli tops out on an ice tower near base camp while ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with Krisli while ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with Krisli while ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

Krisli ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

Krisli ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

Nelly swinging the ice tools. (📸: @terray_s)

Nelly swinging the ice tools. (📸: @terray_s)

Guide, Cacho Beiza teaching emergency medical skills to members of our sherpa and Balti staff. (📸: @terray_s)

Guide, Cacho Beiza teaching emergency medical skills to members of our sherpa and Balti staff. (📸: @terray_s)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Comforts of Home in K2 Base Camp!

K2 from base camp (📸: @terray_s).

It was another good day in K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft) spent resting, going for a walk, and eating some “epic meals!” Madison Mountaineering climber, Nelly Attar, checks in with todays dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello, everyone! This is Nelly Attar from Madison Mountaineering – today is July 11.

We spent the day at base camp resting, making some food – we had three epic meals! In between we went for a nice walk. It was pretty cloudy and windy in the morning, but then the weather started to clear up and it’s much nicer now. We are currently in the process of selecting a movie – I’m going to be selecting a scary movie for tonight!

That is all! Everyone’s healthy – everyone’s good. We’re getting stronger – we’re getting ready to move up soon, and that’s it. Sending you all lots of love and snow. Goodbye!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Celebrating the Eid Holiday!

People gathered in our base camp for today's Eid celebration.

Today, the team celebrated the Eid holiday in Pakistan, by hosting a party in which close to 30 people came! Aside from the celebrating the team did, they’ve stayed busy by exploring the sights and surrounding glaciers around base camp. Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition – it’s July 10th.

The last two days have been rest days here in base camp. Right now, the winds are high on the mountain, so we’re waiting for a summit window, resting. Yesterday, some of us went for hikes around base camp, down to Broad Peak base camp, and some of us also went up the Savoia Glacier part way which wraps around to the west ridge of K2 and offers some really beautiful views.

Today, was the Eid holiday here in Pakistan! So, we hosted a party – about 30 people came to our camp here in base camp! It was really nice.

So, it looks like tomorrow will be another rest day. We’ll probably do some ice climbing on the Godwin-Austen Glacier.

Just resting, staying healthy, spirits are high – so all is well! Eid Mubarack! We’ll be in touch.

Checking out melt ponds on the Savoia Glacier (📸: @terray_s).

Checking out melt ponds on the Savoia Glacier (📸: @terray_s).

Guide, Cacho Beiza walking with our climber, Krisli, on the Savoia Glacier yesterday, July 9th (📸: @terray_s).

Guide, Cacho Beiza walking with our climber, Krisli, on the Savoia Glacier yesterday, July 9th (📸: @terray_s).

Climber, Nelly, slicing cake during today's Eid celebration.

Climber, Nelly, slicing cake during today’s Eid celebration.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Rescue and Technical Skill Review

Members of our sherpa team practicing moving a victim in a rescue litter near base camp today (📸: @terray_s)

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team practiced rescue and technical skills today while they continue to wait for a weather window to make their summit push. Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch from K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft):

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition – it’s July 8th.

Today, we had another rest day in base camp while we wait for a weather window for our summit push. Beautiful weather – we took the time to do our review session with technical skills and rescue skills with our Sherpa and Balti teams. We try to do one of those every expedition and we’ll probably continue it in the coming days.

The weather is beautiful and the whole team is healthy. So, we’re looking forward to getting back on the mountain.

We’ll be in touch!

Guide, Cacho Beiza, discussing technical and rescue skills during a refresher session with our sherpa and Balti staff in base camp today (📸: @terray_s)

Guide, Cacho Beiza, discussing technical and rescue skills during a refresher session with our sherpa and Balti staff in base camp today (📸: @terray_s)

Guide, Cacho Beiza, reviewing how to use our rescue litter in base camp today (📸: @terray_s)

Guide, Cacho Beiza, reviewing how to use our rescue litter in base camp today (📸: @terray_s)

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa, teaching during the skills clinic (📸: @terray_s)

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa, teaching during the skills clinic (📸: @terray_s)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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