Tag Archive for: Ama Dablam

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Lukla to Phakding

Madison Mountaineering fall Nepal expedition members starting their trek up the Khumbu Valley (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Today was another magnificent day in Nepal with our Madison Mountaineering teams leaving the lowlands and stepping foot onto the trail! The team had perfect flying conditions with views all around of beautiful country and the high peaks of the Himalaya. With their first day of trekking under their belts, the team continues further up the valley tomorrow to Namche Bazaar. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Khumbu:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering expeditions in Nepal – it’s Sunday, October 22nd. Today our teams here in Nepal flew from Ramechhap (1218m/3,999ft) to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft). We had excellent weather for our flights, not a cloud in the sky! So, we had great views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and other beautiful peaks as we flew to Lukla. We touched down, had a late breakfast, and then enjoyed a leisurely walk to Phakding (2610m/8,562ft). We had just great weather, really pleasant temperatures for the entire walk down to Phakding!

So, we’re just about ready for dinner here. It’s a peaceful evening on the banks of the Dudh Koshi River. The plan tomorrow is to wake up nice and early, and then hike to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) – the heart of the Khumbu Valley! We expect another great tomorrow, the forecast is excellent.

So the teams with us right now are our Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) trekkers, our base camp trekkers who will also climb Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) and Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft), and then our Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) climbers as well. So, all is well here and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Touching down in Lukla!(Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Touching down in Lukla! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Ama Dablam climber Anna trekking to Phakding (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Ama Dablam climber, Anna trekking to Phakding (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Trekking from Lukla to Phakding on a peaceful evening in the Khumbu Valley (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Trekking from Lukla to Phakding on a peaceful evening in the Khumbu Valley (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp trekker, Kirk spinning prayer wheels en route to Phakding (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp trekker, Kirk spinning prayer wheels en route to Phakding (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Kathmandu city tour!

The team touring Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu (photo: Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering expedition teams started today with a city tour of Kathmandu, visiting some of the cities most important and sacred sites – a nice way to stretch the legs after all of the travel the last few days. Some of the best parts of a Himalayan expedition are these cultural experiences along the way! Following their city tour, vans were loaded with duffel bags of gear and the team hit the road en route to Ramechhap airport where they will go wheels up and fly to Lukla where the trek up the Khumbu Valley begins. Guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in from Nepal, it is Saturday, October 21st. Today our Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) climbers and our Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) trekkers did their city tour around Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft). We visited Pashupatinath, the most important Hindu temple in Kathmandu and also Boudhanath Stupa, the most important Buddhist site in the city. Both of those are UNESCO World Heritage sites.

After lunch, we drove out of the Kathmandu Valley and along the banks of the Sunkoshi River to the little village of Mulkot (493m/1,617ft). Tomorrow morning we’ll wake up early and we’ll drive over to Ramechhap (1218m/3,999ft) airport, and then fly up to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) to begin our trek in the Khumbu Valley!

So, all is well here in Nepal and we’ll be in touch tomorrow.

A colorful statue of the Hindu god, Ganesh (photo: Terray Sylvester)

A colorful statue of the Hindu god, Ganesh (photo: Terray Sylvester)

Monkeys in Kathmandu (photo: Terray Sylvester)

Monkeys in Kathmandu (photo: Terray Sylvester)

Touring one of Kathmandu’s numerous UNESCO World Heritage sites (photo: Terray Sylvester)

Touring one of Kathmandu’s numerous UNESCO World Heritage sites (photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Three expeditions underway in Nepal!

Welcome dinner in Kathmandu to kickoff the expedition!

The fall, 2023 Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expeditions are underway in Kathmandu! We are filled with gratitude to be back in Nepal with new and old friends, and great adventures ahead. This season we look forward to treks to Everest Base Camp, and climbs of Ama Dablam, Lobuche East and Island Peak! With gear checks, orientation and a welcome dinner complete, city tours and an exciting flight to Lukla are all that separate the team and the start of the trek up the beautiful Khumbu Valley! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Kathmandu:

Hello! This is Terray calling in from Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) – it’s Friday, October 20th.

Today we kicked off three of our itineraries here in Nepal! We launched our Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) trek for the year – we have two teams of trekkers heading up to base camp at the foot of the highest peak on the planet. One of those teams will also climb Island Peak (6189m/20,350ft) and Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) before returning to Kathmandu. We also launched our fall Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) climb.

It was a beautiful day here in Kathmandu, really nice weather! We met for orientations and gear checks here at the Yak and Yeti hotel, and then we went out for a big team dinner out at Mezze near the former royal palace. Now we’re just getting ready to go to bed. Tomorrow we’re looking forward to our city tour here in Kathmandu, and then we will start the journey up to the Khumbu Valley!

So, all is well and we’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Rest at 17,500 feet!

Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

With the collective team all together in Everest Base Camp (EBC), the team spent the majority of today resting up, with an acclimatization hike to get their bodies moving! With the second rotation coming, the team will continue to rest and will spend some more time practicing technical skills in the neighboring Khumbu Glacier to keep their mind and skills sharp before heading further up the mountain. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from EBC:

Hello! It’s Friday, April 28th. This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition!

Today we had a nice, restful day in base camp (5364m/17,598ft)! All of our climbers are here; our team that did the first rotation up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) was taking it easy here in base camp, and our team that climbed Lobuche peak (6119m/20,075ft) recently, and just arrived in base camp yesterday was taking it easy. Although, we did go for an acclimatization hike today just up above base camp. (We) had some great views, nice opportunity to stretch the legs, get some oxygen in the body. We’re just enjoying base camp!

We’re going to start doing a little more technical review over the next few days and start gearing up for our next rotation up to Camps 1 and 2, and touching Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft)!

It’s great weather at the moment, although there is a little snow in the forecast the next few days. But, the team’s doing well and we’re happy to be here! We’re looking forward to more good days ahead here on Mount Everest.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Back in base camp!

Everest Express climber, Danah Ali, acclimatizing above Pheriche! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The team all gathered together in base camp today after the completion of their first acclimatization rotations! With the first rotation under their belts, the team will enjoy some rest and relaxation the next few days before beginning preparation for their second rotation on the mountain. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this dispatch from Pheriche:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 27th.

Today our first wave of Everest climbers took a rest day in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) after returning down from Camp 2 after their first acclimatization rotation on the mountain.

Our second wave of climbers hiked back to base camp after successfully summiting Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) yesterday morning.

Down here in Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft), I went for a hike with our express climber, who arrived yesterday via helicopter. We went for a great hike above Dingboche (4410m/14,470ft) with fantastic views of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) and a nice sunny morning!

So, all continues to go well here in Nepal and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Everest Express climber, Danah Ali, during today's acclimatization hike. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Everest Express climber, Danah Ali, during today’s acclimatization hike. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Prayer Flag Point

The team at Prayer Flag Point on today's acclimatization hike! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The team continued their acclimatization efforts today, touching over 16,000 feet at Prayer Flag Point above Pheriche! After taking in more spectacular views, everyone was excited to descend, knowing the treat that lied ahead – pastries and coffee at the famous Dingboche Bakery! The treats fueled the teams bodies to get them back to Pheriche, where they enjoyed dinner and alpenglow on the surrounding peaks, towering above the village. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 10th.

Today we hiked above Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft) up to prayer flag point, at a little over 16,000 feet, above 5,000 meters. It was a beautiful day! The clear weather has continued, so we had great views of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) and Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) in the distance, and just a little corner of Cho Oyu (8188m/26,864ft). Then we came back down and relaxed in the bakery at Dingboche (4410m/14,470ft) before walking back to Pheriche.

It’s a beautiful evening right now! We’re watching alpenglow on the peaks around Pheriche. Tomorrow, we’re looking forward to moving up to Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft).

We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Alpenglow on Ama Dablam. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Alpenglow on Ama Dablam. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Unclimbed Peak Expedition Wrap Up!

Summit photo after a historic first ascent!

The Madison Mountaineering unclimbed peak expedition has come to its conclusion with our team departing back to their homes, excitedly knowing that their attempt at this historic first ascent proved to be successful! Congratulations to the entire team, and a big thanks to our amazing sherpa team – this effort would not be possible without them. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this recap of making the first ascent of this previously unclimbed peak:

Our Unclimbed peak expedition was a huge success! Going into one of these unknown areas to climb a peak never before attempted by anyone always raises the level of uncertainty we face. It takes a ‘can do’ attitude and the necessary experience to arrive, work through the process in figuring out the route, etc.

There is always some luck involved, we were very fortunate to have decent weather, and a crack Sherpa team that was integral to our success.

Having climbed Ama Dablam just before allowed us to acclimatize and ready ourselves for this project. We had a certain amount of ‘mountain fitness’ which was key.

Utilizing a helicopter allowed us to go directly from Ama Dablam base camp to the base of the peak. From there we established one high camp, although we had to wait a couple of days while it snowed heavily.

