On May 25th at approximately 10:25 AM local time, our team of Lhotse climbers successfully reached the summit of the world’s fourth highest peak and are returning to Camp 2! We are extremely proud of the team and this tremendous accomplishment. With that, we are pleased to present the 2023 Madison MountaineeringLhotse summiteers list:
#
NAME
COUNTRY
1
Garrett Madison
United States
2
Debbie Bulten
Canada
3
Danah Al Ali
United Arab Emirates
4
Javier “Cacho” Beiza
Argentina
5
Peter Horsman
Netherlands
6
Lakpa Sherpa
Nepal
7
Aang Phurba Sherpa
Nepal
8
Dawa Tenji Sherpa
Nepal
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
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We are thrilled to announce that the 2023 Madison MountaineeringMount Everest expedition team has successfully reached the summit of the tallest mountain on Earth, and safely returned to their tents at Camp 4! The team all reached the top between 10:30 AM and 12:00 PM NPT (local time) and enjoyed a magnificent summit day complete with sunshine, little wind, great route conditions, and the route (mostly) to themselves.
Congratulations to the team and and a heartfelt thank you goes out to our rockstar Sherpa team and support staff! This incredible feat would not be possible without them.
Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with today’s dispatch as he tries to find the words for a truly special day on Mount Everest:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in from the South Col (7900m/25,919ft) for the Madison MountaineeringEverest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition team. We had a great summit today on Mount Everest! Best summit day ever that I can remember.
We started about 2:00 AM after a brief snowstorm here on the South Col, made our way up the triangular face to the balcony, up to the south summit, and up to the top of the world – summit of Mount Everest, about 9:30 – 10:00 AM. It was a glorious day! The best conditions and best route conditions that I can remember, perfect weather. It was warm, hardly any wind, hardly any other climbers on the mountain. We spent about two hours total, some of us, after summit just basking in the views, warmth and enjoying being at the top of Mount Everest. So, we had eight clients, four guides and 15 Nepal Sherpas get to the top today, including Aang Phurba Sherpa. And now, we’re all back safe in Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft)!
Our plan is to go to bed, we just had some dinner. Some of us are going to wake up in a few hours, and head off to climb Lhotse – a neighboring peak of Mount Everest, the fourth highest mountain in the world.
So, the perfect summit day! (I) can’t believe how lucky we were, it was so nice up there. So lucky in so many ways! It was a glorious day and glad we’re all back safe.
Tomorrow some of us will go to Lhotse, the rest of us down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), and the following day down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). All is well here on Everest! Check in soon.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/PHOTO-2022-05-13-00-39-26-Everests-South-Summit.jpg355766Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2023-05-24 13:43:302023-05-24 15:26:58Top of the World!
Onward and upward! Having rested up yesterday, the team got back to work today and climbed part way up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 (C3) where they are settled into their tents for the night. With good weather, they’ll continue on up the mountain tomorrow to their high camp at 7,900m / 25,919ft. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from C3:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison MountaineeringMount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. Today is May 21st, and today we climbed from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft). We left a little after 6:00 AM and had great weather today, sunny and clear all the way up to Camp 3. Then moved into our tents, had some lunch, relaxed… We had a little bit of snow in the afternoon, some clouds, but nice weather overall, hardly any wind.
The team’s doing great and we are really excited to climb up to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) tomorrow! Thank you for following along and we will check in soon.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
Following a full day yesterday, the team took a rest day today, enjoying good weather, food, and rest. The climbing has been smooth thus far and everyone is looking forward to the move up to Camp 3 tomorrow! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison MountaineeringEverest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. We are up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) and everyone is doing well!
Yesterday, we climbed up from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) through the Khumbu Icefall, across Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), and up to Camp 2 here. Everyone is great. We have really good weather, good route conditions and got into Camp 2 in the afternoon.
It’ll be a nice restful day, dinner, and good night’s sleep. So, today we’re just resting. Our Sherpa team is up now on the Lhotse Face at Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), setting up our tent platforms and getting things ready for us to move up to Camp 3 tomorrow. So the plan is move up to Camp 3 on the 21st and the weather looks good! It looks like some calm days ahead, so we are excited for the forecast and moving up the mountain to give Everest and Lhotse our best shot!
So, we’ll check in soon. All is well here on Mount Everest!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
Good news from the 2023 Madison MountaineeringMount Everest and Lhotse expedition… The team has safely and successfully made it through the Khumbu Icefall and settled into their tents for the night at Camp 2! Good weather and route conditions made for smooth climbing through the icefall and into the Western Cwm. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checked in with this brief update from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:
We all made it up to camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), nice weather and good conditions!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
After an alpine start to their day, the team is back in Everest Base Camp (EBC) due to a collapse in the icefall. Our team is all safe and back to their beds, with hopes that the route gets reopened soon, so that they can move up the mountain tomorrow. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this brief update from EBC:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team. Today is May 18th, it’s about 2:30 in the morning here at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft). We set out two or three hours ago for our first rotation to move up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), but after leaving base camp and just about getting into the icefall, we encountered some climbers coming back down who had tried to go up, and had encountered a collapse in the icefall where the route was broken about half the way up.
So, we’re going to rest today and hopefully the icefall doctors can get up there and repair that section of the route that’s broken, and then our plan is to go again tomorrow. So, one day behind our anticipated schedule, but everyone’s doing well here! Good practice, good dry run this morning, looking forward to getting some sleep and then going for it again tomorrow!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
All the training and preparation is done, and there’s only one thing left to do! The team is settled into their base camp homes for a few more hours of shut eye before they depart out of base camp, and once again, onto the mountain. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison lays out todays plan as the team gets an alpine start in just a few short hours:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison MountaineeringEverest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. Today is May 17th and tonight we are starting our summit rotation, heading up from Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). We’re departing in a few hours time, around 1:00 AM. Hopefully we’ll have a smooth climb up through the Khumbu Icefall and get up to Camp 2 mid day.
So, we’re looking forward to kicking things off here! The weather looks great, crowds have thinned, we’ve done all of our training and preparation, and we’re ready to go! So, very excited to be headed up the mountain and attempting to summit Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse.
Guide, Scott Webster and climber, Stevie Hornik. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Climber, Danah Al Ali practicing technical skills near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Climber, Eva Perglerova ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Guide, Cacho Beiza (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Climber, Rich Draves practicing ice climbing near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Climbers, Stevie Hornik and Peter Horsman practicing with oxygen equipment. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Climbers, Erwin Visser and Rich Draves practicing with oxygen equipment under the instruction of Garrett Madison. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
It’s with great excitement to share that the Madison Mountaineering team has successfully reached the summit of Nuptse and safely returned to camp! The dramatic South Face hangs high over Everest Base Camp, leaving climbers and trekkers alike in awe of around 7,000 feet of vertical relief looming over the camp below. Nuptse receives far less traffic than neighboring Everest and Lhotse. But, thanks to the hard work and bravery of our Sherpa team, the route is now open to other teams to make their summit bids in the days and weeks to come! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from Camp 2:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team – today is May 8th and we have some news to report… The Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) climb was successful today! Climbers Rich and Krisli, along with myself and Sherpa’s, Aang Phurba, Dawa, and four other folks from our team climbed together and reached the top of Nuptse, the true summit of Nuptse at about 1:00 PM today! So, it was a really tough climb, but a beautiful day up high in the mountains. Great views of Everest and Lhotse!
We’re all filtering back into high camp (6500m/21,325ft) now, nice to be off the mountain and down safe. So everyone is doing well and we are looking forward to heading down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) tomorrow and resting up for the next rotation which will be to climb Everest and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft)!
The “second wave” team with Cacho, Eva, Danah, Stevie had a great day acclimatizing, made it up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) today and (inaudible) views from the Lhotse Face. (They’re) back in camp as well. So, we’ll all be heading back down to base camp tomorrow! We’ll check in soon. Thanks!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
With our “first wave” of climbers recuperating and enjoying the comforts of Namche Bazaar, our “second wave” of climbers is currently up at Camp 2 with plans to descend to Everest Base Camp tomorrow. They’ve had a very successful second rotation as they prepare for their summit push! A few members of our team will continue higher into the Himalaya as they make their summit attempt on Nuptse! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Namche Bazaar:
Today our “second wave” of Everest and Lhotse climbers were in Camp 2! They climbed part way up the Lhotse face toward Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), and then returned back down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) at the head of the Western Cwm. Tomorrow, they plan to descend back to base camp (5364m/17,598ft), and that will wrap up their acclimatization rotation. They’ve spent two nights at Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and three nights at Camp 2 as of tomorrow.
Meanwhile, our “first wave” of Everest–Lhotse climbers are down here in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We flew down here yesterday morning from base camp. It was a beautiful helicopter flight, and since then, we’ve been enjoying hot showers, eating good food and sucking up all the extra oxygen down here, which feels great! So, we’re just resting and biding our time, recuperating for our summit push which is still a little ways off. Right now we’re waiting for high winds to ease on the upper mountain so that our Sherpa team can carry oxygen and other supplies up as high as the South Col (7900m/25,919ft), and then we’ll start looking for a summit window.
Our Nuptse climbers moved up to high camp at the foot of the route this afternoon. They’re currently resting in high camp and preparing for a summit attempt that will start late tonight. Most of the route is fixed, and if the weather permits, then our climbers and our rope-fixing team will complete the route to the summit tomorrow morning.
So, lots of things going on here in Nepal, but all is well and we will be in touch tomorrow!
Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Climbing out of Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Climber, Erwin Visser crossing a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
Our “first wave” of climbers descending through the icefall back to EBC. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
The Madison Mountaineering “second wave” of climbers is busy at Camp 2 acclimatizing, and for some, looking ahead to an ascent on Nuptse! The team has had great weather today, a restful afternoon and evening, and is in high spirits as they look forward to the days ahead. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from Camp 2:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison MountaineeringMount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition. Today is May 5th and I’m with the “second wave” with guide, Cacho Beiza and climbers, Eva, Krisli, Danah and Rich, Mark and Steve!
We had a great day starting out from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft)where we spent the last two nights, and some of our team that was just up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) finishing their rotation is coming down. They were heading to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) today for a good rest!
We climbed up to Camp 2, settled in, and had a nice afternoon and a restful evening, good dinner and just said goodbye to some of our team that were heading up to do a carry to the South Col this evening. They’re planning to climb all through the night and deposit a load of oxygen at Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft), back tomorrow.
For Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), our rope fixing team is hard at work right now! Today they were able to fix up the ice arête on the Nuptse route, under the rock band, which is good news! They’ll have another good day tomorrow.
All is well up here at Camp 2 on Mount Everest! We’ll check in soon.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
