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The Everest summit ridge on May 23rd

Via sat phone from Camp IV on the South Col of Mount Everest, expedition leader and now 11-time summiter of Mount Everest, Garrett Madison provides the happy news:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition.  Today is May 23rd, it’s 7:30 PM in Nepal.  We are at Camp IV on Mount Everest’s South Col.

We had an amazing day.  We left around midnight on the 23rd and summited Mount Everest this morning.  It was a beautiful day!  It was clear, calm, and probably the nicest summit day I’ve had on Everest out of my 11 summits!

Our team of nine clients, four American western guides, and over 20 Nepal sherpas all made it to the top of Everest and back down safe.  So, we had a wonderful day!  It was beautiful – amazing views as far as the eye could see and we spent a long time at the summit.

Tonight, we have some climbers heading out for Lhotse.  In fact, one of our climbers, Kristin Harila, actually already summited Lhotse.  From Everest to Lhotse today in record time!  She is on her way down from the Lhotse summit now.

Big congrats to Kristin and to all the members of our team for making it up to the top of Everest today and back down to Camp IV safely.

We aren’t out of the woods yet; we have to get down to Camp II tomorrow.  We are going to wake up, pack, and be safe on the way down the Lhotse Face to Camp II.  But, we’re very happy that the weather forecast from Marc De Keyser worked out and we got a beautiful day here on the summit of Everest.  It couldn’t have been better!  We are very fortunate and are looking forward to a safe descent.

(photo:  Madison Mountaineering archives)

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Close up of Everest and Lhotse from Gokyo Ri

Our Everest base camp staff is in touch with the climbing team and is reporting the following May 23rd Everest summits (all times NPT):

  • 06:30 – Kristin H. / Aang Phurba Sherpa / Dawa Bhote
  • 08:30 – Kevin W. / Sid Pattison / Terray Sylvester / Phurba Ridar Bhote / Chhiring Bhote / Mingma Sherpa / Kul Bahadur Thapa Magar
  • 08:50 – Art M. / Pasang Bhote / Dawa Bhote
  • 09:15 – Cokie B. / Ronan M. / Mingma Dorjee Sherpa / Sange Sherpa / Pemba Sherpa / Lhakpa Bhote / Dawa Gyalgen Sherpa
  • 10:10 – Andrew H. / Kristin B. / Ben V. / Mark P. / Krisli M. / Rob Smith / Garrett Madison / Siddi Bahadur Tamang / Dawa Nupu Sherpa / Kam Dorjee Sherpa / Free Chhombi Sherpa / Diwas Sherpa / Tenzing Sherpa / Dorjee Sherpa

Total of 14 members and guides and 22 sherpa.

Congratulations to all the climbers and our entire 2021 Madison Mountaineering Everest staff!  Well done.  Wishing everyone a safe descent.

Official news to follow.

Photo of Mount Everest

We just received a sat phone updated from Garrett at the South Col.  It’s GO time!  Be sure to follow the summit push with our real-time location tracker:  https://madisonmountaineering.com/maps/everest-2021.  Godspeed team – get safely up and down.

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest team.  It is nearly midnight on May 23rd and we’re getting ready to head out and go for our summit attempt here on Mount Everest!

A little gusty up here but the winds are supposed to die down.  So we’re hoping the forecast holds true and we get some nice, calm winds up there today and a clear sky for a nice view.  We’re all excited to start our summit push and we’ve been training hard and prep’d for a long time.  So, this is the BIG night!

We’re gonna set off here shortly and we’ll check in when we get back.  Thanks!

(photo: Madison Mountaineering archives)

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Camp 4

Today our Everest/Lhotse team moved up from Camp III to Camp IV on the South Col.  Conditions were tough with the wind and snow, but everyone did great and are now safely tucked into their tents.  The plan is to take a rest day tomorrow  (5/22) and go for the summit on the following early morning (5/23).  Currently, the wind is blowing on the South Col and it’s too noisy for an audio dispatch.  Via our satellite communicator, here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison‘s quick text update:

Greetings from Camp 4 at the South Col.  We all made it up here, tough conditions.  Will rest tomorrow (22) and leave 22 night for the summit AM of 23.

(photo: Madison Mountaineering archives)

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Camp 3 on the Lhotse face

Our Everest team is still hanging tight at Camp III on the Lhotse Face and it looks like tomorrow might be the day to move up to the South Col to get into position for a subsequent summit attempt.  Here’s Garrett via sat phone with the details:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhtose expedition.  Today is May 20th.

We just finished a rest day up here at Camp III.  Little bit of a stormy day – a lot of wind and snow.  But everyone’s doing good.  We’re hoping tomorrow is going to be a little bit better day for our move up to the South Col – Camp IV.