Once the skies cleared, we got underway and made good progress, then started our summit day early on the 14th of November leaving base camp at 2:30 AM. About 12 hours later we stood on the summit. It was a glorious day and the achievement was a sweet one, especially given the camaraderie and spirit of teamwork that made it all possible thanks to our amazing Sherpa team.

We look forward to another ‘Unclimbed Peak’ expedition next year!

In exploration,

Garrett Madison

Our 'first ascent' line up the peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Our ‘first ascent’ line up the peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

The peak rising out of the clouds. Photo: Ted Hesser

The peak rising out of the clouds. Photo: Ted Hesser

The team at the summit of the previously unclimbed peak! Photo: Ted Hesser

The team at the summit of the previously unclimbed peak! Photo: Ted Hesser

Celebrating back in Kathmandu!

Celebrating back in Kathmandu!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ama Dablam Expedition Conclusion

Departing base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our 2022 Ama Dablam expedition has come to its conclusion! 17 total members of the Madison Mountaineering team reached the summit of Ama Dablam, and are making their journeys home. Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, and a few of our climbers and sherpa team will continue their journey towards an unclimbed peak in the Himalaya, heading into the unknown for a chance at a first ascent! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with one final dispatch from the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – it’s  Friday, November 11th.

Our expedition has wrapped up! Our clients have departed from Ama Dablam base camp (4600m/15,100ft) – some of them decided to helicopter directly from base camp to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft). So, they arrived here in the capitol of Nepal a couple of days ago. Two of our clients decided to enjoy a pleasant hike down the Khumbu Valley. Those guests flew from Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) via fixed wing to Kathmandu yesterday.

So, we had one last celebratory dinner here in Kathmandu last night and people are starting to take their flights home.

All in all, we had a very successful expedition! 17 total members of our team reached the summit of Ama Dablam – that was eight of our climbers, plus two guides and seven members of our sherpa team. We had absolutely excellent weather and route conditions for that climb!

So from here, Garrett and two of our climbers from Ama Dablam as well as members of our sherpa team are turning their attention to an unclimbed peak (~6000m/20,000ft) here in the Nepal, Himalaya. If you’d like to stay up to date on how that climb is progressing, please just keep an eye on the dispatches here on the website! We’ll be in touch.

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Madison Mountaineering 2022 Ama Dablam Summiteers List

The 2022 Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of Ama Dablam! Photo: Terray Sylvester

The sun has set on a beautiful 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition! Our team experienced lots of successes and summits over the course of the last few weeks in the Himalaya. Most importantly, everyone is off the mountain safely and in Kathmandu, or the comforts of their own home.

A few climbers are now heading off to make an attempt on an unclimbed ~6000m/20,000ft peak nearby for a chance to etch their names into the mountaineering history books!

We are pleased to announce the following Madison Mountaineering team members successfully obtained the summit of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) on November 5th, 2022 at approximately 9:00 AM NPT (local time):

# Name
1 Garrett Madison
2 Terray Sylvester
3 Aang Phurba Sherpa
4 Alix Sanche Mayer
5 Stephane Mayer
6 Jocelyn Cayer
7 Rich Draves
8 Serge Larouche
9 Krisli Melesk
10 Chhiring Bhote
11 Dawa Sherpa
12 Chettan Dorje Sherpa
13 Jangbu Sherpa
14 Ming Dorchi Sherpa
15 Shere Thapa Magar
Tenzi Sherpa at Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Tenzi Sherpa at Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison climbing between camps 1 and 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison climbing between camps 1 and 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, in the Gray Couloir above Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, in the Gray Couloir above Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Garrett Madison and Aang Phurba Sherpa on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Garrett Madison and Aang Phurba Sherpa on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, on the Mushroom Ridge below Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, on the Mushroom Ridge below Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Alix, on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Alix, on the summit! Photo: Terray

Our climbers, Alix, Jocelyn and Alex taking off from base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climbers, Alix, Jocelyn and Alex taking off from base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Jocelyn, climbing toward the summit above Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Jocelyn, climbing toward the summit above Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Safely Returning to Base Camp!

Our climber, Krisli, acclimatizing above base camp with Ama Dablam in the background. Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam climbers who made the summit on November 5th have safely descended to base camp and are waiting to greet their fellow teammates who plan to arrive tomorrow. The summit team who had planned to make their summit push earlier in the day, were turned around due to high winds on the upper mountain – unusual for the smooth conditions they’ve had so far on this expedition. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this brief update:

Our main team is down in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) and all good. Our 3 climbers who attempted the summit (6812m/22,349ft) today with Hannah turned back due to high winds. They are in camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) now and will descend to base camp tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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