Tag Archive for: Ama Dablam

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives.

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team is on the move! Weather improved throughout the day as the team climbed higher up the mountain before crawling into their tents for the night. The terrain is inspiring, both the route ahead of them and other surrounding peaks – no shortage of great views here! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu:

Hello from Makalu Camp 1! Today we left base camp after breakfast and enjoyed a peaceful climb here, at first in light snowfall, and then under clearing skies. Now we’re settled into our tents at 6,400m and the skies have cleared. We have great views of the route above us, plus Baruntse (7162m/23,497ft), Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) and many other peaks. We’re looking forward to an active rest day tomorrow before we move to Camp 2. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Celebrating arrival in base camp with a welcome cake!

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team has reached their base camp! The flight to get there was nothing short of spectacular, with views of the valleys below and Himalayan peaks around every corner. Now settled into their camp, the team will begin to turn their sights towards the summit soon! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition – today is April 27th.

This morning we had breakfast early and then hustled over to the helipad in Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft) for our flights to Makalu Base Camp, actually advanced base camp, but these days virtually every team treats this as the main base camp for the mountain. It’s here at about 18,600 feet or 5,600 meters.

Our flights this morning were spectacular! We headed up the valley of the Imja Khola River past Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) and then past the shoulder of Baruntse (7162m/23,497ft) and down into the Makalu Barun Valley. We past Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) – fantastic views, fantastic views of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft), and then all of the spectacular glaciated peaks nearby.

We landed in base camp at about 8:00 AM. Since then, we’ve been settling in. We just had a nice dinner of Dal Bhat with some great curried chicken and enjoyed a welcome cake for dessert! Now we’re settling into watch our evening movie, Top Gun: Maverick.

Tomorrow, we plan to hold our pre-climb Puja to ask the mountain for safe passage. So, all is well here at Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Fresh snow in Makalu Base Camp

Fresh snow in Makalu Base Camp

The team at breakfast in Pangboche

The team at breakfast in Pangboche


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team at about 5,000m on Nangkartshang above Pheriche Village today (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams had a great day building their acclimatization above the village of Pheriche! After a good nights rest after the trek from Deboche to Pheriche, the team fueled up with a good breakfast and took to the trail that climbs high above the villages below. Climbing through some clouds, we ascended higher and higher up Nangkartshang Peak (5083m/16,676ft) with views of Ama Dablam and other surrounding Himalayan giants. After coming together again at the high point for the day, we took in the views, hydrated, snacked, and enjoyed each others company before descending back down to the tea house below. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Pheriche:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team.

Today’s April 19 and we hiked up from the village of Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft) on Nangkartshang Peak (5083m/16,676ft) today. We had a gear acclimatization hike and got up to about 16,700 feet or so. Everyone did awesome and we had some nice views up there! We’re back down at the lodge here in Pheriche ready for dinner.

So, wonderful day and we’re going to head up to Lobuche village (4940m/16,210ft) tomorrow.

All is well here! We’ll check in soon.

Guide Cacho Beiza with his wife, Andrea Berlanga, and excellent views of Ama Dablam (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide Cacho Beiza with his wife, Andrea Berlanga, and excellent views of Ama Dablam (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Garrett Madison with climbers Mike and Caroline in front of Thamserku peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Garrett Madison with climbers, Mike and Caroline in front of Thamserku peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Conan Bliss with climber, Aga (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Conan Bliss with climber, Aga (photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team on the summit of Ama Dablam with Everest and Lhotse in the background! From left: Guide Terray Sylvester, our climber, Joe, and Sirdar and Guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Safely back in base camp, the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team spent the day re-introducing themselves to the luxuries of life off of the mountain! After a great day successfully reaching the summit on the day prior, the team relaxed, celebrated, and began getting prepared to make their way back down the valley. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this celebratory dispatch from Ama Dablam base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the autumn 2024 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – today is November 8th. Today, we had a rest day here in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) after our successful summit push. Yesterday, we topped out on Ama Dablam at about 7:30 AM in the morning, and then we descended all the way back down to base camp and had a nice dinner here and got a good nights sleep.

So, we spent today taking showers and getting packed and prepared for our trek back down the valley to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft). Our plan is to leave for Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) tomorrow morning and then finish off the trek the following day.

All in all, we had a fantastic summit push! Two days ago, or three days ago on November 5th, we moved up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft). The following day, we moved to Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft), rested most of the day, and then that evening at about 11:00 PM we started our summit climb and topped out at about 7:30 AM in the morning! The climbing conditions were perfect – zero wind and perfectly clear skies, which meant we had great views of the peaks around us and before the sun came up, excellent views of a brilliant, starry sky over the Himalayas!

So, all is well here in base camp and we’ll be in touch from Namche Bazaar tomorrow!

Our climber, Joe, stepping onto the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Joe, stepping onto the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Approaching Camp 2. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Approaching Camp 2. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Celebratory cake back in base camp the evening after our team summited!