So all’s well here at Camp III – 23,600 feet on the Lhotse Face.  We’re looking forward to some sunny skies tomorrow.

We’ll check in soon, thanks!

(photo: Madison Mountaineering archives)

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Camp III on the Lhotse Face with lots of fresh snow

The team has moved up to Camp III (7230m/23,720ft) on the Lhotse Face and expedition leader Garrett Madison checks in via sat phone with the day’s recap and the plan for what’s ahead:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhtose expedition.  Today is May 19th, just a litte after 7:00 PM.

Today we climbed up from Camp II to Camp III.  We are currently in Camp III.  Happy to be here on the Lhotse Face.  It’s been a stormy day – very blustery, lots of snow fall, and high wind gusts throughout the day.  We got up here to our camp and spent the first three hours digging out our tents which had been consumed and covered in fresh snow and spin drift blowing by the wind.  Once we got moved into our tents, got our stoves going and made some water, we had dinner.  Everyone is getting to bed now.

The weather changed a bit.  We were hoping to head up to Camp IV tomorrow, but with the new forecast and the inclement and blustery weather on the way tomorrow, our plan is to hunker down here in Camp III and take a rest day and wait out the weather and then move up to Camp IV the following day on the 21st of May.

Everyone’s doing well here.  We had a great day.  It was a big push coming up in the tough weather, the high winds, and the snow.  But everyone did wonderful.  I’m very proud of the team.  We’re looking foward to tomorrow up here at Camp III.  Hopefully we’ll get a few breaks in the weather and get to enjoy some nice views.

Thanks for checking in!  We’ll talk to you soon.

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Arrival at Everest Base Camp

As the “dropback” period begins, Garrett Madison checks in from Everest base camp with today’s update:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition.  Today is May 9 and our team is resting on the dropback.  Most all of our members are down in Namche resting for a few days at the Panorama Lodge.

Climbers Kenton Cool, Jon Gupta, and Becks Ferry are up in Camp III on their summit rotation.  The weather’s good right now and the winds are suposed to stay calm through May 13.  After that the winds are going to rise for a bit.

But we’re doing well, we’re resting, and we’re setting our sights on a summit push sometime in the second half of May.

All’s well here at Everest base camp and in Nepal and we’ll check in soon.  Thanks!

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

On the way to Camp III

A great second rotation is complete and the team is back at base camp.  Garrett phoned in with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest/Lhotse expedition.  Today is May 7th and we arrived in Everest base camp after a great rotation up at Camp II for three nights and touching Camp III.

We all came down today through the Western Cwm and the Khumbu Icefall and made it back to base camp this afternoon in time for lunch and some hot showers.  Tomorrow most of our team is going to head down to Namche for a rest before we come back and set our sights on the summit.

We learned today that the rope-fixing team made the summit.  So the lines are in to the top – that’s great news – and the weather looks good.  So hopefully, our climbers Kenton Cool with Ardavan and Jon Gupta with Becks will be able to make a summit attempt here in the next few days.  They’re up at Camp II right now.

We are just happy to be here!  Great weather on Mount Everest.  All is well and we’ll check in soon.

Our 2 Kristins on the Lhotse Face

Our 2 Kristins on the Lhotse Face

The Lhotse Face covered in snow as seen from Camp II

The Lhotse Face covered in snow as seen from Camp II

Our Camp I on the way to Camp II with fresh snow

Our Camp I on the way to Camp II with fresh snow

Camp III on the Lhotse Face with lots of fresh snow

Camp III on the Lhotse Face with lots of fresh snow

Climbing under the bergschrund at the base of the Lhotse Face

Climbing under the bergschrund at the base of the Lhotse Face

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

The Western Cwm

After touching Camp III, the Everest team is back in Camp II and preparing to head down tomorrow to base camp.  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, has all the details:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition.  Today is May 6th and today we climbed up to Camp III on the Lhotse Face.  We had a great day, beautiful weather here on Mount Everest.  A lot of fresh snow on the Lhotse Face made for really good climbing, good conditions.  We made it back in time for a late lunch in Camp II and just finished our dinner here tonight.

We’re gonna head down to base camp tomorrow.  Everyone’s doing okay.  All’s well here with our team on Mount Everest.  And our British climbing friends, Kenton Cool and Jon Gupta, along with their climbers, Ardavan and Rebecca, are planning to head up soon, they’re here at Camp II, and they’re going to make their summit bid, probably, in a few day’s time.  So, it was nice to see them today and wish them good luck.

We’re looking forward to getting down to base camp and resting and relaxing and having a hot shower and enjoying base camp life very soon.

All’s well here on Everest.  We’ll check in soon.  Thanks!

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map: