Tag Archive for: Himalayas

Manaslu Team Primed for First Rotation

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (📸: Terray Sylvester)

The team welcomed in more climbers to the Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition today! Now fully assembled, the team will continue their acclimatization efforts in the next few days, before ascending to Camp 1. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in from Manaslu base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Manaslu (8156m/26,759ft) expedition – it’s Thursday, September 15th.

Today our second wave of climbers arrived at base camp (4859m/15,944ft) – they hiked up from Samagaun (3530m/11,581ft) in slightly rainy weather. So, we’re looking forward to starting the acclimatizing from here, and then heading up to Camp 1 (5700m, 18,700ft) in not too many days.

So, all is well here in base camp and we’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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More Strong Climbers Joining the Expedition!

Mules laden with supplies on the trail to base camp. (📸: Terray Sylvester)

Today, our second wave of climbers made the helicopter flight from Kathmandu to Samagaun – we’re excited to have them join us in base camp in the next few days! The team already settled into base camp is resting and preparing for their move up to Camp 1. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in from Manaslu base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Manaslu (8156m/26,759ft) expedition – it’s September 14th.

Today, our second wave of climbers took a helicopter from Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) to Samagaun (3530m/11,581ft). They plan to acclimatize there and then move up to base camp (4859m/15,944ft), hopefully soon. Meanwhile in base camp, our other climber has been resting after acclimatizing for the move to Camp 1 (5700m, 18,700ft).

So, all is well here! We just finished dinner, are watching a movie and are heading to bed soon. We’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Resting Up at 15,000 Feet

Our Mountain Hardwear Space Station dome in Manaslu Base Camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition team took a rest day today in base camp as they continue to prepare for their climb in the coming days. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in from Manaslu base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Manaslu (8156m/26,759ft) expedition – it’s September 10th.

Today we took another rest day in base camp (4859m/15,944ft). It was sunny in the morning and then rained a bit in the afternoon. We just wrapped up dinner; we had some curried chicken, fresh vegetables, and then a strawberry cake for dessert. Then we watched Aquaman and we’re heading to bed now.

So, we’ll be in touch tomorrow from Manaslu!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Puja Ceremony at Manaslu Base Camp

Our climbing team, post-puja.

This morning the team was greeted with sunshine upon emerging from their tents, which they followed with a puja ceremony. The team came together to take part in this spiritual ceremony to ask the mountain for safe passage in their journey ahead, which is happening in the coming days! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in from Manaslu base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Manaslu (8156m/26,759ft) expedition – it’s September 9th.

Today, when we woke up the sun was shining so we started the day early with our pre-climb puja; that’s a way of asking the mountain permission for safe passage and it’s also a great way for the whole team to come together before a climb.

Now that that’s done, our sherpa team and our climbers will start moving up the mountain. We’ve spent the rest of the day getting our gear together for our sherpa team who will do a carry to Camp 1 (5700m, 18,700ft) tomorrow, then hopefully our climbers will start going to Camp 1 soon after that.

So now we’re just relaxing until dinner! We’re planning to watch National Treasure 2, the Nicholas Cage movie, after dinner.

All is well! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Preparing for the puja in our base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Preparing for the puja in our base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ngodup Lama leading todays puja. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ngodup Lama leading todays puja. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our team's climbing gear soaking up the blessings. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our team’s climbing gear soaking up the blessings. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa making an offering. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa making an offering. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Lakpa Sherpa receiving a tsampa mustache, a blessing for a long and healthy life. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Lakpa Sherpa receiving a tsampa mustache, a blessing for a long and healthy life. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Today's puja. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Today’s puja. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Full Day at Manaslu Base Camp!

The Madison Mountaineering Manaslu Base Camp, high above the clouds. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team had a great day today complete with technical skills training, beautiful weather, good food and a movie! Tomorrow, their preparation will continue with a puja ceremony. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in from Manaslu base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Manaslu (8156m/26,759ft) expedition – today is September 8th.

Today we woke up and had a great breakfast of french toast, bacon and fried eggs. Then, we hiked a little ways up above camp (4859m/15,944ft) to a good spot on the Manaslu Glacier to review technical skills. We worked on fixed line ascending and descending techniques, rappelling, and footwork.

The we returned to base camp, had lunch and have been relaxing since then. We’re just about to start dinner and then looking forward to a movie afterward.

So today was a great day; beautiful weather, sunny skies and we’re looking forward to our puja day tomorrow. All is well here! We’ll be in touch.

Mount Manaslu. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Mount Manaslu. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Nancy, hiking below Camp 1 with sirdar and guide Aang Phurba Sherpa. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Nancy, hiking below Camp 1 with sirdar and guide Aang Phurba Sherpa. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Good times and sunshine while reviewing technical skills! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Good times and sunshine while reviewing technical skills! Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Settling into Manaslu Base Camp

Photo from Madison Mountaineering archive. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Today, the Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition team continued to settle into their base camp and prepare for the days ahead! Inspiring views of Manaslu continue to keep spirits high, going into skills training on the glacier tomorrow. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini from Manaslu base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 [inaudible] – today is September 7th.

Today we took a rest day in camp (4859m/15,944ft); we did some laundry, finished getting moved into our tents, took some nice walks around camp with some views of Manaslu (8156m/26,759ft) starting to emerge above us [inaudible]. We watched the classic [inaudible] national treasure.

We’re just going to bed now and looking forward to some skills training on the glacier near camp tomorrow.

[Inaudible].

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Hello, Manaslu Base Camp!

Climbing towards base camp with Manaslu towering above. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Today, the Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition team continued their journey on up to base camp, ascending to 4859m/15,944ft! After setting up camp, they enjoyed lunch, the new views presented from their temporary home, and were just about to sit down for dinner. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with this brief update:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 [inaudible] – September 6th.

Today we had great weather for our [inaudible] camp. We left Samagaun (3530m/11,581ft) [inaudible] for most the hike and then [inaudible].

The team is doing well! We moved into our tents, had a nice lunch and we’re just about to sit down for dinner.

All is well here and we will be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Mount Everest 2017 Guide Billy Nugent

Mount Everest 2017 Guide Billy Nugent

Moved from the Chicago area to Washington in 1999 to attend the University of Puget Sound where he found the Cascade Mountains and ultimately climbing. Before starting out as a professional guide in 2005 he spent the previous several years completing his BS in chemistry, working as a fisherman in Alaska, and as a chemist in Seattle. And for the last ten years he’s been guiding a seasonal circuit that takes him from Argentina and Ecuador, to Alaska, and then back to Rainier and the North Cascades, with an occasional bonus trip to Mexico or Antarctica. Billy loves living outside and enjoys surfing, riding, climbing, and music in his spare time.

Resume:

Mt. Everest (3 expeditions)
Mt. Rainier (125+ summits via 6 routes)
Denali (9 expeditions)
Aconcagua (8 expeditions)
Vinson Massif (1 expedition)
Orizaba (2 expeditions)
Cotopaxi and Cayambe (8 expeditions)
Mt Baker (4 summits via 4 routes)
Mt. Adams (3 summits via 3 routes)
North Cascades (numerous alpine routes)

Certifications/Training:

Wilderness First Responder, CPR
Outdoor Emergency Care
AIARE Avalanche Level II
Leave No Trace Trainer
AMGA member and Rock Guide Course graduate

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Everest 2017 Guide Billy Nugent

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Everest 2017 Guide Billy Nugent

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Mount Everest 2017 summit success!!

Amazing news from Nepal, Mount Everest 2017 summit success!! This morning our entire climbing team reached the summit with clear conditions and light wind at 8848 meters. After snapping a few pictures our team is now making their descent back down to Camp 4. Congratulations to the following:

Guides: Garrett Madison, Conan Bliss, Billy Nugent

Climbers: JohnK, AlinaZ, AllanM, IngvildS, DrewM, EllenG

Sherpa: Ang Phurba, Lakpa Dendi, Nurbu Sherpa, Pasang Dawa, Pemba Sherpa, K.B. Thapa, Tsherine Bhote, Ming Dorjee, Shere Thapa, Chhombi Sherpa, Shamgbu Bhote, Kam Dorjee, Phurba Bhote

Once the team arrives back to Camp 4, a few will evaluate their conditions and make a decision on climbing Lhotse tonight with guides Garrett and Sid Pattison. Guide Geoff Schellens and JohnS successfully summited Lhotse this morning!! The conditions were beautiful today with clear skies and 360 views!

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Summit Sherpa fixing team delayed due to weather

Today we received news that the summit Sherpa fixing team will be descending down to base camp due to weather delays. With this information, guides Brent and Geoff made the descent to base camp this afternoon with Anders and John. Arriving back into base camp early evening. It is now being discussed among the main expedition teams at base camp that summit fixing will commence on the 16th and 17th based on current weather forecasts. Our guides and expedition leaders are pushing for as early a fixing as possible.

Now that the majority of the team is back at base camp we will enjoy some rest and relaxation together. Tomorrow morning our team in Namche will be helicoptering back to base camp after spending 4 nights at the Paradise Lodge. Arriving back to base camp this afternoon, Conan John and Allan will be boarding the same helicopter from base camp and travel down to Namche for a few days.  All team members are going to take advantage of a few personal days before summit rotation. Right now it sounds like the team will move up on the night of the 13th toward the summit. Variables such as changing weather forecasts and the fixing of both Mount Everest and Lhotse will determine when the team takes off.

Over the next few days the weather forecasts are calling for snow and light winds. We have been watching movies and enjoying the company of the many fascinating people here on Everest this season. Life is good!

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Dinner was on fire!

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summit Sherpa fixing

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summit Sherpa fixing

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summit Sherpa fixing

 

 

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