Celebratory cake back in base camp the evening after our team summited!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

It comes with great excitement to share that at 7:36 AM local time on November 7, the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team successfully reached the summit! The team left their tents at Camp 2 and climbed through the night, navigating technical terrain under starry skies. In the morning hours, the sun began to come up revealing excellent views of many surrounding peaks and the route below. It was near perfect weather and route conditions for our summit day! After taking the final few steps onto the summit, the team shared hugs and high-fives in celebration before reporting the good news to our other teams in the Khumbu region. The team is now safely back in base camp and will begin to pack their bags and start their departure from the Himalaya soon! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Ama Dablam:

Hello from base camp! This morning we summited Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) from Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) in excellent weather. We left Camp 2 at about 11 p.m. and stepped onto the summit not long after sunrise in perfectly clear skies without a breath of wind. After soaking up the views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Makalu (8463m/27,766ft), Kanchenjunga (8586m/28,169ft) and other peaks, we descended all the way here to base camp (4600m/15,100ft). We just wrapped up dinner and we’re looking forward to some well-earned sleep!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team is in position to make a push for the summit from Camp 2! While climbing up from Camp 1, the team had great weather and moved smoothly between the two camps along the southwest ridge. In just a short time, the team will get an alpine start and make their push for the summit! Stay tuned for more updates. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this brief dispatch from Ama Dablam before going for the summit:

Hello from Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft)! We just finished a fun and scenic climb here from Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft). We were the first team on the route today. So we were able to move at our own pace and enjoy the varied terrain and excellent views. Now we’ve settled into camp. We’re planning to get a good rest and go for the summit (6812m/22,349ft) late tonight.

We’ll be in touch!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team has started their summit rotation! After several days of rest and relaxation, we’ve shouldered our packs and left the comforts of our base camp. With good weather ahead, we plan to continue climbing up the mountain, with hopes of standing on the summit in just a few days time! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Ama Dablam:

Hello from Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft)! This morning we moved here from base camp (4600m/15,100ft) through a dusting of fresh snow. Now we’re settled in our tents and waiting for our dinners to cook.

The team is doing well. We’re looking forward to a pleasant night here and a scenic climb to Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) tomorrow. We’ll be in touch!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Views of Camp 1. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team is safely back in base camp after completing the first rotation on the mountain! Weather has continued to be excellent so far, offering the team beautiful views and climbing conditions as they climbed their way up the mountain. With some rest and recovery ahead, we’ll begin to prepare for the summit rotation starting soon! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Ama Dablam:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the autumn 2024 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – today is November 1st.

Over the last few days, we completed our acclimatization rotation. The team spent two nights at Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) and we made a foray up toward Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft), and now the whole team is back down in base camp (4600m/15,100ft). We’re resting now and we’ll be preparing for our summit push which is coming soon!

All in all, it was a great time up on the mountain, really beautiful weather! The good days have just continued, clear skies and great views. And, really fun scrambling on the way up to Camp 1 and up to Camp 2.

So, all is well here in Nepal and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Our climbers, Joe and Thierry, in Camp 1. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers, Joe and Thierry, in Camp 1. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers Kat, Joe, and Thierry approaching Camp 1! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers Kat, Joe, and Thierry approaching Camp 1! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

All smiles back in base camp! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

All smiles back in base camp! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team after their puja in base camp, with Ama Dablam in the background!

The Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team had a busy day in base camp as they prepare for their first rotation! After awaking to sunny skies, the team conducted their pre-climb puja ceremony to ask the mountain for safe passage before heading up. Following the ceremony, the team went out into the field for technical training to review and simulate the route that lies ahead. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Ama Dablam:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the fall 2024 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – today is October 29th.

Today, we had a really nice day actually, a nice busy day! This morning was our pre-climb Puja. So, that’s our ceremony that we do before every climb to ask the mountain for safe passage before we start moving up above base camp (4600m/15,100ft). Then we had a nice lunch of salmon steaks, and sandwiches, and a good beef and tomato soup! And then, after lunch we headed over to the training location not far from base camp and we practiced our technical skills: ascending fixed lines in steep terrain, rappelling, transitions, all of the above. Everyone did really well with that! Now, we’re just walking back to base camp. It’s a little misty and we’re looking forward to moving up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) tomorrow to start our rotation.

Also tonight, we will have another movie night. So far we’ve watched Top Gun: Maverick, and then last night we started The Godfather, but that’s a really long movie, so we made it about halfway through. We’ll probably finish it off tonight! And that’s about it.

So, all is well here in Nepal and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Our climber, Tom, practicing technical skills with sirdar and guide Aang Phurba Sherpa! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Tom, practicing technical skills with sirdar and guide Aang Phurba Sherpa! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Joe, one of our Ama Dablam climbers practicing technical skills! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Joe, one of our Ama Dablam climbers practicing technical skills! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Evening light on Ama Dablam above our base camp.

The Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team spent the day acclimatizing as they continue to prepare for their climb! More beautiful views fueled the team as they climbed up towards Camp 1. The team couldn’t ask for better weather on the expedition so far and with more good weather tomorrow, the team will conduct their Puja ceremony along with technical skills training near their base camp. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the fall, 2024 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – today is October 28.

Today, we woke up to another beautiful day here – no wind, nice sunshine. So, we went for a hike up to Yak Camp, which is about a little over halfway, two-thirds of the way up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft). It was a really nice hike, great views all around the valley, Thamserku (6608m/21,680ft), Kangtega (6782m/22,251ft), up toward Cho Oyu (8188m/26,864ft), Cholatse (6440m/21,130 ft), Taboche (6495m/21,309ft) – all the beautiful peaks around here! Then, we came down for a nice lunch and we’ve been relaxing this evening.

Tomorrow, we are looking forward to our Puja, our pre-climb ceremony to ask the mountains for safe passage! Then, we’ll be doing some technical training later in the day.

So, all is well here and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Fresh apple pie for dessert in base camp this evening!

Fresh apple pie for dessert in base camp this evening!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram: