Tag Archive for: Karakoram

Keeping it Fun in Base Camp!

Our climber, Nelly Attar celebrating a successful ascent while ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

The Madison Mountaineering team is making the most of their time in K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft)! Today, the team went ice climbing and have a fun evening ahead, with a good dinner and a movie. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition – it’s July 12th.

Today we had another rest day here in base camp while we’re still waiting for high winds to taper off on the mountain. But, we had sunny skies today so we took advantage of them and we went ice climbing on some of the ice towers here on the Godwin-Austen Glacier, right next to base camp. That felt great – it was a lot of fun to swing the tools! We also held a second session of our medical and rescue skills refresher training for our Sherpa and Balti teams. So now, a few clouds have come in and we’re just getting ready to sit down for dinner, and we’ll probably follow that up with a movie as usual.

So, all is well here in base camp and we’ll be in touch!

Climber, Krisli tops out on an ice tower near base camp while ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

Climber, Krisli tops out on an ice tower near base camp while ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with Krisli while ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with Krisli while ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

Krisli ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

Krisli ice climbing today. (📸: @terray_s)

Nelly swinging the ice tools. (📸: @terray_s)

Nelly swinging the ice tools. (📸: @terray_s)

Guide, Cacho Beiza teaching emergency medical skills to members of our sherpa and Balti staff. (📸: @terray_s)

Guide, Cacho Beiza teaching emergency medical skills to members of our sherpa and Balti staff. (📸: @terray_s)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Comforts of Home in K2 Base Camp!

K2 from base camp (📸: @terray_s).

It was another good day in K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft) spent resting, going for a walk, and eating some “epic meals!” Madison Mountaineering climber, Nelly Attar, checks in with todays dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello, everyone! This is Nelly Attar from Madison Mountaineering – today is July 11.

We spent the day at base camp resting, making some food – we had three epic meals! In between we went for a nice walk. It was pretty cloudy and windy in the morning, but then the weather started to clear up and it’s much nicer now. We are currently in the process of selecting a movie – I’m going to be selecting a scary movie for tonight!

That is all! Everyone’s healthy – everyone’s good. We’re getting stronger – we’re getting ready to move up soon, and that’s it. Sending you all lots of love and snow. Goodbye!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Celebrating the Eid Holiday!

People gathered in our base camp for today's Eid celebration.

Today, the team celebrated the Eid holiday in Pakistan, by hosting a party in which close to 30 people came! Aside from the celebrating the team did, they’ve stayed busy by exploring the sights and surrounding glaciers around base camp. Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition – it’s July 10th.

The last two days have been rest days here in base camp. Right now, the winds are high on the mountain, so we’re waiting for a summit window, resting. Yesterday, some of us went for hikes around base camp, down to Broad Peak base camp, and some of us also went up the Savoia Glacier part way which wraps around to the west ridge of K2 and offers some really beautiful views.

Today, was the Eid holiday here in Pakistan! So, we hosted a party – about 30 people came to our camp here in base camp! It was really nice.

So, it looks like tomorrow will be another rest day. We’ll probably do some ice climbing on the Godwin-Austen Glacier.

Just resting, staying healthy, spirits are high – so all is well! Eid Mubarack! We’ll be in touch.

Checking out melt ponds on the Savoia Glacier (📸: @terray_s).

Checking out melt ponds on the Savoia Glacier (📸: @terray_s).

Guide, Cacho Beiza walking with our climber, Krisli, on the Savoia Glacier yesterday, July 9th (📸: @terray_s).

Guide, Cacho Beiza walking with our climber, Krisli, on the Savoia Glacier yesterday, July 9th (📸: @terray_s).

Climber, Nelly, slicing cake during today's Eid celebration.

Climber, Nelly, slicing cake during today’s Eid celebration.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Rescue and Technical Skill Review

Members of our sherpa team practicing moving a victim in a rescue litter near base camp today (📸: @terray_s)

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team practiced rescue and technical skills today while they continue to wait for a weather window to make their summit push. Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch from K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft):

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition – it’s July 8th.

Today, we had another rest day in base camp while we wait for a weather window for our summit push. Beautiful weather – we took the time to do our review session with technical skills and rescue skills with our Sherpa and Balti teams. We try to do one of those every expedition and we’ll probably continue it in the coming days.

The weather is beautiful and the whole team is healthy. So, we’re looking forward to getting back on the mountain.

We’ll be in touch!

Guide, Cacho Beiza, discussing technical and rescue skills during a refresher session with our sherpa and Balti staff in base camp today (📸: @terray_s)

Guide, Cacho Beiza, discussing technical and rescue skills during a refresher session with our sherpa and Balti staff in base camp today (📸: @terray_s)

Guide, Cacho Beiza, reviewing how to use our rescue litter in base camp today (📸: @terray_s)

Guide, Cacho Beiza, reviewing how to use our rescue litter in base camp today (📸: @terray_s)

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa, teaching during the skills clinic (📸: @terray_s)

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa, teaching during the skills clinic (📸: @terray_s)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Puja Ceremony and Preparation

Members of our Sherpa team making offerings during our puja ceremony today (📸: @terray_s)

Today, the team had their Puja ceremony in base camp (4968m/16,300ft) and continues to rest up before they make their way back up the mountain. Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 Expedition.

Today is July 7th and today we had our Puja ceremony in base camp. After lunch, the weather cleared up and our Sherpa team, our Pakistani team, and all of our climbers gathered around our Puja shrine. We had a wonderful ceremony asking the mountain for safe passage. Afterwards, we had a little dance party, celebration, then had a nice dinner and just finished a movie!

So, everyone’s doing well in base camp. We’re resting lots, eating, and just taking it easy – waiting for some of this bad weather to pass and looking forward to good weather on the way!

All is well here on K2.

Our Pakistani staff and members of our Sherpa team providing the music for the post-puja dancing today (📸: @terray_s)

Our Pakistani staff and members of our Sherpa team providing the music for the post-puja dancing today (📸: @terray_s)

Climber, Krisli, receiving a blessing from Dorje Gyaljen Sherpa at today's puja (📸: @terray_s)

Climber, Krisli, receiving a blessing from Dorje Gyaljen Sherpa at today’s puja (📸: @terray_s)

Our climber, Nelly, sporting a tsampa (roasted barley flour) "mustache" during today's puja. The mustache is a blessing to guarantee that the recipient lives to old age (📸: @terray_s)

Our climber, Nelly, sporting a tsampa (roasted barley flour) “mustache” during today’s puja. The mustache is a blessing to guarantee that the recipient lives to old age (📸: @terray_s)

Dorje Gyaljen Sherpa leading today's puja. Dorje is a very strong Himalayan climber and member of our Sherpa team, he's also trained as a Buddhist lama (📸: @terray_s)

Dorje Gyaljen Sherpa leading today’s puja. Dorje is a very strong Himalayan climber and member of our Sherpa team, he’s also trained as a Buddhist lama (📸: @terray_s)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Back in K2 Base Camp

Photo from Madison Mountaineering Photo Archive

The team has completed their first rotation on K2, and are now resting up and enjoying themselves in base camp (4968m/16,300ft). Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 Expedition Team. Today is Wednesday, July 6th and the team is all back down in base camp.

The team had a great second night at Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) completing the first rotation – it was two nights at Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft), two nights at Camp 2, and a night at Advanced Base Camp (5303m/17,400ft), so a total of five nights up on the mountain. We’re all back in base camp and had a great afternoon – showers, laundry, a nice dinner, and a movie! So, looking forward to a good nights rest. Everyone’s doing well here!

Tomorrow, some of our sherpa team will do a trip up to Camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) with some oxygen. But, we’re all doing well here on K2. It’s been cloudy today and yesterday, but hopefully some good weather’s coming tomorrow and the next day. Looking forward to hopefully some more good weather in the future!

All is well and we’ll check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Acclimatization at Camp 2: Active Rest and Beautiful Views

Climber Krisli Melesk above Camp 1.

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team has settled into Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft). The team plans to take advantage of the good weather by continuing to acclimatize before heading back to base camp (4968m/16,300ft) to conclude the first rotation. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from K2:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition – it’s Monday, July 4th.

Today our team had a great climb from Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) here on K2. We’re at about 6,600 meters – the weather is fantastic, very clear! We had great views of the Baltoro Glacier system, Masherbrum, Broad Peak, and all the other famous mountains around us. Tomorrow our plan is to take an active rest day – we’ll hike up to the base of the Black Pyramid and then descend back to camp and relax in our tents. The following day we’ll descend down to base camp (4968m/16,300ft).

So, all is well and we will be in touch!

One of our tents in Camp 2.

One of our tents in Camp 2.

Guide, Cacho Beiza approaching Camp 1.

Guide, Cacho Beiza approaching Camp 1.

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa approaching Camp 2 with climber Nelly Attar.

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa approaching Camp 2 with climber Nelly Attar.

Climber Nelly Attar in Camp 2.

Climber Nelly Attar in Camp 2.

First light on the north pyramid of Broad Peak - seen from Camp 1.

First light on the north pyramid of Broad Peak – seen from Camp 1.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Camp 2 Tomorrow: Progress Continues on K2

Garrett and Nelly reviewing climbing techniques nearby K2 base camp

Both the climbers and sherpas are making great progress through their first rotation on K2! The climbers will head up to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) tomorrow, while the sherpas have fixed ropes all the way up to Camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft). Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s expedition dispatch from K2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team.

Today is July 3rd and all is well here on K2! Yesterday, our sherpa team made great progress and was able fix nearly all the way up to Camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) – up the Black Pyramid and beyond. The route’s in good condition up to that point. Our climbers went up to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) yesterday and are acclimatizing now, their second night, planning to head up to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) tomorrow.

Yesterday I came down from our first rotation with two members of our climbing team who have decided to head home. They flew out today by helicopter to Skardu (2220m/7,283ft) and will make their way to Islamabad tomorrow.

But everyone’s doing well here on K2, we’ve had great weather and are really happy about the rope fixing progress that our sherpa team made – looking forward to more climbing here in the future.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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First rotation is underway!

View of K2 and the Cesen route from hike to ABC

The K2 expedition team has arrived at advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft) and is preparing to move higher up the mountain to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) and Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) in the coming days as part of their first rotation. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with this brief update:

Just arrived in advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft), everyone is doing well. We are planning to climb from advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft) to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ready for higher places on K2!

Prayer flags hanging in base camp far below the summit of K2 (📸: @terray_s)

The team is ready to start the first rotation and begin making their way higher up on K2! This week, they plan to spend nights at advanced base camp, Camp 1, and Camp 2.  Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s expedition dispatch from base camp on K2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team – today is June 30th.

We had a good day here in base camp (4968m/16,300ft) getting organized sorting gear for our first rotation. We’re planning to head up tomorrow to advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft) and the following day up to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) for a couple of nights and then up to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) for a few nights.

Everything’s looking good here – the mountain’s in great shape, the weather’s good, the team’s doing really well. We did some training and everybody’s feeling solid, so we’re looking forward to getting up higher on the mountain, having some good views, and then back here in base camp about a week from today.

All is well here on K2, check in soon.

Our climbing team posing for a photo during an acclimatization hike on June 29, with the spectacular icefalls of K2 behind them. (📸: @terray_s)

Our climbing team posing for a photo during an acclimatization hike on June 29, with the spectacular icefalls of K2 behind them. (📸: @terray_s)

Expedition Leader Garrett Madison working with climber Piers B. during a skills refresher session on June 28. The ice pinnacles on the Godwin Austen Glacier next to base camp are a great venue for reviewing fixed line climbing techniques. (📸: @terray_s)

Expedition Leader Garrett Madison working with climber Piers B. during a skills refresher session on June 28. The ice pinnacles on the Godwin Austen Glacier next to base camp are a great venue for reviewing fixed line climbing techniques. (📸: @terray_s)

Our climbers on an acclimatization hike above the Godwin Austen Glacier near K2 base camp on June 29. (📸: @terray_s)

Our climbers on an acclimatization hike above the Godwin Austen Glacier near K2 base camp on June 29. (📸: @terray_s)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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